'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test

[rosso]

So here's what I have for "wires and such" - thanks to all for replies and techie stuff.

 

 

It appears the white wire should be connected to a fusible link then attached to the starter main lug same as + terminal from battery.

 

This one happens to be from a 240Z from the same era, but I presume it is the same for the 510 and I could order one of the Z car links.

 

That leaves me with all these wires on the same side and a bit forward that are for the alternator and ?

 

 

The only thing I am fairly certain about is the white connector getting plugged into the alternator.

 

I keep telling myself - slow and sure is good...

[thisismatt]

Looks like ground (black) and +12v (white w/red stripe). The condenser (capacitor) connects to the positive alt lug also and then grounds its body to the alt case. It's mainly for electrical noise suppression for AM radio and can likely be tossed.

[thisismatt]

And yes, the T connector is the alternator "sense" wire and charge lamp wire.

[rosso]

Got a new valve cover installed because the one on the engine had a big oil filler neck sticking up too high that would hit the hood. Also have the water outlet to the radiator system started.

 

Wiring progress, here's what I have.

1. Voltage regulator removed for Internal regulated alternator and wires jumpered.

2. Electric choke relay removed - connector left unconnected to anything.

 

3. Second set of L16 points disconnected completely.

 

4. Fusible link added to white wire to starter main lug with battery + to be added later. Black/yellow connected to center space clip.

 

If anyone can confirm that all this is looking correct I would appreciate it. I have been looking at all the various posts on ratsun to combine all this. Thanks to Matt, Jeff and others for getting me this far.

 

Connecting the alternator wiring is next...

 

[thisismatt]

Looks fine from what I can see. Generally, wire nuts on automotive wiring is considered bad form 😉

[rosso]

Yeah, it's what I had and I will probably redo it after I have the VG33 running. there are a lot of little details that will get done once it's driving, like replacing the shifter bushings.

 

At least I used shrink wrap. 🙂

 

Thanks.

[thisismatt]

17 minutes ago, rosso said:

Yeah, it's what I had and I will probably redo it after I have the VG33 running. there are a lot of little details that will get done once it's driving, like replacing the shifter bushings.

 

At least I used shrink wrap. 🙂

 

Thanks.

True that.  Good to get things sorted before committing on every little detail.

[datzenmike]

 

Traditionally Yellow is rated at 60 amps protection for your wire harness. Substituting a Black??? 80 amps is not without risk. What does it say on the outside of the wire?

[rosso]

Thanks for the info Mike - the fusible link is from Z Car Source in Arizona and is for '72-'73 240 Z cars. I figured the wiring is the same for my '72 510 wagon so could use one. No rating anywhere on website or wire so I contacted them to find out.

 

https://zcarsource.com/fusible-link-72-73-new

 

I specifically ordered a fusible link to be safe with the car and one that had the correct connectors to plug into my harness.

 

I will let you know what they say if I get a reply.

 

Cheers

 

UPDATE: Z Car Source says 80 amp. No supply for 60 amp. Anyone know where to get this part with correct connections on each end? Mike?

Edited February 19, 2020 by rosso
update

[rosso]

And on to the alternator...

Here's the wiring diagram for the alternator area showing the "T" connector which I have.

 

My VG33 Bosch replacement alternator has two parallel spades in the connector and neither are marked for F or N. Anyone know where I can find this - no documentation in the box with the part.

I keep making progress two steps forward - one step back...

[thisismatt]

In that picture, the left is the "sense" (S) wire, and the right is the "lamp" (L) wire.  N = S, F = L.

[thisismatt]

You can either use basic disconnects on each, or get the plug from a newer Nissan.

[rosso]

Thanks Matt, that's a huge help. I checked the local Nissan dealer and he says the connectors are not readily available. So I will start checking other sources. As a last resort, as you mention, I can use something basic.

 

So relieved to know how to connect everything.  🙂🙂

 

As they say in New Zealand, I am over the moon.

[thisismatt]

Just type in "Nissan alternator connector" on ebay and you'll find lots of options

[vetteguy22]

Or go to your local wrecking yard. I’m sure you’ll easily find one.

[thisismatt]

Btw, what's the output on your new alternator?  You should upgrade the wiring from the alt to the battery if it's a higher output than stock.  It never hurts to go with larger wiring, like 8 or 6ga, or 4ga if you plan for a lot of usage eg stereo amps...

[rosso]

1 hour ago, thisismatt said:

Just type in "Nissan alternator connector" on ebay and you'll find lots of options

Holy superabundance Batman! Hope this one fits - for Pathfinder 3.3 V6.

[rosso]

1 hour ago, thisismatt said:

Btw, what's the output on your new alternator?  You should upgrade the wiring from the alt to the battery if it's a higher output than stock.  It never hurts to go with larger wiring, like 8 or 6ga, or 4ga if you plan for a lot of usage eg stereo amps...

 

Okay, that's another item for the list - it's 90amps, but I will not be using anything but the stock '72 electrical stuff - no amps or anything else.

 

Don't alternators only put out what you are using? So if I never use more than 60 amps, the original wiring (and fusible link) should be okay. Correct?

 

The White wire to the starter and the White/Red to the alternator are the largest diameter wire on the car. How would I measure what gauge it is?

[thisismatt]

Yes, it outputs based on draw, but your battery may try to draw all 90a after you've cranked and started the car. You should increase to 8ga or 6ga. For simplicity I would add straight from the alternator to the battery. You also need equally sufficient ground(s) from the block to chassis and chassis to battery negative.

[thisismatt]

9 hours ago, rosso said:

Holy superabundance Batman! Hope this one fits - for Pathfinder 3.3 V6.

That should work.

[rosso]

Opened up the wiring harness to trace wires for starter and alternator etc. Here's what I have in main bundle:

 

 

So it looks like all the previous questions I posted here and answers from Matt and DMike and others - I have it all correct and figured out. Eventually after I prove that it runs, I will probably want to change out the two main wires to starter and alternator with larger wires.

 

These appear to be no bigger than #10 AWG - does anyone have an original spec for these?

 

My hope is that I can prove that the wiring is correct for it to run and then deal with the 60amp fusible link (which may blow) and the smaller original wiring that will be okay for short periods (they are only about 18" long). I will keep the battery charged up with a separate charge so no huge amps coming from the alternator I hope.

 

Do I understand that the current flows both ways through the fusible link?

1. Battery + red cable to starter main lug -- to fusible link -- main crimp and to rest of car

2. When running and charging, Alternator White/Red -- main crimp -- White -- Fusible link -- starter main lug -- battery +

 

Thanks all.

[rosso]

On 2/19/2020 at 6:55 AM, thisismatt said:

You also need equally sufficient ground(s) from the block to chassis and chassis to battery negative.

I think I may have this one handled 🙂

Main negative battery cable to block lug.

 

Ground strap from block motor mount to steering box

 

Good enough?

Cheers

[thisismatt]

Personally, I would get the ground strap straight to the body, and a strap/cable directly from battery to body.

[thisismatt]

14 minutes ago, rosso said:

Opened up the wiring harness to trace wires for starter and alternator etc. Here's what I have in main bundle:

 

 

So it looks like all the previous questions I posted here and answers from Matt and DMike and others - I have it all correct and figured out. Eventually after I prove that it runs, I will probably want to change out the two main wires to starter and alternator with larger wires.

 

These appear to be no bigger than #10 AWG - does anyone have an original spec for these?

 

My hope is that I can prove that the wiring is correct for it to run and then deal with the 60amp fusible link (which may blow) and the smaller original wiring that will be okay for short periods (they are only about 18" long). I will keep the battery charged up with a separate charge so no huge amps coming from the alternator I hope.

 

Do I understand that the current flows both ways through the fusible link?

1. Battery + red cable to starter main lug -- to fusible link -- main crimp and to rest of car

2. When running and charging, Alternator White/Red -- main crimp -- White -- Fusible link -- starter main lug -- battery +

 

Thanks all.

 

Yes. That's why with an upgraded alternator I would run a new dedicated wire from the alt to the starter lug or straight to the battery, but leave the fusible link & associated wiring.  You can put an additional inline fuse on this new run if you like, but probably not 100% necessary as long as it's routed cleanly.

[rosso]

How about moving strap from steering to the lower motor mount bolt, left bottom of photo?