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510revisited

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About 510revisited

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • Location
    vacaville
  • Cars
    72 5&dime
  • Interests
    Datsuns

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  1. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    So i havent got an answer yet. I was curious if the wires on my alternator are backwards at the "t" connection. Or is the diagram wrong. If so ill switch them round. Wb wire goes into "s" terminal diagram says its yellow into "s"
  2. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    So your response got me to thinking lock leaf. I had a 72 dime right out of high school ('97) and lime every kid, wired all sorts of sh!t onto it, POSITIVE SWITCHED, and screwed up something which caused it to not be able to start the car with a key. I had to jump the starter solenoid. Fast forward 20 years. Previous owner, or whomever, wired an electric fuel pump to the ignition wire... just wrapped it around a stripped section (like 1997). There is an ir alternator (i believe) which isnt charging the battery. I have an extra (from po) mechanical fuel pump. Gonna try getting rid of the e pump and see if SOME problems fix themselves..then move onto the alternator. po also did electric dizzy. Gonna check that... again thanks lock leaf. Btw i had no clue ground switching was a thing.
  3. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Ok, so a small update. I had an all day play date with the dime. I started by going to the junkyard and pulling the filler neck off a mazda pu. Ordered the fuel filler hose, got the 5/8 hose, clamps, the hole stretcher 🤣 and a few other tools for later play dates. This car seems to have been fed after midnite, due to all the gremlins. Ill break them down. As of p.o., no horn, no fuel guage (will explain in a sec) no temp guage, no reverse lights, and the "ign" idiot light has a mind of its own keep in mind i have the electronic dizzy, so ie.. no points. Bacwards (maybe) wiring on the alternator. As of me tinkering on it, no e flashers, no wipers and no signals which did work, sometimes. I started out trying to figure the no horn issue and have come to the conclusion (thanks datzen mike for explaining the horn switch) that i have the wrong steering wheel. Reason being, one: the nut was fairly easy to undo and the wheel popped right off and two: the brass contact doesnt contact any metal on the back side of the steering wheel. Instead rides on a black platic ring. One thing to add is the horn armature was very loose when i pulled everything apart. here is a pic of the wheel that was on the car when i bought it. WEAR MARK IS OLD AND RUSTY, NOT FROM MY USE/CAR. ignore the notches. Nothing to see there, keep moving please (i thought i could break it off). The p.o. gave me another steering wheel, but when i installed it i noticed the armature pops over the little phillips headed screws making a funny noise. I cant see nissan doing that from factory. Plus you can see the old wear mark. Here is the other wheel. Ill add the switch pic here too Here are the seperate pads for said wheels. This is the second wheel, or "spare wheel button" This is the "installed" horn button I tried flip flopping around the rings, but cant find the proper size screw for the horn buttons.. Now onto the other problems. In the midst of figuring out my horn, and because the wheel was off i figured id try and figure out my no gauge problems. So i took the guage cluster out. I ran a continuity test on the cluster, and wires for the fuel guage (cant remember doing it on the temp guage cluster end. I did on the opposite end at the sending unit side which had continuity). Pulled the fuel guage out and checked to see if the resistance changed when the needle moved. It did, so i figured it was ok. Reinstalled everything and still nothing worked. Removed it again to check something else and managed to short out the circuit board against my keys. I know rookie mistake. Im still face palming. Good thing is i had a spare guage cluster from p.o.. i installed that and now i have a fuel guage. Not sure of temp cause i didnt let the car run enough to warm up. Go figure right? I did find this in all my searching though. A coiled up red w/blue striped wire... any ideas? For the non existant voltage regulator on the back side of the guage clusters? Here is the pic I need to also say i poked around the alternator and figured out either my wires are backwards or the diagram is. Diagram says white black wire should go to l, not s. tested for a charge and the alternator is not charging the battery. Im not even sure if i have a v.r. for the alternator. Before i summarize and leave, i must say i went to hook up the battery to charge it, and hooked it up backwards. Pos to neg, neg to pos. Again i know, rookie mistake. In all honesty i had the black hooked up, and barely touched the opposite side for a millisecond. Enough for a small spark and to make me realize my idiocy. I fixed the leads, charged the battery and everything seemed fine. Car still ran, nothing seemed to change. Now to summarize. From p.o., no horn, no guages, no brake lights, intermittent wipers, intermittent flashers. As of me. No wipers, no flashers, no signals. I found a dead fuse and fixed the brake lights. My questions are could the electronic dizzy wiring cause these gremlins, i.e. the ign light with a mind of its own? Could the lack of v.r. on the guage cluster be a problem, though now my fuel level seems to work? Could the backwards wiring on the alt be an issue as well? And the biggest of all, how can i test the relays, and flashers for the emergency and turn signals, or for that matter all flashers and relays? Im sorry this is long winded, but any and all help is truly appreciated. Im basically trying to work out gremlins so i can make it driveable.
  4. 510revisited

    Bad gauge cluster voltage regulator? Easy $2 fix.

    So, not to beat a dead datsun, mike is right. The pics dont work. Im experiencing the same issues. Does anyone have any pics they could provideto help a feller out?
  5. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Thanks. Ive been studying that diagram, just wasnt sure it was for a 69. Thats good to know. So i went ahead and officially put some money into the car. 15 bucks on fuses and carb cleaner. Replaced all the fuses; went to start the car and.... dead battery. 😤😭
  6. 510revisited

    Tail light bulbs.

    @ datzenmike, thank you. That gives me somewhere to start. I appreciate the help. Now i just need to stop being lazy and dig apart the column.
  7. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    @ paradime, thanks for the pic. Ya i can JUST make out the numbers. Not to be a pain, but can you get a pic of the wording too. Im in need of which fuse is which circuit.. or even just writing it would be awesome too. I see it as: 20a-? 10a-light l 10a-w (wiper motor?) 10a-light r 20a-fl (flashers?) 20a-? 20a-horn. 20a-common Again, thanks for helping out a newb, you guys have been super awesome and patient.
  8. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Ya, that looks pretty cool. Im gonna try and make it to the local pick and pull this weekend. I plan to reorganize my garage this weekend and maybe bleed the brakes. And this mod if i find the part. Im still wondering if someone can take a pic of there fuse panel so i can figure out which fufe is what in amps. I wanna make sure they are all right.. im not sure, but im under the impression the 68 & 69 are different from the 70-73... please help!!!!
  9. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Are you talking about this one
  10. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Sounds like a plan. Anything to rid the smell How would it act if it had too much pressure? Like it was flooded? On a different note, i took the advice of others in another thread i posted about my tail lights and checked continuity on all the fuses. I found the bottom left fuse to be dead, though it appeared good. So i replaced it with an equally rated fuse and still had no lights. Well after that, i went to pop the trunk and test the wires, but for some reason saw the fuse wasnt perfectly lined up in the clips, so i straightened it up. Low and behold, I HAVE BRAKE LIGHTS!!!! My first victory. Thanks for all the help. If yall hadn't made the suggestion to actually check ida been deep into the dashboard trying to figure out what was what. Still no horn though. Does anyone have a good pic of a 69 fusebox so i can figure out what fuse is what and what amperage?
  11. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Thank you guys for all the support so far. @datzenmike, i noticed there is no wire hooked up to the fuel sending unit on the tank. Also, there appears to be some kind of glue on the filler neck. I will investigate asap. Again, thanks for all the help and kind words. One thing i did notice, but failed to mention is the po installed an electric fuel pump for some reason. Again, l20b with a weber 32/36..
  12. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Thank you. Cant wait to get it road worthy.
  13. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Pmd you five1oh
  14. 510revisited

    Tail light bulbs.

    Thats a good point. What about a wire under the horn button though. Shouldnt there be something, other than just the svrewed down metal ring
  15. 510revisited

    Just another(LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

    Dont let the pics fool ya. It has a sh!tty paint job up close, and lots of bondo. However, it appears that it is a solid foundation. I saw yours as well. Looks good too. Maybe we can be twinsies 😂😂😂😂😂😂 😒.
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