metalmonkey47 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Over the period of about 3 weeks this has happened 3 times. I've tried to trace it when it happens, but have had no luck finding the cause leading me to believe it might be electrical. 1st time: Pulled out of work hard, made it in 2nd gear to 5500 and it just choked and shut off. Pulled over to the side of the road, popped the hood. All looked as it should, had fuel, no loose connections... Turned the key and the truck fired right up and drove off without a problem. 2nd time: Pulled out of the grocery store, under the same conditions, gear, RPM, failed at the same time. Pulled over, turned the key, it fired right up and drove away. 3rd time: Tonight pulling out of the hardware store, didn't make it past 1st gear, the truck stalled, started bucking like a wounded horse and died. While rolling I turned off the key and back on again, and it fired back up and I drove away. Nothing is loose anywhere, Tested secondary resistance on IGN coil: According to MSD... Should read about .355 ohms. Reads .455 ohms. Small variance. Primary reads right on spec @ 4.4K Ohms. No loose connections. All of my connections are tightly soldered and heat shrunk, or some crimped ring terminals and heat shrunk at the coil. A guy I work with, old school genius suggested worn out contacts in the IGN switch. or worn out ignitor in the dizzy. Ign switch seems like a likely cause...but I'm just looking for suggestions and feedback at this point. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Run a jumper from the battery to the dizzy and coil +. Use caution it isn't fused. This will jump around the ignition switch. Take it out and try to get it to stall. If it does it again then it isn't eh ignition. Is the dizzy fully grounded? I mean don't assume check or run another wire to ground. 3 Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 check coil wire and all connections near coil mine was doing a similar thing ant it was the coil wire arcing to one of the terminals 1 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 dumb question but how full is your fuel tank? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 datzenmike has a good point to narrow it down quicker. Some of the matchbox's I've had I needed to take the module off ... clean the contacts ... apply gel/grease packet .... re-install = problem solved. I purchased another car where ... distributor bushings were so bad .... the car would cut and die ... :blink: ... replaced with a test distributor and all was well = diagnosed. ( I like to pull the distributor's out to check play .... it just makes sense ... purely preference and not based on fact .... aawww yeah !!! ) The pickups in these EI distributors will go bad as well .... don't be fooled. Some E.I modules (especially non NISSAN OE's) do go bad as well ... pretty sure you know this all too well from Autozone ... according to hybridz.org every now and then so do the Nissan ones. Distributor caps ... the cheapy's ... will fall apart ... pull off and inspect-o yo !!! Have you been driving through puddles .... or mini-lakes on the highway by chance lately ? I'd test your coil as well .... carefully 10 times ... lol .... I had a bad one straight from Mallory .... :( .... those bastards .... :lol: ... ;) ( I was sure it was something I did until everything was tested .... replaced the coil with 2 others ... sure enough ... !!! ) Like Ranman said as well (my experience to) ... Occasionally some of those cheaper coil wires (not plug wires) will freaking LEAK EVERWHERE AND ANYWHERE IT CAN .... :lol: .... I mean spark show !!! .... I got some thicker more robust wires after that .... :lol: Coil resistors do go bad (pillow-block) ..... most of the time it's the contacts .... I'm not sure if you have one at this point ? ( sorry ). I imagine it wouldn't be neccessary , but hey you know your truck setup better than I do !!! :D An ignition switch ... would indeed do so as well ... I had one "start" to fail .... so I've replace both on my z-cars just so I wouldn't have that problem when driving to the coast ! ..... easy peezy to replace :D ... it's really a maintenance item as of now with the age of our beauty's ... lol I kind of wonder if you weber is starved of gas ... :lol: :hyper: :D Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Check the magnets in the dizzy for cracks. 1 Quote Link to comment
exit64 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Sounds like a coil going south. Run it at night in a dark area with the hood up and look for arching from the secondary to primary wires. You might see some arching that you can't see in daylight. Hard to diagnose. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 prolly the ignition switch.. before mine melted, it would kill the truck like it did the 3rd time for you. outta nowhere, the truck is off and your slamming against the steering wheel wondering wtf just happened.. the weight of the keys is what killed mine.. when i would take off, the keys would rock back, and then forward making the cylinder in the ingition switch move. but then it melted and now its gone. i replaced it with a turning knob switch from a 60s battery charger, and have a push button for the starter. never had the issue again.. Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 more MG pics = more answers :poke: :poke: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 wrong forum randy... Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 we dont care post them there and we can answer questions here :devil: :devil: :devil: :devil: 1 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Run a jumper from the battery to the dizzy and coil +. Use caution it isn't fused. This will jump around the ignition switch. Take it out and try to get it to stall. If it does it again then it isn't eh ignition. Is the dizzy fully grounded? I mean don't assume check or run another wire to ground. Right on Mike, that's an awesome idea :thumbup: I'll try that for sure. I'll run an extra ground to the dizzy tomorrow. check coil wire and all connections near coil mine was doing a similar thing ant it was the coil wire arcing to one of the terminals :thumbup: On it! Earliest convenience I'm tearing into it. dumb question but how full is your fuel tank? Only dumb question is the one not asked. About 1/4 tank, but I've had it happen around a full tank datzenmike has a good point to narrow it down quicker. Some of the matchbox's I've had I needed to take the module off ... clean the contacts ... apply gel/grease packet .... re-install = problem solved. I purchased another car where ... distributor bushings were so bad .... the car would cut and die ... :blink: ... replaced with a test distributor and all was well = diagnosed. ( I like to pull the distributor's out to check play .... it just makes sense ... purely preference and not based on fact .... aawww yeah !!! ) The pickups in these EI distributors will go bad as well .... don't be fooled. Distributor caps ... the cheapy's ... will fall apart ... pull off and inspect-o yo !!! Have you been driving through puddles .... or mini-lakes on the highway by chance lately ? I'd test your coil as well .... carefully 10 times ... lol .... I had a bad one straight from Mallory .... :( .... those bastards .... :lol: ... ;) ( I was sure it was something I did until everything was tested .... replaced the coil with 2 others ... sure enough ... !!! ) Like Ranman said as well (my experience to) ... Occasionally some of those cheaper coil wires (not plug wires) will freaking LEAK EVERWHERE AND ANYWHERE IT CAN .... :lol: .... I mean spark show !!! .... I got some thicker more robust wires after that .... :lol: Coil resistors do go bad (pillow-block) ..... most of the time it's the contacts .... I'm not sure if you have one at this point ? ( sorry ). I imagine it wouldn't be neccessary , but hey you know your truck setup better than I do !!! :D An ignition switch ... would indeed do so as well ... I had one "start" to fail .... so I've replace both on my z-cars just so I wouldn't have that problem when driving to the coast ! ..... easy peezy to replace :D ... it's really a maintenance item as of now with the age of our beauty's ... lol I kind of wonder if you weber is starved of gas ... Funny you mention it, I actually pulled the dizzy off a few weeks ago and pulled the EI module off to inspect it and look at the vacuum advance to see if it was sticking. Haven't seen any water lately, so I know that's not it for sure :fu: But the rest I'll check on! Only think that weber is starved for is air ;) Check the magnets in the dizzy for cracks. Never woulda thought about that :thumbup: Sounds like a coil going south. Run it at night in a dark area with the hood up and look for arching from the secondary to primary wires. You might see some arching that you can't see in daylight. Hard to diagnose. Will do hoss :thumbup: Thought it sounded like coil, but with primary/secondary resistance checking out it's a hard call. prolly the ignition switch.. before mine melted, it would kill the truck like it did the 3rd time for you. outta nowhere, the truck is off and your slamming against the steering wheel wondering wtf just happened.. the weight of the keys is what killed mine.. when i would take off, the keys would rock back, and then forward making the cylinder in the ingition switch move. but then it melted and now its gone. i replaced it with a turning knob switch from a 60s battery charger, and have a push button for the starter. never had the issue again.. Buddy of mine is trying to convince me to go to a 60's Mustang switch, for the heavy duty contacts. I'm thinking the switch could be plausible. I've been through about 10 of these switches from the backing plate that holds the contacts separating from the barrel. Fixed the most recent one by JBWelding it together. Stupid cheap switch. Just FYI for anyone, DON'T BUY Wells ignition switches. more MG pics = more answers :poke: :poke: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :fu: I do need to update that, don't I?? hahahaha 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 You running a MSD box? try runiing with out it just use the matchbox . or swap another dizzy in there. DTP covered the rest Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 At idle, wiggle the key around. If it cuts out, there's your issue. I've had that happen. Easiest thing to check, anyway. In the case of mine, the dash idiot lights and gauges would go dead at the same time it cut out, though you generally don't notice that because the gauges are slow and the idiot lights weren't on to begin with if it was running. I pulled the parking brake lever out a click or so to light up the brake light, when I wiggled the key it would blink. 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 ^^ that... thats how i noticed it was happening too.. i have to keep the ebrake pulled a bit to take up the slack of the bad back shoes. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 No MSD box, just pure matchbox Datsun ignition. I wonder if I can dig up a test sheet for my GEN III Wells tester at work and test the module. I started the truck and jiggled the ign switch around a tad. No change, so that's out of the equation. It happened again today, but this time under different conditions. I was driving along in 4th at about 60mph spinning the motor around 4000ish RPM's and it just stalled. Pumped the gas a bit trying to see if I could recover it, kinda focused on everything the motor did looking for any telltale signs of other issues. Just died. Tried to run a bit, not just an abrupt stall like it's been lately. I noticed when I stopped the truck and started it back up, it took a few turns over to fire up. I revved it, it idled, so I took off hard. It made it home, but I had an off idle stumble, and under light throttle missfired like mad. If I open the throttle a little more and drive harder it seems to be a little more stable and stopped missing, but this things so powerful I just can't open the throttle anymore. I've had those same issues since the truck started acting up, but this time it has multiplied and was acting like a major bitch. At first I was thinking fuel starvation, but it seems if that was the case, I wouldn't have seen any kind of fuel from the accelerator pump, since the feed hole is 1/4 up the bowl or so, and the truck would have continue to run if I pumped the throttle. Also, it wouldn't begin to run better at wide open throttle where more fuel is required. Hmmmm..... think I'm just gonna go ahead and toss a new IGN coil on there tomorrow and see how it reacts. Seems like that could potentially be the root of all my problems. Also gonna pull the dizzy and inspect the pieces and contacts. Gonna unwrap all of my ignition wires as well and inspect all the soldered parts. Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 Mine does this too, my problem was the ignition switch when it died just shut off the key,coast a little and turn the key back to on. If I turned it back to soon would get huge backfire, blew the muffler all to hell has happened at slow speeds and going down the freeway as well Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 If it stutters as it shits off it may be carbs. Next time it quits get the clutch in fast and don't allow the motor to turn and pump gas. Now check the carb and see if the fuel is low. Did you jumper the bat. to the coil/dizzy to eliminate the ignition switch? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 had similar issues in the 521 twice once it was a loose connection on the match box which sounds like u have eliminated........ the second and more challenging time was the ignition switch was bad ...... and I accidentally fixed that , luckly Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 I had a similar prob with my matchbox in my 521. Replaced the module and it fixed it. Got mine for about $45 on eBay. Good luck. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 I got a hooker on ebay ..... had to open a case ... not as advertised.......I wanted legless and they sold me above the knee amputee.. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Got it figured out! The little faggot took a shit this time and died and this time, didn't start back up. Turns out my brand new fuel pump.....yeah..... mechanical piece of shit stopped pumping. Hooked up an electric pump (4.5PSI 30gph) and it runs without hesitating now. Fucking cheap parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Awesome glad you figured that out buddy !!! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Cool beans!!! And Jrock, too much hooker time and not enough datto time. Lol. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 *Needs moar hooker time... 1 Quote Link to comment
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