]2eDeYe Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 You could walk in to this one...and have enough room to turn around and walk out again. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Not everyone can afford a giant drive your truck and trailer in oven like you. fixed it.... seems u should feel bad for your little bracket taking up so little room in my GIANT TURKEY COOKING CAVE..lol..... ps i wasn't bashing i was just saying sometimes i wish i was that guy ... with my shit all low overheady...don't mistake my jealousy for anger... its not...i have a smaller oven too....i use it on the weekends for my little shit...and stuff i don't wanna fire up bertha for... had a tall oven similar to above before ... works great if theres a hole on one end and it hangs straight... but we couldnt hang bumpers from road armor or spyder cause they tend to not hang straight they pendulum away and are just tough..... and i will only hang and put a hook mark in a hole that a bolt goes through...... hook marks are the devil....look llke they did the old tack a washer on the part trick in pic... which is fine but then u have to touch it up .... most likely with paint which just makes a potential failure point...our oven i can hang anything in anyway any fashion... i wll tell u though on occasion we have had some real failures in the oven ... once a hook breaks or a part falls ( which the only times its happened has been big shit )....u gotta shut down and figure out how to get this hot ass heavy part the fuck out of the oven...if its small u can run in grab it and yank it out...we had a awning frame break a cart ... and we had to shut down and let the oven and the part cool before we could drag it out and re do it...that day we had a long lunch at the go kart track....but luckily we had been doing those awning frames for a week so it didn't slow down production other than the long lunch...(i came back buzzed as hell from the go kart track...) what, u have to have fun when 2k pounds of steel goes all yahtzee on your shop floor and makes your ears ring for the better part of 4 days...) Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 and i will only hang and put a hook mark in a hole that a bolt goes through...... hook marks are the devil....look llke they did the old tack a washer on the part trick in pic... which is fine but then u have to touch it up .... They are the devil, hooks and shadow lines! That portion with the washer will get covered in weld when it's welded to the frame rail and touched up with paint anyways. :) Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 duh i forgot it was being welded in.... Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 nice homemade oven! how hot does that thing get? is it made out of old doors? Quote Link to comment
Trailermade Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 nice homemade oven! how hot does that thing get? is it made out of old doors? Thanks. its made out of fire doors and metal shelving :) it holds at 500° though we dont need it to get that hot. Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 #200 for a soft ride.... #225 is as stiff as anyone should ever run (especially in the back) Says who? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Say's Indy lol. What spring would you recommend for the rear Duke? Mounts are mounted...still awaiting coilovers. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 fuck u dont need the coilovers... put her down and let her eat asphalt till they show... post oics please to ...need fap material... wife works all weekend... Quote Link to comment
troyt Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Here's how I did mine if it helps - 2 Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 For spring rates on a street driven, cruiser, 510 Indy's suggestions are in the right range. Maybe a little (250#) stiffer seeing as the rear of a wagon is a bit heavier than a sedan. It seems like this car is more of a DD cruiser, so nothing crazy is needed. I was just chiming in on what Indy said because for a real performance 510, I thing 300# or higher wheel rates are what is needed. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Here's how I did mine if it helps - Your goon is soo cool. :cool: We've been drooling over it for research. You can see we borrowed your cross member design. Thanks for the updated pictures. I like the mid plate you added, and the cage really ties everything together nicely. For spring rates on a street driven, cruiser, 510 Indy's suggestions are in the right range. Maybe a little (250#) stiffer seeing as the rear of a wagon is a bit heavier than a sedan. It seems like this car is more of a DD cruiser, so nothing crazy is needed. I was just chiming in on what Indy said because for a real performance 510, I thing 300# or higher wheel rates are what is needed. Yep, it's a cruiser. they are looking at 200# coils to start, easy enough to change them later. I assume 300# coils really help with body roll while cornering? Quote Link to comment
troyt Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 On the race wagon I'm running 300# front/250# rear, with adjustable sways 1 1/8" front/ 3/4" rear. That's on the soft side for a race car, lots of guys run 350 front/ 300 rear for race 510s. When talking to folks about rear rates, make sure you're talking coilover and not OE config, big difference. Also the angle you mount your rear coilovers will effect the required rate. The more laid over the shock/spring, the stiffer it will need to be for the same relative rate. For a sporty street version, I'd probably drop the front to 250#/1", and leave the rear at 250#/ 3/4" since you'll have the occasional passengers and cargo. Since you raised your diff as I did, the rear control arm angles will remain relatively flat, so stock halfshafts should have a long life. (edit - for a true daily driver, I agree 200# is more than enough, my 250 suggestion was just thinking about track days) Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Says who? Troy Ermish . .. he reccomended #200 for a 510 sedan street car ... I got #225 front and rear, and have about an inch tire clearance, and hardly ever rub The danger with oversprung rear coilovers, is the rear inside tire will lift, while cornering ... also you can't run cheap shocks in the front with anything stiffer than #200... I tried the #225 front coils on my WAY heavier 710 wagon with a KA24DE,, and thought they were too stiff, just like in my L16 510 ... it's a harsh ride, but acceptable with 3" of ground clearance or less .... keep in mind Duke is daily driving a full inch or more lower than I even comprehend as a possible ride height, and most 510 race cars only run #275-300 front springs. If she wants to go crazy low in the front, you might need to shorten the 280zx struts,,, but then you can't go high enough to enjoy driving a 510,, which IMO is 3" or higher at the front X-member.... and/or 4" flat at the rocker panel seams front and rear Quote Link to comment
Trailermade Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Here's how I did mine if it helps - Nice man we saw the pics from underneath but not how you tied it into your cage.P.S We stole your rear crossmember design Thanks :) Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Bummer losing the cargo space Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 @Rustina ... It would be cool to see someone do a sort of push-rod suspension setup on the rear, to keep clearance yet not cut into the cargo bay. I dunno if its practical with 510 IRS. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Bummer losing the cargo space Haven't lost any yet. :) Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 I could live with a detachable strut bar. Most of the time leave it in, but if I actually need to remove it I should know better then to actually race the thing. Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 2eDeYe' timestamp='1349137952' post='767869'] Haven't lost any yet. :) ? Then did you remove the back seat? Also bummer if so? How the hell? Their is that dam roll cage on the wheel well? Full cabin photo please. Quote Link to comment
DatWifey Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 You guys are talking about two different goons now.... Redeye is referring to the one that the thread is about, saying that it hasn't lost any cargo space yet, and the other photo of the rollcage is troyt's...... Are ya followin' me here? ;) Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Weld a nicely gussetted lever to the top of the arms and point the shocks perpendicularly forward of the arms, over the rear crossmember...? Man, I'm a genius. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Bummer losing the cargo space There is more than enough room for all the cans of whoop-ass that caged race wagon hauls around.. And welcome to you Trailermade. Quote Link to comment
Dattokai Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 This makes me want to keep my crossmember pink. Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 You guys are talking about two different goons now.... Redeye is referring to the one that the thread is about, saying that it hasn't lost any cargo space yet, and the other photo of the rollcage is troyt's...... Are ya followin' me here? ;) 10-4 it was confusing for me. Quote Link to comment
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