inline4 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 A relay will only buzz due to the coil charging and discharging very rapidly. This will only happen under one of three conditions.... - voltage supplying the relay drop under 10V - poor connection ( positive, or ground side ) of relay. - damaged relay; possibly coil. Don't forget, a poor connection also means dirty, loose, or corroded connection. I'm leanin toward bad connection then. I took the relay wiring, with the ecu and hooked it up to the battery and it clicked normally. Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 A relay will only buzz due to the coil charging and discharging very rapidly. This will only happen under one of three conditions.... - voltage supplying the relay drop under 10V - poor connection ( positive, or ground side ) of relay. - damaged relay; possibly coil. Don't forget, a poor connection also means dirty, loose, or corroded connection. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Check all connections. Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Check all connections.grounds or wires? I used a relay harness for each of the connections Quote Link to comment
BADime Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Anybody have a wiring diagram for where the 510 harness alternator wires go on the KA alt? Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Wire colors match, don't they? And if not......... Google this "510 wiring diagram" Easy, no? Quote Link to comment
inline4 Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Wire colors match, don't they? And if not......... Google this "510 wiring diagram" Easy, no? I did it both ways, exactly as the diagram, then I rewired it like mine (I have an extra relay n the trunk an my fuel pump runs off straight battery) still buzzed. No matter though, badime rewired it according to the diagram and got it going. Quote Link to comment
BADime Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Got it figured out! Thanks Quote Link to comment
Drew_B Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Hey guys long time reader 1st time writer! Total noob but just wondering if anyone could help me? I'm swapping a ka24e into my 84 720 and I'm no good with wiring and was wondering if anyone could tell me what is needed and How to do it... I will be using and 89-90 240 intake and engine harness.. Any help is appreciated Quote Link to comment
yealla 521 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 where can i find these for my swap on my 521 i m going ka24de for gas prices hahahah Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Message icehouse Quote Link to comment
bk whitest Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Man you answered my prayers a simpler way of hooking up my KA thanks a lot dude !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
DatsRite Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I've been searching for a way to simplify my KA24DE swap and ICE HOUSE has done it. Awsome write up!!!!!! I haven't found any companies in the US that makes a plug n play wiring harness for KA24DE swap into a 510. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Glad I read this last page. I was wondering why one of my relays was buzzing, and I was checking over diagrams over and over to make sure I didn't wire something up in correctly. My ECU power relay is going nuts. I've confirmed that the relay is good. Next up is to tighten up all the wiring to and from that relay. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Ooook. Cannot figure out the ECU relay. I've tightened up all the wires, swapped relays, created new ground locations... but the relay powering up the ECU keeps buzzing. To confirm: Constant power to Pin 86 and 30. Pin 85 connects to Red/Black, which has to ground out at the ECU, because the 12v coming in at pin 86 has to go somewhere. So... When I send 85 straight to ground, the relay kicks over just fine. When I wire it back up to the Red/Black, it buzzes. Ideas? Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Oh, just noticed... The relay will not buzz if I disconnect the line to Black/White. So something there may be interfering. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 isnt 30 and 87 the hight current contacts to route power 85/86 the coil contacks. I assume the red blk is not grounding or gorunded right? Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 My error, I looked over the diagram and saw what I did wrong. Ok. Everything is wired up. Sr20det is cranking... but no ignition. Seems like no spark. Oh, the joys of a fuel injected engine... Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Does anybody know off the top of their head which(if any) of these wires are not necessary to a CA swap into an older Datsun? I ask because I'm dealing with a harness that has been cut off at the ECU plug, and the less wires I have to track down and splice back together with the other harness segments, the better. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Got my relays fixed. It was a wiring error in my part. I managed to get my engine to kick over, too. However, I can only get it to fire up by pouring gasoline into the throttle. I'm not getting 12v at the injectors. Which wire at the can-am relay box provides the injector power? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Red is the injectors on a S13 SR. The red also goes back to the ECU for backup power. Did you cut it and so it's not getting to the injectors? Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Hm. I did wire in the red to my relay box, and if my memory serves correctly, that relay is fed by a switch next to my starter button. It is possible that I have a broken connection in there. Quote Link to comment
jovial_cynic Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ok. I've confirmed 12v to the red that came from the big grey plug. I did cut it from the plug and wired it directly to a switch that supplied the 12v. I think I'll need to trace the wire up the harness to see where it splits off to the injectors. I've found some "modifications" that the previous owner did to the harness that I've had to fix... and this may be another one. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 That's pretty common. These motors get swap around like crazy. Kids nowadays aren't afraid to just start hacking away at the wiring. I'm sure it's something simple like that. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Question: On an inductive style factory tach(power wire, ground wire, and then a wire that runs through an inductive pickup), in a non-distributor setup(coil on plug), would it work if I cut into one of the coil wires, redirecting it through the inductive tach wire, and then back to the other end of the coil wire? Thank you. Quote Link to comment
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