demo243 Posted April 16, 2021 Report Share Posted April 16, 2021 5 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: No driving the datsun today.... Woke up to this.... Not to bad but seriously, it's the middle of april...... It actually got worse with elevation, this is the work parking lot..... At least 2 inches and it's still snowing.... 50 minutes ago, mainer311 said: We had snow in May last year. I think this is probably the new normal. I think the first cars and coffee is this Sunday as well. We even got some snow out near the coast in Topsfield... Didnt really stick or anything, but it was coming down. Bad enough that the town decided to salt the roads... Ugggg Hopefully they dont come around again and the rest of the storm will wash it away. I did see that Seacoast Cars&Coffee is having their first event this weekend. Probably wont make it though. Gonna try and catch the first one in Andover on May 2nd. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 16, 2021 Report Share Posted April 16, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, demo243 said: I did see that Seacoast Cars&Coffee is having their first event this weekend. Probably wont make it though. Gonna try and catch the first one in Andover on May 2nd. I saw that Andover one posted. A few friends are interested in that one as well, so I might go. Switch it up a little bit. I’ve heard the Seacoast one can get really big, so I’d love to go sometime. The one I usually go to is up in Derry, NH now. They moved it from Salem after the coffee shop closed. Edited April 16, 2021 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted April 16, 2021 Report Share Posted April 16, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, mainer311 said: I saw that Andover one posted. A few friends are interested in that one as well, so I might go. Switch it up a little bit. I’ve heard the Seacoast one can get really big, so I’d love to go sometime. The one I usually go to is up in Derry, NH now. They moved it from Salem after the coffee shop closed. I meant to get to the Andover one last year, but it just didnt happen. Seems like its a a little bit smaller/low key. Seems like the Seacoast one can get quite big - seems like that one could be on the fence though... watched some video of one of the ones last year with a fair amount a shenanigans as people were leaving and this year it seems they implemented a bit of a "requested donation fee". Ive done the Larz Anderson Cars and Coffee before too - but its more a pain then its worth... if your not there an hour before they open you end up down on the hill... took me three tries to get back up and out when I tried to leave. Hows the Southern NH one in Derry? Thats not too far from me. Edited April 16, 2021 by demo243 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 6 hours ago, demo243 said: I did see that Seacoast Cars&Coffee is having their first event this weekend. Probably wont make it though. Gonna try and catch the first one in Andover on May 2nd. Seacoast is a bit of a drive for me, I think 1-1/2 hours.. Derry isnt to bad at 1 hour, but Andover is only 45 minutes so I might be interested in meeting up for that if your going.... I think the last anything I went to was the Larz Anderson event at the end of 2019 ... 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted April 17, 2021 Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 19 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Seacoast is a bit of a drive for me, I think 1-1/2 hours.. Derry isnt to bad at 1 hour, but Andover is only 45 minutes so I might be interested in meeting up for that if your going.... I think the last anything I went to was the Larz Anderson event at the end of 2019 ... Japanese day at larz was the last event I went to as well! Really missed going last year, but we were playing things really safe. I’m planning on the Andover one. I’ll let you know. Not sure if I’ll go in the truck or the 510. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 Well I have been driving the datsun everywhere possible.. Suspension has felt great... Couple tweaks here and there on the ride height , I actually raised the front about 1/4 inch and added some taller bump stops.... The one thing I have been trying to figure out is the parking brake.... Everthing mechanically is working, If I just pull the handle it holds the truck on a hill no problem.. however the inspection station says it should hold still up to 1500rpm... it doesn't... For whatever reason I tend to take my foot off the brake as I engage the parking brake. Well this morning after I did that I thought, what if I hold my foot on the brake while engaging the ebrake.... That actually made the handle pull out a little further.... I tried reverse quick and it stalled the truck, but I had to get into work so I couldn't really test my theory going forward... 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 20, 2021 Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: however the inspection station says it should hold still up to 1500rpm... it doesn't. Fuck them!!!!! tell them this is 1960s tech on this truck, say you put brake on and leave it on gear was standard 1960s inspections tighten up the rear brakes and see if that helps 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Fuck them!!!!! tell them this is 1960s tech on this truck, say you put brake on and leave it on gear was standard 1960s inspections tighten up the rear brakes and see if that helps I wish it was that easy... Last time I went to the dealership because they were the only place local that was doing stickers last year... And how should I tighten up the rear brake? I converted to disk brakes.... 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 20, 2021 Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 Crap You got disks. I dont know How that works then 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 20, 2021 Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 (edited) This shop sounds like they're blowing smoke. I've never heard of this requirement in MA. That may work with an automatic transmission, but there's no way this will work with a standard trans. What if your car is 800hp and stick shift?? Edited April 20, 2021 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2021 16 minutes ago, mainer311 said: This shop sounds like they're blowing smoke. I've never heard of this requirement in MA. That may work with an automatic transmission, but there's no way this will work with a standard trans. What if your car is 800hp and stick shift?? Exactly what I was thinking.... Plus I keep giving it gas so it wont stall... All I'm doing now to test is I bring the rpm up to 1500 and as I let the clutch out If it stumble down with out moving I call it good... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 Again new England having fun with the weather.... We had some heavy rain now it got really cold again.... I swear I even saw some snow fall yesterday.. Was 35 leaving the house this morning, but it's going to be sunny all day.... so the datsun was the vehicle choice today.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 Oh and my idea for the brake didnt really hold true.... while I can set the hand brake easier with my foot still on the brake there is no difference in holding strength ... I'm probably going to go early in the month for a sticker just incase, but not to the dealership this time.... as far as I can tell everything is working like it should be..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 Could be the brakes just need to burn in a little first. Tighten up the cable as tight as you dare before you bring it. That might help too. You could always make changes to the lever length at the handle. A shorter throw has more torque, while a longer throw will make the cable move more. Get it? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 40 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Could be the brakes just need to burn in a little first. Tighten up the cable as tight as you dare before you bring it. That might help too. You could always make changes to the lever length at the handle. A shorter throw has more torque, while a longer throw will make the cable move more. Get it? I'm still using the dash pull..... I'm hoping I'm just over thinking it... I dont think I could honestly get anything any tighter without causing other possible issues.... I wish my old inspection shop was still open.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 What I meant was to tighten the cable as tight as you dare, just for the inspection, then loosen it back up after. Those pull style brake handles are useless. Can't get any leverage out of them. Of course, you could re-engineer it to have a lever on a pivot in between the handle and calipers. Like a bell crank. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Those pull style brake handles are useless. Can't get any leverage out of them. Of course, you could re-engineer it to have a lever on a pivot in between the handle and calipers. Like a bell crank. The stock 521 e-brake has multiple linkages for just that. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) Like I said I hope I'm just over thinking it.... when I engage the hand brake everything feels tight at the caliper and I'm not fully extended on the handle... They hold better than the drums ever did and I got the datsun to pass with drums, so I'm just gonna leave it alone for now.... Edited April 23, 2021 by Crashtd420 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 Ever since doing my swap I have to pull my e-brake handle way far to get it to lock. Too lazy to get under the truck to shorten it up (not even sure how) but not sure what happened between before and now to cause it to have to travel so far to lock. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 8 hours ago, d.p said: Ever since doing my swap I have to pull my e-brake handle way far to get it to lock. Too lazy to get under the truck to shorten it up (not even sure how) but not sure what happened between before and now to cause it to have to travel so far to lock. Its extremely easy, there are 2 turnbuckle underneath... One along the frame rail near the back , and then the one that goes through the frame in the center that the cable wraps around to go to both wheels, that's adjustable too.... plus your actual drums might need adjustments.. Another reason I did disks, no more adjustments... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 21 hours ago, mainer311 said: The stock 521 e-brake has multiple linkages for just that. For more leverage, the lever could be extended. I haven't seen that part, but my guess is one could modify it in an hour or less. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 Not much happening now, just driving the truck as much as possible, and working on just little things here and there... I did start noticing a little oil spot under the motor... I noticed my oil spray bar bolts have been seeping oil so I added some orings to help control that.. in the process I found all my valve cover bolts were just barely holding on, so the gasket was also leaking.... i tightened everything up so hopefully that's good for now..... I did finally get a scanner tool for my newer cars.... I wasn't trying to spend alot but anything below 250 was kind of a waste.... I ended up settling on a Innova 5510 which was about that.... I was debating on the next model up which is about another 100, but didnt give me a whole lot more based on the vehicles we own..... Once I started using it I realized something was wrong.. Apparently Amazon sent me the next model anyways..... and why its easier to just let me keep it is beyond me.. I even returned something one time and they processed the return and said just keep it... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 The o rings did the trick , no seepage around the spray bar bolts after I drove to work this morning... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 Well I think I have an issue developing.. I have been running a Carter p4070 electric fuel pump which is rated at 4-8 psi for about 4 years now... When I first was running it the pump was outputting about 7psi so i used a pressure regulator to bring the pressure down to 3-3.5 .. Has been fine for a while but lately it's been dropping pressure... I have read that the regulator needed atleast the 7 psi to work properly... I have also seen my fuel filter get sucked dry then slowly fill back up.... So I did an experiment and bypassed the regulator and checked the psi.... just the pump by itself was outputting a hair above 3.5 psi.... on start up this morning I had almost 5psi but by the time I got to work it was at the 3.5psi.... at least bypassing the regulator kept the fuel filter full..... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 So my question what electric pump would be recommended? I'd like to simplify things and eliminate the regulator if possible... So second question is, if necessary, instead of a return line coming from the carburetor fitting could I put a tee right after the pump to create a slight return to bleed pressure instead? My thought is to install a restrictor in the return line to regulate .... would it be better for the pump? 1 Quote Link to comment
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