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Yup well after more research i went with this setup, i would explain, but ill just show the facts from another buddies setup. I have had a mixture of different clutches over the years ranging from oem to ACT Xtream. i just like to try new things. my current setup with lighten flywheel is failing becuase of Weak Diaphragm.
(taken from 240sxforums 240sxAddict/creator from another forum)

The "white bunny Special" was first created and explained by s14turbose, the "whit bunny" being his 98 S14 turbo SE. KA24's come stock with a 225mm clutch surface area, but using parts from other nissans allows you to run a 240mm clutch, which by logic gives you more tractable area for the clutch to grab onto thus reducing the chance of slippage.

We used the flywheel of a 1993 D21 Pickup(4 cylinder model), which is the standard flywheel to use because it carries the same crank bolt pattern as our cranks but is a 240mm flywheel. I believe any year will work, 87 being a common year people use but to play it safe use the 93 because I just installed one and it fit fine. There is also talk of lightened 240mm flywheels, but I have yet to see any that arent custom made.

Now the pressure plate and clutch disc are varied. We used the stock setup of the afor-mentioned 93 D21, but common clutches used are off the 280Z Turbo, the 300zx Turbo, and the RB series clutches. You can use both aftermarket and stock as long as it is 240mm. But one rumor surrounding this special is the truck and 280Z clutch can hold balls of torque, some saying near 400ft/lbs and they still retain stock pedal feel and longer life than aftermarket clutches. I'm still searching for the answer, but I read it went on Mike Lee's T66 KAT, and it had no problems holding 500rwhp.

One very important point is that the 240mm clutch uses 9bolts to hold the pressure plate onto the flwheel, while your stock uses 6. Be sure to pick some up before you attempt this. Also, you'll have to break the small pin on the crank off to bolt up the fly wheel, as it has no slot for it.

and of course here are the comparision pictures:

this is both setups(225mm and 240mm) set beside each other

example of size difference






White bunny clutch mod 240sx





^^^^^^TAKEN FROM NICO CLUB ^^^^^^^

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Just throwing this out there.....


Oil pan and pickup tube from rear sump KA24DE from a Frontier / Xterra DO NOT fit a rear sump S13/14 KA24DE.


The pans are totally different shapes.


Also, the oil pick up tube on an S13/14 KA24DE goes right up to the front cover, I think it would be very difficult to make the S13 KA a rear sump.

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  • 2 months later...

Instead of creating a new thread, i thought I'd post this in here.


Has anyone tried fitting one of those 4-2-1 headers in a 510? A search on the net comes up with one source but he chopped his header and had the exhaust fabricate the rest. I'd rather not cut and weld, since I can't weld stainless, much less pay someone to do it (as of right now)

Added is a picture of the header for reference




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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Anyone know if obd2 truck ka24e harness is the same as KA24DE off a 98 frontier? I’m lookong at both of them side by side and it looks like the throttle bodies are identical. Having a hard time selling the DE so might use it and sell the E if the harness matches. Stop using car ka in trucks people dammit! ? I kid just no mapped out info like the 240 engine has.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 7 months later...

A good question.


The rods would have to be the same length (or less) to fit without hitting the head. Pin heights would have to be the same. Would also need to know the DE dish volume, I think it's 9cc and the DE combustion chamber volume also 47cc I think.


Nissan has a habit of lengthening rods and shortening the pin heights to fit the same stroke engines.

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Yup for about three months, July/Sept '88, they had a slight dome and were 9 to one.                                                                                                                         

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  • 6 months later...

What a great thread! I have picked up a ka24de, 5spd trans, wiring harness and ECU to swap into a 73 510.

Are there any visual differences between the s13 ka and the s14 ka?  I have placed the ECU to somewhere around 1990-91 so s13 240sx but seller said engine was from an s14 240sx so trying to figure out which one I have before ordering rebuild parts.

The block is a bit rusty but I can't see any serial numbers on it, it is a Japan casting, not Mexico. The engine is pretty grimy but the insides are in good shape, clean cams, good compression.

Thanks, Chris


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Japan and the distributor mean its definitely from a 240sx.  S13 will have 3 bolts on the top of the valve cover. S14 will have 2 and then the third on the very back but lower. There are some other tell tale signs but those cover bolts are pretty straightforward. 


Arguably the S14 intake manifold is better as it doesnt have the butterflys in it... but if your running it stock it shouldn't matter

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I don't see any part # but the ECU number is A11-B54 G11  0823 and from the Jim Wolf page that puts it in 1991

The valve cover is definitely 3 bolts.

The engine rebuild parts for the S13 are a good 20-30% higher than the s14, is there a real difference between the gaskets, seals, timing set and such?

I would like to bump up the power a bit with out spending too much, so far I've found the the thread on swapping the the intake cam for a second exhaust cam, that looks promising. There seems to be a lot of cast flashing in the intake and exhaust runners that can be smoothed out, eliminating the clutch fan for electric, a header if I can find one. Any other mods?

Does anyone know if the stock ECU can be tweaked or would I have to go with a standalone ?




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I got the engine torn down and it looks pretty good,  so far everything is in spec except the valve guides.  I've ordered just about everything I need for the rebuild but not sure about the fuel injectors, stay with the red 270cc or bump it up a bit.

Does anyone know how this little chain oiler is removed, screwed in, pressed in ? It is fairly thin and I'm afraid it will get damaged before I can get it to the machine shop.


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3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I've been looking around but it seems that this OBX unit is the only regular header that is being made for KA engines, does anyone know of any others?



That header doesn't look right... I think its a single cam KA header....

General consensus is that the 4-2-1 headers are the best for the twin cam KA --

like this one 

On my 510 it needed A LOT of massaging...  and it still didnt clear... Had to do quite a bit of hammering to get it to clear the steering box, and then you basically need to cut immediatly after the 2-1 junction and go custom from there.... essentially did NOT fit in my opinion... and my fab skills are/were not enough to make it work.

I ended up running the Megan Racing Shorty header. It supposedly gives up a little power and makes the engine feel kinda flat.. idk the car feels pretty good to me.

They used to make a lower portion as well, but seems like they may have discontinued it. It was usable, but you had to rotate it about 30 degrees. so might as well go custom from there.

The most "bolt in" option is the megan racing in my opinion





Edited by demo243
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