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My 1967 RL411 Station Wagon - Canby or Bust!


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Thanks. Hard work but satisfying as each piece becomes functional again. 

 

I'll be addressing this today and then maybe I can start assembling the intake and exhaust system. I scanned the gasket so long term a custom exhaust manifold will be built.

 

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Some more progress on this. :)

 

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These pains in the ass are behind the seat deep in the spare tire well. :lol:

 

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Ewww

 

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Newwww

 

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Got those bushings at a Canby giveaway one year. :D

 

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This ugly thing was where the battery goes, don't think it's stock...

 

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I think they used bondo or something...still wasn't all the way cured in places.

 

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Cleaned up real nice though.

 

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You have a good start on the battery.  You are missing the plastic tray that the battery sits in, fill it with baking soda and forget under hood corrosion.  If you want the correct replacement battery, have the vendor search on 1964 Corvair, it's the only other vehicle that uses this original long narrow battery [i kid you not], some trucks might use it but that has not been my experience.  Use an universal battery hold down rod set and cut and toss what you do not need.  For the crossbar, given the odd arrangement of the original battery cells [front to back, not across the battery width] use an aftermarket Honda holddown bar, Hondas used batteries with a similar width.

 

For shocks, somewhere in this vast trove of knowledge I have posted Sears life time warranty gas shocks which are a direct bolt in and have the proper response for modern radial tires.  Good luck with "search" function, it does work.

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Mmmmmm new under bits....

 

 

Looking good :thumbup:

 

 

I dig it! looking forward to seeing how much drop your going to get. 

 

 

Thanks guys :thumbup:

 

 

You have a good start on the battery.  You are missing the plastic tray that the battery sits in, fill it with baking soda and forget under hood corrosion.  If you want the correct replacement battery, have the vendor search on 1964 Corvair, it's the only other vehicle that uses this original long narrow battery [i kid you not], some trucks might use it but that has not been my experience.  Use an universal battery hold down rod set and cut and toss what you do not need.  For the crossbar, given the odd arrangement of the original battery cells [front to back, not across the battery width] use an aftermarket Honda holddown bar, Hondas used batteries with a similar width.

 

For shocks, somewhere in this vast trove of knowledge I have posted Sears life time warranty gas shocks which are a direct bolt in and have the proper response for modern radial tires.  Good luck with "search" function, it does work.

 

I don't run lead acid batteries anymore :sick: .

 

I have a brand new optima sitting next to the car waiting to go in. I will make a custom hold down bracket for it, should work out nicely compared to the giant battery that was in it. 

 

The monroe shocks I got bolted right up. I can get the part numbers if anyone wants them. :)

 

 

That battery area looks like shit!!!  LOL

 

You all are gonna give the hippy a big head!  LOL

 

 

Yep, still need to kill the rust and seal it up. :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made an exhaust brace out of some 1/8" plate I have in my stack.

 

First I welded up the crack...which turned out to be a bit propagated. The whole are was pretty thin where the brace was trapping heat. I had to stack welds to make it thicker. Hopefully this will last a while so I can drive the car some. :)

 

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Then I chased the threads in the flange as well as the ones in the block. Flange is 5/16-18 and the block is 3/8-24.

 

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A little CAD work.

 

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And make it for real.

 

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There it is.

 

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Paint is drying via heater right now.

 

Should be plenty sturdy. I will be adding some other hangers as well to help support the exhaust all the way back.

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The first exhaust hanger in front of the resonator/premuffler is suspended from its frame attach bracket  with 2 rubber isolaters to absorb some engine vibration/motion.  Do you still have the original?  Originals usually have the rubber isolaters is bad shape after 49 years but can be restored by building up the rubber with sucessive layers of RTV.

 

By the way, bolting up that stud next to the center dual exhaust is going to be a real bitch!  There is almost no clearance between the intake, exhaust and engine block the fit a wrench but it can be done!  The trick is to move both headers toward the fender leaving just a few threads protruding.  Thread the nut on to the stud by hand and then start moving the 2 manifolds toward the block.  A thin wrench like the type used on bicycles might be in order.

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If you want a visually improved lower radiator hose, not a corrugated universal one buy part number 71379 it's braided like the original and a little triming will duplicate the bends and spacing of the original exactly.  I do not remember if that is a Gage or Firestone part number but the stores have interchangeability listing and a knowledgable parts clerk should know the manufacturer by the part number.

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If you want a visually improved lower radiator hose, not a corrugated universal one buy part number 71379 it's braided like the original and a little triming will duplicate the bends and spacing of the original exactly.  I do not remember if that is a Gage or Firestone part number but the stores have interchangeability listing and a knowledgable parts clerk should know the manufacturer by the part number.

 

The hoses on here are in good shape. I will check on this part number for a spare though, maybe change them when I get a better radiator. 

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