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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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Ok so now that I've become somewhat familiar with the needed ECCS harness I wanted to double check my conclusions.

 

It appears that the S12 and Z31 pinouts are basically the same...the difference being the color of the wires. I do not have a pinout for the S12, but judging from the Can Am box wiring diagram that Icehouse has kindly provided it seems almost identical....the first relay replaces the factory fuel pump relay with ECU pin 20(y/b)..(yellow/black for z31) with ECU providing ground for the circuit, the second relay is activated by B+ voltage through the ignition switch and controls the ignition through pin 34

(w/b)...(green/white for z31), and the third relay replaces the EFI relay and powers up the sensors/controls through pin 27 and 35, ECU pin 6(orange)...(red for z31)

 

Am I missing anything other than the brown wire tied to the ignition circuit?

 

Thanks

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I believe I may have worded that poorly. I realize the red and black/white wires go to different slots, and after thinking about it, eccs 1-3 are all connected so I wouldn't need to put them in the same slot. That just leaves me with the red wire.  Where I'm trying to put the can/am box is close enough to the ecu that the red wire is still two wires. I just need to be sure if they both need to go to the box or just one.

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I'm putting a KA 24E Manual transmission in a 79 210. How do I go about obtaining the Can/Am box? I read great things on this site and Datsun 1200 club, but I must have missed how to order. Thx

 

 

unsure if you know, but I'll share info anyway.......

 

to make the KA a bolt-in affair, you will need the engine cross member from a 1980-1983 S110 200SX -OR- a 1978-1981 510 (A10 model) and use stock S13/14 engine mounts.

 

You will then use the bell housing from a 71B trans (Nissan 720 pickup) on your stock gear box.

 

careful, that H160 rear end won't hold up long.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

 

88Z31VG30ECAN-AM.jpg

 

 

 

 

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S12VGCANAM.jpg

 

 

 

 

The S12 is not my favorite harness to work with. Nissan incorporated some of the harness with the chassis harness and also changed some of the colors of the wires after going through a plug... I will include a link to a scan that Chris made after getting his approval.

 

 

Every harness should be completely stripped down, that way wires can be shortened and lengthened to fit your application. Unneeded wires can be removed, and the harness can be made to look like it fits your car. If there is one thing I hate, it's scary looking wiring. There should be NO floating wiring, strain reliefs should be used, and MOST of all, there should be grommets every time a harness goes though any sort of metal, AKA a firewall! 680 cold cranking amps cooks wires really fast; always use fuses or a breaker as close to the battery as possible.

 

 

Every thing about the VG diagram is pretty straight-forward, except the brown sensor wire in the drawing. It powers a few needed components like the fast idle solenoid, but also powers the EGT solenoid which isn't needed. Cutting open the harness will allow you to remove unneeded wires that are tapped onto this wire. This wire never goes to the ECU so it has no pin number.

 

If anyone local is going to do the S12 VG, let me knowl I will come help and get some pictures to make this a bit easier.

 

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CA18DET%20CANAM%20BOARD.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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KA24E%20CAN-AM%201.jpg

 

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S13KA24DECANAM.jpg

 

 

 

 

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%2095KA24DE%20s14.jpg

 

 

 

 

The S14 harnesses are also not my favorite, for more than one reason. First off, the are decoy wires. Like TWO black with pink wires coming off the ECU, which just makes things a little more tedious. Then Nissan decided to use spray phone to seal the firewall grommet, aka a bitch to remove. Last but not least it was ton's of extra plugs that need to be removed, stuff like the wiper motor wires....

 

 

 

 

 

 

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SR20DET%20CAN-AMBOX.jpg

 

 

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S14+kouki+SR20DET.jpg

 

 

 

 

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SR20DET+S14+ZENKI.png

 

 

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S14+SR20DE+NON+TURBO+.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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I still have the old faithful diagram posted, once I get all the engines done it will be deleted but I can't bare to do it just yet.

 

 

 

s13%20wiring%20diagram%20pic%20file.jpg

 

 

 

 

All but 3 of these connections are made at the 2 or 3 plugs (depending on the engine harness) there are 3 connections made at the ecu tach ground and starter signal. I will post KA-510's car as an example.

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  • 4 weeks later...

See page one of this thread. All the diagrams are there for the can/am box which can be used without the box. However, if you take the time to read the whole thread, there are other diagrams posted by other people and lots of useful details. Do your research, most everything you need to know is in here.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Everything seems to be wired correctly but i don't seem to be getting any starter signal (starter is good and ECU has power) is it only the orange wire hooked to the solenoid or do I need another wire? Normally wouldn't ask but I've been racking my brain for too long

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I don't mean this to sound rude, but do you have the main battery cable connected to the starter? You asked if there is only one wire. There should be two. The starter signal wire from the key and the main power cable, the positive cable from the battery.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I did pm Icehouse no response as of yet. I did find a ka24e upper intake from a Stanza  and one from a 240sx both could be made to work but the FWD model has more off-set .I just need to play with making a mold to cast a lower intake .if it works out I may sell the lowers to convert L motors .I also noticed that a company makes a larger upper manifold for SOHC Turbo hi flow intake plenum. and could then just bolt on to my lower intake for more flow.

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  • 4 weeks later...

New problem

 

 

Fuel pump randomly cuts off

 

Can box fuel pump light does not come on !

 

 

Then I changed the relay from the eccs to the fuel pump and vice versa

 

And all of a sudden it works

 

 

most likely poor fitment / loose relay. 

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