yenpit

What would REALLY help him is a part # off of the old strut insert in that strut...........well, unless it is still oil filled like datzenmike said! The needed measurement is the length of the strut insert body (not overall) OR stick a tape measure down INSIDE the strut tube to the bottom & measure up to the bottom of the gland nut threads. This will offer a MAXIMUM length of the strut body that you can use. The other measurement needed is the tube diameter..........the early Z cars strut tubes were a smaller diameter than the 75-78 280Z/79-83 280ZX. If I was to GUESS, your 710 strut tube diameter is the later......2 inches OD. With those two measurements, you can research what strut insert you can use, possibly with a SHORTER body length & use a spacer/washers at the bottom. You could also theoretically use a spacer/shim at the top, but it would need to fit up inside the gland nut. The 710 is a Wagon (yes?), so a little heavier than say a 510, but a ZX or an MR2 might fall in about the same weight, thus those strut inserts would likely work just fine............again, assuming they FIT inside the strut tube! When you can't find the exact parts (strut insert), improvise! 🧐

I don't know......I've heard Latino women can be a handful!! 🙄 Or did you mean the car.....?? 😅

You either need to have somebody like darzenmike measure a known 710 strut, or you pull yours to measure, so you know the largest insert you can fit. OR find the old part # for the 710 strut insert & hopefully find the measurements of that insert & compare to others. Like he said, you can retrofit a smaller insert, not a larger one! The MR2 inserts are short, as I have used them in ZX struts 😬

I had MG Midget's back in high school in the early 80's, with mod'd 1275's. A buddy had a Datsun 1200 fastback, with a mod'd 1200.........I remember mostly Clifford Research parts. We raced home from school every other day. His older brothers had a couple 510's & a 2L Roadster over the years. One of the 510's was a beautiful Cactus Green 2dr, lowered on Mulhouland (sp?) suspension, dual carbs, wide silver steel wheels (maybe 240Z?). All I remember was getting that first ride in it, thinking how bad ass cool it was! That car got T boned sitting in his driveway by a drunk driver. I then rented a house with some buddies, next door to a guy with an SCCA BRE tribute car & a wicked built-to-the-hilt Solo2 autocross/show car, which stirred me up again! Took me until around 1995 to get my first 510, after I had moved to Michigan. Spotted it in a parking lot, saw Oklahoma tags, left a note saying "If ya ever want to sell it............". I got the call a month or two later! "$75 it's yours...............I just used it to move here!" Drove it home! Had minimal rust......VERY dry car, but worn out! Boasted to a customer on that Monday, who had SCCA Pro Rally raced 510's throughout the 70's-early 80's. All he said was "How much do you want for it?". That went on almost every day for about 6-8 weeks, badgering me constantly! Eric was a great guy & I knew he wanted to build another 510 to run in vintage rally events, including The LeJog in the UK, so I finally sold it to him! Took me another few years to find another & never looked back! In 2007, Eric got the news that he had terminal cancer. He called me, said "Come get ALL of my Datsun stuff..........I'm a goner & don't want Susan (wife) to have to deal with it after I'm gone!" That got me started heavily in selling parts (parts guy by trade, so natural evolution), as it was two cars (the one I sold him years before) & a rotten modified parts car + 5 truck loads of parts. I'm guessing I've bought/sold/parted out 20++ 510's. Now, even here in Colorado, they are getting extremely hard to find, but I'm ALWAYS on the hunt! TJ

Poof, gone!! 🧐

vic620 the 720 will not fit. I might have a 620 drivers window, will look. I'm also sending you a PM (private message) which is how to get to people off thread. Just click on their user name right here, will take you to their profile window, click on "message" & yer off!

In YOUR reply window, look straight down VVVVVVVVVV in the lower left corner.................."drag files here" or click "choose files" link to go to your pics. Only issue I've run into is the max total size is 4MB, so you often have to shrink your pics to post. Hope that helps, cuz we wanna see the car in question!! 🧐

I read that above ^^^ about possibly same as a British part! I have been involved in the British parts industry on & off for 35++ years. Stoffregen.........I've had 21 Spridgets myself over the years. Although I have a 521, I have not even looked at the front suspension...............are you thinking this "cotter pin" is the same as the lower kingpin tapered cotter pin on the Spridgets? If so, I will likely have a new one in my tool box, so let me know & I can measure! TJ

Did you see that www.kfvintagejdm.com is making 620 King Cab lower cab corners? Not much else yet, but he acquired an NOS B pillar for the KC, so he was able to 3D scan & make them. He will be making more 620 panels, but Z car & 510 have been his priority! Project is looking great! 😎

Me be an electrical dummy! As long as I have a good diagram in front of me, I can stumble thru it & be successful! Even redundant wires that are there but no longer used, makes my brain hurt! Iirc they changed plugs & color codes throughout the years, thus making my brain hurt more! One of our techs is really good at electrical, so at least I have somebody to fall back on.............🧐

My guess is the engine vs trans layout directly the front axles. Stopped by a buddy's shop few years ago, they had just pulled the original engine out of a Lancia Fulvia, which is FWD. VERY expensive to rebuild that engine & car was worn out & a l'il rusty. I'm looking in the engine compartment, chuckled & said "Ha I bet my Impreza engine would fit in here!". Silence, as they all stared at me, with signs of smoke starting to come out of their ears. The owner grabs a tape measure & asks "Do you have the Subbie here??!!" Next thing ya know, this classic Lancia has a Subbie 2.5L in it! The engine vs trans layout was siminlar.............engine kinda hangin' outin front of the trans, so that swap worked weel (not AWD tho'!!) 😎

That's all I have. Been 2+ years, but I have posted his contact info since! 🙄

Ugh. I did a write up years ago on here, likely on the electrical page.......?? The reverse lamp switch on an AUTO was part of the neutral safety switch on the side of the auto trans. There would have been a small sub harness going from the wiper motor harness, down to the drivers side of the auto trans. You needed to create a simply jumper/loop wire to bypass the neutral safety so the engine would turn over............if the car was running with the manual swap, they would have had to do this. What I remember regarding the reverse lamps, was two red/black wires for the reverse lamps in that same small sub harness where you create that loop, HOWEVER you won't get power at them, as you need to wire them to the relay on the inner front fender well, immediately behind the headlamps. If somebody else did the auto-manual swap, that relay might be gone. I remember having to run one of the red/black wires to the relay, then to the reverse switch on the manual trans. Pretty sure the 2nd red/black wire ran from that small sub harness, down to the reverse switch. Sorry, was 10 years ago!! Worst case scenario, you could wire a simple toggle switch for the reverse lamps, but I don't do things like that unless 100% necessary! Do you have the Paolo wiring diagram(s)? If not, you should buy the automatic AND the manual diagrams from him. I bought his complete set (6 or 8 different diagrams??), and use the diagrams often. I don't see mention of what YEAR your 510 is, but if you have all the wiring for the dual points, it must be a 1970-1973 car. That said, Paolo offers a 1970-1972 auto AND manual diagram.........again, you should get both. This is what I have for contact info............. You can pay by personal/business check, money order. Make checks payable to Paolo Musante (sorry, no Paypal) Send mail to: Axsys Technology Ltd. Attn: Paolo Musante 1818 98th Street NW, Bldg D Marysville, WA 98271 If you have questions, call 360-657-2700 and ask for Paolo or leave a message. Release Notes: 1-JAN-2013 FYI for those looking to buy from Paolo, he never made the 1970 round gauges first 6mo production..............it is different than the late 1970-1972. He also never made the 1973...............it is different than the late 1970-1972.

Oh fine, whateveeeeeeerrrrrr!! 😒 😂 Lots of "hippie wanabe's" & lots of homeless these days in the city areas. I'm 8 years in here in CO, lots of great things, but just as bad as many other areas of the country 😐

Yes, we call it a taper pin! Yes, it is an access hole for the reverse lockout, but it also allows access to that stupid taper pin, from the outside, in the direction to knock out that taper pin! Still be sure to shove a small block of wood on the inside, to support the shaft while you knock out that taper pin............first one, we bent the shift rod!😫 That oval access plate was only on the last (3rd gen) of the 280ZX 5speeds. The 1st & 2nd gen of the 280ZX 5speeds did not have that access plate.