Just another (LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

[Lockleaf]

First step, know what you are looking for from a relay or flasher.

 

Flashers should have constant voltage on one side and intermittent voltage on  other.

 

Relays are actually 2 circuits in one box, so you need to know which pins create each circuit.

 

Datsuns are built using ground switching.  One power wire, multiple paths ground to choose your options, like blower fan speed for example.

 

When trying  diagnose a circuit, i find  best to understand it from start  to finish.  I draw the whole circuit out on paper, reading it from the diagram then sketching just that circuit.  Then start from one end and work the other until you find the point where power goes  to something on One end but doesn't come out other.  That's your bad component.

[510revisited]

So your response got me to thinking lock leaf. I had a 72 dime right out of high school ('97) and lime every kid, wired all sorts of sh!t onto it, POSITIVE SWITCHED, and screwed up something which caused it to not be able to start the car with a key. I had to jump the starter solenoid. 

     Fast forward 20 years. Previous owner, or whomever, wired an electric fuel pump to the ignition wire... just wrapped it around a stripped section (like 1997). There is an ir alternator (i believe) which isnt charging the battery. I have an extra (from po) mechanical fuel pump. Gonna try getting rid of the e pump and see if SOME problems fix themselves..then move onto the alternator. po also did electric dizzy. Gonna check that... again thanks lock leaf. Btw i had no clue ground switching was a thing.

[510revisited]

So i havent got an answer yet. I was curious if the wires on my alternator are backwards at the "t" connection. Or is the diagram wrong. If so ill switch them round. Wb wire goes into "s" terminal diagram says its yellow into "s"

[510revisited]

Update: IT CHARGES!!! I switched the wiring around at the t connector and it charges now. Cant remember the exact voltage it was putting out though. And now my signals, wipers, and flashers work, INTERMITTENTLY though. I think its a grounding issue. My battery cables and clamps are kinda janky. I plan on buying all new ones.. I also figured out the horn issue too. Helps to actually have them plugged in. ? but i still need a steering wheel with all the parts inside the button area... now on to a million other things

[510revisited]

Another update. Did the fuel filler hose upgrade. Works good. Not sure how it is to fill and all seeing as how its still not registered. I plan to redo the brass fitting with the heater connection another member did. Way cleaner imo.

Managed to find this hidden underneath a craptastic paint job

 

So apparently its my cars bday this month. Go figure. Ordered a new grant steering wheel, hub, fuel pump spacer, gaskets and a pigtail for the alternator. Which btw is over charging at darn near 15 volts. Slowly but surely getting it closer to the road.

[510revisited]

All quiet on the western front huh!!!?? ???

So i received my grant hub adapter, and put it on the car as a tesf fit before i intalled the whole thing (actual wheel will show up at the end of the week) and all seems well. I noticed the horn contact doesnt touch the ring on the hub

No biggie, i figure i could tweak it enough. But before i did anything i. went through more stuff in the box and found this.

Some kind of extension as per the instructions. But for the lack of info in the instructions i cannot figure out where it actually goes. Any and all help is appreciated. Here is a pic of the switch for any reference needed...

[510revisited]

So today is a milestone. The car officially became mine, and is registered and road worthy-ish. Thanks to datzenmike helping me out on my other thread. Turns out it was the matchbox that crapped out. 

    A short recap. All the lights work. Brake lights work, turn signals work, flashers work. Headlights work. Horn works. Alternator is charging. Its ALL good, ALMOST. 

    Now the not so good. Since im able to drive around with out worrying about johnny law, ive put some miles on it. I noticed the clutch is slipping BAD. Sounds like sandpaper rubbing on something when in gear.. Figures, one step forward, two back. No worries though, its mine and its legit. Clutches aint that bad! This will give me the opportunity to maybe swap in the extra 5 spd. If it'll fit!!!

     Thanks to the forum for all the help. A lot of this wouldnt have been figured out without the community.. now heres some pics. 

[tr8er]

Tons of info in 5speed figment.  Not hard.  

[510revisited]

So apparently my l20b from a truck, is from a car cause my flywheel measures at 7 7/8, or at least the area the disc rubs. Oh and its aluminum. Oh and they had to resurface the sh!t out of it. Around 3/16 or so off it. Lets hope it doent overheat to quickly or explode, or do anything bad. Waiting on the clutch kit to show up. Bought a duralast from autozone.

    Does anyone have any input on using an "oe" style, or just a stock replacement set on said aluminum flywheel. Should i buy a "race" kit instead? Motor internals are unknown except its a running l20b. So im not trying to track this thing, yet.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Datsun Roadster parts.com sells a a Daiken Exedy clutch kit(DT275) for like 170$ that is a 600kg clamping force. a true roadster is 650 but I cant find any more nissan made ones around and list as NLA. theDuralast is just a cheap stock clutch. which is a 350KG . good for a stock driver. but I would buy a Daiken if going stock.

 

reading  if you have a true 200mm set up then the roadster set will work, well you will know as the pins on the flywheelwill be farther out if a truck set up

 

also a truck 225 mm usues a different t/o bearing collar length.

 

 

one thing a I have to say I never seen a flywheel like that usually the wear pad part is a steel insert center where the disk wears and it look like all one piece to me. One can usually see the center steel part.

 

another thing 3/16 cut off the surface is amost a 1/4 inch this is alot and might change the clutch adjustment alot at the slave cylinder unless you have the old adjustable rod type but others like Stoff or Distributor guy.

 

if your going to keep the car a long time buy 2 kits as these also are New old stock and Daiken dont make these Roadster kits anymore .

 

Edited October 14, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)
add more

[510revisited]

I do have the adjustable kind. I tried adjusting it but to no evail. I figured 3/16 was a gamble. Tbh id like to just find a stock flywheel, or at least any steel flywheel that would fit as a swap. If the flywheel holds up, i guess ill rock it till it stops..

     a customer was telling me at the machine shop to not ride the clutch. In and out quickly. I tend to feather clutches a bit. I use the tranny to slow me down as opposed to brakes and such, though YES i do use the brakes..

 

Edit. What year roadster, and what engine?

Edited October 14, 2018 by 510revisited

[banzai510(hainz)]

I re edited my post its all in there now from the place to buy.

a 510 and Datsun Roadster 2000 kit are exactly same specs just the clamping force is better.

 

 

wait for some more responses back on this one as Im not a flywheel expert but to me it looks like a all steel flywheel or a all aluminum flywheel .is not really  . Im seeing soemthing weird about this part.

Is it about 10/11 pounds. Back side should be hollowed out.???????

 

all the alum flywheels I seen are screwed in steel centers then flushed.

Edited October 14, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)

[510revisited]

There was no insert, back side is hollowed out, and its light as hell. I was expecting a lot of wheight when i took it off. The clutch had cut a groove into the surface about 3/16 deep. Ive never dealt with aluminum flywheels before, and i've done a few clutches before. Even noticed the grease on my hands was a bit more grey than usual. Ill await more responses. I have 3 days till the duralast shows up. I browsed the datsun parts website and saw the info on the roadster set. I may go with it, but honestly what are the benefits?

[banzai510(hainz)]

is the surface where the disk goes steel or aluminum? If aluminum its junk as I cant see why one would wack 3/16 off the surface. It must have looked like a bad worn out record. I figure the machinist would have caught this. Hope he didnt charge to much.

look like a new ring gear also

 

a L20 has more power and if you upgrade to more carbs you can maybe chirp the tires. hit the gears harder.  but the slave cylinder might pop if old as the force is almost double.

 

stock is good for a driver and last a fare good amount if time and ez to shift.  persoanll I hate Duralast (mexico Taiwan Chia???)and would take it back. If stock get a Daiken Japan pressureplate.

 

 

hope others chime in on this one

Edited October 14, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)

[510revisited]

The entire surface is aluminum.  In between the lines is where the cluth plate rides. That was the area that had dug in about 3/16. Outside the black lines, going toward the ring gear, and the bolts, the areas were raised. Im hoping i didn't f up the wheel by having it turned that much. The plate is only gonna dig again i assume, which means it will eventually hit the bolt heads...

[banzai510(hainz)]

To me this isnt right. aluminum cant take the heat with a moving surface like that the machinst who had this done should have caught this unless you did this and just dont know. Its has to be a steel hard surface. Only good thing on this is the ring gear. Unless there is a stell plate that goes to this that mate to the surface this isnt going to work

 

to make a Roadster kit work you need to find a another 6 bolt 200mm or get a Fidanza 200mm for a 510 .

 

or get a 22mm truck flywheel and youll need the t/O collar for this as the diaphrame finger height is different

 

ok going to bed. maybe make a new post with the Flywheel to get others opinions or expertise

 

Edited October 14, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

Using the engine to slow down???? Which is easier and cheaper to do??? Replace the brake shoes or pull the engine/transmission and replace the clutch and or the release bearling???? Learn to stop that bad habit.

 

Hainz is right, aluminum is soft, it needs a steel insert for the friction disc. I'd not waste the time with it. In 6 months it will be toast again. Get a cast iron wheel in 200mm or 225mm. The Z car wheels are 225mm and scalloped.

 

 

Check the front or engine side. Some are scalloped like the one on the left and is 21 pounds. The other is 29 pounds. A flywheel by definition stores kinetic energy in the form of spinning weight. It's like having a running start in a race, it helps you get the car weight moving from a stop. There is very little revving and slipping the clutch with a heavy flywheel.

 

That said, once moving, the flywheel is a liability, as the engine must divert some power to spinning that weight up with the car. It never goes to waste but slows the acceleration compared to an extremely light one.

[510revisited]

What year z car? Im assuming NOT zx.. got a line on one for sale?

[510revisited]

This one?

[datzenmike]

All years. I had a scrap '79 zx and it was the 225mm 21 pound. I thought it was odd because all I had were 4 cylinder ones and they were heavy.

[510revisited]

So that begs the question... what clutch set do i get. The tranny is a four speed. Po said it was "original" tranny. He also said the clutch was new.......

     Can/should i re use my collar for the to bearing. Mike i've seen your pics posted years back of all the different height collars. This has me concerened ill be chasing collars across the globe. 

[datzenmike]

Some clutches come with the correct collar. Probably what this means is that the clutch is generic and might fit just about anything. It's made to fit a Datsun buy simply having the correct collar provided with it.

 

If you specify a direct replacement then it's going to replace the one you have in every way and will work with the collar you have. 

 

You have some sort of aluminumm flywheel, that was just ground down almost 1/4" so I don't know what to say will work with that.

[510revisited]

I mean if i get a z flywheel, do i order a z clutch set, or a clutch set from whatever vehicle the l20b was from. Be it 510, 200sx blah blah blah... 

[datzenmike]

The pressure plate mounting bolt pattern determines the clutch you can mount on the flywheel. If a 200mm you can select a Roadster, 510, 521, 610, 710, A10, S10 or an early S110 The sizes are all the same only the clamping force and collar length will vary. Same with a 225mm flywheel but the collar must match the pressure plate that you select. If you found a 240mm flywheel from a Z24 in a 720 you could mount a 300zx turbo pressure plate... but it would need the 300zx collar to work properly.

 

I think this is correct...

L16/18....................... 200mm flywheels, with the exception of the '74 620 truck that was 225mm

L20B car.................... 200mm

L20B truck................. 225mm

Z20 car....................... 200mm

Z22 car....................... 200mm

Z20 truck................... 240mm

Z22 truck................... 225mm

Z24............................. 240mm

KA24E/DE car............ 225mm

KA24E/DE truck........ 240mm

240/260/280z/zx..... 225mm.... 280z 2+2 and zx turbo were 240mm

 

 

[510revisited]

Sounds good to me mike. Again, thanks for all your wisdom and help. Wish i could buy ya a beer. Ill order a flywheel here in a day or so. Now, what do i do for bolts for the flywheel.. arp doesnt list them.