vetteguy22 Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 Always use a shroud if possible. It will move much more air through he radiator. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 Increases fan efficiency at low speeds and idle. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 The ballast resistor wire is simple.blk whit is ignition the blk blu is the start or bypass wire which you need both the wires from the dist you don’t need primary and the 2ndary The switch on the fire wall not needed the 12volt choke wire?????the the relay for that the volt reg most just use the jumper wires OR using a old mating VR connector shorted the is plugged in Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 (edited) Another positive thing happened as I finished the center console - I noticed this: The gas gauge works! And it looks like there is enough of something (like gas) in the tank that maybe it is not all gunky or corroded. So i can drain it - maybe 2-3 gallons - and hopefully put some new gas with antifreeze and be okay. I can be an optimist. 🙂 If I can avoid pulling the gas tank out, that would save me a ton of time for stuff to get done. Right now I am up against the Powerland date and not being able to go out for parts or supplies and deliveries being delayed. Only 9 weeks and I still need to get the driveshaft shortened and have an exhaust pipe made to connect the headers (if EE can get them made) to my exhaust system. Wrenching away on the Olympic Peninsula... Edited April 14, 2020 by rosso Quote Link to comment
vetteguy22 Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 What did you notice? Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 If you missed the center console post in the body/interior forum, here is a photo: 3 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 1 minute ago, vetteguy22 said: What did you notice? The gas gauge works! Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted April 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Anyone want to recommend a brand of electric fan? I'll take quiet, cheap, or good quality. Two out of three would be nice. Anything to help narrow down the choices, since I don't know about any of them and never had one. Seems to be a ton on ebay and amazon. Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Davies Craig. Not cheap, but supposedly very good. I bought an cheap ebay fan some years back. Waste of money. 😞 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Retrofit factory parts. Pull a junkyard setup. Best fans on earth and cheap too. Find something of a similar displacement and go from there. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 16, 2020 Report Share Posted April 16, 2020 Ebay and Amazon take forever now … Summit is practically overnight delivery still .. (I don't know about fans, but I doubt they sell ebay/amazon quality) Oh, and this wagon is awesome Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted April 16, 2020 Report Share Posted April 16, 2020 I installed a pair of Hayden fans just yesterday on the green FJ car. They were replacements for the fans that had been in there for 20 years or so. I was mightily impressed by their customer service. --carter Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted August 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 It's been a long time since I updated - mostly because I haven't been working on the project. Finances and covid-19 have put a crimp on project funds. I did pick up a pair of red rear side marker lenses since mine were amber. Took everything apart and wire brushed the rust out of the reflectors, rust converted it, then primer and then tried Rustoleum bright metallic spray paint. turned out okay, but not really chrome - so I won't use it to repaint the rear hatch vents.☹️ Anyone found a really good chrome paint? Here's the results: Just fine for the reflectors under the red lenses. Wouldn't use it for headlight reflectors. 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Looks pretty decent for paint. I think you're going to be disappointed with any paint looking for anything resembling real chrome. Quote Link to comment
vetteguy22 Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Agree with Matt. Chrome paint is not that great. Rob Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Also they were never shiny chrome to begin with, just regular zinc. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted August 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 Here's the side marker result - a beautiful red color, photo does not do it justice. 4 Quote Link to comment
vetteguy22 Posted August 4, 2020 Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 Looking good. Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 (edited) I decided to not use an MSD box partly because of shortage of funds (due to covid loss of work) I now want to run just a simple coil. I have a Saudi distributor for a VG33 carb engine and I want to wire it directly to the coil. The '72 wiring diagram has a BW wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor: Since I do not need the resistor with the electronic distributor am I correct I can run the BW directly to the +coil terminal? Here are the wires in the coil area: So I use the BW and the rest of them are un-needed? (they are for the relay and 2nd set of stock '72 points) Then I just need to run a new wire from -coil terminal to dizzy? Here are the two wires at the dizzy: If I open up the distributor what am I looking for to identify the correct wire to connect the coil? This would certainly be a simple wiring project and free up a couple hundred dollars I need for a Holley 2bbl carb. Thanks to all the electric members who have been so helpful so far. 🙂 Edited October 6, 2020 by rosso 3 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Decided to make some space in the garage by putting things back ON the car. I had already painted the radiator and radiator support piece black - was thinking of painting the grille five center ribs black too but after I looked at it I kinda liked it all silver with the black behind it. 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Installed the distributor and cleaned up the coil wiring. Getting close on the water hoses - lower rad hose needs a straight metal 4" long adapter 1 5/8" to 1 3/8". Water temp sender and vacuum fitting to distributor installed in manifold. Not sure I ever mentioned that I got a set of cleaned up valve covers from Dave Carroll and gave him mine which had all kinds of brackets and hose tube fitting and long goose neck oil tube (it looked really funky). The Stant oil filler cap that fit fine on my cover did not seal on the new one ( VG33 vs VG30 maybe), so I had to make an extra gasket. Made a bracket to hold the check oil level tube. Details, details, details. 2 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted October 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 As I work on the conversion, I go from one thing to the next depending on what parts I have or what parts I need to order and therefor change to another task. Here's my latest task that needs a part: the lower radiator hose from the 510 rad to the VG33 hose from the engine. I need a 3" long metal reducing coupler that is 1 5/8" (the VG33 size) then down to 1 3/8" (the 510 size). I have searched the interwebs, jegs, summit, napa, etc but not found anything. So far the only proposed solution is to go to a muffler shop and have them make me a piece - but it would probably be just plain steel. An aluminum radiator coupler would probably just split if expanded. Any suggestions? Remember I do not have any fabrication or machining tools and a local machine shop would be at least $50. Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted October 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 Brake (13/16") and clutch master cylinders replaced. Where I started from with one cap de-rusted: 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted October 12, 2020 Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 Check for PVC plumbing fittings or if you prefer the brass for a coupling. I will use brass for my Riley project for the same reason. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 12, 2020 Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 Hi temp pvc or abs. Glue a small piece into the big piece. Cut some grooves for hose grip. Quote Link to comment
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