datzenmike Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 So you have a 225mm flywheel and PP but a 200mm clutch disc??????? WTF??? Why 200mm should be a 225mm disc. Early engagement could be wrong release bearing collar. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 6 minutes ago, datzenmike said: So you have a 225mm flywheel and PP but a 200mm clutch disc??????? WTF??? Why 200mm should be a 225mm disc. Early engagement could be wrong release bearing collar. Are you and 420 hanging out together mike??? Just razzing ya. ???? Umm as far as i know its all 225mm. Flywheel from a non turbo zx and clutch kit for a 240z. Maybe im wrong, but i did test fit the whole assembly before i installed it and the clutch fit on the flywheel correctly (meaning the diameters matched) along with said pp. My original concern was the t.o. collar. But since it actually worked i thought all was good. Maybe just a little adjusting.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 ha ha no I just wandered in. Yes it will bolt together but this... . Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Wander in anytime mike. Ive been a lurker on these forums for years, and anytime i look up an issue your name pops up somehow. Ill take any and all advice you are willing to throw my way. Hell if you live anywhere close to san Francisco ill pay you in trident layers to fix this damn car.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 This... ...is a 200mm clutch disc. It's not the correct size for a 225mm clutch assembly. Is this the one that came in the kit? 240/260 280z should be 225mm If the release collar is for a 200mm clutch from a car then it won't work properly with a 225mm PP. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 So i just re read my post. Ya, i see the confusion. Maybe i should lay off the 420!!! To clarify. I installed this And this With this collar which was in the tranny when i pulled it apart Hope this clarifies. It all works, its just engages super quick. Pedal only needs to move a half millimeter to engage (over exaggeration obviously) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Ya I had it tested.... tested fine... It was a stock 35amp, I though maybe I had to many electronics running, so I went to a 50 amp with the external reg from a 510... no difference... changed the regulator didn't help..... finally ended where I shouldn't have started, wiring always stayed the same, except when I added the jumper .. no idea why, but going to externally regulated solved my issue.... Not sure what else to say about your altenator situation, only other possibility is ground... is the alternator grounded beyond just the bolts? I look forward to see what modifications you have in mind..... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 I have not traced these wires to there other ends, but they go into a splice with another black wire if memory serves me correct at this moment. They do head in the direction of the front of the car. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 8 hours ago, 510revisited said: With this collar which was in the tranny when i pulled it apart Hope this clarifies. It all works, its just engages super quick. Pedal only needs to move a half millimeter to engage (over exaggeration obviously) OK so what flywheel was on it before? Because that collar with the bearing was mated to it. I'm saying that if the original clutch was a 200mm you now have a 225mm and it won't work well with it. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 12 hours ago, datzenmike said: OK so what flywheel was on it before? Because that collar with the bearing was mated to it. I'm saying that if the original clutch was a 200mm you now have a 225mm and it won't work well with it. 200mm flywheel and pressure plate were in the car when i took it apart. damn do i have to tear this damn thing apart again???? Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) I can build bridges but obviously not cars. Same problem. Battery not being charged when headlights are on. I just replaced the alt with a ka24e alt. Checked voltage at the alternator battery output while running. 13.7 ish. Revd and at idle. Checked voltage at battery itself, same. With the lights on it drops to 12.5 revd and idle, at battery. I have tested continuity for every wire coming of the alt. EVERYTHING checks out. The ONLY thing i can figure out, or make a reasonable (in my head) assumption is the electric fuel pump draws too much power. There are no other loads on the electrical system that aren't factory. Theres not even a radio. Just the antenna. Thoughts, ideas? Like always thanks in advance Edited December 9, 2018 by 510revisited Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 I wish I had more to say to you, I feel like I'm reading my own post about the same issue.... I went through all the same things your saying..... I'm running a 60amp and I can turn my head lights and heater on, as well as I added an electric fuel pump and 2 electric fans... doesnt drop anymore.... It has to be something to do with the sense wire.... the alternator is just not kicking up when the power demand is there.... it should stay close to 14 and it should not drop .... I still suspect something with the t or the jumper made to convert to internal regulated.. Try Disconnecting the t connector and just run a 12volt lead with a fuse (just incase) straight from battery to the sense lead on the alternator... even try running a new battery cable straight from the battery to altenator output... bypassing the connection through the starter And see if it stabilizes..... This would tell you if it's the car wiring or not.... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 28 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Try Disconnecting the t connector and just run a 12volt lead with a fuse (just incase) straight from battery to the sense lead on the alternator... even try running a new battery cable straight from the battery to altenator output... bypassing the connection through the starter And see if it stabilizes..... This would tell you if it's the car wiring or not.... I thought about doing this. Wasnt sure if it was a good idea or not. Though i remember in my old 1980 nissan 4x4 the wire went straight from the alt to the bat. Ask me how i know, it involves a mailbox. Well, at least in THAT truck. Ill give it a shot. The worst thing that could happen is ill burn the house down.. any suggestion on wire guage? Fuse amperage? Thanks for your help crash Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 Swap the two wires in the plastic plug. I had my KA alternator backwards for years and didn't know it until I put a volt gauge in. Three years and thousands of miles and no problem. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 The one to the sense could be something like 12 or 14 gauge... maybe a 20amp fuse.... And i would do 8 gauge to the battery.... This would be temporary.... all it's doing is bypassing the car wiring to determine where the problem is... should not cause any problems.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 9, 2018 Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 2 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Swap the two wires in the plastic plug. I had my KA alternator backwards for years and didn't know it until I put a volt gauge in. Three years and thousands of miles and no problem. I mentioned that before too... 1 Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2018 Mike, ive done that. Switched the wiring around to make sure that would/wouldnt be the problem. Nothing changed. Crash, headed to oreillys right now to return the ka alternator because obviously thats not the issue. I do believe its a wiring issue as well. Maybe ill make the bypass a temporary/permanent thing. I do know that the wire that goes to the dash light is good. I touched it to the battery while my girlfriend watched the light come on and off. Has to be either the other small wire, ground or battery output wire... thanks for your help fellas. Wish i could buy yall some party favors! 1 Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 (edited) Thanx for the advice crash. I went and returned the alt, got some wiring supplies, and redid the wires from the alt to the battery, like you mentioned. Redid a few grounds too. The car runs, drives and CHARGES at idle at 14.15 and the same with the headlights on. I got done doing the fixes around 11 am or so and have been cruising the shit outta her. Maybe a hundred miles around town... all tye sudden though after about an hours worth tooling around i noticed no dash lights or parking lights. Upon inspection im blowing that circuits fuse once i turn the lights on.. headlights, brake lights are fine though. And the car is still charging.. thanks for your help everyone Edited December 10, 2018 by 510revisited 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 That's good on the charging system.... Gotta luv datsuns, fix one problem find another.... Sounds like the parking lights circuit has a short to ground .... Only thing I can say is try unplugging the bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you turn things on then plugs things in till it does.... Ah the joy of electrical..... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: That's good on the charging system.... Gotta luv datsuns, fix one problem find another.... Sounds like the parking lights circuit has a short to ground .... Only thing I can say is try unplugging the bulbs and see if the fuse still blows when you turn things on then plugs things in till it does.... Ah the joy of electrical..... Sounds logical. I was wondering how to check it systematically... that sounds like next weekend's project. Yes the joys of electricity. Oh how i hate thee.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 10, 2018 Report Share Posted December 10, 2018 I swear all this is like deja vu to me..... I had a couple problems that occurred during my shake down rides in my 521.... I had a short in my parking light circuits too.... I cant even remember what it was or what I fixed... I think It was simply an exposed wire touching some metal.....a good trick to check for that is give the dash harness a slight shake, nothing to violent just enough to move things ... like a exposed wire resting on metal.... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 Hey Crash, thanks for the advice. I went through the car and unplugged every parking light including the brake lights. Put a new fuse in, turned on the power and started re-plugging lights in one at a time. Not once did anything cause the fuse to pop. The driver rear "cherry" light didnt work cause of a bad connection between socket and bulb, but i easily cleaned it out a bit and got power to the bulb. Now EVERYTHING works. Been driving the car after work all week, without a problem. Ive probably put a few hundred miles on her just tooling around, shaking her down. She definitely needs to be timed, carb rebuilt, or at least cleaned (although with a quick glance at the barrels its actually pretty good) and tuned. Also needs to be swapped to a 5 speed, and the exhaust system needs to be redone. it rattles bad against the tranny cross member. I think im at the point though of making the next step in my project. Drum roll please......... ei and efi... i dont wanna bother with a carb so im weighing my options on some sort of fuel injection and coil on plugs. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 (edited) Fuse box needs cleaning most likely When your instrumentation lights go out most time you loose your rear light also. Every now and them my 521 does the same thing.and usualy its the fuse box dirty contack which make a high resisitance and draws a load(closest thing I can figure out. every now and then cheak you rear tail light housing. On rainy days Mine would fill up with water. I drill a hole inthe housing and put anti seizeon the ground side of my bulbs to keep them from rusting in the sockets(also sid emarker bulbs also) On the TO Bearing I just put it IN the vise and sqeezed it together. To remove a T/O bearing I place in a open vise and find a big socket and place inside the T/O bearing and bang it out Edited December 17, 2018 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2018 Thanks for the help hainz. I gotta say this forum is one of the coolest and most helpful that ive ever dealt with. While on the subject of lights, im going through and taking notes of what bulbs are what so i can do a complete led conversion. I have a second guage cluster so it was easy to figure out which bulbs go there. I did have a question about that though. What is the small light above the 60 mph number? Bright indicator? And what color? Im assuming blue... And because im super lazy and cant be bothered to walk out and look, is there a guide, write up, list of all the bulb numbers for a 69? Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 (edited) Ok, so i stopped being lazy and checked all my bulbs for their numbers. Got most of em. However i cant find any info on my "arrowhead" front marker lights. They are the ebay knock offs, but im not 100 percent sure since they were already on the car. I do know they are not oem. The writing on the bulb says "denki 12v 5w e4". Google search isnt much help here. Keeps showing a different type of bulb.. im gonna switch to led and i wanna order the bulbs asap. Thanks in advance Edited December 19, 2018 by 510revisited Quote Link to comment
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