metalmonkey47

Did 75 in my 620 the day I put the 5 speed in, and it was screaming. I hate the tall 4.37 rear end.

L20B head will only with on Z20 block with an L20 timing cover. That's about the only head upgrade you'll get.

Pretty sure those were 5 lug too. All kinds of weird stuff about those.

I've never even heard of them before

Pm incoming.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm gonna respond to all that tomorrow when i can make some measurements on the pumps. And NO I'm not putting that BS on my LZ, just using it to source the correct part before I order it :P I have a connection at Nissan That looks like the 240mm, am I right?

One of my commercial customers finished projects.

FYI, I see you mentioned using Duplicolor primer, and I would seriously recommend avoiding that. It's cheap, but stupid crappy stuff. Go to AZ, and you'll find a gallon of high build Rustoleum primer for $50 that's got a 1/1 mix ratio. Very nice high build stuff that's durable and sands out very find. Just keep in mind unless you use a good Epoxy sealed primer, it's porous and will hold water aka rust. I learned that the hard way ;)

Dunno man, it's fate! She offered to work on it, and enjoys spending time with 'her' beautiful truck! haha I'm allergic to the alchy. I break out in handcuffs :P ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Anyone know off hand what the biggest difference between the L16 and L28 clutchless water pumps is? Other then the pulley that is... The shaft size appears to be a little larger, and the impeller design looks a little different... The L16 is a steel impeller, and the L28 uses a cast iron impeller. I have an L28 pulley, and don't feel like sourcing out an L16 one if the L28 pump will work okay. It looks perfect. L16 L28 L16 top, L28 bottom

Monkeygirls 1st ever full datto drawing, about 2 years ago.

Starter bolt is a lot larger then that, I think it's an M10x1.25

I think the discussion has been had before as far as the brakes go, and the general consensus seemed to be that it would take more time/fab skills then it's really worth to get it all right. It's deff not a bolt in swap. As far as the tailgate, all I've ever seen is chains on any 620.

Nothing better then stock parts. At least you'll never have to hunt and you'll always know where to find your stuff. May be harder to find a clean one though, since they were only 78/79 years versus the drum brake trucks who were built in much larger numbers (combining production through the years)

O2 sensor wrench won't get it? Not the 1/2 drive socket craps but the swivel wrench everyone rents out

So much win!!!

Derp. How wide do you want to go? Are you wanting to flare it? 15x8s seem to be the widest rim you'll want to run on a street driven car.

Disregarding all of that :fu: haha Me and amber have been enjoying ourselves all week and her birthday today. Last night we went down to the beach and looked at the stars while we ate dinner with candles and blah blah blahhhhhh. Got up this morning and went to an alligator park. Cost $40 to get in, but it was worth it! She's always been wanting to pet an alligator, so she finally got the chance. Were watching cars now. When we get up in the AM we're hopping on the not-so-comfy Subaru STI seats for the 6 hour ride home. Then picture editing! I have a good one of her standing in front of an anaconda literally twice her size.

Thanks! You guys are gold

Is this including A series?

TAKE NOTE EVERYONE. This is what a FS thread for a motor should look like! A++ DTP!

Got it. THANKS BB!

Looks good. I'd offer maybe $5Kish? Everything looks to be there for the most part. Can't tell since my internet connection is shit in this condo.