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My 1971 521


d.p

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3 hours ago, mainer311 said:

It might be too much if you have a case of the gay.


 

lol I don’t so who knows what I’m going to do.  Not sure I want pull my L20b in favor for a KA.  I think something to be said to have a somewhat period correct 521.  

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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

You need to stop creating problems to solve, Tanker MkII.


I got to keep myself busy somehow.   No one can argue that anyone does it better than Ray with these trucks.   I would never go as far as he does with his truck but I like to think my truck is nice in its own right.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone know what thread the rear brake lines are that go from the hard line to the drum?  I’m watching basketball and just bought those rear disc brake adapters and wondering if I need specific brake lines because the SAE/metric bullshit that is these trucks. 
 

calipers/rotors/lines would come from 90 Isuzu trooper. 

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59 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

The easiest thing to do is remake the line with a metric tube nut on the outside, and SAE tube nut on the inside where it meets the junction block.


I can do that.  

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10 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Yes, mine is the same. It’s not funky. There is a rubber line to allow for rear axle movement. Since it’s a solid rear axle, there are hard lines to the drums back there.


learned something new and yeah I see the hard lines.  Just never seen it be hard lines all the way to drums/calipers.  

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The axle on my roadster is setup the same way. Since none of those parts move in relation to each other, it’s actually more beneficial to not have rubber lines. 
 

I had a stainless braided line made up to replace the rubber line on my truck.

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8 hours ago, thisismatt said:

Normal for drum brakes since you don't have to move anything, unlike discs where you have to be able to remove/swing the caliper to change pads 

 

Can I make change it to hard > rubber > caliper?  If so link me to the clips/hose I need to buy my good man. 

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Got me rear caliper kit, looks nice and just waiting on all the other parts to show up. 

 

'i ordered rear calipers, rotors and pads from a 90 Isuzu trooper.  Will make sure to ask a lot of questions as I tackle this mfer.  

 

 

Edited by d.p
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Alright well I’ll figure it out eventually.  Rear caliper kit showed up today and looks nice. Waiting for all the parts to arrive and will probably start on this project soon.  Rear brake lines wont work cause they are female on the one side so I just do hard lines and roll with it. 

 

9AAC3CB9-D059-48A4-96A1-ED1C0CCA6874.jpeg

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4 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Those standoffs really just tacked in place?  Do those rotors fit without having the center bore machined?


Yea and I don’t know.  Fuck if these are good enough for Mike then they are good enough for me I guess.  
 

 

C5696222-CBA7-4B4E-B47B-4CF20E4590D9.jpeg

Edited by d.p
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1 minute ago, thisismatt said:

 

Man, I don't know...just seems like a lot of faith to put into some tack welds.


I asked and he said it just a spacer and gets squeezed in between the caliper and the bracket.  Seeing as I had a problem with beebani’s and his was fully welded who the fuck knows.  All this stuff is fly by night if you think about it. 

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Those rubber lines have a female M10x1.0 inverted flare. All you need to do is connect that to the existing hardline, but change the end of the hardline to the mating male M10x1.0 tube nut. Of course, it would be beneficial to support that junction with a metal tab and a clip (like on the front brake lines).

 

You’ll need a good flaring tool. I have a Rigid brand flare tool and it works pretty well. Don’t cheap out. The ones from Autozone are junk. And double flare it. Watch some YouTube vids on how to do it.

Edited by mainer311
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