'72 510 Goon - Prova - because it will be a test

[Lockleaf]

Under the intake manifold is a water junction and a water hose.  If these haven't been replaced, i would do those as maintenance.  Only way to do them is with the manifold off.

 

Coming along nicely!

[rosso]

On 1/23/2019 at 2:03 PM, Lockleaf said:

Under the intake manifold is a water junction and a water hose.  If these haven't been replaced, i would do those as maintenance.  Only way to do them is with the manifold off.

 

Coming along nicely!

After all the efi stuff is taken off for the carb manifold to be installed - there looks to be only one water tube.

 

 

I am checking everything out and hopefully will not have any surprise leaks. This is a low mileage motor from Japan, 50-60,000 miles.

 

Thanks for reminding me to keep looking while I have things apart. :-)

 

[vetteguy22]

Just thought I’d see how things were moving along on your project.

Rob

[rosso]

At a crossroads - the front suspension and brakes were much worse than I thought and all needs replacing with finding stock calipers being a problem. So I am rethinking the use of the zx struts and brakes I have and buying a coilover weld on kit from technotoys for $255.  https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/front-weld-coilover-kit-datsun-510

 

It means I have to buy shocks for the zx struts (which need shortening) and eventually larger wheels.

 

What were you doing for front suspension and brakes? I am open for suggestions or help from forum members who might have parts to fit something together.

 

It's been cold and we have had a foot plus of snow so I have not been working on the project at all - so rethinking and decision making by the fire has been the order of the day.

 

 

 

[vetteguy22]

I have a couple sets of stock calipers, or complete510 front set ups if you need. I have 280zx struts and brakes on my driver. On the one I’m building for my wife I also have 280zx struts but went with QA1 coilovers due to the rack and pinion needing more caster than I could do with the stock springs.

i like QA1 and I could get the parts from Summit racing which with the coupon I had brought the cost down to just under $200.

Both of my 280zx set ups are stock length which are slightly shorter than the 510 struts by about an 1” if I’m not mistaken.

Rob

[rosso]

Getting ready to install the motor so pulled all the front suspension, steering, etc off the car because the motor is going in from the bottom. The stock 510 stuff was in worse shape than I thought and was going to require some money to be spent to use it. So since I also have the 280ZX struts and calipers I decided that I would go ahead and swap over.

 

Did a lot of interwebbing to find deals on pads, rotors,  shocks, tie rod ends, etc and have an order ready to go in to rockauto. In the meantime I cleaned, wirebrushed, rust converted and painted the crossmember, lower control arms, and tc rods. Now ready to bolt to the motor along with the transmission and slide under the car.

 

 

Also doing last minute check on anything in the engine compartment that needs attention before the V6 goes in. There are a lot of unmarked wires to sort out still...

 

Now all I need is some 14" or 15"wheels to fit over the ZX brakes.

And I have a set of Western Wheel Superlites 13x5.5 now for sale.

 

Anyone able to help with either of these?

[vetteguy22]

Did you get my email about the zx wheels delivered?

Rob

[rosso]

Once I decided to use the 280ZX struts and brakes that I had, and accept buying new larger wheels, then ordering parts was easy. First to arrive:

 

 

Weld on coilover kit from Techno Toy tuning installed on my 280ZX struts with stock 510 top mounts. This is for a daily driver so no camber plates since I think it would be too harsh. Dave Carroll did the welding of the retaining rings and cutting off the stock spring perches. He did a really nice job. Thanks Dave!!

 

KYB Excel-G shocks and 200# Hypercoil springs. I went with the softer spring because the KYB shock would (probably) not respond well to a higher spring rate. This is a street car.

 

Costs:

T3 kit, $255

Welding, $100

KYB shocks, $72

280ZX struts came with the car as spare parts

510 top strut mounts, came on the car.  🙂

Total: $427

Sold stock 510 struts, $80

Net Costs: $347

 

All I can say is WOW.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 11, 2019 by rosso

[datzenmike]

14 minutes ago, rosso said:

Once I decided to use the 280ZX struts and brakes that I had, and accept buying new larger wheels, then ordering parts was easy. First to arrive:

 

 

Weld on coilover kit from Techno Toy tuning installed on my 280ZX struts with stock 510 top mounts. This is for a daily driver so no camber plates since I think it would be too harsh.

 

 

 

 

Camber plates are mostly a function of how low you go. If you remain at the same height you won't need them but as you go lower and lower the tops of the wheel tip inwards more and more and the only cure is to move the tops of the strut outward with adjusting camber plates.  Harsh has nothing to do with it.

[rosso]

Hey D-Mike,

 

I could have worded that better couldn't I. You're right, camber plates are for, well, camber. No news there and since I don't currently have a problem with camber I chose not to use them or spend any money I don't need to.

 

Just wanted to pre-empt people asking me where the camber plates were on my setup.

 

Some people can accept the extra roughness when they need the camber adjustment. Solid metal plates and all.

 

Cheers

[69datsun510]

Nice bones for a Goon restoration, rust usually eats the crap out of cars of this era.  God speed with your build, time fly's when having fun!

[rosso]

Been off for a month+ working on the garage to studio conversion so no work being done on project until today. Doing a little cleanup under the hood in preparation to put the VG33 in the car. Had a couple of questions about old 510 pieces that can be taken out maybe.

 

pollution control/gas vapor recirc thingie - will this be needed for anything with the VG33 carburated motor? I was planning to leave the hard line and just plug the rubber hose and remove the valve(?) thingie.

 

voltage regulator? Not needed with VG33 alternator but some of the wires from here in the original harness have to get connected somewhere - yes?

 

Horn relay - I need to keep this, correct? No wiring changes, it's just straight 510 stuff.

 

I cleaned the heater hose fittings on the firewall and one horn, replacing the rusted screws with yellow zinc bolts.

 

and one horn to go (the worst one, ugh I hate those screws, rusted solid).

 

 

Anyone have good suggestion for good impact screwdriver? cheap Harbor Freight ones don't work (for me).

 

I still have some 13" wheels to sell (in classified).

[vetteguy22]

Glad to see you’re back at it. Looking good.

[the510keeper]

The horn relay in on the back side of the strut tower facing the fuse box, same screws as the headlight relay. 3 prog plug

 

Coilovers look good

[rosso]

4 hours ago, the510keeper said:

The horn relay in on the back side of the strut tower facing the fuse box, same screws as the headlight relay. 3 prog plug

 

Coilovers look good

Thanks, so what is this thing? I see the two relays on the back of the strut tower but can find nothing in the wiring diagram that indicates this thing with 4 wires going to it.

Blue

Black

Yellow

Blue-White

 

Is there a better wiring diagram that someone has that shows this thing?

Thanks in advance to any helpers! Electrical is not my strong point with cars.

[Crashtd420]

3 minutes ago, rosso said:

Thanks, so what is this thing? I see the two relays on the back of the strut tower but can find nothing in the wiring diagram that indicates this thing with 4 wires going to it.

Blue

Black

Yellow

Blue-White

 

Is there a better wiring diagram that someone has that shows this thing?

Thanks in advance to any helpers! Electrical is not my strong point with cars.

Possibly the electric choke relay.....

 

[Crashtd420]

 

[rosso]

Yahoo - electric choke relay! Thanks - '72/73 only and I will have an electric choke on the Holley 2-barrel on the VG33 (so I connect the blue wire to the new carb's choke?)

 

And I will have to look at the jumper setup for the new alternator to get rid of the external voltage regulator (completely or leave connected and jumper across?)

 

Thanks a bunch!

[Crashtd420]

Yes blue would go to the electric choke....

 

If you eliminate the external regulator, you need to unplug the choke relay, because 12v constant will go to the yellow at the alternator which will keep the choke relay on all the time.... 

 

If you still need it you can cut the yellow at the choke relay and connect it to the white/blue ignition wire.... so choke will be active with ignition on.....

[Crashtd420]

42 minutes ago, rosso said:

 

And I will have to look at the jumper setup for the new alternator to get rid of the external voltage regulator (completely or leave connected and jumper across?)

Missed this.... you want to unplug it....

 

jumper can be done how ever it pleases....

 

Cut plug at wire harness and make connections..

 

Or use an old regulator and just cut the plug off with the wires.... 

Then you have a plug in jumper.... if for some reason you wanted to go backwards you still have the factory plug intact.....

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

as Crashed said find a old volt reg and jumper the wires there and then plug in to engine harness if you running a IR Alternator

[datzenmike]

 

The hard line back to the tank is for the vent. If you seal it, the tank could implode from the pump suction. (I have done this on a 620) This system should be swapped for the later charcoal canister that stores fumes from the tank and also properly vents it. If you leave the pipe open you may get fumes in the cab and a fire in the engine bay could get back to the tank. If you seal it, get a vented tank cap.

[rosso]

Hey D-Mike, I am not familiar with the charcoal canister to which you refer. Perchance you could send a diagram of the setup, a photo, or a link to a later model Datsun that has that system.

 

Most of the 510 restos here and images found on the net show the engine compartment stripped of almost everything that was once attached to the fenders and all the holes filled and painted for the "clean" look. I am not looking to do that, but would like the simplest solution to all the extra stuff I have. Thanks.

[rosso]

Almost done with the garage to studio remodel and have only had 5-10 minutes here and there to work on the wagon. New single car garage is finished and the wagon is in it:

 

 

VG33 is patiently waiting...

 

I did start working on rust removal on the strut towers. Primed and waiting for color and clear.

 

Also had a chance to clean and de-rust the heat connections - once I get the motor in I sure don't want to work back there.

 

 

I am not a body shop guy and have no desire to strip the whole car or engine compartment - so it's piecemeal to take care of rust wherever I am working. It most;ly looks fine from 3 feet away and this is to be a daily driver.

 

Here's my procedure - let me know if you think the rust will come back:

 

Wire brush the rust

2 coats Gempler's Converter - 20 minutres between

48+ hours cure

2 coats grey primer

Light 320 grit sanding

2 coats body color or engine enamel black as above

2 coats clear over body color

 

Any suggestions for improved method/product ?

 

June 1st deadline to finish the studio convertion, then I will have more time to work on the wagon.

[rosso]

Remember the rusted horn I still wanted to refurbish back in April?

 

Well I took a minute here and there and PB blasted the heck out of it, torched it, and got one bolt loose with my Makita impact screwdriver. Wiggled the whole horn and finally got the other screw out. The bracket was toast and I was fortunate that I could pick up a good used horn. 48 hours in vinegar and some brass brushing and it turned out well.

 

This one has an "H" on the trumpet for High and is the passenger side. (DMike you got that one) The driver side has an "L" on it for low I guess (not left as I thought)

 

Then it was replacing the *&%#^ screws with bolts.

 

 

I will put it back in after I do some surface rust remediation in that area.

Not enough time for anything but baby steps.

Edited December 24, 2019 by rosso