Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

52 Good

About 510revisited

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars
    72 5&dime
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

1,156 profile views
  1. Im running, according to the p.o., a truck l20b. I have verified its an l20b, just not sure about the truck part. I emailed holley prior to purchase and they said it should work (of course). There is a guy on YouTube putting one on a late 70s corrolla with a four banger. Apparently they will handle from 90-300ish bhp.
  2. I guess where there's a will there's a way. Or maybe just luck. Turns out if you dont need a super duper fine finish, wood bits drill aluminum. I got this done in the past two days. Gotta smooth out the runner, and shape the edges. The tb is 6×5 ish... heres some decent pics. Its getting there. Warning, lots of pics
  3. May have found a solution to the counterbore problem. I was channel surfing on YouTube and came across a guy who drilled a hole with a wood paddle bit, and a "forstner" bit into a chunk of aluminum. That lead me into more surfing, and eventually this i have some spare chunks of aluminum to practice on, so maybe by this weekend i may have an adapter. Finally. If anyone has advice on this let me know. Just for the record though, it doesnt have to be an extremely precise hole.
  4. So the end mill is a 16mm diameter shank, and 16mm cutting edge as well. Drill press opens up to a 1/2 inch. Some one at work suggested a step drill. I thought about cutting the bit to the appropriate size (picture cutting off the top of a xmas tree) and seeing how that would work. I found a shop local to me, but they close at 330 and i dont get into town from my commute til 400. #1stworldproblems 😭
  5. So ive run into a problem. Hopefully some of you guys who are reading this (not many, judging by my lack of responses) can help. I bought a counterboring end mill bit to use on my adapter plate. However the shank is to big for the chuck on the press. Im at a loss of what to do. Is there an adapter i dont know about? Order a new chuck that goes that big, which in itself is a hassle. I know the serial number and model number of the press, but dont really know what im looking for. Any and all help is appreciated..
  6. Got this done yesterday and today. This is my first time bending tube. Learned it takes patience... this was my first try piece to. Kinked it a wee bit, but i think it'll be fine. If not, im sure someone will chime in. This whole setup reminds me of mad max... After successfully completing this, i moved onto drilling the adapter plate for the throttle body. All four bolt holes line up. 🤣 I need to bring home some layout tools from work so i can start carving the hole out. Im trying to be as precise as possible.
  7. Update: still waiting on parts. Specifically more AN fittings, clamps for the fuel pump, and some other misc. bits. I mounted the pre filter today. Felt very anxious about drilling into an almost 60 year old car. But got the clamp mounted. Here are pics of the location. gonna mount the pump with two clamps that are the same as the one in the previous picture. I will mount them on isolators too so as to reduce as much vibration as possible. All clamps and hardware are stainless. This is all underneath the rear passengers butt. Heres a mock up of the efi with the uncut aluminum plate... This is my layout to shave the aluminum. The yellow curve is the hole at the top of the plate. The blue curve is where the adapter bolts to the manifold. My progress is slow, which i solely blame on amazon, and myself. More to come...
  8. Ok, so im waiting on a block of aluminum, 6x6x5/8 so i can make an adapter. Ill show my progress on that later. Right now, these are my plans. Mount the pre fuel filter and fuel pump. I plan to use 3/8 od aluminum fuel line. Reasons being they wont rust, and easier to bend. Ive never done fuel line so im all ears. I plan to just swedge the ends to accept the rubber fuel line where needed. Ive worked out, more or less, where i will mount the parts. Here are a few pics. Where the pre filter will go..rubber from tank to hard line through body to rubber to filter. If that makes any sense. I plan to mount something that will support the lines as they pass thru the body holes so they wont rub anything. From pre filter: rubber to hard line to rubber to pump. From pump, to engine bay, all new hard line (assures its completely clean, plus the lines are old. I may sell them cause they do appear good though). This is where i plan to fit the pump Im assuming this is where the rear passengers calves rest more or less. Someone correct me if im wrong. The system requires a return line, so i will make an all new return line as well. I havent guite worked out the routing in the engine bay. Im thinking of maybe some sort of bulkhead fittings, though im still all ears. I do plan to use something like this to mount the filter under the car. I plan to build some sort of shield for both the pre filter and pump, while still allowing for good air flow around the pump... and Holley said it was easy bolt on. Liars!!! Im hoping to get a start on things this next weekend. Im dying to drive this bitch again.
  9. Perfect. Thanks tedman. Next time ill take pics.
  10. In my infinite wisdom I forgot to take pics, and note which line was what when i removed my fuel tank. I noticed on the tank it had two lines coming out the bottom. One is big, the other small (obviously) which one is the feed line? Im assuming the big one..
  11. Sooooo, for those in the know, does anyone see any reason, for or against, as to removing the bridge in between the two inlet holes on the INTAKE MANIFOLD. I.e. the holes under the carb, or tb in my case. Not for hp, just for less obstructions. My adapter for the weber has no bridge. I just want continuity. As an afterthought, any issue with making it a true oval. The tbs hole diameters are identical
  12. So i started my preliminary fit up. Out with the old, in with the new. I will have to make an adapter for sure, but it seams to fit nicely.. again, all preliminary...
  13. Well, i went ahead and bought another cap (aluminum contacts inside, again) and that solved nothing. Replaced fuel pump with a new one, nothing. Still has a misfire. Decided to pull the dizzy and replace the matchbox with a new one i had laying around. Now no spark at all. Either a bad match box or i wired it wrong. On that note, any one have a pic of which wire goes where? The wires from the matchbox that go into the dizzy, NOT from matchbox to coil. Could too high of fuel pressure cause a misfire? I hooked up the guage on the new pump and at higher rpms it shows around 4-5 ish. I think someone mentioned 3 ish is best.
  14. Ive always been one to clean my rotor, and cap, and plugs. Poor mans tune up! I did notice the cap had build up on the inside on the little metal parts (i dont know their technical name). I even thought that it was maybe a bit to soon for that much build up. Wasnt a whole lot, but too much too soon.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.