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About rosso

  • Rank
    not a newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Angeles, WA
  • Cars
    '72 510 Wagon
  • Interests
    Strawbale sustainable housing
    Photography, Cars

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  1. Time Left: 28 days and 3 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I am in need of the cable that runs from the dash controls to the heater box and controls the on/off of heat. The cable runs down to the passenger side of the heater box and connects via lever/rod to the actual heater valve on the driver's side. Looking for a cable with two good ends - not broken and rebent.


    Port Angeles, Washington - US

  2. So 10.9 is good enough? Rather than 12.9 (grade 10?)
  3. I will be installing my shortened drive shaft in a couple of weeks (when I get it back) and wanted to use new bolts. Any recommendations for using 8.8. 10.9, or 12.9 hardened bolts? I want to order them now so they are here at the same time as the driveshaft.
  4. Dropped the driveshaft off today in Fife at Drivelines NW. It's a couple weeks out since they are a bit backlogged.
  5. Distance from fender lip to center of axle on my wagon is 11" and I have 2" lowering blocks.
  6. Can you PM me more details and cost for the whole unit - this might still be easier than rebuilding a valve. If I have to pull the whole unit out to get the valve off, maybe just stuffing in a whole new unit might be a good option. Is the unit known to be good? Thanks
  7. Oh it will be go because VG33 and 180HP.
  8. Thanks, I love how the engine is running. The only reason I have a bungee cord is to temporarily keep the battery from getting bumped while I work on the car. I was waiting until I had the engine running and was sure it was okay since I bought the engine from an engine importer and had no idea how it ran. I also bought a very cheap battery to use temporarily also, so did not want to make a bracket that would get tossed. I don't have a driveshaft in yet either.
  9. Yes, please do look and let me know. I am also looking for a passenger side "A" pillar interior trim.
  10. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    Wanted - new or used heater control valve to fit a 1972 510 wagon. Mine is leaking and corroded looking.


    Port Angeles, Washington - US

  11. So on to the next thing - the heater control valve leaks - as expected since it was corroded looking in the interior. What is everyone doing about replacements? Anything really easy and "plug and play" As I worked on the major stuff on this project I kept an eye on all the posts about parts and suppliers and have googled quite a bit. I bookmarked just about every site having to do with Datsun - looking at them all now, I don't see anything with heater valves. I'm open to any ideas you all have. I posted a parts wanted in the classifieds. Bought a
  12. The dizzy came with the car about 2 years ago from my son and probably a few years before that from Dave Carroll or a source he knew. But no one can remember at this point.
  13. I am not sure what the squeaking was, before I could even get a look at where it was coming from it went away and never came back as I let the engine warm up and have the thermostat open. So far all is good - oil pressure is good, stock oil pressure light works. Charge light also works and goes out so I think the alternator is working - I will put a meter on it the next time I run. Stock temp gauge works. Not sure how to set the belt tensioner yet, so it could have been that. Given how many wiring changes I made I am amazed that everything is working so well and that it
  14. Thanks, I have posted to youtube, here's the link.
  15. I was doing little things and received this: So I installed it, continued to mess around and then I started the VG33 up !! Runs sweet - if I could figure our how to post a video you all can see and hear it. Help me figure out how to share this - I have it on flickr.com but can't get it to post to ratsun. Posted on youtube, as suggested below by thisismatt It's about 45 sec and 90MB. Loud as can be with just exhaust manifolds on it. Happy day here!
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