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About matrophy

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  • Location
    Corvallis, OR
  • Cars
    1986 Nissan 720, 1998 Mercedes C230, 2018 Subaru Forester
  • Interests
    Fishing steelhead right now

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  1. Somehow thought the washers would be hard to find but I found them OK. I had to grind a little corner off the bracket on passenger side to get the clip to fit over the hose end but I think that project is now done. Pretty sure the bleeder screw on the pass rear wheel is leaking air when it's cracked open so I couldn't use vacuum pump to bleed it. Had to use the 'drag-son-out-of-the-house-to-pump-the-brakes' method
  2. Aftermarket version doesn't have the bump so I should be OK for that part but despite what the clerk told me when I ordered them, they came without the washers. I presume that copper washers are readily available at my hardware store. If anyone is wondering, the hoses I ended up with are Duralast #77520
  3. Thought about that. I'm not going to panic until the hoses I ordered arrive and hopefully something has changed in the aftermarket versions I was thinking of adding a notch to the bracket but I'll wait until they get here. I meant to ask you, did you do this recently or was it some time ago? It seems odd that mine and fastboatmans would be so much different than those in your experience and I'm curious if they've somehow been changed
  4. Now that I look more closely, it does seem like the banjo ends are the same. It's the hard line end that is the problem though. The hard line ends only fit in the brackets on the frame one way because of the little bump and how it's oriented to the flat spot. I wonder if somewhere along the line they went from 2 different hose ends to the same for both. I ordered some from my local parts house today that also say that they are the same hose for both sides. Maybe I can modify the frame brackets so the clip holds the line how it's supposed to be held.
  5. Thanks Mike, I wish that were the case but the hoses and brackets that they connect to are definitely different from each other. Here is fastboatman's tutorial on the subject which is exactly what I have. I guess I need to change the brackets but now I need to find the correct brackets. Aargh https://720nissantrucks.weebly.com/front-brake-hose-replacement.html
  6. Saw that both front hoses on my 1986 2WD 720 were cracked while I was replacing ball joints and steering linkage per fastboatman's tutorials and saw that he also has a tutorial posted about changing out the front brake lines. As he describes, even though the front left and right hoses are different, it is pretty certain that you will end up with the wrong hoses from the parts house. Sure enough, I received a left hose when I needed a right hose. Has anyone recently successfully managed to order the correct hoses and if so, where from? There are plenty on RockAuto but all of the photos that are shown with the descriptions show the left hose. Also, it's not clear that they come with the copper washers but some say that they don't come with the hose. Next question is where can I buy the washers if I have to? Here are the links to 2 of the 3 tutorials for anyone who is interested https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/diy-steering-linkage-replacement-nissan-720-truck.html https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/1986-nissan-720-pickup-ball-joint-replacement-diy.html
  7. OK. Good to know. Thanks
  8. You're right. It's riveted to the spring from underneath and then welded to the bracket and the weld broke. Do you know if this is an OEM item or may have been added later? I am just going to replace it with a clamp just in case some kind of extra support is supposed to be there.
  9. Heard a clunking noise while driving and I see that what I would call a damper on PS leaf spring looks like the welds have broken. Is this something dangerous to leave alone (I would just wire it in place) or should I replace the leaf spring? I don't believe this piece can be replaced by itself as it is welded to the spring.
  10. The hole punch idea is brilliant. Thanks for the help
  11. Is generic gasket material sold in sheets? I could take Uber to get to the river but there's no service so I couldn't get back.
  12. 1986 720 Z24 carbureted has a vacuum leak and I am pretty sure it is the carb mounting gaskets. The only gaskets that I or Autozone could find are for fuel injected throttle bodies. RockAuto and NissanParts Deal for 1986 list the carb gaskets as no longer available. I suspect that the carb that is on the car is not the original. I was hoping that I could either find an aftermarket seller that has the gaskets or if the images I attached might help figuring out if I have a different carb than what was on the 1986 or can help identify where I can get these gaskets by looking at the shape. The picture of a carb rebuild kit for a 1981 shows gaskets that look close but I can't tell if the picture is accurate or just generic To top it off, I need 3 gaskets. 1) between the heater and the carb, 2) between the heater and the "insert-thing" in the photo and 3) between the insert and the manifold. I'm dead in the water, the salmon are running and I can't get to the river so any help would be appreciated.
  13. If I don't have air conditioning, is it possible that it has been disabled? I am reasonable sure that there is no hose fitting on the one-way valve. Any comment on the number of gaskets between carb and manifold?
  14. Mike, the high idle seems to be working OK per your description. I did spray around the carb with carb cleaner and the idle increased when I sprayed the rear of the carb base. I removed the carb to replace the gaskets and it looks like there are 3 gaskets - 1 between the manifold and a metal plate the has a recess that fits into the manifold (photo attached), 1 between this plate and the heater and 1 between the heater and the carb. The gasket kit only comes with 2 gaskets. Should there be 3? I replaced every vacuum hose under the hood and I see that there is a plunger of some sort on the back of the carb that looks like it is supposed to have a vacuum line attached but putting my thumb over what looks like a place for a hose while it was running had no effect on the idle. Am I missing a hose for that part?
  15. Chilton manual says to drain gas tank before attempting to change fuel filter in 86 720 then remove fuel filter fuse and crank until line is empty. I haven’t looked up in the filter area but can I just pinch the line from the tank shut after emptying the line by cranking with fuse removed ?
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