metalmonkey47

79 620 has an internally regulated alternator. I believe one of the 'relays' would be the EGR counter, but I'm not sure about much on the '79

Sure, works for me! Let me know

Nice!! I've seen your video on YouTube. I love that truck

Nevermind! It's weird, with the old external regulator the charge light never worked, and I.never bothered putting the bulb holder back in because everything worked. Put a bulb back in and it works. Charges at 14v and with headlights, highbeams, heater, radio, etc it only drops .04v

Well shit, got it all in and wired up and no charge. I mentioned a few posts back about the charge light not functioning. Could this be related? I thought I saw some discussion of this before

Also, where's my choke relay??? I don't have anything like that under my hood. :confused: (Also never had a working charge light, so i hope that's not an issue)

I'm not too worried about that,unless it's going to affect something elsewhere. I have 12V power from somewhere else to the choke. My alt came from a ZX-T. The issue I'm having is that I'm running into the water neck @ the bottom, and the idler arm with less then 1/4 inch to adjust. I can't fit my belt on, and probably won't have enough to adjust it. I'm gonna go snag a few belts from the 'zone and see what I can come up with. Is there a smaller diameter 60 amp?? 200sx maybe? I wouldn't mind mulling over that. I've got it all apart, and thankfully I don't work tomorrow so I'm not in any rush to get this done. Sooner this is done, the sooner I can go to mounting my electric fan and Recaro's

sweet! So I just need to join yellow and white as well as w/b and w/r. Seems simple enough!

Searched around, and didn't find any relevant information on the correct wiring for the bypassing the external regulator. Lots for 510, but I believe the wire colors are different. The post pinned in this section was on an already IR truck, so it didn't have the needed info. Anyone have diagrams on what wire goes where on the plug???

Looks nice! What are your plans?

Are you looking to tuck? Poke? I hate to say it, but offset is everything. Chad Copelands race truck with 17's My truck with wide 15x10's From what I understand, you're looking to do something like this?

I can hear it in the video, but I can honestly say it doesn't sound like pinging from what I hear. My 210 made a similar noise from the mechanical fuel pump before it started to fail. It would get worse at higher RPM's. Just a thought. Can you hear it at idle? Maybe get a cheap stethoscope from the autoparts store and listen to the cylinders??

I'll give ya 20 bones for it.

Sure it's not valve noise? Some aftermarket cams are very noisy.

Sounds like you have the remote ignitor dizzy that used the module under the dash.

My setup: You can pretty much see here what the issue is that we're running into Mike. It sits WAY loo close to the torsion bar. Mine actually taps the torsion bar on a daily basis when taking off. If you got rid of the torsion bars, you can pretty much guarantee that it will run over the crossmember, but there's no clearance unless you do that. If you were good, you MIGHT be able to make it work, but it would be so close to the transmission, you may not get the transmission out unless you cut the exhaust.

I have the same issue. Seems like unless you get rid of the torsion bars, you can't route the exhaust ANY other way other then below the crossmember. That's the biggest issue I have with lowering my truck more.

I thought the same thing until it ate the paint off of my block. If anything, the non-chlorinated stuff is the one to use.

I do that all the time :rofl:

ttt

http://stores.ebay.com/I-Say-Ding-Dong-Stickers/Motorsport-/_i.html?rt=nc&_fsub=3&_sid=173460483&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=1 ^This ebay store is awesome! Some old school Isky, Datsun, Weber, etc stickers.

For a hell of a lot more then $50!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Fucking trolls. That's awesome