'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test

[vetteguy22]

Definitely like the clean look.

[rosso]

Definitely have to start making decisions on stuff like this if I am going to get this done, I was going to leave the bumperettes on because I figured the bumper would be all rested and cruddy looking if I took them off. But to my surprise, the chrome is actually better - so it's the clean look! 

 

Also decided to order an MSD 6AL ignition and spend the money to simplify the wiring and eliminate the ballast resistor and trying to figure out all that wiring.

 

Any BTDT forum members with advice on how to remove all the old wiring?

 

and speaking of wiring, I have power to all electrics all the time even with the ignition switch in the off position. (horn, lights, brake lights etc). I can live with it like that for a  while but would like to figure out how to fix it proper.

 

Cheers to all, stay safe, stay home and listen to the medical people, not the politicians before you go back to work or back to life as usual.

Edited April 1, 2020 by rosso

[vetteguy22]

The horn, lights and brake lights should be hot at all times. Any other items hot at all times?

[rosso]

Even with the ignition switch in the "OFF" position?

 

I guess I don't understand the wiring diagram little switch boxes and dots and lines to indicate what is working.

 

 

[thisismatt]

Along the top of the boxes, when the switch is in that position, the dots with lines joining them indicate the connections being made.

[vetteguy22]

Yes even with the ignition off and key removed, those items should always be hot.

[rosso]

5 hours ago, thisismatt said:

Along the top of the boxes, when the switch is in that position, the dots with lines joining them indicate the connections being made.

Thanks Matt - this makes more sense - now I can look at the wiring diagram again. I could not really figure out what the dots meant it was just looking crazy, Now I see it is the lines between the dots that are important. 👍

[rosso]

Off with the old...

 

On with the new(er).

 

 

Anyone have some good ideas about sealing up the transmission tunnel?

 

 

I do not have a welder.

 

How much water actually gets up that high?

[thisismatt]

More fumes than anything

 

[vetteguy22]

Also might want to open up that area around the shifter a bit more so it doesn’t vibrate on the body and make annoying noises going down the road. 
you could always bend up a piece of sheet metal to cover that area and use some silicone and screw it in place. I guess you could even use a sheet of rubber to create a boot to cover it.

 

[rosso]

After installing the VG33 and 5-speed with new 300ZX clutch slave cylinder, it turns out that the clutch master cylinder leaks.  😞

 

Lots of posters here mention using a slave cylinder that is self adjusting. So far I have found no documentation, or exploded diagram, that such a slave cylinder exists. The self adjusting part is apparently in the master cylinder.

 

So replacing the stock '72 510 master cylinder will not work and I need to figure out what master cylinder to order.

 

Can anyone point me to a correct replacement clutch master cylinder? Website, part number, model and year?

 

Thanks to all who have helped, this forum has been great. Stay safe, stay home.

[rosso]

.. and the brake master cylinder leaks too...

 

Same question as my previous post, what year and model replacement (or part number) is best.

 

I have 280ZX struts, calipers, and rotors with stock 510 drum brakes in the rear.  I have swapped in a VG33 and do not plan to use a brake booster unless the car just will not stop.

 

I know there has been lots of posts on here about 3/4" or 7/8" and pedal feel vs pressure.

 

Here is one sold by Z Car Depot for Z cars - bleed screws are on opposite side from stock 510 (but they could be reversible)

https://zcardepot.com/collections/master-cylinder/products/brake-master-cylinder-7-8-240z-260z-280z-70-78#

What else has anyone used - good BTDT recommendations appreciated. Anyone see problems with the above?

Thanks all again.

Edited April 1, 2020 by rosso

[thisismatt]

Rebuild the one you have?

[thisismatt]

A good alternative is the wilwood 1" master.  Almost a bolt in.  

 

https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-8794

 

[slowlearner]

^ That's good to know! Course I'd have to mortgage a kidney to buy it and then grind off the aftermarket lettering so I didn't get defected for using it. #nannystate

[thisismatt]

2 hours ago, slowlearner said:

^ That's good to know! Course I'd have to mortgage a kidney to buy it and then grind off the aftermarket lettering so I didn't get defected for using it. #nannystate

 

I know the current exchange rate is poor for you guys, but for a brand new master it's a pretty decent price

[rosso]

It's not just the exchange rate (1.60Aud to 1.00US) which makes it $235 but Aussies and Kiwis get raked over the coals for shipping and just being charged more. This would be over $300 and then there is tax. Currently in NZ it is 15% so that is another $45. All up you are probably looking a three-fitty.

 

I know, I lived in New Zealand for almost 10 years and it is horrible how ripped off they are.

 

But it is a beautiful country and nice place to live. Loved it there.

[thisismatt]

58 minutes ago, rosso said:

It's not just the exchange rate (1.60Aud to 1.00US) which makes it $235 but Aussies and Kiwis get raked over the coals for shipping and just being charged more. This would be over $300 and then there is tax. Currently in NZ it is 15% so that is another $45. All up you are probably looking a three-fitty.

 

I know, I lived in New Zealand for almost 10 years and it is horrible how ripped off they are.

 

But it is a beautiful country and nice place to live. Loved it there.

 

Plus mount doom 😆

[slowlearner]

6 hours ago, thisismatt said:

 

I know the current exchange rate is poor for you guys, but for a brand new master it's a pretty decent price

 

Before, Corona sprinkled it's magic fairy dust on the world economy, the best way to figure out a local price for a US part was double the price. Even just last years ago I ordered a Microsquirt ECU from Mario at the Dubshop (who I can't recommend highly enough btw).

Exchange rate

$679.63 AUD = $439.90 USD

1 AUD = 0.6473 USD

 

Last week I downloaded Seawolf's new album "Through a dark wood" (Great album too). So no shipping, but here was the cost...

 

Exchange rate

$14.56 AUD = $8.00 USD

1 AUD = 0.5494 USD

 

So, while I like living downunder, there are some disadvantages. That's why we tend to use the Jap car parts bin rather than order things like Wilwood unless we really have to. Also, because all the Wilwood stuff isn't OEM, it can be very hard to get it approved locally. Ie. a whole bunch of AC Cobra replica owners are fighting the state government in court. They've been refused certification even though they meet all the Australian Design Rules and had the cars inspected and approved by relevant signatories.

 

Edited April 2, 2020 by slowlearner

[rosso]

Everybody, Stand Back - I am doing body work...

 

You know how dangerous I can be with a rattle can.

 

In process, derusting and treating :

 

Primed and a couple of coats of color with rattle cans. Still need some sanding and more paint but coming along.

 

 

a-a-a-a-h, much better. Not perfect but better and I will be going past everyone so fast no one will notice... <smile>

Edited April 6, 2020 by rosso

[vetteguy22]

That’s looking pretty good.

[rosso]

Thanks, I don't think I should quit my day job though.

[banzai510(hainz)]

As for the wiring I assume it’s goin to stay in the car.yes the original wiring

the new motor wiring your going to use the original to work the new wiring 

why would you pull out the original wiring out that already works.lights horn gauges ect....

the hot start wire ect you can use as a signal or what ever you need it 

most people get Jeff’s CanAm relay box to hook up the engine management from the original wiring

 

most Japanese cars have the lights ect hooked up to the positive side and then they switch the ground. The ignition is key switches for a reason. But even that the points is a switching ground.

[rosso]

Short answer is yes, as you suggest banzai, I am retaining the original wiring as much as possible.

 

I am not pulling out original wiring that works, all the lights, horn, etc are still original wiring. What I am removing are the things that are no longer on the car, like the second set of points relay, the automatic choke relay, external voltage regulator and so on. Wherever there is a connector that went to these items, I am leaving it and marking it and will eventually re-wrap the finished wiring to tidy it up.

 

I am trying to remove any wire that went to any of these things that currently goes to nowhere or that is not needed, for example the ballast resistor wiring (I am using an MSD 6AL ignition box). Most of my questions have been to identify what wires I can safely remove that are no longer needed and have no connections at both ends. Understanding the wiring diagram is a bit confusing for me and I do not want to take a wire out that will create a problem I don't have. Everything so far works remarkably well.

 

I have installed an Autometer oil pressure gauge and all that wiring is new and separate. I have used an adapter to also retain the original dash oil warning light through the original wiring, even going to the trouble of making a color correct extension wire to reach the sending unit on the other side of the VG33.

 

 

I will be running a carb so no need for any of the engine management wiring or new relay box.

 

 

[rosso]

Fan shroud or not with 12" electric fan?

 

Test fit the original fan shroud with the new radiator and V6. Seems to fit okay.

 

 

What has everyone been using/suggesting. What sort of CFM has everyone decided is need for the VG33? Do I even need the shroud and can I then use a 14" fan to move more air?

 

I am just looking ahead as I wait on some parts to arrive.