Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) 42 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Well when I did mine I noticed it was different than the stock seals. Would it work? yeah but I would prefere 2 lips. These would include the rear trans seal also. I seen single lipped ones. I think mine were Beck Arney packed ones . Cant remember if they were japanese. Rock auto back then All I know is what's listed as the outer axle seal is wrong for my application, I have no idea if the axle shaft and hub ever changed over the years or if the seals listed are just wrong .... Do you have any idea what part number you bought, or has it been too long since? Edited March 24, 2021 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Atleast my hunt for a correct seal turned up this.... same as what I showed before.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/132110448041 Sucks it's a bit more money so I really hope it works, but since its behind the pressed on bearing I'd rather have the best seal possible there.... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 This reminds of the front hub bearing problem. People list bearings for the 521, but they’re not right. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) Yea h look like it but look kinda all the same. My story is my drum had a leak from the center of the brake drum. Just so happens I met a guy from Guam that was throwing Datsun parts away and said you want a L20 motor ect. I said yes. well I told him about my issue and I thought I neede to change the inner seal also which requires a bearing puller . he said NO just change the outer seal that goes on the axle case and reinstalle the stub. So I ordered a SKF from the local inconvinent store and said shit that dont look like it will seal as the stock type so I ordered from Rock auto or another store that had a photo of the double lip version. I installed the axle and rested it on the seal cause I had to rest then said SHIT im going to oblong the seal but that has been at least 8-12 years ago and has been fine. Did the other side also. when that one went bad. I assume this fit the trucks and 510 wagons 25 $!!!!!!!!!!fuck thats alot of money for just a seal Edited March 24, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 3 minutes ago, mainer311 said: This reminds of the front hub bearing problem. People list bearings for the 521, but they’re not right. I just yank the whole hubs from scapped 521s call it good. Got 2 sets and still runing my stock ones 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 32 minutes ago, mainer311 said: This reminds of the front hub bearing problem. People list bearings for the 521, but they’re not right. I got bit by that issue too years ago, but was able to find the correct bearing.... I have a set of mikekotz's spacer to use a different bearing if needed in the future.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 If you can get the number off an original seal, or even one that isn't original, those numbers are usually industry standard numbers and will cross to many different manufacturers seals. I found a pic online of the 521 rear axle seal and it shows NGK 2081. I googled NGK 2081 and an National number came up on Rock Auto, with dimensions - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=253478&jsn=3 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 32 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: 25 $!!!!!!!!!!fuck thats alot of money for just a seal I know... I could get the skf for about $9 per plus shipping.... I did find the double lip for about $16 per plus tax and another $15 to ship.. The ebay one just combined all those numbers and I can get it quicker... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 4 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: If you can get the number off an original seal, or even one that isn't original, those numbers are usually industry standard numbers and will cross to many different manufacturers seals. I found a pic online of the 521 rear axle seal and it shows NGK 2081. I googled NGK 2081 and an National number came up on Rock Auto, with dimensions - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=253478&jsn=3 Those dimensions are way off.... Says almost a 4 inch od.... and almost 2 7/8 id..... Stock part number didnt get me too far, but it did lead me to the proper dimensions... I have spent quite a bit of time trying to crossreference.... What I posted was the best I could come up with..... 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Dont confuse inner seal(goes on the bearing and the outer(axle case/tube). As I did. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: I just yank the whole hubs from scapped 521s call it good. Got 2 sets and still runing my stock ones You guys always forget that we don't have junked Datsuns just laying around over here. We have nothing. Edited March 24, 2021 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Dont confuse inner seal(goes on the bearing and the outer(axle case/tube). As I did. I think your still confused or said it wrong.... Inner is the smaller seal that's installed into the axle housing... The outer goes inside the hub under the bearing .... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 11 minutes ago, mainer311 said: You guys always forget that we don't have junked Datsuns just laying around over here. We have nothing. Plus I have 2 sets of axles, one was leaking and the other was dry rotted, I'm not going to reuse those... so I need new seals regardless.... 1 Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 https://www.autelsale.com/wholesale/autel-maxisys-elite-with-j2534-2-years-free-update.html Here is the scanner that I was talking about. Its pricey. Two years of updates and 800 a year after that. It does the trick tho. The guy at the huge body shop in town uses it and highly recommends it. My buddy offered me his Snap On for 2500. His has this years updates on it. It looks like its around 1300 a year for updates on his. I am waiting to find out for sure. He is about to send me the model number. I think his is a Modis Ultra tho. Sorry for the delay. I saw him on st paddys day at my bar and asked. All he could tell me that day was that he was a Puerto Rican leprechaun. Lol Needless to say, he did not recall us talking. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 10 minutes ago, bilzbobaggins said: https://www.autelsale.com/wholesale/autel-maxisys-elite-with-j2534-2-years-free-update.html Here is the scanner that I was talking about. Its pricey. Two years of updates and 800 a year after that. It does the trick tho. The guy at the huge body shop in town uses it and highly recommends it. My buddy offered me his Snap On for 2500. His has this years updates on it. It looks like its around 1300 a year for updates on his. I am waiting to find out for sure. He is about to send me the model number. I think his is a Modis Ultra tho. Sorry for the delay. I saw him on st paddys day at my bar and asked. All he could tell me that day was that he was a Puerto Rican leprechaun. Lol Needless to say, he did not recall us talking. Thanks for finding out but that's a bit more than I'm looking for.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 I think I just figured something out.. the 620 calls for a different part number for the outer axle seal... nissan 43232-B5000 Which I found dimensional information about... It matches the national 1974 dimensions so there has to be a change to the axle and hubs with the 620 and 720... I'm giving some parts to another ratsun member with a 74 620, he is going to have to do that same seal so I'm sending him my national 1974 seals to see if they fit his hub and axle.. I'm really curious what he has..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 Well I have new axle shims and outer axle seals on the way.... should all be here by next Wednesday... That should be the last 2 issues solved.. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 I was able to get just about everything I could bolted up to the frame... Link bars just waiting for the axle.. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2021 I need some longer bolts for the bump stops... I added a spacer between the bump stop and frame so the bumpstop would hit a little sooner.... Only other thing I could do was finish up some electrical.... I made the final chassis ground and a couple last connections.... still have to hook up the gas tank sender... I was able to power everything up with no issue but had to replace a couple bulbs, not a big deal since I had some spares.... Since it was actually a bit late last night I couldn't use power tool so I decided to swap the bulbs in my cluster.... I used this style.. Of course after I bought these people recommended ones with leds on the side too... I think they work really well behind the indicator lights but I would agree they didnt make the rest of the cluster any brighter.... I order some other leds to light the rest of the cluster... I'm going to try blue and see how it looks... I have been thinking about blue accents on the truck like the seats, maybe part of the door panel and possibly some accents to the paint, maybe with the emblems.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 I finally finished all the wiring.. Gap tank level sender is hooked up , secured and functioning... Next I mounted the bumpstops to the frame.... I also found a couple 90degree zerk fitting ... added 2 to the lower links near the axle... they will be safe inside the bracket and I'll still be able to grease them.. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 23 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: I need some longer bolts for the bump stops... I added a spacer between the bump stop and frame so the bumpstop would hit a little sooner.... Only other thing I could do was finish up some electrical.... I made the final chassis ground and a couple last connections.... still have to hook up the gas tank sender... I was able to power everything up with no issue but had to replace a couple bulbs, not a big deal since I had some spares.... Since it was actually a bit late last night I couldn't use power tool so I decided to swap the bulbs in my cluster.... I used this style.. Of course after I bought these people recommended ones with leds on the side too... I think they work really well behind the indicator lights but I would agree they didnt make the rest of the cluster any brighter.... I order some other leds to light the rest of the cluster... I'm going to try blue and see how it looks... I have been thinking about blue accents on the truck like the seats, maybe part of the door panel and possibly some accents to the paint, maybe with the emblems.... Here is a write up by Madness on the LED bulbs he used. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 27, 2021 Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 Which bump stops are those? I think I remember you mentioning it earlier... Looks like they could be easy for me to trim. 620 needs some new ones and if they are slightly narrower even better. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 6 hours ago, demo243 said: Which bump stops are those? I think I remember you mentioning it earlier... Looks like they could be easy for me to trim. 620 needs some new ones and if they are slightly narrower even better. I'm not sure if yours are the same as a 521 or not, but these are 3" tall 2 1/2 wide made by daystar.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EOZE0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ELK7RGQDlcD1p They are a good width to fit the frame rail but I had to arch the mounting plate to match the frame, which was pretty easy... also the original bolt holes are not on the centerline of the frame, there was a 3rd bolt on a bracket to the inside of the frame to hold it.... Another easy fix just slot the mounting plate ... I did also have to grind alittle clearance in the rubber so I could fit a washer and a socket... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2021 I was able to do a little work today... The axle and last piece to the watts link are cleaned and metal prepped, now drying for tomorrow to be painted.... I also installed the 3rd member, with a proper seal, and a thin layer of gasket maker on each side to ensure no leak.... torqued to spec.... I figure it would be easier than trying to mask off the opening .... Only other thing I could do was attach the ebrake cable to the bracket.... Just waiting on the axle seals and I should be driving by next weekend... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2021 Round one done.... Axle Last piece of the watts link And I might actually have my seals by tomorrow.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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