Ok, so a small update. I had an all day play date with the dime. I started by going to the junkyard and pulling the filler neck off a mazda pu. Ordered the fuel filler hose, got the 5/8 hose, clamps, the hole stretcher 🤣 and a few other tools for later play dates.
This car seems to have been fed after midnite, due to all the gremlins. Ill break them down. As of p.o., no horn, no fuel guage (will explain in a sec) no temp guage, no reverse lights, and the "ign" idiot light has a mind of its own keep in mind i have the electronic dizzy, so ie.. no points. Bacwards (maybe) wiring on the alternator.
As of me tinkering on it, no e flashers, no wipers and no signals which did work, sometimes. I started out trying to figure the no horn issue and have come to the conclusion (thanks datzen mike for explaining the horn switch) that i have the wrong steering wheel. Reason being, one: the nut was fairly easy to undo and the wheel popped right off and two: the brass contact doesnt contact any metal on the back side of the steering wheel. Instead rides on a black platic ring. One thing to add is the horn armature was very loose when i pulled everything apart. here is a pic of the wheel that was on the car when i bought it. WEAR MARK IS OLD AND RUSTY, NOT FROM MY USE/CAR.
ignore the notches. Nothing to see there, keep moving please (i thought i could break it off). The p.o. gave me another steering wheel, but when i installed it i noticed the armature pops over the little phillips headed screws making a funny noise. I cant see nissan doing that from factory. Plus you can see the old wear mark. Here is the other wheel. Ill add the switch pic here too
Here are the seperate pads for said wheels. This is the second wheel, or "spare wheel button"
This is the "installed" horn button
I tried flip flopping around the rings, but cant find the proper size screw for the horn buttons..
Now onto the other problems. In the midst of figuring out my horn, and because the wheel was off i figured id try and figure out my no gauge problems. So i took the guage cluster out. I ran a continuity test on the cluster, and wires for the fuel guage (cant remember doing it on the temp guage cluster end. I did on the opposite end at the sending unit side which had continuity). Pulled the fuel guage out and checked to see if the resistance changed when the needle moved. It did, so i figured it was ok. Reinstalled everything and still nothing worked. Removed it again to check something else and managed to short out the circuit board against my keys. I know rookie mistake. Im still face palming. Good thing is i had a spare guage cluster from p.o.. i installed that and now i have a fuel guage. Not sure of temp cause i didnt let the car run enough to warm up. Go figure right? I did find this in all my searching though. A coiled up red w/blue striped wire... any ideas? For the non existant voltage regulator on the back side of the guage clusters? Here is the pic
I need to also say i poked around the alternator and figured out either my wires are backwards or the diagram is. Diagram says white black wire should go to l, not s. tested for a charge and the alternator is not charging the battery. Im not even sure if i have a v.r. for the alternator.
Before i summarize and leave, i must say i went to hook up the battery to charge it, and hooked it up backwards. Pos to neg, neg to pos. Again i know, rookie mistake. In all honesty i had the black hooked up, and barely touched the opposite side for a millisecond. Enough for a small spark and to make me realize my idiocy. I fixed the leads, charged the battery and everything seemed fine. Car still ran, nothing seemed to change.
Now to summarize. From p.o., no horn, no guages, no brake lights, intermittent wipers, intermittent flashers. As of me. No wipers, no flashers, no signals. I found a dead fuse and fixed the brake lights. My questions are could the electronic dizzy wiring cause these gremlins, i.e. the ign light with a mind of its own? Could the lack of v.r. on the guage cluster be a problem, though now my fuel level seems to work? Could the backwards wiring on the alt be an issue as well? And the biggest of all, how can i test the relays, and flashers for the emergency and turn signals, or for that matter all flashers and relays? Im sorry this is long winded, but any and all help is truly appreciated. Im basically trying to work out gremlins so i can make it driveable.