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About rosso

  • Rank
    not a newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Angeles, WA
  • Cars
    '72 510 Wagon
  • Interests
    Strawbale sustainable housing
    Photography, Cars

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556 profile views
  1. I am trying to keep the body and rest of the car as original as possible - even though I am doing the VG33 engine swap. I was amazed when I got a good look at the floor boards since they are so good considering the car sat for many years. Seats, headliner, all in really good shape. Paint is good too with a bit of surface rust and a few deeper bits of rust but not bad. Lots of stone chips and those are rusting too. Since I am not a body shop person, it will be a challenge to fix them. The rear hatch has been replaced and needs some rust repair especially around the air vents and drain tubes. All in good time - getting it running as a daily is my first priority.
  2. I have stripped all the wires, tubes, piping, and multitude of clamps (I really dislike clamps) off the engine and getting ready to install new stuff. It's nice to be able to see the actual engine now. Test fitting the carb intake manifold **bling**: All the EFI intake, fuel injectors, fuel rail, O2 sensors, knock sensor, tubes and pipes are for sale in the classified.
  3. Started to work on the motor and disassembly. Here's what I found at the water inlet (thermostat): I wonder how this wasn't leaking... Decided to buy a gasket rather than try the liquid stuff. Anyone who has done the swap or using a VG33 - did you use a gasket or just a ring of liquid sealant? Any reason to not use a gasket?
  4. Thanks for the offer of test fitting a splash pan with your oil pan (and compared to the one I have above) - I won't be ready to do anything about that until after everything is in and done and running. Most likely after the Canby=Powerland meet in June. But I will remember you have one - Thanks !!
  5. I am using Dave's Experimental Engineering oil pan.
  6. Checking the fit of the splash pan with the custom oil pan on the VG33 is on my list of things to do. I don't have a splash pan, but will get one if it looks like there is no interference. My recollection is the splash pan does not really do a good job of sealing off the underside - on my first 510 I made a custom aluminum belly pan that went all the way back to the crossmember.
  7. Yes, I really looked at that as well and thought it might clear - but since the hood is off the car and hard to get back on to check clearance, I thought - why not just lower the radiator and not have to do it later after everything else is in the way if it does hit. I am working alone on the project, so getting the hood on would not be easy for me Thanks for sharing your setup.
  8. Thanks Bamboo, I am trying to keep the use of the stock shoulder belt so need a replacement that allows for it to clip into the buckle area. Finding a stock belt end would be the easiest solution. Hopefully someone has one and will respond to my classified request.
  9. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    All I need is the little short 15" piece that bolts to the center tunnel area that has the buckle. Anyone have one for sale?


  10. Finished mounting the radiator - lowered it almost 3/4" from stock holes. It sits just about 1/8" above the front frame rail. Stock location looked like the filler cap would hit the hood. Before:
  11. While I am waiting for parts to arrive for my VG33 swap, I started working on the interior and have a couple of questions. Is 71Dimer still selling carpets? I pm'd him but no reply yet. Are there any other sources for a front (only) carpet. stockinteriors.com only does complete kits. The latch on my front driver seat belt does not click on to the tongue and the button seems to have a broken spring or other internal part. Are there any rebuild kits, or replacement belts pieces available. All I need is the little short 15" piece that bolts to the center tunnel area. Anyone have one for sale? (I am posting a wtb in the classifieds also.) Has anyone added extra support to the stock 510 bucket seats? Extra springs maybe? Or some really firm foam? Or at least add some to the side bolster seat areas to help lateral support I am just looking for some help for the old worn out springs in the seat that have no real support. My seats are in fairly good condition with only one rip in the driver's seat bottom, so it would be nice to firm them up for as little expense as possible. My door cards are in good shape too, just wondering the best way to clean and restore them - product suggestions? I have a good dashpad to replace the cracked one in the car and a factory tach to figure out the wiring on for the V6 conversion. I'll post pictures over on my project thread as get to them. Any help or ideas on the seats and seat belts would be appreciated.
  12. Time Left: 22 days and 7 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I am selling all the stuff off the top of my engine, fuel injectors, fuel rail, upper and lower intake manifold, throttle body, all the piping and plumbing bits and pieces and brackets. O2 sensor and another similar fuel mixture sensor (I think). Not included is spark plugs and wires, fan, and valve cover breather fittings. No distributor came on engine. I may have exhaust manifolds too, but will need to wait until I am further along with my swap. All these pieces are from a JDM motor from Japan that has about 60,000 miles on it. I would love to sell everything together, but could separate the fuel stuff from the manifolds, and plumbing/emissions stuff. Value seems well over $500. First offer $400 takes everything. Pickup in Port Angeles, Washington, or will meet in the Seattle/Tacoma area, or you pay shipping.


  13. rosso

    Transmission oil

    Are you recommending this for all manual transmissions - I am planning to drain and fill the 5-speed going into the VG33 swap as a preventative maintenance item since I have no history on the trans.
  14. It sounds like you have fabrication skills and resources - the radiator I got fits in the space and aligns with the holes in the front core support perfectly (other than the slight adjustment down and back from front which only requires drilling 4 new holes and using a rubber spacer on each bolt. Fabricating the water hoses seemed to me to be easier than trying to find a different radiator to fit. The bottom hose is in the correct place already. You can adapt just about anything I guess, I don't do welding and this was a bolt in replacement.
  15. If I were to paint it, I would use some of the Eastman radiator paint and it would only be painted on the front in the holes of the core support. (so there is black behind the grille for visual looks) I have not started on the hoses yet, that will have to wait until I get the motor in but several others here have done the VG swap and used various solutions. Also I have seen a few photos with hose configurations that look okay. I will PM you and we can discuss solutions to that and other issues like exhausts, motor mounts, etc., and how far along you are.

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