PineClone

Bumping this. Was running some speaker wire and discovered this little problem. I’m thinking it’s fairly localized but need to investigate further. Can this be cut out and patched relatively easily? Drivers side floor.

Be patient and wait for a better one to come available. You won't regret it.

Following up with my stock stereo removal experience... First, most of my research indicated that in order to remove the stock stereo, one would need to remove a single screw that requires significant bodily contortions in order to get access to it. Definitely now what I encountered. The stock Clarion on the '85 ST has two screws. One directly above the ash tray, and another directly above the cigarette lighter. The one above the ash tray is easy to remove if you just use a small ratchet wrench with a Phillips bit. The other screw requires removal of the cigarette lighter and you can remove it with a long(ish) screwdriver. Stereo slides right out. Interestingly, the stereo in my pickup has a "REFURBISHED" sticker on it. Wondering if that came from the dealer that way or...???? I had no idea this would be this easy. Now i'm going to have to get online and order a stereo and speakers. Planning on replacing the two that are in the floor, and adding two in the back...location TBD. I'm not interested in free-standing speakers in a box. Probably will use the location of the jump seats, since the previous owner did away with them. I'm liking the idea of the Retro Manufacturing option as shown in this Nissan 720 conversion.

Well I didn't get video of the process but here is what I did to fix the sagging lower hinge on the driver's side door: - Removed the door - Used a grinder to remove the head of the existing pin. Pushed the pin out the bottom. - Bored out the holes in the hinge to accommodate the larger diameter pin and bushing that came with the kit. Used a drill and then a file in order to not overbore the holes. - Installed the hinge and door. - Smiled.

Thanks Tommy. My bushings are shot so I need to pull the pin to replace them.

Hi all. A few questions on this...After researching on this forum a while back, I ended up purchasing these kits: https://www.ebay.com/itm/235048306952 I finally got around to pulling off the door today and ran into a few issues: 1) What is the best way to pull the pins? I've tried a hammer and punch and haven't had much luck. I'm hesitant to grind off the head, but could do that. 2) The bottom hinge pin looks like a smaller diameter than what came in the kit. I'm assuming that i'd need to drill out the holes to get them to fit. Curious if anyone has done this before and whether can offer any pointers. Thanks.

Thanks for the pointers. I was able to smooth everything out by adjusting the idle mixture screw per instructions. Runs smooth, idles perfectly.

Thomas P you said in an earlier post in this thread to use an O ring to keep it from backing out. That’s what I did. I can take it off if necessary.

Thanks Mike. To clarify, you’re talking about the stock carb? Mine is a Weber. Assuming the same process, minus the drilling.

I finally got around to installing the idle cutoff solenoid. Works great. However, after installation the engine idled faster and a little rough. I adjusted the idle down but it still idles rough. Idled perfectly smooth prior to making the change. Any thoughts on why this might be? Runs great going down the road.

I have nothing to add other than i saw that little diesel listed on my FB alerts this morning. I don't usually look at the non-4x4s, but that one caught my eye. It looks really clean and low miles. This forum is a wealth of knowledge if you end up buying it.

Okay I'll leave it in place...that's the easiest solution and is low risk. However, I can always tell when one of those caps pops off because it idles rough.....so the caps are doing something.

I have these ports capped, but they keep coming off. I'd like to remove it and permanently plug the hole like i have with some of the others, but haven't had any luck getting it loose. I've put some moderate pressure on it with a wrench and the nut wants to strip. I have been hesitant to get aggressive with it for fear of breaking something. Any pointers? Thanks in advance.

All of a sudden this thing started rattling in my ear today. It is tightly attached at the bottom, but the top half of the right side (where i'm pointing) is loose. Passenger side panel seems to be attached similarly, but isn't quite as loose. Any pointers? I'm about to pop it off and see if i can come up with any ideas, but don't want to break it. Thanks.

It's really slow here, but it's the best place to come to get answers. I value the expertise on this forum WAY more than the FB groups.