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My 77 620 Kingcab


]2eDeYe

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that doesnt look like the gussets your talking about there are going to do any substantial strengthening of the notch. the area that needs the reinforcement is gonna be the thin area at the top. especially since now you have a round area removed from the frame. i see the thin area in the frame being very much reduced in strength. i understand also that the pipe is over a 1/4 thick and also the fish plates on the side are 1/4in, but even with plating the top i still see that area having alot of stress and being the breaking point.

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Me too, and it is a concern. I'm adding the gussets to try to use more of the arc's surface area to resist bending and to help make me feel better.

 

I'm going to run the coilovers in front of the axle. The rear of the frame past the notch will only be holding the fuel tank and the rear portion of the bed. The bed should add some strength to the overall structure.

 

As far as materials The SCH 80 pipe is a little over 3/8" thick, the side plates are 1/4" and the top plates will also be 1/4".

 

Thanks for the constructive criticism...fresh perspective is always appreciated.

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no problem and i hope it didnt come across rudely. its just whenever i see a round notch/recess in a frame, i find that kinda of sketchy. now if it were some chevy fulsize that had a 7in tall frame, i could see taking maybe 3in out for a notch. but on a mini where in most cases the frames are only 3 or 4in tall, taking any of that material out could cause strength problems.

 

now are you gonna be putting the bad back on with no holes it in? if anything, on the top i would see if you could get a piece of 1x2.5in (or however wide the frame is) and that was possibly as thick as you could get and do something similar to greengoons hilux.

 

IMG_0758.jpg

 

but since the datsun frame has such a prominent curve, you could make some pie cuts in it to make it match the contour as much as you could. i could see that going forever without any trouble.

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Not rude at all, I can look at this all day and not come up with a better way. Someone else might look at it for 5 mins and have a Eureka. That's one of the reasons why I made the thread.

 

Yep, no holes in the bed.

 

I'll basically have a 1 x 2.5 x 1/4 wall (with the 3/8"s pipe being the bottom wall) member at the top of the notch when all the parts are in. I also won't be supporting any of the suspension behind the notch. If there is any room left on top after I get the bed on, which I don't think there will be, I'll add some more structure like in that pic.

 

I would have just cut the rest of the frame off if I didn't have to hold the bed up. I may end up with a removable truss/crossmember side to side/over or under the axle. I'll have to get the four link in and the bed on to see how much room I'll have to work with.

 

Fun stuff, any thoughts on four link geometry? :D

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what you have is fine Steve, the stock frame is 10ga. (.140) wall at best, you've added double the strength there by far. I would just run a piece of flat bar across the top maybe. I don't see any stress to that section either, so you should be fine.

 

btw, did you get my text today?

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2eDeYe' date='17 March 2010 - 12:56 PM' timestamp='1268852204' post='279032']

 

 

Fun stuff, any thoughts on four link geometry? :D

 

welll from what ive read in the thread your goin for coil overs. id just setup a nice simple parallel 4 link with either a panhard or watts link. simple, effective, strong. i could see a parallel 4 link working well with a slightly adjustable panhard bar. that way if you possibly lower/raise the ride height, you can adjust the panhard to get the axle centered back up.

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welll from what ive read in the thread your goin for coil overs. id just setup a nice simple parallel 4 link with either a panhard or watts link. simple, effective, strong. i could see a parallel 4 link working well with a slightly adjustable panhard bar. that way if you possibly lower/raise the ride height, you can adjust the panhard to get the axle centered back up.

 

Yaaaa...no panhard for me. I want the rear axle to stay centered, with no jacking and I only have 4 links. Dual triangulated is where I'm headed :D

 

I am planning for adjustment at the frame side of the links to dial in the AS and roll center.

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Nope, no updates at the moment. As soon as the red truck gets sold I will be back on this, need funds for sandblasting and coating the cab and bed and for powdercoating the frame. After I have $ for that I will get back to it.

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