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rosso

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About rosso

  • Rank
    not a newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Angeles, WA
  • Cars
    '72 510 Wagon
  • Interests
    Strawbale sustainable housing
    Photography, Cars

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  1. Found the reference - it's carpartsmanual.com and the part number is 79101-22900 I keep forgetting that this website has a Futofab banner on it so I always go to the Futofab website instead and can't find this. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/bluebird-1968-1973/body-(wagon)/tail-gate-bumper
  2. Thanks Carter, that is a great shot of the body work and rear valance early on in the thread. I had read a few posts of recent but had not gone back to read the whole thing. Great reading! tr8er, I don't have that piece on my car so wasn't aware it was there - thanks and is that piece really necessary? Item #3 in the following diagram. I can't find the source for this diagram or actual part numbers. Anyone have a Nissan part # for it or where it is available?
  3. Found one on the interwebs that shows the rear valance is relatively flat across. Mine is not. ☹️☹️☹️ It got dark before I could grab a photo tonight. Will have to figure out something, at least the hatch closes and latches.
  4. Does anyone have a photo of what the rear valance panel looks like on the '72 510 wagons? I think mine is dented in at least two places but hard to tell. I would like to see a photo of what it should look like to see if I can save mine or need to source a new one. Most of the body is in great shape except for this rear valance. Thanks in advance for any help.
  5. Working on the oil pressure gauges - here is the center section of my dash this morning: No radio and a bit cut up - so scrubbed it off, grabbed a piece of plastic from the car stereo store for $2 and made the oil pressure gauge block off plate. Not planning to have a radio for a while so did the easiest and cheapest way to get a gauge in. Here's what I ended up with: Still needs a bit more cleaning and renewing the black but much better and hopefully I can see oil pressure when I crank the VG33.
  6. Congrats - look forward to seeing the build. 🙂
  7. I have been looking for a source of striped wire to start redoing the wiring on my VG33 510 project. Does anyone have a good source for wires that resemble the factory multi-colored stuff? What gauge wire is it all? Here is the closest I have found: https://www.sherco-auto.com/striped-tracer-wire.html Here is their Yellow/Black Any other good sources?
  8. Most of the products I would use may not be available in Australia. I like the rust converters that do not require washing off, neutralizing or rinsing. Wire brush, sand or scrape off rust, vacuum or blow of dust, prep with cleaner/acetone. 1. Gempler's Rust Converter - brush on two coats, then paint. 2. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum - brush/spray on one coat, then paint. For chassis or wheel wells I would use Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black spray paint (satin or gloss) Go to their website and watch the video. I have used the Gempler's and it is easy to use - just follow the directions. I have top coated this with inexpensive VHT engine paint in spray can and black works nicely. If you are going to use a light color, then I recommend using a primer before top coat since the Gempler's turns rust very black and top coats take 3-4 coats to cover it well. My project page: "72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test" has photos of using the Gempler's https://ratsun.net/topic/74834-72-510-goon-prova-because-it-will-be-a-test/ Good luck and congrats on the 510 - make sure you post lots of pics - we love pics. :-)
  9. Thanks Rob, sounds cool, Using the L series sender from the 510 should screw into the VG33 and work the dash light without a problem. Then the Autometer gauge will have its own compatible sender included with it so should work fine with new wiring separate from anything else. M UPDATE: Here's the "T" adapter I ordered BSPT male/BSPT female/NPT female
  10. Wiring for new oil pressure gauge and existing idiot light in tach. I want to get all the sending units in place while the engine is on the stand. Here's the VG33 sender that screws into the oil filter housing at the front left of the motor. The metal part looks the same as what I remember being on the side of the L-series block. Are all these fittings 1/8" NPT? I want to use a "T" adapter of some sort and screw an L series sending and use the 510 original black/yellow wire to the dash light. Then off the other side of the T the new sending unit from an after market oil pressure gauge. That way I still have the red warning light in the dash as well as the gauge for checking I have pressure before firing the motor for the first time. Am I missing anything or is it just that easy and choosing the electrical oil pressure gauge I like the most? I am leaning towards an Autometer gauge: https://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105/2634/10002/-1 This will temporarily mount in the radio slot because no radio.
  11. I think scooter is right - Girling, well known manufacturer back in the day and the logo fits too.
  12. rosso

    Powerland 2020!

    Booked our hotel room in Salem - same place as last year - comfy king bed - free breakfast too. No camping on hard ground for me anymore. 🙂
  13. rosso

    72 510 wagon vg30e

    Experimental Engineering makes motor mounts (to use with stock 510 mounts), a transmission crossmember and oil pan. That will get the motor in the car. They also have misc good stuff - tension control rod kit, idler arm kit, and headers. They make really nice stuff. You can PM me and I will try to answer any questions since EE is a one person shop and it is very difficult to get a hold of them. I am only doing this to help them out since he has been a friend for almost 20 years (and I am using his parts on my VG33 swap into my '72 510 wagon).
  14. 1034 Bulbs - Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Basic-Miniature-Contains-Bulbs/dp/B000G76QBO $4.41 for 2 and free shipping
  15. I agree the rust is mostly surface stuff - so are you suggesting: 1. Sand/grind rust down to bare metal - no pits left - all smooth bare metal 2. Etching primer (no fillers needed?) 3. Color coats I am not a body/paint person so I am trying things that I can do easily. Every how to paint video I have seen has multiple coats of toxic filler/bondo and tons of sanding/blocking and dust. Just asking about easiest/simplest.
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