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mklotz70 1969 wgn


mklotz70

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about 6.5 I think. One was an old can...wasn't spraying real well....so you might make it on 6 good cans, but I'd go for 7. There was a pretty good breeze blowing at the time too.....no wind would have used less paint too.

 

Even at $10.97/can, it's still one of the cheapest ways to get the semi-gloss look. It blends so well it isn't funny!

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I know I should be working on the lower control arms or on Mend, but I just had to finish the drop on the wgn :)

 

Since it was up in the air, thought I'd pop the drums and see what's up. Looks good, except for the glaze on the shoes. Foam sanding pad got rid of that quick! Figured as long as they were off, might as well bead them a bit :)

 

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The first pics shows that the Superior brand blocks won't work safely on the '68. Neither the spring mount or the diff pad are long enough to reach the end of the block. On a cast aluminum block...not good! I don't remember having that prob on the '72. I had extra'72 brackets up until the scrapper came a couple of weeks ago. Geez....ya hang onto something for years, finally decide you don't need it, then 'bang'....you find a use for it. Oh well. So....I pulled out a chunk of steel I've had for years and made my own :) I used existing holes to save some work having to drill new holes. I used a left over strut shaft as the metal to make the pin out of. The outer layer is hardened....once you cut through that, it turns nicely. On the spare '72 springs I was using to mock up...the leaf alignment pin is bigger than on the '69 springs. I almost drilled the hole too big! Good thing I checked the dimensions against the '69!! ...oh...and in the final assy, I put the block between the spring plate and the diff pad...not between the leaf and spring plate as shown in these pics. I started that way hoping the plate would reach the end of the block. Anyway......

 

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Because the new U-bolts are a bigger diameter, you have to elongate the holes in the bottom bracket. You also need to "pinch" or bend the U-bolts to the smaller diameter of the 510 diff housing. After I got everything mounted...just snuggly, I measured from the front spring mount to the diff pad. Got both sides to match....if you don't, you're rig will "dog walk" down the road. Ever notice how a dog's rear end is always off to one side as it walks? The car will do the same if the back end is not aligned. Once the measurements matched, I cranked them tight. Follow the instructions on torque specs. Once I got them gutentight, I cut the excess length off before I torqued them. They were too long for a deep well to fit over.

 

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AND THE RESULTS!!!!!! Exactly where where I want it!!!!!!! I'm tickled pink!! Still a long ways to go to put it on the road, but at least it looks good where it's parked!! :)

 

 

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I'm seriously considering putting 3/4-1" spacers on the back!! Those rims are perfectly centered.....I could add 30mm of tread w/no prob!! But...it would start to look pinched on those rims.

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LOL! It's what I had! If I had some 2" thick wall, I probably would have used it. The 7x12 bandsaw went through it in less than 3 min....so they were really easy to make :)

 

They're heavy enough to add traction!! :)

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I bought that rear end from Doug V. When I put it in the car, I removed the horribly unsafe lowering blocks that were in the car when I got it. They were cracking and just all wrong. I "did" the rear brakes at that time. The drums were used for the SY, but well within spec. The hardware, wheel cylinders, hose and linings were all new..

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Thanks guys. I'm finally starting to like this car! I have to put it aside for a bit, but I think I might finally be starting to feel like it's mine.

 

I'm liking these rims/tires a lot better than the 300zx setup......in fact, that setup will be up for sale in a bit.

 

I think the back brakes are just fine :) The fronts on the other hand....?!!! I think I'll be putting the 280zx stuff on before this hits the road.

 

I think I'll see about bumpers and grill next. Not sure just when....need to clear up some other things first :)

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Hey Mike,

 

You mentioned that the U-bolts are a little larger dia than the axle housing. What size did you use, and where did you get them? When I got a lowering kit for my 521, people listed exact part numbers that would fit, but I haven't seen anyone mention what fits a wagon axle. I think my pickup is 3", but the wagon looks like 2.5". A lot of the places online don't list specs, just applications, and I haven't found one that lists 2.5" dia.

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It was just the cheap Superior kit that Knecht's sells. I never found a smaller kit when I did the first wagon. Everyone I talked to said they just bent the bolts. Some of the guys simply bent the ends together to go through the holes, then kept tightening the nuts until the u-bolt got sucked up tight to the axle housing. The same kit goes right onto the trucks, but needs some work for the wagons.

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Thanks guys! I put the grill back on today...much nicer. It's going to take some work to put the bumper on...broken bolt, missing nut. I've got to get some other stuff done, so it's parked in the hole again.

 

I like the rake too.....but it plays hell with the front end alignment since they weren't built with my caster to begin with. So....I'll take care of that later....with the next set of struts :)

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