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My 1971 521


d.p

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Just now, NC85ST said:

Install that gear as is and make sure that’s what you’re looking for as far as your gearing. If it is then install the LSD because it’s not that hard to pull the gear back out. If it’s not the gear you want and you have the LSD installed, then you’ve spent a lot of money and it’s still not geared right.

 

Word, probably going to install it today and hope to report some positive feedback.  

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FYI - those inexpensive (cheap) "LSD" units are total crap. Yes, they may be better than an open diff, and yes, they are a ton less expensive than a Nissan unit, but they have problems. They have a poor track record for wear and failures.

 

Would I install one? If I had it on the shelf, sure, but I wouldn't waste the money buying one new.

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It will go either way and right now when it’s like this the passenger side axel won’t seat all the way.  Have like a 1/4” gap between the backing plate and the hub.  
 

something is off and I don’t know what. 

5F244145-F675-4603-AAD1-3F2F15F0FB8F.jpeg

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5 hours ago, d.p said:

One other question I have, would it make sense to throw an LSD into this thing while its out?

 

https://www.tractionconcepts.com/Datsun-521-Limited-Slip-Truck-H190-Diff-Lsd-Kit-p/tcxda5512.htm

 

For $350 I might as well no? 

 

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

TC is a rebadged Phantom Grip. They are not true LSD but spring load the side gears outward against the differential case metal to metal. They make their sales to ignorant kids fresh to the market wanting to go drifting on the cheap. There is a reason car makers use viscous or clutches in their LSDs, they work, and they last but more important they cause no harm. Don't do it.

 

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5F244145-F675-4603-AAD1-3F2F15F0FB8F.jpeg

 

 

Put the nuts on and gently torque them down.... go round and round tightening. Don't force anything in case this isn't it... but I think it is. This will pull the axle in. It's likely the wheel bearing snugging into the axle tube.

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I tried to do that but to no avail.  Is there a way to see if the bearing is snugged up against the axel?  I guess I would need to take the drum off to see.   Half tempted to install the original diff and see if the problem exists with it as well know.  If so then probably the bearing as you say, if not then the H190 won't work for me. 

 

Fuck what a pain in the ass this is turning out to be.   Bitch removing and reinstalling 57 pound diff gears multiple times on my back.,  

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Axles and housings are the same so must be bearing caught on lip. wayno has swapped these before so it works. Other side went in.

 

Did the grease seal get bumped poking the spline end in?

 

 

 

E4C043B3-47F4-4909-AD8D-F2107F29E4E3.jpeg

 

Pipe to the front should fit inside the the pipe behind it

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Thanks my dudes..,gave up,  posted here, took a shower, grilled some rib eyes and swordfish, stuffed my fucking face then went down and tried it again.  Hit the passenger side with brass hammer then snugged the nuts down like @datzenmike said it and it popped right in.   Locked the drivers side down and both wheels spin nice and smooth.  Cleaning up all the diff cover/drive shaft bolts in purple power and will finish it up tomorrow morning.   

 

Anyone know how much GLA5 I need to put in this fucker?  

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22 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Say what now?  


The exhaust. The forward pipe should slip into the rearward pipe so that the flow doesn’t add to the leaking. The pressure blows past the seam.

 

Get 2 quarts of GL5. (Or 3 to be safe.) I prefer Mobil 1, but other people like Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple. Fill the diff until it spills out of the fill hole, then cap it.

Edited by mainer311
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45 minutes ago, d.p said:

Thanks my dudes..,gave up,  posted here, took a shower, grilled some rib eyes and swordfish, stuffed my fucking face then went down and tried it again.  Hit the passenger side with brass hammer then snugged the nuts down like @datzenmike said it and it popped right in.   Locked the drivers side down and both wheels spin nice and smooth.  Cleaning up all the diff cover/drive shaft bolts in purple power and will finish it up tomorrow morning.   

 

Anyone know how much GLA5 I need to put in this fucker?  

Nice work.

 

Hopefully you used black or grey rtv on the diff gasket. And hopefully none of that greasy road grime got in between the axle housing end and the backing plate.

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Looks like something like a hanger in the way but if the front pipe is over the rear just hit the leak with a hammer just enough to slightly dent it and the metal will close it off. Quickly enough rust and deposits will seal it off permanently.

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9 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Nice work.

 

Hopefully you used black or grey rtv on the diff gasket. And hopefully none of that greasy road grime got in between the axle housing end and the backing plate.


nah I didn’t because there wasn’t any on there when I took the original one off. Just the gasket and it hasn’t leaked since I’ve owned it.
 

Cleaned it up pretty well so think I’ll be fine. 

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