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510revisited

Just another (LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

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   So, a little about me first. My name is Dan. Im a union ironworker in the sf bay. Local 377. 18 years experience. I call north bay home. Ive been a datsun fan going all the way back to the early 90s. My first car was a 78 280z. In total ive had two 280's, a 240, a roadster, a 620, a 720, a 200sx and a 510. Though my heart lies with the sexy curves of the 240's, im drawn to the simple lines and box-y-ness of the 510s. And the go kart like handling.

    Fast forward to now. After twenty years of never sitting in, RARELY seeing one, and sure as hell never driving one; i have purchased, and stabled, a 69 2 door pl510. Like every new father, i have great aspirations for my new baby. It will be a long journey, and im sure a frustrating one at that. In the light of day, and with a cooler head i have already found a few issues i looked over. 

  On to the car. The only reason you guys are reading this. 69 datsun 510. Runs, drives, steers, barely brakes. Has an l20b swap from previous owner, along with a not so good paint job. Its not perfect, needs tlc, but i knew that coming into the deal. Thats actually what i wanted. A project. On the to do list, just to make it decent

-Brake overhaul, or at least a flush and bleeding

- no brake lights diagnosis (hence my other thread)

-carb needs a tune

-gas smell from trunk needs addressing

-throttle needs unsticking

-temp guage needs something

-driver side floor board is swiss cheese (i prefer peperjack)

-4 speed tranny needs an overhaul; car came with an extra 5 speed. Un aware of condition. Being from sf bay, i prefer 5 speed trannys anyways.

- shocks and spring all the way around. 

End goals, turn key, modernized 510. I have a few ideas, but im not mentioning them cause i wanna be the first guy to implement them. Hopefully i can do that. Now onto the main course. PICS. DGrcttG.jpg3fEBXr7.jpgiAJNH8W.jpg

These were the po's pics. Next set are minepY3b0Hz.jpgKTw2FpJ.jpgtaking ownershipT0btUFx.jpgat home8CNZYYe.jpg

Edited by 510revisited
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Pretty clean example really.

 

I just bought a 70 2 door today.. damn near same color too. I'll be looking out for your progress on this one. 

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Dont let the pics fool ya. It has a sh!tty paint job up close, and lots of bondo. However, it appears that it is a solid foundation. I saw yours as well. Looks good too. Maybe we can be twinsies ??????  ?.

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I am about 30 min from you. We should cruise sometime, I also have another friend in Vacaville with a 510 (Red with the graffiti dime)

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6 hours ago, 510revisited said:

T0btUFx.jpg

Nice score!

I'll be watching your build!

 

Also, this shot reminded me of my late night gas stop while picking up my 69

 

IMAG2350_zpsyzm2shyt_edit_1483601400879_

 

Edited by Plusnone
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gas smell is most likely the filler hose.

 

temp gauge... if gas gauge also not working the volt regulator that supplies both isn't working. Check Yellow/White wire is clean and well connected to the sender on the thermostat housing. Ground this wire to the housing, the gauge should read full HOT. If it does the sender is bad, if it doesn't the the wire to the gauge or the gauge itself is bad.  

 

 

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Thank you guys for all the support so far. @datzenmike, i noticed there is no wire hooked up to the fuel sending unit on the tank. Also, there appears to be some kind of glue on the filler neck. I will investigate asap. Again, thanks for all the help and kind words.

One thing i did notice, but failed to mention is the po installed an electric fuel pump for some reason. Again, l20b with a weber 32/36..

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8 hours ago, Plusnone said:

Nice score!

I'll be watching your build!

 

Also, this shot reminded me of my late night gas stop while picking up my 69

 

IMAG2350_zpsyzm2shyt_edit_1483601400879_

 

 

I should have taken a picture of mine... when I was filling up yesterday. Same car hauler too.. lol

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1 hour ago, 510revisited said:

Thank you guys for all the support so far. @datzenmike, i noticed there is no wire hooked up to the fuel sending unit on the tank. Also, there appears to be some kind of glue on the filler neck. I will investigate asap. Again, thanks for all the help and kind words.

One thing i did notice, but failed to mention is the po installed an electric fuel pump for some reason. Again, l20b with a weber 32/36..

 

Look at the filler neck upgrade here on the forums. Allows you to use a modern filler with modern Nissan cap. No mods needed to the car. It's a fantastic upgrade!

 

 

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You might wanna look up the pump and see what psi its rated for.... the weber only needs around 3.5 psi..... 

Even one rated for low psi might be outputting to much.... 

I added small fuel pressure gauge to my fuel line near the carb and found my pressure was too high.. I used a recommended Carter p4070 pump on mine and it put out 6 or 7 psi, i needed to add a  low psi Holley regulator to bring it down to 3.5... 

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9 hours ago, Draker said:

 

Look at the filler neck upgrade here on the forums. Allows you to use a modern filler with modern Nissan cap. No mods needed to the car. It's a fantastic upgrade!

 

 

Sounds like a plan. Anything to rid the smell

8 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

You might wanna look up the pump and see what psi its rated for.... the weber only needs around 3.5 psi..... 

Even one rated for low psi might be outputting to much.... 

I added small fuel pressure gauge to my fuel line near the carb and found my pressure was too high.. I used a recommended Carter p4070 pump on mine and it put out 6 or 7 psi, i needed to add a  low psi Holley regulator to bring it down to 3.5... 

How would it act if it had too much pressure? Like it was flooded?

   On a different note, i took the advice of others in another thread i posted about my tail lights 

and checked continuity on all the fuses. I found the bottom left fuse to be dead, though it appeared good. So i replaced it with an equally rated fuse and still had no lights. Well after that, i went to pop the trunk and test the wires, but for some reason saw the fuse wasnt perfectly lined up in the clips, so i straightened it up. Low and behold, I HAVE BRAKE LIGHTS!!!! My first victory. Thanks for all the help. If yall hadn't made the suggestion to actually check ida been deep into the dashboard trying to figure out what was what. Still no horn though. Does anyone have a good pic of a 69 fusebox so i can figure out what fuse is what and what amperage?

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2 hours ago, 510revisited said:

 

How would it act if it had too much pressure? Like it was flooded?

 

Yes.... gets richer than it should... it would run but fouled my plugs kind of quick..... I originally though it was the jetting till I realized the pressure was to high, it made a big difference in how the carb acted ....

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12 hours ago, Draker said:

 

Look at the filler neck upgrade here on the forums. Allows you to use a modern filler with modern Nissan cap. No mods needed to the car. It's a fantastic upgrade!

 

 

Are you talking about this one

 

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That's the one! 

 

The neck is the key, hose is pretty generic size.

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Ya, that looks pretty cool. Im gonna try and make it to the local pick and pull this weekend. I plan to reorganize my garage this weekend and maybe bleed the brakes. And this mod if i find the part. Im still wondering if someone can take a pic of there fuse panel so i can figure out which fufe is what in amps. I wanna make sure they are all right.. im not sure, but im under the impression the 68 & 69 are different from the 70-73... please help!!!!

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Here's a 69 Fuse box and you can just make out the amps on the cover. 

 

29712102817_cb3dc1cdd0.jpg

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@ paradime, thanks for the pic. Ya i can JUST make out the numbers. Not to be a pain, but can you get a pic of the wording too. Im in need of which fuse is which circuit.. or even just writing it would be awesome too. I see it as:

20a-?                               10a-light l

10a-w (wiper motor?)   10a-light r

20a-fl (flashers?)           20a-?

20a-horn.                        20a-common

Again, thanks for helping out a newb, you guys have been super awesome and patient. 

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The last 69 510 I owned was in 86. I got this pict off a google search, but you got the fuse amps right. Here's a wiring diagram that should confirm the rest.

 

44620514812_ec11013ac4_z.jpg

 

Best of luck.

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Thanks. Ive been studying that diagram, just wasnt sure it was for a 69. Thats good to know. So i went ahead and officially put some money into the car. 15 bucks on fuses and carb cleaner.  Replaced all the fuses; went to start the car and.... dead battery. ??

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Ok, so a small update. I had an all day play date with the dime. I started by going to the junkyard and pulling the filler neck off a mazda pu. Ordered the fuel filler hose, got the 5/8 hose, clamps, the hole stretcher ? and a few other tools for later play dates.

    This car seems to have been fed after midnite, due to all the gremlins. Ill break them down. As of p.o., no horn, no fuel guage (will explain in a sec) no temp guage, no reverse lights, and the "ign" idiot light has a mind of its own keep in mind i have the electronic dizzy, so ie.. no points. Bacwards (maybe) wiring on the alternator.

   As of me tinkering on it, no e flashers, no wipers and no signals which did work, sometimes. I started out trying to figure the no horn issue and have come to the conclusion (thanks datzen mike for explaining the horn switch) that i have the wrong steering wheel. Reason being, one: the nut was fairly easy to undo and the wheel popped right off and two: the brass contact doesnt contact any metal on the back side of the steering wheel. Instead rides on a black platic ring. One thing to add is the horn armature was very loose when i pulled everything apart. here is a pic of the wheel that was on the car when i bought it. WEAR MARK IS OLD AND RUSTY, NOT FROM MY USE/CAR.

ezTMabT.jpg ignore the notches. Nothing to see there, keep moving please (i thought i could break it off). The p.o. gave me another steering wheel, but when i installed it i noticed the armature pops over the little phillips headed screws making a funny noise. I cant see nissan doing that from factory. Plus you can see the old wear mark. Here is the other wheel. Ill add the switch pic here tooVc0a6ux.jpg

WEz4iCx.jpg

Here are the seperate pads for said wheels. This is the second wheel, or "spare wheel button"gi9r6dD.jpg

This is the "installed" horn button hTJiOoy.jpg

I tried flip flopping around the rings, but cant find the proper size screw for the horn buttons..

      Now onto the other problems. In the midst of figuring out my horn, and because the wheel was off i figured id try and figure out my no gauge problems. So i took the guage cluster out. I ran a continuity test on the cluster, and wires for the fuel guage (cant remember doing it on the temp guage cluster end. I did on the opposite end at the sending unit side which had continuity). Pulled the fuel guage out and checked to see if the resistance changed when the needle moved. It did, so i figured it was ok. Reinstalled everything and still nothing worked. Removed it again to check something else and managed to short out the circuit board against my keys. I know rookie mistake. Im still face palming. Good thing is i had a spare guage cluster from p.o.. i installed that and now i have a fuel guage. Not sure of temp cause i didnt let the car run enough to warm up. Go figure right? I did find this in all my searching though. A coiled up red w/blue striped wire... any ideas? For the non existant voltage regulator on the back side of the guage clusters? Here is the picsccToSf.jpg

      I need to also say i poked around the alternator and figured out either my wires are backwards or the diagram is. Diagram says white black wire should go to l, not s. tested for a charge and the alternator is not charging the battery.  Im not even sure if i have a v.r. for the alternator.

tgCrfY9.jpg

 

 Before i summarize and leave, i must say i went to hook up the battery to charge it, and hooked it up backwards. Pos to neg, neg to pos. Again i know, rookie mistake. In all honesty i had the black hooked up, and barely touched the opposite side for a millisecond. Enough for a small spark and to make me realize my idiocy. I fixed the leads, charged the battery and everything seemed fine. Car still ran, nothing seemed to change.

     Now to summarize. From p.o., no horn, no guages, no brake lights, intermittent wipers, intermittent flashers. As of me. No wipers, no flashers, no signals. I found a dead fuse and fixed the brake lights. My questions are could the electronic dizzy wiring cause these gremlins, i.e. the ign light with a mind of its own? Could the lack of v.r. on the guage cluster be a problem, though now my fuel level seems to work? Could the backwards wiring on the alt be an issue as well? And the biggest of all, how can i test the relays, and flashers for the emergency and turn signals, or for that matter all flashers and relays? Im sorry this is long winded, but any and all help is truly appreciated. Im basically trying to work out gremlins so i can make it driveable. 

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