'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test

[thisismatt]

Correct.

[rosso]

still working on it little by little - redid the hood latch area:

 

you may recall my first attempt - quite the failure (although I did get rid of the rust):

 

 

Wire brushed, de-rusted, and painted the inside of the rear bumper:

 

straightened the bumper brackets and mounting points, de-rusted and painted

 

sanded and painted the rear valance, de-rusted the bolt holes and rustoleum painted - it's still dented - but I can live with it - here's what I started with:

 

and finished (enough for me)

 

 

Still aiming for Powerland 2020 !!

[rosso]

Anyone reading this thread will know I am swapping the stock 510 strut/brakes for the 280ZX stuff. I have been wondering what flexible brake lines to order - 510 or 280ZX. So here is what I found out from Centric:

 

Centric brake line part numbers and lengths;

280ZX Hose #150.42300 is 324mm long

510 Hose #150.42004 is 370mm long

 

So I am going to order the stock 510 hoses (which as stated in the Brakes forum about this same question) that appear to fit just fine when the 280ZX calipers are used.

 

Thanks to Centric Tech support for this info.

[vetteguy22]

Yes they should work just fine.

[rosso]

I have the engine ready for the transmission and on a dolly for sliding under the wagon:

I

 

A few questions came up:

1. How clean do I need to make the bell-housing area of the trans? The flange is completely clean and smooth and I have degreased & scrubbed the inside of it - Is this clean enough:

 

2. Is the circled notch a drain hole or is there a plug/grommet I need to install?

 

3. How hard is it to replace the shifter bushing(s), here's what I have:

There is at least a 1/2" slop in all directions. The big collar with two notches appears to unscrew from the trans cover and then there are 3 spring clips holding ?? The plastic looking collar at the very bottom of the stack  (and the gear lever) have a lot of play.

 

I am just looking for some advice before I take this apart and things fly all over the place. 🥴

 

LAST question, here is the offset starter I have (recommended by EE/Dave Carroll for better clearances) and I want to test the starter to flywheel engagement.

I will bolt it up to the engine and then just want to kick the starter gear out and see that it engages the flywheel - but I don't want to spin the engine since I have it set for TDC. What wires would I need to connect from a battery to engage the starter but not spin it? Anyone know if this is possible?

 

Thanks, things are moving along

 

[thisismatt]

Should be able to remove and set aside the black wire with the ring terminal, then hook up power to the other terminal, and power to the spade/disconnect to engage the solenoid, while grounding the metal case.

[rosso]

We'll give that a try tomorrow - it's next on the list to do.

Thanks Matt

[vetteguy22]

The bell housing looks good. As long as it’s free from any dirt and grease. Yes that is a drain hole. Do not plug it. I’ve never heard of being able to engage the starter electrically without it turning over the motor. Granted I’m use to working on domestic vehicles, maybe these guys are different. You should be able to bench test it first to make sure it can be done without spinning the gear.

Edited January 25, 2020 by vetteguy22

[4perrev]

Nice Goon and great job with the transition.  Keep up the good work!

 

[rosso]

Hey Matt,

 

When I tried popping the start gear out, it did come out but not all the way. So I grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled it out by hand.

 

 

Everything looked good and aligned, and it appeared that the gear just needs to rotate slightly to move all the way out. Thanks for the advice, now I can ease my mind that it will all work after I put the transmission in place and cover this up.

[vetteguy22]

Are you planning on using the stock radiator? What about a fan?

looks like things are coming along.

[rosso]

I have a new Champion aluminum radiator from ebay and I plan to try running with the original VG33 clutch fan if it fits. Just because I have it and I don't have extra money. 🙁

 

 

I am getting very close to putting the motor in !!

[vetteguy22]

That’s the same radiator I’m using. I was unable to use the stock fan. The fan sets off center to the driver side and hits the upper radiator hose fitting on the radiator on mine. I ended up going with 2 - 8” electric fans. I was not able to find a fan shroud unless I wanted to spend $170 to have champion make a custom one so I made one myself from 3/16” sheet aluminum.

[rosso]

I can see how that might happen with the slight offset of the fan. Is this the same fan you had:

I will probably try getting the motor in this week - then we'll see how everything sorts out.

 

Thanks for the heads-up.

Edited January 27, 2020 by rosso

[vetteguy22]

Yes same fan. I even tried to figure out how to use the stock 510 fan might work but didn’t like anything I came up with.

[rosso]

Lots of clean up today because...

 

 

 

yesterday was a big day...

 

 

Whew...

 

and Rob, no way the original fan fits - does not even clear the radiator support member. I may need to put in a pusher.

 

Thanks to all you guys for tech info sent and support.

[rosso]

Wiring my starter with the VG33 - it's an early Z31 gear reduction starter

 

So I need:

1. a red cable from main battery - to which main lug?

2. black and yellow wire from ignition to spade connecter in middle of starter?

3. body of starter is grounded to block

 

Anything else - it seems like I have lots more wires hanging down in that area from the old L16.

 

Here's the wiring diagram I have been using: not sure about the white wire and fusable link coming to the starter

All help is appreciated - car wiring seems to run all over the place.

[hobospyder]

I'll see if I can take a picture of my z31 starter and send it to you when I get home. Havent gotten that far into the engine bay yet 

[Draker]

1. Far right Lug

2. Middle Spade

3. Ground though engine block. Make SURE the engine has a few good grounds to the body, otherwise you'll have issues.

[banzai510(hainz)]

what happens is the lug on the right(in photo) which YOU hook the battery up will short to the Left LUG when you give the selinoid 12volts thru that connector.

Now you can use the stock 510 wire instead of using that big connector with the jumper to the starter selinoid. But I think I would add a HOT start relay using the stock 510 starter wire then make a wire to the selinoid.   The newer Nissans used a relay to the starter anyways instead of going thru the key switch and over time it don't throw the selinoid out far enough thus making the click click click sound.

 

heres a simple drawing of a hot start relay. Instead of going from the Battery positive I would take pin 30 from relay at the starter lug so make the wire shorter

https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5121780-1992-VW-Jetta-1-8L-8V-hot-start-problem!!!!-Please-help!!!

Edited January 30, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[thisismatt]

The fusible link & white wire are pulling power at the starter lug, not going "to" it.  You'll notice that's the only source of positive power for the whole rest of car.  You can do the same or run power straight from the battery.

 

Battery goes to right lug on your starter as pictured.  The solenoid has two functions - it acts as a high current relay to make the connection between starter motor and battery, and it also throws the starter gear into the flywheel ring gear.

[rosso]

Thanks so much Matt - I kept looking at the wiring diagrams trying to find where the car got its power - looking for a wire at the battery. It makes much more sense now that you pointed out that the white wire and fusible link are getting power from the starter lug.  !!!!! thanks 👍👍👍

[thisismatt]

No prob! The hot start relay is a good idea also.

[rosso]

Waiting for parts as I work on putting the suspension back in the front end.

 

Installed new sway bar end links, new ball joints, painted stuff black, installed a TC rod kit from EE (Dave Carroll)

 

 

Also used the JBC frame washer kit (visible in photo) - for added strength and peace of mind with the VG33.

[vetteguy22]

Looking good.