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Phlebmaster's 1972 Chevy C20 truck project


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very nice. the camel humps were the shit back in the sixties. now they make good boat anchors.

like someone stated above, get a set of stock vortech heads out of the junkyard and you will make more power with those than ported camel humps.

 

if you use the vortechs, remember you have to use a different intake manifold. you will also have to use different exhaust manifolds as they have the exhaust ports raised a little. for exhaust manifolds you can score a set of used lt1 covette exhaust manifolds for really cheap, which already have the exhaust ports raised and are very similar to your ram horn stock style exhaust manifolds.

 

i have done this swap myself a couple of times. the only drawback is that you cannot run more the .450 lift unless you have screw in studs and better valve springs.

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Aaron, grind the chrome off the back of that timing cover where the gaskets goes or it will leak oil.:D

 

Why the 4/7 cam swap? I know they make more power, but it is generally reserved for race motors.

 

I bought the chrome cover with the heavy duty seal already installed...so it shouldn't slip out. lol

 

The 4/7 swap ....well, I got a good deal in this brand new cam and lifter set-up so that's the only reason. I will need to get a dual exhaust to make it sound right, but she is coming together nicely.

 

I will post my youtube of before and after as well as pics of my first sbc tear down and rebuild. :D Chey is anxious to help with this one.

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LOLZ at you guys!! :lol:

 

 

Well, after much research and discussion with those who know about what I plan on doing with my engine I have decided to do this one step at a time rather than all at once.

 

Tonight I put my new intake and Holley 750 on. :D I will install my cam once I get heavier springs. I can tell you this about the stock crap that was on my truck...the intake had a bunch of loose bolts and all of the fittings were not tight either. It is a wonder it even ran! :P I fixed that though. :)

 

I will not be able to test this new stuff out untill I get a new water fitting that runs from the intake to the heater core.

 

Here are the obligatory pics of the swap!

 

So it begins,,,,

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Now that feels better already! Damn that thing is heavy!!

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All finished for tonight...I can't wait to start her up tomorrow! :)

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My Unhappy Holley Days. lolololzzz

 

Here is what happened........

 

I finished puting the hoses and such back together and filled the radiator so I could start her up. That went great! She started right up and roared to life when I put the throttle to her. I test drove the truck a bit and found that I was flooding out.....so I took the truck back to my work area and looked at the carb. The secondaries were very wet and gas was just pouring onto the butterflies.

 

So the next day I went and bought a "Holley" rebuild kit and went to work on the carb. Everything looked good and I even had the floats adjusted right. Then I went to start the truck and gas just sprayed everywhere!! I tried it a few more times adjusting the float needles to closed even with the same results.

 

So I thought..ok, maybe the secondary float is bad so I replace that with a brass one. No luck! Same situation. Finally as a last resort I bypassed the secondary fuel inlet and ran it to the primary side only to see if that made a difference. I made sure the secondaries would not open while I tried this. She fired up and ran...but like crap! So I put the Q-jet back on to see if I could get it to run again. The Q-jet just spewed gas out through the top and I even had a fire or two or maybe three But I got them out in time.

 

My guess is the Q-jet was not the problem....it was all of the excess fuel in my cylinders that was creating the fireworks and fuel spray. Now I am not going to waste anymore time or money on the Holley which I purchased for $60.00, rebuilt for $45.00. I am going to look for a carb that is known to run before I buy it. I may try the Q-jet one more time...I don't know yet.

 

So anyway...now I am going to pull the heads and finish the engine work I started out to do because I am worried about cylinder wash issues. I know if I have that much fuel being poured into the cylinders they can ruin in fast order. I will pull all of my plugs first and do a compression test before I pull them so I can have numbers to compare. (BEFORE AND AFTER)

 

I got me a set of heads.... Now before I tell you the casting numbers I want you to know that they are machined, rebuilt with new springs etc...They are in very nice shape with no valve wiggle or sunken valves.

 

ok..so now you can blast me.... these are "081" non-swirl port center bolt 305 heads with 1.84/1.5 valves. I think they have to be better than the 624s I have now. My engine has a date code of 2/9/74 so my guess is that I have dished pistons, but if I have flat tops then I will wait on the 305 heads and put the 624s back on....thus the "before" compression check.

 

I have to try and not be frustrated by this and look at it like another opportunity to learn something new and make what I have better in the process. My truck will be down for awhile however due to the weather and my time to work on her. But in the end I will be happy that I did not rush through this.

 

Now I will be looking for a carburetor (edelbrock) and some heavy springs for my cam.

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stock fuel pump??? if not then it might be pumping more fuel into the carb than the floats can stop. hence the flooding. throw a cheap regulator on it< if you can find one for cheap or borrow one and see if that helps.

 

Yeah, I thought about that too. But I have a mechanical pump that should not be pushing more than 5-7 psi. I will see if I can get a fuel pressure gauge to test that.

 

Thanks! :)

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should not be pushing more than 5-7 psi. I will see if I can get a fuel pressure gauge to test that.

 

holley reg (low pressure) w/the cheap 1" gauge. very handy :D

 

did you changes the needle seats too?

 

 

 

might wanna invest in an extinguisher... or 2 :P

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holley reg (low pressure) w/the cheap 1" gauge. very handy :D

 

did you changes the needle seats too?

 

 

 

might wanna invest in an extinguisher... or 2 :P

 

:lol:

 

I put new seats, new floats, new power valve etc.... I think I will just swap out the carb, the fire danger thing doesn't sit very well with me especially if I have my daughters in the truck. :rolleyes:

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Hey Aaron,

 

Ouch ! Have you thought about the metering rods/blocks ?

 

The carburetor guys out in Milwaukie,OR ( Savas tuning ) "say there is a lot of crap that eats , grinds , and deforms some of the carburetor internal bodys/parts" They also told me it is very common to have bent , cracked , and disformed internal pieces as well when people bring in cores for rebuild. ( They wanted $250 a piece to rebuild my Holley 390cfm , when the thing costs like $275-$300 new ! :fu: , but they also tune it for that price :D)

 

Sometimes the cheap rebuild kits are not quite up to specs though ? ( many times they work great :D ) But a lot of stuff is made mass production China style ! I have found all of the lawn mower carb rebuild kits I use to purchase/repair with whether name brand or not are definetly hit/miss.

 

At of all of the After-market thermostats I have bought in my life 50% of them are defective ! I bought a brand new defective fuel pump for my 71' 240z ( air bubbles in line , until replaced another new different brand then wen't away )

 

If it were me ,:thumbup:

 

(1) I would definetly check fuel pressure (As suggested above:)

(2) Is there an Internal Fuel Pressure Regulator at the Inlet ?

(3) ( Metering Jets on my old 87 Suby wagon were stuck open full throttle on the free way once , remedied by sticking whole disassembled carburetor parts in Carb Cleaner for a long time , Rebuilding , then learned I ruined a lot of plastic parts by exposing them to the carb cleaner doing so , including the throttle bushings :blink: ! ) Ohh the accelrator pump was bad too :mad:

(4) Brother Works at a shop with a guy that rebuilds quadra-jets on the side. He said that the guy uses all kinds of different needles (of the same part #, new) to match per carb when setting the float level ! I guess there is a casting plug on the very bottom made out of lead that people forget to replace when re-building the quadra-jets and have problems with them after they rebuild them at home (puking fuel for those kind) ?

(5) Also he explained that setting the float level is extremley difficult to get right if someone else has already messed with it ??? :eek:

(6) I was told by this guy to never take out the butterfly valves myself ( I can't remember why , but a line-up degree issue ??? )

(7) maybe you can take it too a specialization carb shop that will diagnose it for free if you promise to give the work to them if you have it done by a shop ( knowing you will do it ! :thumbsup:)

(8) Once I forgot to count the CORRECT amount of times each adjustment was put in at by factory internally/externally, and that carb never worked right , but good thing that came out of that was it was a long time ago :lol: :rollseyes:

(9) Longshot , but is it a vacuum issue ? ( clean surfaces with brake clean , but do not clean the Carburetors with Brake Clean I learned , the stuff will be eaten away :blink:

 

Sorry to hear , just like to help :)

 

Opps , talk too much , back to looking for my 71 DATTO conversion stuff

 

DTP

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Thanks for that Holley info. :)

 

I started to tear apart my motor tonight so I can put my new heads on and make sure my cylinder walls are ok.

 

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I have dished pistons so I can get away with the small chamber heads I am going to use. :D

 

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A little paint for show....

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The 624 heads that were on my truck are the 1.72 valve!! :( I am glad to not have to use them any more. Now I have a set of 1.84 1.50 valve 58cc heads. :D You can compare the old head on top with the 58cc head below.

 

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Edited by Phlebmaster
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wow that engine looks terrible.. how many miles? put some chevron supreme in her an some full throttle action..

 

After I get finished with this motor Super is the only thing I will be able to run. I am looking at 9.5- 10.5 compression with the new heads.

 

With those anemic heads on there and the rich fuel deposits in te cylinders I can tell that this motor has not had a long road trip in a long time.

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