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'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test


rosso

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More details getting finished: dashboard back together with oil pressure gauge and cleaned plastic lenses of stock gauges.

 

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Lower radiator hose finally figured out and installed - took one reducer made at the local muffler shop using stock 510 lower hose and stock VG33 short hose off the block

 

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Mix and match hose clamps look kinda funky but that will do until I get it driveable - then I can spiffy it up a bit.

 

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Here's an update probably with no pictures - I know - boring - but I wanted to give you an idea of what it takes to do a project like this from a hobbyist enthusiast car nut.

 

I have a 1972 Datsun 510 wagon and I love this little car. I am in the process of doing a VG33 conversion and it is a test of my ability and perseverance (this being posted on page 11).

 

First off, it would be immensely easier to stick with an L-series motor and build this as a fun street car. I have had two '72 sedans previously and build an L18 with all the goodies available back in 1978. It was a joy to drive and all around great daily driver.

 

The VG33 conversion is much more involved and has many more details to sort out. But the motor just looks so right.

 

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I couldn't resist just one picture,

 

Now for the details of this week and the kind of things you can expect during a project like this.

 

1. Put the last transmission crossmember bolt in since I could not get it in when I first installed the motor trans combo (from below). It was after a few hours and everything was in and I just wanted to enjoy accomplishing the milestone of the V6 in the car. I did it by myself. (and could only have done it by raising the car not the motor).

2. Replaced the brake master cylinder (good) now one fitting leaks (bad). Cross one item of the to-do list add one item - a recurring theme.

3. Run a new wire to the VG water temp sender and connect to original harness wire to gauge. Throw heat gun on intake manifold and it works! Sender and gauge speak the same language (thanks Dave Carroll for telling me).

4. Tidy up the oil pressure gauge wiring since it was rough run to check it worked. I have a new gauge and the original warning light working. (all new wires are being zip tied to the original harness until project is running and driving, then the entire bundle will get a new wrap.

5. Secure speedometer cable to bottom side of floor boards. The original 510 cable is too short and the next bigger size is very long, flops down, and would get torn off on first drive. Again one of the many details that is different and a solution needs to be found.

6. Sand rust from wiper arm linkage, use Gempler's  rust converter, let cure 48 hours, then paint silver.

7. Finally get lower radiator hose figured out (see post above). Hoses have been a struggle to find due to size differences on every hose/fitting.

8.Clean and polish instrument cluster plastic gauge covers since they had fogging. Reassemble last part of dash, sit back and admire the view. See post above for pic.

9. And put the car up on jack stands to be able to get under to do this in a very small garage.

 

So I got 9 things done, I had 31 on my list when I started and i now have... wait for it... 30 items to do. Maybe I am not a very good list maker. 🙃

 

And above all else, stay on the forum - I would not have been able to do this on my own without lots of help and knowledge from so many members. THANKS!

 

And did I say I love this car?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, vetteguy22 said:

It definitely sure does look right in there. Keep up the good work.

Thanks, given I am not a machinist or fabricator or have any of the fancy tools and work with a basic socket and gear wrench set it is amazing how well the car is coming along. The car is a very solid virtually rust free original car, so it has good bones.

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Finally received the upper radiator hose connector piece and had the one end enlarged to fit the VG manifold outlet. So it is a 1 1/2' X 1 5/8" stainless piece with rolled lip.

 

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I will need four hose clamps to assemble (I have two standard clamps).

 

What does everyone think of:

a. using all standard hose clamps and only need to buy 2 - cheapest solution

b. using Nissan wire hose clamps - need to buy 4 and seem a bit pricey and probably look the most retro resto.

c. using T-bolt hose clamps - need to buy 4 or mix and match

 

What do you think is the best clamp? I am leaning toward the T-bolt for best securing.

 

I only have a half dozen things to do before I can test run the engine.   <big grin>

 

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1 hour ago, Lockleaf said:

Seems like it's just a question of highest priority.

 

Do you want cheap, stock appearing, or most secure?  Pick highest priority and go for it.

 

I guess that was the question - are t-bolts better sealing than the Nissan wire clamps?

 

I can order either with Nissan wire clamps appearing to be a bit more expensive and harder to figure out size because almost every hose does not have the same size end. (stock '72, VG30, VG33, Champion radiator, metric vs inches, etc)

Thanks.

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Finally finished the radiator hoses - using a mix and match of clamps I had. Not pretty but will do to get the motor running and can do the spiffying up as I drive it.

 

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Stock fan shroud and 12" electric fan (2" thick) should fit too.

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On 11/3/2020 at 7:53 PM, rosso said:

 

I guess that was the question - are t-bolts better sealing than the Nissan wire clamps?

 

I can order either with Nissan wire clamps appearing to be a bit more expensive and harder to figure out size because almost every hose does not have the same size end. (stock '72, VG30, VG33, Champion radiator, metric vs inches, etc)

Thanks.

 

Wire clamps distribute stress better and so are "better" as well as stock appearance.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Exhaust manifolds installed - really tight fit on driver's side

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Easy Peasy on passenger side

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Could not have done it with normal studs - thanks Carter for the part numbers for the fancy studs with torx heads.

Made an oil dipstick bracket so I don't vibrate the tube out while tearing around the track. 🙂

 

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10 hours ago, vetteguy22 said:

What exhaust manifolds did you end up using?

From what I was told, these are S12 VG30 manifolds. Two of the bolt holes in each manifold are smaller and require enlarging to be able get the larger 10mm VG33 studs in and leave enough room to position the manifold with the bolt holes. Several test fits were needed to make sure all the studs would align with the bolt holes in the head.

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Installed the carb (with longer studs), wired the electric automatic choke, just need gas now. Distributor vacuum advance connected. One heater hose done - one last one to go.

 

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Couple of hose clamps and a fuel filter ordered so next week maybe give it a start.  <big grin>

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