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My 1971 521


d.p

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Well I got it lined up by massaging the bracket albeit probably not ideal but at least I can drive it now.  What I do from here I don’t know.  I have hubs for Mikes kit but I know my rotors won’t work and not sure my calipers will either.  
 

 

DE6DC5FA-7C69-4667-A314-575364BDBF81.jpeg

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Do you have Mike's aluminum brackets? I don't think he's making anymore.

 

Only other option is that Wilwood kit from Silvermine motors, but it's $855! They also claim you need a 16" wheel, which is bunk.

Edited by mainer311
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Man STFU that bolt is backed out because I took the picture once I got it lined up.  I still had to go and buy more washers and a shorter bolt and brake fluid to bleed the fronts.  
 

 

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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Fixed it right in the middle of the road? Ballsy.


Was in a turn lane into a park and my M3 was parked right behind my truck (after a Good Samaritan gave my wife and I a ride home).  
 

Luckily we were less than 5 minutes away from our house.  I will say this truck has never left me stranded far from home, stranded but not far. 

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Uses a T and external supply line. Have to drill hole in valve cover.

 

The Z car till half way through the '77 model year used a spray bar that can be shortened for use on a 4 cylinder. You'll also need two of the cam towers that are drilled for the oil supply. Jan '77 and on 280x and all 280zx used a hollow cam that is pressurized with oil and holes drilled into the cam lobes for oil to the rockers.

 

This all said... do you really need one as the cam self oils itself now anyway???? Perhaps if full race where the engine never ran below 7,000 and had insanely stiff springs for the insanely high lift cam. L4 aren't known for cam failures.

 

Definitely use a KA oil pump to make up for the pressure loss from all the openings. Your oil pressure gauge will read lower because of the pressure drop caused but the extra oil being dumped on the lobes with that external hose attached right beside the sender.

 

All that oil fog under the valve cover.... can't help wondering if you'll have more oil blowing out the valve cover vent hose.

 

An oil cooler, also not really needed, would be more useful than a spray bar.

 

 

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

So its a cool setup as I have one now with my Robello stroker as he installs them when built. That guy DP racing is down the street from me or about 25 mlies away. Unless racing I was advised not to run an oil cooler as I thought that would be a good idea as these fuckin L series engines run a little hot if you ask me.

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I got the oil cooler set up from a 280zx automatic. Ran high pressure hoses out front of the radiator and used a cooler from a Ford 350 Diesel? Only once the oil temp on the hottest day just touched 90C. That's only 194 F and barely above the coolant temperature. Runs in the 70s so I would say probably not needed but I will  join the ends of the hoses and try it without the cooler to see what is normal for an L20B. I thought oil temperatures were 220 or something.... maybe they are and this is how much they do cool. Another source said that oil lubricates best when hot, not overly hot, but 'hot'. Another thing... it takes a long long long time to warm the oil up. Over half an hour close to 45 min before it stops going up. Ten minutes for the coolant in the summer.

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I see some dudes with oil coolers mounted on the front of the truck and I think that’s a bit much.  Besides I don’t have an oil temp gauge and I would absolutely have to add one to compliment it.  

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