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rosso

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About rosso

  • Rank
    not a newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Angeles, WA
  • Cars
    '72 510 Wagon
  • Interests
    Strawbale sustainable housing
    Photography, Cars

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  1. From what I was told, these are S12 VG30 manifolds. Two of the bolt holes in each manifold are smaller and require enlarging to be able get the larger 10mm VG33 studs in and leave enough room to position the manifold with the bolt holes. Several test fits were needed to make sure all the studs would align with the bolt holes in the head.
  2. Exhaust manifolds installed - really tight fit on driver's side Easy Peasy on passenger side Could not have done it with normal studs - thanks Carter for the part numbers for the fancy studs with torx heads. Made an oil dipstick bracket so I don't vibrate the tube out while tearing around the track. 🙂
  3. Relay on right looks like electric choke relay for '72-'73 510 US only
  4. There is always Datzilla. Pete Brock's 510 with all aluminum chevy V8. You would probably have to do even more cutting.
  5. rosso

    GOONS check in

    The three fasteners are actually rivet like things, not bolts and the wiper motor arm has a funny circlip. Here are pictures: No idea if the rivet things press in or not.
  6. rosso

    GOONS check in

    Patience, lots of PB Blaster, weeks of soaking in vinegar and gently coaxing things apart for weeks and de-rusting. I got mine all apart, but here's where I started: Where I am at now: I was able to free up the pivots but only get one of them apart. Still working on the other one but at least it is free to rotate not rusted solid. My go to solution for removing rust is vinegar. Soaks for days or weeks but does get rid of rust and is cheap and I had a couple of gallons of it from somewhere. Good luck.
  7. Electric choke relay located on the strut tower behind the battery. Only on '72-'73 510.
  8. Yes your vote got counted - using a sharpie pen was perfectly fine to vote. There is no evidence that any ballots marked with sharpies were not counted.
  9. More bits and bobs doing: Taillight lenses cleaned and a quick polish Carburetor throttle linkage trimmed so I have full closed and full open movement
  10. Time Left: 5 days and 4 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    Brand new set of stock front brake pads for the '70 - '73 510. Centric semi-metallic - correct slanted pads for stock calipers. These will probably fit in a small flat rate box - shipping by USPS is about the cheapest, you pay what it costs.

    $9.00

    Port Angeles, Washington - US

  11. Finally finished the radiator hoses - using a mix and match of clamps I had. Not pretty but will do to get the motor running and can do the spiffying up as I drive it. Stock fan shroud and 12" electric fan (2" thick) should fit too.
  12. Here is a good reference to show the difference the American Racing Libre wheel vs a no name brand. I seems that your wheels are knockoffs. http://zparts.com/zp_html/zptech/comparisons/wheels/pages/are_vs_noname_back.html The web page may load slowly, give it a chance to display the images.
  13. I guess that was the question - are t-bolts better sealing than the Nissan wire clamps? I can order either with Nissan wire clamps appearing to be a bit more expensive and harder to figure out size because almost every hose does not have the same size end. (stock '72, VG30, VG33, Champion radiator, metric vs inches, etc) Thanks.
  14. Finally received the upper radiator hose connector piece and had the one end enlarged to fit the VG manifold outlet. So it is a 1 1/2' X 1 5/8" stainless piece with rolled lip. I will need four hose clamps to assemble (I have two standard clamps). What does everyone think of: a. using all standard hose clamps and only need to buy 2 - cheapest solution b. using Nissan wire hose clamps - need to buy 4 and seem a bit pricey and probably look the most retro resto. c. using T-bolt hose clamps - need to buy 4 or mix and match What do you think is the best clamp? I am leaning toward the T-bolt for best securing. I only have a half dozen things to do before I can test run the engine. <big grin>
  15. Last of the surface rust removal and conversion. Glad to be done with it. Just need to do some filler on the hatch surface then paint the whole hatch and wiper cowl area.
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