]2eDeYe Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Sweet it's in the shop. :D Does Dillon's have paint? I got a couple weeks off myself, first time evah :) Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 HAHAHAHA, it's on Jeff. This means that I will have to get my super short struts done by Canby and get new springs for the rear. If you are raising the x-member then you will most likely win, but I will try and put up a good fight. But dude, that post seriously made me laugh. haha :D I was hoping it would make you laugh :D I'm not really a fan of building crossmembers, its way to much work but I don't like my setup, after doing Dillon's I've learned even more. I think this next one will be my best. I want to keep it close to factory but with R&P :D What struts are you going to run? I'm thinking of sticking with my VW ones, they are short and I already own them :D Going to school and putting together a car is a bitch!!! i cannot beleive someone jacked your shit, i hate theives :( errrrr! if i still had my Megasquirt i would send it to you for shipping, but i traded it for the MR2 seats.... Dude tell me about it! I put so much love in the MS box... My blinging turbo.... Life goes on...... 2eDeYe;106354']Sweet it's in the shop. :D Does Dillon's have paint? I got a couple weeks off myself' date=' first time evah :)[/quote'] No Dillon's car is in primer, they don't have the money right now, Frank is thinking maybe after the blue one is sold. This is my first paid holiday week too! Yeah :D Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 So I started building rack version 3, I thought I would try the stock x member and mod it. At first it seemed to be going fine.... Until we installed it then we hit a problem, the steering shaft is under one of the engine ribs. I don't know how important the rib is, there isn't one on the other side.......... I have some ideas which I will explain after the pics so you guys will have an idea of what I'm talking about. Those 2 tapped wholes don't do anything, if I buzz the lower one off and the mohawk, with the addition of .5" to the left with the engine back .5" more and up .5" it should be good... It's kinda weird how it everything measured out to .5" haha :D I guess it is late. I think the steering link will have plenty of room after all that, I will only tack everything together and make another test fit to see if anything else needs to be moved. I also need to move the LCA pivots but thats another story. I have a few options 1. Raise engine: I had already planned on raising it as high as possible to add extra ground clearance, I had hoped to raise the x member with it but it seems that isn't going to happen.... 2. Move rack to the driver side by 1/2 inch: This would help with clearance around the "mohawk" which I would still like to smooth out. 3. Remove "Mohawk": I think it's going to have to go either way, there is just no way around it. 4. Scoot engine back 3": haha yeah I don't even want to go into detail on the work that would take. We also test fit a turbo that feel into my lap just for fun :D It's on a top mount mani that came with a car Frank bought a while ago. If I use it I will definitely build a bottom mount mani, install it where it belongs :D Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted December 28, 2008 Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 hey jeff, I understand that you want more ground clearence, but why move the engine up? The engine is the heaviest thing in the car and center of of gravity along with 'polar moment' (I believe that's what I'm thinking of) are more important... Why wounldnt you just take out some of the depth of the oil pan an add width? Are you doing rear sump on this one? Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted December 28, 2008 Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 hey jeff, I understand that you want more ground clearence, but why move the engine up? The engine is the heaviest thing in the car and center of of gravity along with 'polar moment' (I believe that's what I'm thinking of) are more important... Why wounldnt you just take out some of the depth of the oil pan an add width? Are you doing rear sump on this one? i think its because sr's are really sensitive in the oil pan area.. small dents an stuff can cause major damage.. i have seen custom oil pants i think its called a "dry sump" or something like that but they're $$ Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted December 28, 2008 Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 looks nice, How much Hp you think it will be putting out and that turbo looks huge. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 28, 2008 Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 I'm certainly no "motor" guy, but since you said the other side of the motor doesn't have the rib and pylons.....I'd said the rib is simply re-enforcement for whatever is supposed to be mounting to those bolt holes. Maybe that's a motor mount placement in a different application? I would think that you could cut/trim them down, but that's a complete guess on my part :) Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 hey jeff, I understand that you want more ground clearence, but why move the engine up? The engine is the heaviest thing in the car and center of of gravity along with 'polar moment' (I believe that's what I'm thinking of) are more important... Why wounldnt you just take out some of the depth of the oil pan an add width? Are you doing rear sump on this one? I agree but when your pan is only 2" off the ground it needs to be raised :D I would like 4" but I think I'm dreaming. I understand it raises the center of gravity but it's not a full on race car so it sees a lot of bumpy roads. i think its because sr's are really sensitive in the oil pan area.. small dents an stuff can cause major damage.. i have seen custom oil pants i think its called a "dry sump" or something like that but they're $$ Yeah that too! looks nice, How much Hp you think it will be putting out and that turbo looks huge. If I run it I will let you know :D I'm certainly no "motor" guy, but since you said the other side of the motor doesn't have the rib and pylons.....I'd said the rib is simply re-enforcement for whatever is supposed to be mounting to those bolt holes. Maybe that's a motor mount placement in a different application? I would think that you could cut/trim them down, but that's a complete guess on my part :) That is exactly what we thought, I keep thinking about what exactly I'm going to do about this problem..... I keep think more and more about moving the rack over an inch. full lock is useless in a slammed car anyways and I don't want the motor to flex and lock the steering.... Well tomorrow I should have some answers :D Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 28, 2008 Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 4. Scoot engine back 3": haha yeah I don't even want to go into detail on the work that would take. Yeah,,, I think that would be too much firewall hacking:D Once you cut into that cowl drain there is no going back, believe me I know:blink: Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted December 28, 2008 Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 I think moving the rack to the side should be fine. You will want to set your steering stops up properly. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2008 I agree Steve that is about all I can do, I figure if I do a little of everything it should work.... I was hoping it wouldn't be such a bitch! Hopefully there is a safe amount of clearance when I'm done. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted December 29, 2008 Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 ah, ok. How much of the trans tunnel will you have to cut to move it up? (I've never seen an at swap in a dime in person.) As far as those threaded studs and the rib, I'd have to agree with mike... I'll have a look at my wires g20... It's got the jdm sr in it but supposedly all sr's share the same basic block. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 29, 2008 Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 Which rack is it? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 ah, ok. How much of the trans tunnel will you have to cut to move it up? (I've never seen an at swap in a dime in person.) As far as those threaded studs and the rib, I'd have to agree with mike... I'll have a look at my wires g20... It's got the jdm sr in it but supposedly all sr's share the same basic block. Dillon's engine is VERY close to the hood and still has 2.5 Degrees tilt back. We had to mod the tunnel near the shifter but that was it. But his engine isn't as close to the firewall as mine.... If you remember the pics on the other page moving the engine forward in my situation will just make shit worse.... Which rack is it? It's an ZX manual rack (almost as rare as a 68 2 door :D) I find it odd that when I want replies on what I'm building I don't get that many, some threads blow up though... Weird.. I guess it's just a tough question. I didn't think it was going to interfere so badly. I was worried though. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 Yeah,,, I think that would be too much firewall hacking:DOnce you cut into that cowl drain there is no going back, believe me I know:blink: Did you sell your car? I wouldn't mind cutting the car, really its just a SUPER beat 510 most people wouldn't even waist there time. With next quarter coming up quick I just don't see the time I need being there. Shit I would tub frame the front in a heart beat if I had the time. I think moving the rack to the side should be fine. You will want to set your steering stops up properly. I keep thinking this is the only way to make it work.... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 29, 2008 Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 Yeah, I thought it could be that. What's the length difference compared to the MR2 rack? I've seen other racks with the shaft coming off at more of an angle which might help you, but they might not be as narrow. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted December 29, 2008 Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 Iceman, Nelson welds the S12 rack mounts onto the back side of the 510 crossmember. Have you talked to him lately? You may want to give him a call.. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2008 Yeah, I thought it could be that. What's the length difference compared to the MR2 rack? I've seen other racks with the shaft coming off at more of an angle which might help you, but they might not be as narrow. Yeah that would be helpful in this situation! HHMM but that brings me back to the search for the perfect rack... Iceman, Nelson welds the S12 rack mounts onto the back side of the 510 crossmember. Have you talked to him lately? You may want to give him a call.. I remember Nelson telling me about that back in the day. Maybe I need to do some more measuring.. I just don't want to run such a wide rack, something narrow so I can keep the suspension narrow. I would like to run some serous meat up front. Frank has 235's up front of an unflared car, I would like something nice and big as well, a wider track width isn't going to help. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 It work!! Doing a little of all our ideas worked :D The steering shaft now has enough room!!! Yes I may have lost some full lock but thats what a LSD rear end is for, right :D Worked on the 510 stuff all day, slowly it gets there. Here are some pics of my very accurate jig haha One of the engineers I work with came into the weld shop to see what I was doing, he said I had to take of the company hat while I built the x member because all of my talerances are so big. I tried to explain to him its just a datto X member, its not like the car was built to some high spec or something :D I told him as long as everything is within an 1/8th of an inch I was happy, he said at EE (my work) we try to stay within 5 thousands. haha :D I moved the X member forward 1/2" I need to reinforce it somehow I will save that problem for tomorrow. I made this classy jig to keep the mounting points where I want them, it was difficult since the 620 mounts are so damn rubbery but with a few extra measurements I got them pretty damn straight. after removing the original mounts, I forgot to take a pic of my tacked somewhat temp mounts... O well The engine bay somewhat stripped, must get it done so we can start another one. The snow really put a damper in out plans. O one more comment about the engineer buddy, I was also trying to explain that 1/2" was just the numbers I made up, well numbers that "might" work. So as long as everything was even side to side it was good enough :D Damn Mechanical Engineers giving me a hard time :D The can be handy too, Carter gave me some great tips this morning :) Quote Link to comment
510_Dillon Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 oops, did you want the inside striped too jeff? haha my bad. :D i hope your happy. haha i had to take a picture of my car :) Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Soo, in other words, a little bit of work on the steering and turbo turned into a complete rebuild and overhaul of the car eh Jeff?:lol: Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 haha I guess so, at least the exhaust is done :D Quote Link to comment
endubguy Posted January 2, 2009 Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 jeff rais that motor ashit load and drag subframe please u know u want too :lol: Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 jeff rais that motor ashit load and drag subframe please u know u want too :lol: Dude I wanted to raise the x-member but I can't :( There is no room even with the motor almost hitting the hood.... Using a narrow rack kinda fucked me in the long run.... I have been thinking about getting an MR2 rack just to see if it would allow me to raise the x-member... Now that the whole car is stripped I have my work cut out for me. I have a list in my head of things I would like to do better than last time. Frank is in charge of the shinny paint :D I've said it before, "one day I want a Datsun worth washing" hey making goals is important :D Getting it really low is the highest priority though :D O if I have to build another x-member so be it! Quote Link to comment
endubguy Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 rock no hood! lolz:lol: jk but let me know if you guys want a hand or a beer buddy i live like 8 minuts from frank so hit me up on my cell 425 891 4690 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.