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About rosso

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    not a newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Angeles, WA
  • Cars
    '72 510 Wagon
  • Interests
    Strawbale sustainable housing
    Photography, Cars

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  1. I am trying a center armrest rather than a large console. From Walmart and just fits between stock seats. It is supposed to arrive tomorrow and I'll let you know how it fits. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Leather-Black-Stitching-Console-Handrest-Cup-Armrest-Center-Rear-Juke-Holder-For-Box-Holder-Change-Double-Adjustable-Ashtray-Red-Krator-Storage-Car-2/334970833
  2. Fan shroud or not with 12" electric fan? Test fit the original fan shroud with the new radiator and V6. Seems to fit okay. What has everyone been using/suggesting. What sort of CFM has everyone decided is need for the VG33? Do I even need the shroud and can I then use a 14" fan to move more air? I am just looking ahead as I wait on some parts to arrive.
  3. Short answer is yes, as you suggest banzai, I am retaining the original wiring as much as possible. I am not pulling out original wiring that works, all the lights, horn, etc are still original wiring. What I am removing are the things that are no longer on the car, like the second set of points relay, the automatic choke relay, external voltage regulator and so on. Wherever there is a connector that went to these items, I am leaving it and marking it and will eventually re-wrap the finished wiring to tidy it up. I am trying to remove any wire that went to any of these things that currently goes to nowhere or that is not needed, for example the ballast resistor wiring (I am using an MSD 6AL ignition box). Most of my questions have been to identify what wires I can safely remove that are no longer needed and have no connections at both ends. Understanding the wiring diagram is a bit confusing for me and I do not want to take a wire out that will create a problem I don't have. Everything so far works remarkably well. I have installed an Autometer oil pressure gauge and all that wiring is new and separate. I have used an adapter to also retain the original dash oil warning light through the original wiring, even going to the trouble of making a color correct extension wire to reach the sending unit on the other side of the VG33. I will be running a carb so no need for any of the engine management wiring or new relay box.
  4. Thanks, I don't think I should quit my day job though.
  5. Everybody, Stand Back - I am doing body work... You know how dangerous I can be with a rattle can. In process, derusting and treating : Primed and a couple of coats of color with rattle cans. Still need some sanding and more paint but coming along. a-a-a-a-h, much better. Not perfect but better and I will be going past everyone so fast no one will notice... <smile>
  6. It's not just the exchange rate (1.60Aud to 1.00US) which makes it $235 but Aussies and Kiwis get raked over the coals for shipping and just being charged more. This would be over $300 and then there is tax. Currently in NZ it is 15% so that is another $45. All up you are probably looking a three-fitty. I know, I lived in New Zealand for almost 10 years and it is horrible how ripped off they are. But it is a beautiful country and nice place to live. Loved it there.
  7. .. and the brake master cylinder leaks too... Same question as my previous post, what year and model replacement (or part number) is best. I have 280ZX struts, calipers, and rotors with stock 510 drum brakes in the rear. I have swapped in a VG33 and do not plan to use a brake booster unless the car just will not stop. I know there has been lots of posts on here about 3/4" or 7/8" and pedal feel vs pressure. Here is one sold by Z Car Depot for Z cars - bleed screws are on opposite side from stock 510 (but they could be reversible) https://zcardepot.com/collections/master-cylinder/products/brake-master-cylinder-7-8-240z-260z-280z-70-78# What else has anyone used - good BTDT recommendations appreciated. Anyone see problems with the above? Thanks all again.
  8. After installing the VG33 and 5-speed with new 300ZX clutch slave cylinder, it turns out that the clutch master cylinder leaks. 😞 Lots of posters here mention using a slave cylinder that is self adjusting. So far I have found no documentation, or exploded diagram, that such a slave cylinder exists. The self adjusting part is apparently in the master cylinder. So replacing the stock '72 510 master cylinder will not work and I need to figure out what master cylinder to order. Can anyone point me to a correct replacement clutch master cylinder? Website, part number, model and year? Thanks to all who have helped, this forum has been great. Stay safe, stay home.
  9. Off with the old... On with the new(er). Anyone have some good ideas about sealing up the transmission tunnel? I do not have a welder. How much water actually gets up that high?
  10. Thanks Matt - this makes more sense - now I can look at the wiring diagram again. I could not really figure out what the dots meant it was just looking crazy, Now I see it is the lines between the dots that are important. 👍
  11. Here's my car: It looks shiny but has uneven blotches like faded but they don't easily come out by hand. Thanks Brandon for the info, Since we are now officially in a "stay home" state I won't be ab;e to go to Harbor Freight to buy a polisher. I will start with the polishing compound I have and if that doesn't work go stronger. (M105?) I guess the polishing will have to wait until we get through this virus mess.
  12. Even with the ignition switch in the "OFF" position? I guess I don't understand the wiring diagram little switch boxes and dots and lines to indicate what is working.
  13. Over the next week or so as I wait for parts to arrive, or I just get tired of doing the mechanical stuff, I want to start cleaning and polishing the car - and so far just doing it by hand is not giving me the results I had hoped for. Any suggestions on how to go about this - I do not own a polishing machine, but might try something at Harbor Freight if I knew what that something was. Suggestions anyone? I have 3 almost full bottles of Meguars: Cleaner/was, Swirl Remover, and Polishing compound. Hoping to be able to use them rather than buying more stuff. Thanks in advance - the project car is really turning out nicely and only a bit over 11 weeks to Powerland 2020
  14. Definitely have to start making decisions on stuff like this if I am going to get this done, I was going to leave the bumperettes on because I figured the bumper would be all rested and cruddy looking if I took them off. But to my surprise, the chrome is actually better - so it's the clean look! Also decided to order an MSD 6AL ignition and spend the money to simplify the wiring and eliminate the ballast resistor and trying to figure out all that wiring. Any BTDT forum members with advice on how to remove all the old wiring? and speaking of wiring, I have power to all electrics all the time even with the ignition switch in the off position. (horn, lights, brake lights etc). I can live with it like that for a while but would like to figure out how to fix it proper. Cheers to all, stay safe, stay home and listen to the medical people, not the politicians before you go back to work or back to life as usual.
  15. Decided to take a break from trying to figure out problems and getting parts ordered and work on how the car looks. Took off the front bumperettes; bam with bumperettes I originally rather liked them since they were in good shape and it's a wagon; however, looking at the clean bumper I have changed my mind. Clean = moar better.
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