'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test

[vetteguy22]

Even baby steps mean the project is still moving forward. Good work.

[thisismatt]

521, but same thing for the jumpers at the old regulator...cut the regulator off.

 

 

 

[rosso]

On 6/2/2019 at 6:38 AM, vetteguy22 said:

Even baby steps mean the project is still moving forward. Good work.

 

Thanks, and both horns work together!  So I have hopes that the rest of the wiring is not ruined and all I have to do is sort the right wires out..

[rosso]

Slow but sure progress - baby steps as I have time to remove rust.

 

Where I started with second horn: B***ch to get the screws out and the bracket was toast as expected. Got a second hand horn from Dave C.

 

Finished installed:

 

Strut towers:

 

 

Just did the round tops of these, and did a quick polish of the attaching brace on second photo.

 

Cleaned up and polished the front hood latch and de-rusted the surrounding hole. This was the worst match for paint color and having an edge show. Not sure why, maybe I was not paying attention to my sequence or it was dark when I did it.

 

Test fitted the used wheels I got at Powerland:

 

These wheels are 6x14 ET10 (280ZX 6-spoke?) and fit well. The used tires on the wheels are 205/50-14 Nitto racing tires that actually fit easily. No spacers or anything and the car has 2" lowering blocks. I will be buying 195/60-14 tires which are a bit taller and not as wide so should fit great and have correct speedometer readings.

 

That's all for now, I am still trying to get done house tasks and freeing up two weeks that I can get the motor in.

 

Cheers to all the other project Dattto posters for keeping me inspired to continue and try to keep up.  🙂

 

[vetteguy22]

Nice to see your update. Glad you’re still moving forward.

im doing body and paint on my wife’s car now. Hope to finish paint in the next couple of weeks.

[rosso]

On 7/27/2019 at 8:46 PM, vetteguy22 said:

Nice to see your update. Glad you’re still moving forward.

im doing body and paint on my wife’s car now. Hope to finish paint in the next couple of weeks.

 

I sort of envy you guys that do paint and body work - I never liked it, understood how to do it or was any good at it. I hardly even want to use rattle cans.

 

I look forward to seeing your new paint.

[rosso]

Getting parts together and these arrived today:

 

 

195/60-14 for the 6x14 ZX rims I have.

 

Ohtsu FP7000 tires, apparently made by Falken and owned by Sumitomo. Giving them a try since they are about $30 cheaper per tire than the General Altimax that I would prefer.  H speed rated and 480 A A. These are for my daily driver wagon on the Olympic Peninsula (2+ hours from Seattle).

 

I now have some very used Nitto NT-01 tires in 205/50-14 size to give to anyone who wants to come pick them up. You might be able to get an autocross day out of them but they are worn.

 

 

Or just use them to test fit on a car or if  you need tires to make a roller out of your project. I have these listed in the classifieds.

[rosso]

Does anyone have a stock coil bracket they want to donate for a couple bucks? My car did not have one when I got it.

 

I will be installing an MSD ignition with a Blaster high vibration coil and want to mount it in the stock location - so I don't have two holes to worry about.   ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

UPDATE: just grabbed one on amazon for $1.13 (+$3 shipping)   - yellow zinc screws needed for mounting now.

 

Got the old worn racing tires off and new all seasons mounted.

 

 

Front suspension is still off waiting to slide the VG33 in from below.

Edited September 6, 2019 by rosso

[rosso]

Wiring for new oil pressure gauge and existing idiot light in tach.

 

I want to get all the sending units in place while the engine is on the stand. Here's the VG33 sender that screws into the oil filter housing at the front left of the motor. The metal part looks the same as what I remember being on the side of the L-series block.  Are all these fittings 1/8" NPT?

 

 

I want to use a "T" adapter of some sort and screw an L series sending and use the 510 original black/yellow wire to the dash light. Then off the other side of the T the new sending unit from an after market oil pressure gauge.

 

That way I still have the red warning light in the dash as well as the gauge for checking I have pressure before firing the motor for the first time.

 

Am I missing anything or is it just that easy and choosing the electrical oil pressure gauge I like the most?

 

I am leaning towards an Autometer gauge:  https://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105/2634/10002/-1

This will temporarily mount in the radio slot because no radio.

 

 

[vetteguy22]

I don’t see why that wouldn’t work as long as the gauge is comparable with the sender unit.

Glad to see you’re still making progress.

Rob

[rosso]

On 9/12/2019 at 10:00 PM, vetteguy22 said:

I don’t see why that wouldn’t work as long as the gauge is comparable with the sender unit.

Glad to see you’re still making progress.

Rob

Thanks Rob, sounds cool,

Using the L series sender from the 510 should screw into the VG33 and work the dash light without a problem.

 

Then the Autometer gauge will have its own compatible sender included with it so should work fine with new wiring separate from anything else.

M

 

UPDATE: Here's the "T" adapter I ordered BSPT male/BSPT female/NPT female

Edited September 16, 2019 by rosso
added photo

[rosso]

Working on the oil pressure gauges - here is the center section of my dash this morning:

 

 

No radio and a bit cut up - so scrubbed it off, grabbed a piece of plastic from the car stereo store for $2 and made the oil pressure gauge block off plate. Not planning to have a radio for a while so did the easiest and cheapest way to get a gauge in.  Here's what I ended up with:

 

 

Still needs a bit more cleaning and renewing the black but much better and hopefully I can see oil pressure when I crank the VG33.

[WAGON JON]

Great build! Keep up the good work!

[rosso]

I'm back to work on the project this week - have the VG33 on the engine stand and want to turn it over by hand and lube the cylinders before sticking it in the car.

 

Will WD40 work fine to spray into each cylinder then crank it by hand using the crank pulley nut?

 

Also want to confirm that the VG33 runs counter clockwise?

 

Once the motor is in I will need to crank it to TDC to put the distributor in so, want to lube it while it is out and easy.

 

[datzenmike]

WD-40 is mostly an aromatic hydrocarbon solvent with some mineral oil mixed in. It's thin and penetrating more than a lubricant. I wouldn't even bother lubing the cylinders but I would crank it over with the starter to pre-lube the oil system before connecting the spark and trying to start it. When I crank my L20B and stop, the oil light is out but comes on in 3-4 seconds so this means the pressure is above the sender switch pressure of about 8 PSI. I've taken rod and main caps off engines that have sat for years and they are always wet with oil. If it hasn't started for a long time you could fill the oil pan by taking the valve covers off and pouring the oil over both cams.

[rosso]

I do need to turn it over by hand to install the distributor so figured some lube in the cylinders would be a good idea. Also with all the plugs out so turning by hand is easier.

 

WD40 is my last choice, but I have not come up with any other aerosol to spray in the cylinders. It's been sitting dry for 9 months at least.

 

Yep, good suggestion, after I get the motor in the car I will take the valve covers off and pour oil over everything on top when I fill with oil. I plan to fill the oil filter also then crank it over with no spark or fuel until I get pressure on the aftermarket oil gauge. Hopefully the oil light will also go out. ☺️.

[Lockleaf]

There is nothing wrong with using wd40 in the cylinders.  The worst thing it will do is cause some smoke.  They do make special lubricants for winterizing engines that are specific to putting in cylinder bores.  You could find that if it really matters to you.

[MikeRL411]

On ‎11‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 8:06 AM, datzenmike said:

WD-40 is mostly an aromatic hydrocarbon solvent with some mineral oil mixed in. It's thin and penetrating more than a lubricant. I wouldn't even bother lubing the cylinders but I would crank it over with the starter to pre-lube the oil system before connecting the spark and trying to start it. When I crank my L20B and stop, the oil light is out but comes on in 3-4 seconds so this means the pressure is above the sender switch pressure of about 8 PSI. I've taken rod and main caps off engines that have sat for years and they are always wet with oil. If it hasn't started for a long time you could fill the oil pan by taking the valve covers off and pouring the oil over both cams.

 

And fish oil [at least in the original formulation].

[thisismatt]

ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil...

[rosso]

 

Cleaned up the VG33 exhaust manifolds moving towards getting the engine in the car soon.

 

Wire brushed them a bit and then sprayed on dry graphite lube - supposedly the coating is resistant to heat so I am giving it a try. Very easy to do, spray on like paint from a rattle can and it dries really quickly and the graphite is bonded to the iron.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81vdlNSmZ8L._SL1500_.jpg

 

You can buff it with a soft cloth as the left one above, or leave it like the right one. Not sure which one I like better - both look so much better than the rusty way they were. 🙂

 

I also pulled all the spark plugs (which looked good) and sprayed fogging oil in each cylinder then turned the motor over by the crank bolt with a 27mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar. It turned right away and was very smooth all the way around for about 15 revolutions. Put the plugs back in and feel better about the motor being in good shape after sitting dry for about a year.

Edited November 25, 2019 by rosso

[vetteguy22]

What vehicle did your motor come out of? Mine was from an Exterra and I’m pretty sure they did not work in my Datsun. No luck with headers?

Rob

[rosso]

The manifolds are from Dave Carroll who said they are from the one model that actually fits the 510 swap. He pulled them from his racks and racks of used parts just on recollection that they were the ones that fit. I will ask him what model he knows works (when I hear from him next).

 

There is no way to know what vehicle the engine came from out of Japan unfortunately.

 

Dave is not making any headers at the moment and I wanted to get something I could use in the meantime.

 

[vetteguy22]

Ok thanks. Glad your moving forward.

[rosso]

On 11/25/2019 at 6:44 AM, vetteguy22 said:

What vehicle did your motor come out of? Mine was from an Exterra and I’m pretty sure they did not work in my Datsun. No luck with headers?

Rob

The exhaust manifolds that are supposed to work are from the 200SX  SE-V6  (LHD).

[rosso]

Working out some wiring and I want to make sure I have the right information.

 

My 510 wagon is a 1972 and has an electric choke relay.

I am swapping in a VG33 with a carb. Electric choke takes one 12v wire that I will run new.

I am using an internal resistor alternator.

 

So I am going to remove the elec choke relay completely.

I am removing the relay for the 2nd set of points from the L16 completely

I am removing the voltage regulator and jumpering the two wires as described previously.

 

The connectors will be left in place and labeled then zip tied back to the harness.

 

Thanks to all for the advice, electrical gurus - do I have everything correct?