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My 1967 RL411 Station Wagon - Canby or Bust!


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No!  I replaced the original hanger too many years ago before the luxury of photo option mobile cams and do not want to dissassemble for the sake of an late request!  The original hanger that I offered is guaranteed to fit since I removed it from my original factory RL411 sedan.  Late owner butchery is not my responserability!

 

 

 

I meant of the cross member. I should be able to repair it, but I need to know what it is supposed to look like :)

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I used 520 brake hose .. or early roadster mix and match,, BUT rockauto shows some hoses ( for the roadsters) as the right ones but they come with female ends on both ends, and we thought they sent the wrong ones ( which they actually were )  by accident ,,,, on further inspection of R-A pics they ment to sell them that way ..  The 520 rear is a tiny bit longer than stock but fit just fine on mine.

 

Mine are the same on both sides but i don't have one of those new fangled engines that need have exhaust running out the body. Or disc brakes,,,,,,,,,,,, yet.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So for historical reference here is the car your rear seat came out of..  Have been out there visiting numerous times since i picked it up,,,  but camera has been forgotten every time,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Until now!!

 

 

 

 

 

Ok ,, in your best stereotypical  Asian voice,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Waaaa Taaah !!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

You're talking about those weird offset ones with the little "tangs" ??  I will ask ,, how many do you want? 

 

Probably give you his number if he is cool with that,,and let you guys American picker it out and just scoop them up for you when you guys come to an agreement .

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Looks like I am tackling a new shifter cable and choke cables. I went to a couple different local mfgs and none of them make car shit anymore. I found the maker of the volvo cable that I found. They have no record of it.

 

I measured the cables and they are pretty standard. 1.5mm (.060) cable and 6mm OD housing. The trans cable has a 5x5mm barrel on the end that attaches to the trans.

I just ordered a bunch of new cable and housing from here. I will see if I can make 2 cables out of the parts I have. Can throw the extra in the spare tire well just in case.

 

https://www.motionpro.com/product/01-0055

 

 

Tore the choke assembly apart. It's pretty straight forward, I did have to come up with something to replace the wheel spring. Found a piece of plastic that worked out pretty well. I can replace the cable and housings as soon as the parts get here.

 

Here's a bunch of pics showing how the choke cable works and comes apart.

 

 

Pull the knob out about halfway and you can work the cable end off.

 

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Broken spring

 

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Replacement

 

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Temporary reassemble until the new cable stuff comes in.

 

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All in all the choke and trans cables should cost less than a new choke cable from datsunparts, I will be ordering the new grommet from them though. :)

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So file this under 'learn something new every day'... 1/8 NPT 27 is basically the same as 3/8-24 and both will thread onto 3/8-24. 

 

 

So my brake lines are all 3/8-24 and with that resolved Brad sent me my new stainless brake lines. :thumbup:

 

Thanks for the free mag :D

 

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Installed one to check fitment, still need to install the other 2. 

 

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After installing that one I decided to swap out the pads. Looks like a new rotor is needed. Raceneely has a line on some, but the price is pretty high. Not sure what I'm going to do about this yet...

 

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Cable supplies came in yesterday so I'll be working on those starting with the choke cable. :)

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Choke cable was super easy. 

 

Materials

 

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New cable on the plate

 

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Old vs new

 

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Just a touch of heat and the old housings slid right out. 

 

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I opened the holes with a drill bit just under the housing size of 6mm. Used the shaft end first to work the crimp out and then cleaned it up with the cutting end. 

 

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I used epoxy instead of crimping. It should last as long as the crimp and will make it easier for the next guy that has to do this :lol:

 

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Installed the new cable.

 

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No pic of the reassembled switch, though it is put together. Now I need to fix up the plastic mount on the dash and order that boot. :)

 

 

I need to get a specific barrel end on a cable for the shifter cable. I have a pretty good plan now that I successfully rebuilt the choke cable.

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I swapped in the drivers side brake line and pulled the pads. Looks like I pulled them just in time.

 

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Also worked on getting the control pod fixed up and reinforced. I heart epoxy. :)

 

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Lot's of stress cracks and the surface was real wavy.

 

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Used a large faced washer for the main reinforcement. I epoxied it to the back side as shown and then clamped it between 2 pieces of 3/16 plate.

 

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The masking tape is to protect the plastic.

 

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Then I dug into the new exhaust leak. I thought it was maybe a blown gasket but they ended up looking pretty good.

 

Broke the banjo fitting when pulling the old fuel line....

 

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Just a little passing by at collector flange.

 

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Found the new leak once the carbs were out of the way. :lol:

 

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The patch looks ok. Planning to see if I can get new flanges cut and build a new header but for now..more patches.

 

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Gasket looked pretty good.

 

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Not bad for a Sunday. :)

 

 

I did try to figure out a way to make a new 5mm barrel for the end of the transmission cable, but none of that worked. I am going to get some 5mm aluminum rod and will try to make it from that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got into it with the trans cable. Turned out not too shabby. :)

 

 

First I needed a 5mm x 5mm barrel for the end of the cable. I had thought about ordering some material but I found this just laying around being useless lol.

Drilled a 1.5mm hole through it.

 

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Sharpied it up for some scribe action.

 

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Cut it down to size

 

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I pulled the cable through and then silver soldered it. Had to clean it up a bit with a cutting wheel and a file.

 

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Factory fit :D

 

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At this point I figured I could start dismembering the volvo cable. A little heat did the trick again.

 

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I used the drill shaft idea again and it work well. Minimal material removed and back to a nice slip fit. Oops made it a little short. :lol:

 

 

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Then came the hard part, I tried heat to get the clevis to release the cable. Turns out the cable just gets real hot and breaks. I ended up grinding the clevis flat and drilling a new 1.5mm hole. The cable in there pushed me a little off center but I think this will still work just fine. I did drill the hole all the way through, this way I can set the final length after driving the car to check the shift points.

 

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Both ends on the wire.

 

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I also test fit the volvo cable fitting in the trans to make sure there won't be any issues once the cable housing is attached. It has a smaller hex on it so it should be fairly easy to do the final tightening.

 

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Old vs new/fabricated cable. Once I epoxy the fittings I'll install it on the car.

 

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So far if I count the cost of the wire and housing as a wash for repairing the choke cables, this cable only cost the $40 or so that I paid for the volvo cable. I still have a bunch of wire and housing left over too :cool:

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