Jump to content


Senior Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

235 Excellent

About rosso

  • Rank
    not a newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Angeles, WA
  • Cars
    '72 510 Wagon
  • Interests
    Strawbale sustainable housing
    Photography, Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

1,989 profile views
  1. Moderators - please make this link a sticky and permanently archive the actual page. Thanks for the link Draker!
  2. Yes, T3 has some great stuff - I bought their weld on coilover kit which is a really slick deal. My wagon will never be as pristine as yours, but I expect it will be just as fun! I am now aiming to have it done for Powerland 2021. How you doing on smoke - today was the first day we had blue skies here on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington.
  3. Hey Mr B, Is this a kit for 280ZX struts - and will it fit under 14" 280ZX 6-spoke wheels? If yes, what kit is it and is it still available? I am not happy with the stock 280zx calipers and struts but already have the t3 coilover kit installed on the zx struts - so can't afford to do much except try to find a caliper replacement something. Your cars are looking great - as usual.
  4. Whew, thanks Mike. So it looks like I can connect the BW wire from the ignition switch to the + terminal of coil, then run a new wire from the - terminal of the coil to the distributor. Does that sound right. I posted this question about wires on my project page if you had not seen it. ('72 510 Goon - Prova ) <big sigh of relief>
  5. Thanks DMike, I have an MSD Blaster high vibration coil and MSD said I did not need a ballast resistor with the electronic dizzy. Here are the specs for the coil does that all look okay? Emission Code 1 Inductance 8 mH Maximum Voltage 45,000 Volts Peak Current 140 mA Primary Resistance .7 OHMs Product Type Ignition Coils Secondary Resistance 4.5K OHMs Spark duration 350 uS Turns Ratio 100:1
  6. I will be removing the ballast resistor in my 510 VG33 conversion project since I am using a carburetor and Saudi electronic distributor. I also have an epoxy filled coil. What is the purpose of the ballast resistor? What exactly did it do? Just trying to understand so I make sure I don't damage anything in the VG.
  7. I decided to not use an MSD box partly because of shortage of funds (due to covid loss of work) I now want to run just a simple coil. I have a Saudi distributor for a VG33 carb engine and I want to wire it directly to the coil. The '72 wiring diagram has a BW wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor: Since I do not need the resistor with the electronic distributor am I correct I can run the BW directly to the +coil terminal? Here are the wires in the oil area: So I use the BW and the rest of them are un-needed? (they are for the relay and 2nd set of stock '72 points) Then I just need to run a new wire from -coil terminal to dizzy? Here are the two wires at the dizzy: If I open up the distributor what am I looking for to identify the correct wire to connect the coil? This would certainly be a simple wiring project and free up a couple hundred dollars I need for a Holley 2bbl carb. Thanks to all the electric members who have been so helpful so far. 🙂
  8. Great idea to drill holes over the concrete control joint. I am always looking for a block of wood to use.
  9. rosso

    Horn Wiring

    Still confused? I am not an expert, but here is what I did; Remove your horn and jumper the two contact terminals to your battery + and - (or get two long wires). If the horn works, put the solid green large wire cut off in your image to the + side you found. Unless you have a two-tone horn, the other terminal should be a ground. That's all you need. If the horn does not work when you jumper it, switch the terminal connect and try it. If it works, then use the new + terminal as above. If you want to double or triple check - you can try grounding the bracket (negative terminal on your battery and then jumper each contact to find out which one works, or if they both work. Sounds more complicated than when you actually do this. From the looks of your bracket there is a white wire connected to it with the large nut. This would indicate that it is a ground and possible would get plugged into the second terminal. Not sure if in the UK ground wires are white - here in US it's black. Also not sure if your horns are original or aftemarket. All the Datsun horns I have ever seen only need the one solid green wire to work with a ground. PM me if you want to talk about any other wires. I have not found UK wiring diagram anywhere - if you have one, please post it so someone here might be able to help more. We do have lots of electrical experts who have helped me immensely to get my VG33 conversion wired. good luck.
  10. I forgot to agree on your previous post that citrus cleaners are great - I use it for getting almost anything sticky/gooey off anything. And most of them are non-toxic.
  11. rosso

    pic of your dime

    Wow ! Cool Club you got there. Great get together. I would love to join in - but I am too far away.🙃
  12. Are you sure that at your house you don't have 48 hours in a day? Again, wow, great progress - and I really like the new wheels.
  13. rosso

    Horn Wiring

    My '72 510 wagon has one electrical connection to each horn. Two green wires on right horn and one green wire to left horn. Grounded through the bracket.
  14. Wow - bummer, sorry to hear that, and you were making such great progress. When I do my fuel pump install and gas tank draining, I will check for any rubber cap like that - thanks for the heads up. I liked your post as a thanks for posting, not what happened. ☚ī¸
  15. Thanks Mike, I like the wheels too, And I got them at Powereland last year for $100.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.