Jump to content
510revisited

Just another (LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

Recommended Posts

On a stock 5.60 X 13 (about 23.2" diameter) tire and 3.70 differential gear a 510 at 56MPH would be revving exactly 3,000 RPMs

 

Some 510s probably wagons had 3.9 differentials it would be 3,163 RPMs

 

36 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I forget which size L motor you have, but I ran mine L16 all summer, probably a combined 1200 highway miles doing 65-70, and ya it was hanging around 3800 to 4000 rpm, motor didnt care , but you dont know how many times I wanted to be able to have 1 more gear.... I think I have 437 gears if I'm right.... 

 

There is a way to check your rear end ratio, just get the rear up on jack stands... some thing between the tire rotations vs the driveshaft rotations...

You'll have to look that up or datzenmike will help me out with that info for you...

 

Stock 6.00 X 14 521 tires and 4.375 differential @ 70 you would be revving 4,360 RPMs. A larger diameter tire would drop this.

Share this post


Link to post
59 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Besides going to a 71B 5speed is going totally away from factory anyway does it really matter if it's a Z series???

Got me there. Mind you, this was a free to me with the deal tranny. Im already scheming on a way to make my own mount, and bushing set up now. Couldnt one build some sort of wedge and bolt it to the tranny, and sandwich a piece of rubber between said wedge and a custom mount, provided clearances are ok and everything is aligned? 

Share this post


Link to post

As I already said, this will raise the transmission and rotate it off center.  That would only work if the mount was on the center line of the mainshaft. Imagine the mount was a ridiculous yard lower. Placing a wedge under it would move everything to the right.

 

2 minutes ago, 510revisited said:

Mike im running 195/60/14

 

Still the same tire diameter so no change.

Share this post


Link to post

I dont mean a wedge to lift it and push it away, but more just a way to make the mount level with the xmember. Id have to draw it all up.to better explain myself. I may also be full of shit cause i haven't mocked anything up either.

Share this post


Link to post
23 minutes ago, 510revisited said:

I dont mean a wedge to lift it and push it away, but more just a way to make the mount level with the xmember. Id have to draw it all up.to better explain myself. I may also be full of shit cause i haven't mocked anything up either.

As long as you keep the centerline and the output shaft in the same location it will work.... 

Take some measurements before you pull the 4 spd and then get the 5 in place.. 

I think it would be easier to mount the transmission first and then build the bracket to suit.... that's would I plan on doing....

The whole wedge aspect will just be a little tricky how to make things bolt up, and what kind of rubber bushing you want to use will matter to the design...

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, 510revisited said:

I dont mean a wedge to lift it and push it away, but more just a way to make the mount level with the xmember. Id have to draw it all up.to better explain myself. I may also be full of shit cause i haven't mocked anything up either.

 

OK got ya. I put a 71B in my 710 which had the same 4 speed as the 510 and 521. In the end I sectioned the cross member and lowered the mount to get the output where the 4 speed was. Likely you will find the same thing.

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

As long as you keep the centerline and the output shaft in the same location it will work.... 

Take some measurements before you pull the 4 spd and then get the 5 in place.. 

I think it would be easier to mount the transmission first and then build the bracket to suit.... that's would I plan on doing....

The whole wedge aspect will just be a little tricky how to make things bolt up, and what kind of rubber bushing you want to use will matter to the design...

Thats the plan. I may even make some kind of temp bracket to hold it exact so i could build the permanent mount. Ill definitely take pics. As far as the shifter goes, is it that bad? Or just enough to make it so i have to heat and bend the shifter? Meaning, am i gonna be rubbing my passenger's thigh all the time?

Share this post


Link to post

its  manageable with a little heat and a bend... but you definitely have to bend it or you'll really be reaching for 5th and reverse,.. It's ok with a girl next to you,  but not so good when your buddy needs a ride..

You dont need a huge bend, I think I did 2... one to get it closer to the driver and a second to straighten it.....

Share this post


Link to post
On 12/21/2018 at 6:00 AM, datzenmike said:

 

6iVhkAC.jpg

 

The 'Left is L series' will apply to this transmission also, which is a 63 series and has no parts that will fit the 71B series 4 or 5 speed. It's from a dime? It won't have the bolt on driveshaft spline. The 521 truck had those. The shorty 720 transmission should fit in the place of the original 510 4 speed for length but the rear mount will need modifications. Speedometer cable location is the same.

So to be clear. This trans in this picture is the trans that is in the car as I type this up. Question is, if I've read what Mike said correctly, I cannot swap the bell housing off of said 4 speed on to my 5 speed?

Share this post


Link to post
On 12/21/2018 at 6:00 AM, datzenmike said:

T6iVhkAC.jpg

 

The 'Left is L series' will apply to this transmission also, which is a 63 series and has no parts that will fit the 71B series 4 or 5 speed. 

 

You are correct the front of the 4 speed pictured will not bolt to the 71B

Share this post


Link to post

Well in keeping with the holiday spirit, and just to actually get something checked off the list i present with, and without light.. (for those who are wondering wtf? I added led guage lights and a triple pack of guages minus one)83lrnrg.jpg0W6f0Nc.jpgcheapo oreillys brand guages. I tried to add led bulbs into the guages but my bulbs are too big. Ill figure something out. Empty spot is reserved for an air/fuel.

I took power from two extra spade connections on the back of the guage cluster. Its not the best looking up close, but its a far cry better then when i was a teen. I actually used heat shrink!!! Mom would be proud. I must say, though the wiring on this car is mostly stock, the gremlins crack me up. I think i need to either

A: clean all conections.

B: rewire.

NEXT!!!!

Share this post


Link to post

Most of the datsuns are plagued by corroded connectors the wires themself usually survive pretty well....

If you get an air/fuel gauge get the wide band o2 setup.... expect to pay around 150 on up for a good setup..... 

I went with innovative motorsports and i love it.... but basically buy quality and make sure it's a wideband.... warms itself up and is much more accurate with faster feedback.....

Share this post


Link to post
10 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Most of the datsuns are plagued by corroded connectors the wires themself usually survive pretty well....

If you get an air/fuel gauge get the wide band o2 setup.... expect to pay around 150 on up for a good setup..... 

I went with innovative motorsports and i love it.... but basically buy quality and make sure it's a wideband.... warms itself up and is much more accurate with faster feedback.....

A widenband still works with a carb im supposing...?

Share this post


Link to post
13 minutes ago, 510revisited said:

A widenband still works with a carb im supposing...?

Its just measuring the exhaust air/fuel mixture so yes... 

 

the system I bought can be used as a signal to an ecu as well as a stand alone monitor.... I think I can even data log if I hook up a laptop..... but I question that because how do you monitor rpm at the same time your reading the air/fuel... that must be an efi thing..  

 

Most will say you dont need it, but I like it, I like information.. I have been using it as a way to tune my side draft because no one near me works with webers. In the end it was cheaper and easier to figure how to tune my carb.... (still learning), then to pay a shop to do it for me.... 

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Its just measuring the exhaust air/fuel mixture so yes... 

 

the system I bought can be used as a signal to an ecu as well as a stand alone monitor.... I think I can even data log if I hook up a laptop..... but I question that because how do you monitor rpm at the same time your reading the air/fuel... that must be an efi thing..  

 

Most will say you dont need it, but I like it, I like information.. I have been using it as a way to tune my side draft because no one near me works with webers. In the end it was cheaper and easier to figure how to tune my carb.... (still learning), then to pay a shop to do it for me.... 

Haters gone hate... im the same. I wanna learn to tune my carb, plus i intend to eventually jump on the efi band wagon. I looked up the guage you recommended. Looks nice. I dig that it comes with the white face, and aluminum ring. Im just curious how to mount it to my existing gauge holder. Thats down the road though... crash, its a bummer your 3k miles away. Id totally smoke you out for all the info you've shared...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

End of the year summary. First thanks to mike, hainz, crash, and everyone else who has chimed in with all the heaps of info. You guys are invaluable to this site, and people like me.

Since my last post i haven't done much, except installed the manual fuel pump, checked the timing (spot on at 12 to my surprise), adjusted the carb as per webers instructions, wires, cap and rotor. i did the plugs a while back, but may buy a new set just for accurate reading now that ive adjusted the carb.

 

Ive put around 200 or so miles on her between yesterday and the day before, without any fail. She is in need of an alignment bad, which will only come after a front end rebuild. That may happen sooner than later now that i discovered a new noise coming from the front. Infact, both front and rear need a refresh. Ive also noficed upon wot she stumbles a wee bit. i suspect the accelerator pump.

I intend to maybe, in this order, accomplish these next few moves. Temp guage repair. I tested the guage and it works. I attempted to remove the sending unit but it just spun in its hole. So, arriving today is a new thermostat housing. I already  have the sending unit. Ill install probably tomorrow,  maybe, maybe not. Carb rebuild, re-jet or replace. Front end rebuild, rear end rebuild. 

 

This leads me to a few ideas, and questions. Im VERY interested in efi, so im not sure if i wanna mess with a new carb. Maybe just re-jet and rebuild. Ive never done a re-jet, and dont know what im doing (my smart phone does though, thank god). Ill work that out. As for a front end rebuild, i have two questions mainly. I see ermish has a front end kit. One being 14mm and one 11mm. What exactly needs to be measured on my car so i know what to order? Now heres the controversial one. I wanna lower the car. I like the idea of a modified front stock strut housing. Chop the perch, drop it to desired height, and reweld. Ive seen online that this conversion can be purchased with a newly replaced strut insert. I'm very confident in my own craftsmanship and intend to do all the work meself. I just need to know which insert to buy to account for the shorter stroke. YES ive used the google search bar and have read this subject numerous times. I cant seem to find a suitable answer.

Again, my gratification cannot be expressed enough. Its been a fun past few months, and im excited for the new year and whatever it brings. Happy new years to whoever sees this..

Share this post


Link to post
6 hours ago, 510revisited said:

End of the year summary. First thanks to mike, hainz, crash, and everyone else who has chimed in with all the heaps of info. You guys are invaluable to this site, and people like me.

Since my last post i haven't done much, except installed the manual fuel pump, checked the timing (spot on at 12 to my surprise), adjusted the carb as per webers instructions, wires, cap and rotor. i did the plugs a while back, but may buy a new set just for accurate reading now that ive adjusted the carb.

 

Ive put around 200 or so miles on her between yesterday and the day before, without any fail. She is in need of an alignment bad, which will only come after a front end rebuild. That may happen sooner than later now that i discovered a new noise coming from the front. Infact, both front and rear need a refresh. Ive also noficed upon wot she stumbles a wee bit. i suspect the accelerator pump.

I intend to maybe, in this order, accomplish these next few moves. Temp guage repair. I tested the guage and it works. I attempted to remove the sending unit but it just spun in its hole. So, arriving today is a new thermostat housing. I already  have the sending unit. Ill install probably tomorrow,  maybe, maybe not. Carb rebuild, re-jet or replace. Front end rebuild, rear end rebuild. 

 

This leads me to a few ideas, and questions. Im VERY interested in efi, so im not sure if i wanna mess with a new carb. Maybe just re-jet and rebuild. Ive never done a re-jet, and dont know what im doing (my smart phone does though, thank god). Ill work that out. As for a front end rebuild, i have two questions mainly. I see ermish has a front end kit. One being 14mm and one 11mm. What exactly needs to be measured on my car so i know what to order? Now heres the controversial one. I wanna lower the car. I like the idea of a modified front stock strut housing. Chop the perch, drop it to desired height, and reweld. Ive seen online that this conversion can be purchased with a newly replaced strut insert. I'm very confident in my own craftsmanship and intend to do all the work meself. I just need to know which insert to buy to account for the shorter stroke. YES ive used the google search bar and have read this subject numerous times. I cant seem to find a suitable answer.

Again, my gratification cannot be expressed enough. Its been a fun past few months, and im excited for the new year and whatever it brings. Happy new years to whoever sees this..

Happy New years to you as well. 

 

I owe you a response to your pm from a few days back, but I'll chime in here to your questions above as I've just gone through most of this (my project thread is in desperate need of an update...).

 

I'd say if your interested in efi, then tune up your carb first so you have a reliable driver while you piece parts together and can have something to swap back on as you test the efi set up. When you're fully converted, you have a running carb and mani to sell...

 

For the front end, source the 14 mm steering arms and go from there ( or drill out the ones you have? It's a tapered hole). 14 mm ball joints are available from many sources. As for all the other front end bits, rockauto.

 

For the shortened strut, going to 280zx struts gets you larger (and more readily available?) wheel bearings, vented rotors and bigger calipers, and is already a shorter strut body by 1 1/2" if I remember. Unless your wheel won't allow the larger brakes no reason not to go 280zx. They pull the track width in a bit, but this might help depending on how low you are going and can be bumped back out with spacers if not desired) Im currently running 280zx struts but have a shorter insert as I will section those for another 1-2", there are spacers in the strut body for the insert until the sectioning is done.

 

For the rear, if you are going lower you will benefit greatly from adding some adjustment via brackets it slotting at a minimum (there's a few options out there).

 

I've got a bunch of old parts you could use as reference (11 mm ball joints and steering arms for example) 280zx struts with brakes to check wheel clearance, rear chopped springs, extra coilover springs, perches, etc.. 

 

Some of the used stuff could be yours for some beers... Others may be for sale, but mostly they are here to check out, measure, etc.. against what you're thinking (no charge, of course).

 

Great progress on the dime!!!

I'll follow up with a bunch of links to what I have referenced as I went through this.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post

The accelerator pump is only for just above idle to make the mixture richer where it would normally go very lean above idle transitioning to the primary barrel. At WOT you may be thinking of the power valve (or enrichment valve) which can only open at very high speeds and low manifold vacuum to improve power by increasing the fuel mixture.

 

If your engine is in good running order you don't need to replace the plugs unless worn out. The correct spark plug and heat range is self cleaning as you drive.

Share this post


Link to post

Well, i managed to start the year off in a good fashion. I installed my tach (temporarily as im not sure where i wanna permanently mount it). I also managed to install my new thermostat housing. Come to find out when i took the old one apart there was no thermostat. Now i know why my heater wasnt very warm, go figure. I put in a new temp sending unit, and would you believe this little beast is staying perfectly warm on the temp guage. Smack dab on the dot. Im impressed. Got her to idle right at 850-950 ish pending which accessories are on. Le45IIX.jpg

now onto the fuel guage. She only half works, since she always says half!!!

 

I ordered all new front end stuff. Center link, tie rod ends, and the rods to go between the tie rods. Im on the fence about the 14mm ball joint swap. Im just a bit hesitant about spending money on a reamer for a one time use. I may post a want ad for the 14 mil knuckles, may not. Im not going full retard with this car.. ill cross that bridge in a bit.  

  

Speeking of suspension, is there absolutely no front brake upgrade for the stock front end unless i swap to zx, or any other swap? Im not keen on the idea of spacers. Although ive never experienced any issue because ive never used spacers, ive heard to many horror stories. Plus i have had a wheel bearing freeze at 65 mph. Not fun. I dont like the idea of loosing track width, but again, not full retard. Jury is still out. And to clarify how low i wanna go, i just wanna eliminate the gap between tire and fender low. Not tucked, just classy.. maybe even on stock steelies. 

 

So as for the carb/efi im still hesitant. I agree with the idea of getting everything right as is before i get into an efi project. And thats actually what im doing. I thought about a rebuild/rejet but have come to learn i have a 32/36 dgv, that has a sticky throttle somewhere between the pedal and carb. If i were to stick with the 32/36 id prefer to have the electric choke. So im almost inclined to just buy a dgev or dfev. And like plusnone suggested when im done i can sell it all on. I may do that in the beginning of February since i get a vacation check from work. Happy new year to all, and thanks for all the fish! ?

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

So yesterday i got to spend some time (about 6 or 7 hours going thru a huge collection of 510 parts. And do i mean huge. Every nut and bolt (damn near) that you can think of. I was able to walk away with some pretty good treasures too, if i dont say so my self. Heres the list

-L series bell housing

-Two different shifter handles, one short, one long. 

-A complete 5 speed (will post pics later for identification)

-3/4 inch front sway (not 100 percent on size, but yes its fatter than oem) with all the brackets and poly bushes

-Rear, adjustable sway bar with all the brackets but no bushes

- two white sun visors (need the screws and the clips that hold them in by the rear view mirror)

-two bump steer spacers

-2 sets of retractable lap belts. Not 69's but i can make them work for now..

-brand new condition dome lamp with cover 

-fresh air vent unit with black spinny knob (which is all that i really needed)

-280zx struts with just about everything included.

-14 mm steering arms, along with the tc rods, lca's, and all the steering linkage (which im replacing with all new)

-Battery tray

-two turn signal sets (i just need a good arm, now i have two)

-door lock pulls

-and the coup de gras, two c pillar vents, in METAL! 

 

So my plans are not solid yet. But i am tempted to go the coilover route. I have been doing my research, but what im not clear on is this. Once the strut is converted to a coilover do i need to use a camber plate to mount it to the car? Only reason im leaning towards the coilover route is i dont trust the idea of just a clamp. I believe in welding, but hey thats just me. I do understand though that if i swap the perches around from the dime to the z i can bolt the strut in like its supposed to with the regular top hat. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I already have all new steering parts, now i plan to order new ball joints and bushings for the lca's. Id like to have the front suspension and steering done in the next month or so. 

The plan for the tranny is to swap out the bell housing from the 5 speed i already have because its the same length as the four speed in the car. The 5 speed i picked up last nite is still up in the air. 

 

Share this post


Link to post

How about another round of name that tranny! Here's the 5 speed i picked up...0kdghCz.jpgQ61lqOH.jpgME4RCAN.jpgkIRqe1H.jpg

Only two castings i could see are "L2" and "+8-7-19"

Share this post


Link to post

31.5" long, 620 L series 5 speed made between '77 and '79. This transmission is not made after '79. Has neutral and top gear switches for emissions so has to be a truck transmission as the 280z, 280zx and the 810 (that also had 5 speeds before '80 were all EFI cars and didn't use them. The casting numbers are just mold revisions.

 

If I had to guess.... I would say a '79. If you want to know if '77-'78 OR if it is a '79 mark the input and output splines and have someone count the output turns while your turn the input 20 times. If the output turns 5.5 turns it's a '79. If it turns 6 times it's either a '77 or a '78. This is  as close as I can take it... what did I win???

Share this post


Link to post

A beer if we ever meet! Right on mike. Thanks a bunch for your help and wisdom. I may just pass it on, pending how my other short 5 speed does. Either way, its nice to know.. maybe trade for some better wheels

Edited by 510revisited

Share this post


Link to post

Soooo in the interest of time and money, and seeing as how if i need to cut them off to swap them anyway, whats to say one "cant" just use the original 510 struts to lower ones ride. I.e. use the clamp-strut method on the original strut. Only reason im thinking of this is i gotta order parts for the zx brakes, as in new everything. In the mean time, so my car doesnt look like a prerunner, i figured order said clamps and bust out the grinder...! And change the fluid in the dampner. 

Edited by 510revisited

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.