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UnderControl

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UnderControl last won the day on February 24 2021

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    Indy
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    '05 V6T Mustang, '73 KA-T 620

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  1. Running out of bits to remove. This is supposed to be a quick rewire job, so I should probably actually work on the wiring part. Got the switch wiring figured out, and it's really not all that bad to keep 99% of the original functionality, while being able to eliminate 5 wires out of the left switch. In my case I'm choosing to be ok with the kill switch being wired backwards, while being a fun joke for would be joy riders. Also got the base configuration setup.
  2. Box tacked to the tray, and hooked the starter wire up to check for fit. While it reaches with room to spare, I may still make a new one a little longer to tuck the wire behind the frame better. I did make this a bit deeper than the cardboard version to have more room for activities. Also left the front off until I have the wiring mostly in. Followed that up with more disassembly.
  3. Electronics tray now has a hole in it. Got started on the actual box as well. Maybe should have trimmed it up a little before starting to tack it together. Some other parts rolled in. Maybe the most interesting of which are these cheap knockoffs of those moto gadget indicators I like. I feel like these might be larger than the nice ones, but they are 10x cheaper and are cleaner than the stock ones. The headlight bracket will be getting replaced as well. Not sure how I feel about the white running light, but do like that the white shuts off when the amber signal is triggered. Definitely think I'll end up painting the area of the lenses that would otherwise shine toward me. Clip of testing the lights. https://i.imgur.com/bl6idBv.mp4
  4. If it helps the manual makes it sound like classic Japanese bikes are the only problematic switches. At this point m unit installs on basically anything are well documented, and with aftermarket switches should be basically plug 'n play. Funny/sad story about the harness that's in my 620. Got it from a buddy after he scrapped an mx6 project he could never get running. Took me longer than I care to admit to figure out that the Datsun ignition switch is wired differently from the Chevy switches the harness was designed for. Friend was down right angry (at himself) after I told him how I fixed it.
  5. They sure do, and some of the best looking indicators on the market. Considered a full set of just the indicators would set me back more than I have into the m.unit and wire kit, I'll skip those for now. Keeping the original switches does mean I either have to get a little clever about the wiring, or learn to live with slightly different functionality. This is just the basic version, it's discontinued, but floating around at some retailers/eBay. the wiring kit is from revival cycle. I don't want an app for every little thing, and as far as I know the app is 90% for doing the base configuration. It can also be used like a key, but so does my key or any other RFID device you could want. The alarm feature can notify your phone, but only in Bluetooth range so really limited.
  6. I'm really trying to not like these cars, and this one isn't helping that cause.
  7. Got the bike sprayed down so it's nicer to work on. Then on to laying out the electronics tray. I'm sticking with the original battery box for now. I'm fairly partial to the side covers so no real reason to relocate it, but there's a pretty clean spot just to the rear of this tray for a battery tray.
  8. Riding season is fast approaching, so I should probably get to this season's bike project. Didn't strictly need to strip it this far down, but it's so quick and will be much easier to clean everything. The primary objective here is to update the electrical system and replace broken switches. Clicked the easy button for this project, but it's quickly become the standard for re-wiring old bikes. Planning to stick with original switches, although I'll need to source a replacement for the right side. Otherwise I'd like to get the headlight mount and front signals swapped out and probably call it good there for this go around.
  9. Tested the carriage lock and made a mess. Surface finish is expectedly terrible, but I was able to actually face and bore the first roller. Actually touched the Datsun today, but just doing maintenance so nothing exciting.
  10. Turns out after re-drilling the hole for the alignment pin on the bucket it didn't take much filing if the holes to get everything lined up. It isn't 100% but better than some factory fitment, and as good as it'll get until I get them both blasted and work on fixing up the cracks. I would have started blasting them today, but... I'm pretty sure capacitors aren't supposed to have holes in them. I actually have a few big capacitors in stock, none of which are correct for this motor. Oh well, turned attention to a start on a carriage lock for the lathe. Nothing special, a piece of 1/2" in a bit of a wedge. Still needs some filing to get it to sit flush across the top. It'll get two bolts horizontally into the carriage and have one vertically into a t nut under the bed.
  11. Front end back together, and this time actually bolted the hood and hinges in. Next up I think shall be getting the driver fender lined out. The mounting nuts for the headlight bucket are less than perfectly positioned. Coupled with a bit of a banged up bucket makes for a pretty shitty fit of the forward extension. I don't have enough material around one of the 3 remaining bucket bolts to fudge it by slotting. 1 of the mounting tabs is broken off on each side because they all do that. Since the buckets are presumably pot metal fixing them should be a treat.
  12. Top corners are welded up and the rest of the weld finished to as far as I think I'm going to take it.
  13. Short shop weekend. Got the frame of the tubing roller welded up. Still need to add a base to the extensions, but the hard part is done. Funny thing about adding 1/2" to the width of the main section of the frame. Pins don't exactly fit in the inner holes. I'll probably just go ahead and order some 20mm rod to make longer idler pins. The drive axle I can just turn the shoulder down a bit farther.
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