d.p Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 I guess it stays? How do the adjuster at the bottom of the drum come off? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 There's a big clip on the back, like a brake hose clip 😂 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 (edited) How do I get the backing plate off from the mount? Looks like one piece but I don’t think that is right? Don’t have much interest in cutting this thing off but not sure how much choice I have? Edited April 29, 2022 by d.p Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 8 minutes ago, d.p said: How do I get the backing plate off from the mount? Looks like one piece but I don’t think that is right? You need to press out the 4 studs from the hub.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 3 hours ago, thisismatt said: The dude sends out crappy/dangerously built/designed products and expects the buyer to do the testing/R&D. GTFO with that. I don't think you've heard all the stories. Maybe if he said sorry once in a while, and made things right when an issue arose, but I haven't heard of that. I like to see things built at least as well as something that would come from the factory. Not seeing it... 🤷♂️ Anyways, nothing personal and if you like his stuff that's all good...back to dp shenanigans I guess I dont know the whole story... too bad he does make good if there's an issue.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 Alright well I think I am over this project already. I don't have a way to press the studs out or pull the bearing and I don't want to cut anything so I just went and tried to put the drum brakes back on but what a PITA that is. Is there a trick to getting the top spring in? Or putting drum brakes back together at all? The top spring is royal pain in the ass with one end is in front of the drum and the other behind but almost impossible to get it to seat and keep that arm bar thing in place as well. Also I seemed to have lost one of the retaining clip spring covers when it shot out in my garage. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 Just put a nut on the stud and beat it with a hammer. Quit being a pussy. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 39 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Just put a nut on the stud and beat it with a hammer. Quit being a pussy. Lol will that get he bearing out too? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: I guess I dont know the whole story... too bad he does make good if there's an issue.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xc8S8s7SsDo&ab_channel=JohnFranco You can watch it in 2x speed and get the gist. This pretty much epitomizes beebani. I think it was also Carlos Ortiz who had a set of the double clevis arms that folded on him while in use. I personally have some of his early UCAs and the bushing sleeves aren't even on axis with each other 🥴 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 22 minutes ago, d.p said: Lol will that get he bearing out too? Removing the bearing is easy. Cut the cage with dikes, trash the rollers, then slot the inner race with a cutoff wheel and smack it with a chisel. The inner race will crack and slide right off. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 Then I would need to replace it with another one which I don’t have. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 6 minutes ago, d.p said: Then I would need to replace it with another one which I don’t have. But, you buy everything else. Just make it all new. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: But, you buy everything else. Just make it all new. In all honesty I’m over it today. I put the one drum back together and put the wheels back on. If I get the motivation to tackle it again I will buy new bearings and seals but for now I just don’t have the energy or desire to do it all. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 30, 2022 Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 19 hours ago, d.p said: Alright well I think I am over this project already. I don't have a way to press the studs out or pull the bearing and I don't want to cut anything so I just went and tried to put the drum brakes back on but what a PITA that is. Is there a trick to getting the top spring in? Or putting drum brakes back together at all? The top spring is royal pain in the ass with one end is in front of the drum and the other behind but almost impossible to get it to seat and keep that arm bar thing in place as well. Also I seemed to have lost one of the retaining clip spring covers when it shot out in my garage. There are special tools for brake shoe springs. Any auto parts store has them. Also, to help hold things together during assembly, I use two plastic Dewalt squeeze clamps to hold the shoes in place. It's super helpful, and better than a second person, because they don't get their feelings hurt. Also, a motorcycle tie down or a really long zip tie can help hold them in place. For removing and installing the wheel studs, I have a 6" long slug of aluminum round stock that I hit with a big hammer. It works fine and the aluminum is soft enough so it doesn't hurt the threads. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 30, 2022 Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 49 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: For removing and installing the wheel studs, I have a 6" long slug of aluminum round stock that I hit with a big hammer. It works fine and the aluminum is soft enough so it doesn't hurt the threads. It's not the wheel studs he needs to remove the are the studs in the hub... The backing plate is between them and the hub.... Picture is with backing plate removed before pressing the studs back into the hub... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 30, 2022 Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 Could still knock them out with the aluminum drift and a hammer. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 30, 2022 Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 29 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Could still knock them out with the aluminum drift and a hammer. The tricky part is supporting it to do that.... the backing place has a bunch of contours.. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 (edited) Thanks guys. I got the drum back together using a ratchet strap and one of those drum spring tools which still makes them a pain in the ass. My brothers good friend is a mechanic and he said he could help press the bearings out and pull the backing plate but he’s on vacation until next week. I’m going to order the bearings and seals and pull the axels and just let him do that. Should I even need to order more of those axel spacers? Meaning when I remove the backing plate will I need more of them? I already have a magnetic dial gauge to measure it already as I used it to find TDC when I did my engine. I saw how Mike does it and it’s looks easy enough. Edited May 1, 2022 by d.p 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 (edited) Also how do you press the mount studs out with the backing plate still on it? You can’t right? What happens after you take the axel lock nut off? Having never done this I am not clear on the order of operations. meaning I I take the axel out, remove the lock nut and that would allow me to pull the axle leaving the mount, backing plate and the hub? Or does the bearing need to be removed /cut before I can detach the hub plate and mount? Edited May 1, 2022 by d.p Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 1, 2022 Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 29 minutes ago, d.p said: Thanks guys. I got the drum back together using a ratchet strap and one of those drum spring tools which still makes them a pain in the ass. My brothers good friend is a mechanic and he said he could help press the bearings out and pull the backing plate but he’s on vacation until next week. I’m going to order the bearings and seals and pull the axels and just let him do that. Should I even need to order more of those axel spacers? Meaning when I remove the backing plate will I need more of them? I already have a magnetic dial gauge to measure it already as I used it to find TDC when I did my engine. I saw how Mike does it and it’s looks easy enough. Removing the mounting plate has nothing to do with the preload on the bearing.... What you need to do is replace the bearing reassemble everything with the shims you have now then check the end play. Only then can you determine if you need any more or less shimming... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 1, 2022 Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 26 minutes ago, d.p said: Also how do you press the mount studs out with the backing plate still on it? You can’t right? What happens after you take the axel lock nut off? Having never done this I am not clear on the order of operations. meaning I I take the axel out, remove the lock nut and that would allow me to pull the axle leaving the mount, backing plate and the hub? Or does the bearing need to be removed /cut before I can detach the hub plate and mount? The mounting plate and hub will still be together after you remove the bearing.... Bearing comes out first and seperate the axle from the hub and backing plate.. Then you deal with just the hub and backing plate .... the stud goes through the backing plate and holds it tight to the hub.... press all 4 out remove backing plate then put the studs back in the hub... then deal with the bearing race and bearing... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 9 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Removing the mounting plate has nothing to do with the preload on the bearing.... What you need to do is replace the bearing reassemble everything with the shims you have now then check the end play. Only then can you determine if you need any more or less shimming... I wasn’t saying it did. What I was asking was once I take the backing plate out of the equation am I going to beed more shins to compensate? Because if I do all that and I need to shim it it would probably serve me well to order them before hand. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 1, 2022 Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 16 minutes ago, d.p said: I wasn’t saying it did. What I was asking was once I take the backing plate out of the equation am I going to beed more shins to compensate? Because if I do all that and I need to shim it it would probably serve me well to order them before hand. Again the backing plate is on the outside of the hub, the only thing removing the backing plate does for you is give you longer studs so you can bolt the caliper bracket on.... the shims are between the hub and axle housing..... you may not even need any shims so how would you know what to order.... I can probably even send you some, I have a bunch of extra new ones, depending on your thickness need.. Before you take both axles apart go through the end play check so you have an idea of where your starting... 1 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted May 1, 2022 Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 ...and find someone to tig those caliper brackets, and powder coat before install 😁 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2022 34 minutes ago, thisismatt said: ...and find someone to tig those caliper brackets, and powder coat before install 😁 Lol. I have a mountain of parts for this project, I mean a literal mountain of calipers, pads, rotors, lines, brake line bender, brake line straightener, brake line flaring tool, hose clips, hose mounts, brake nuts, speed bleeders and just ordered seals and bearings as well. I think at this point I have ordered everything that I could possibly need. Quote Link to comment
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