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    Corvallis, OR
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    1986 Nissan 720, 1998 Mercedes C230, 2018 Subaru Forester
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    Fishing steelhead right now

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  1. My understanding is that his version will have some sort of message on the display if it needs to be re-calibrated. It didn't require calibration at first though
  2. The AEM kit comes with the correct Bosch O2 sensor although, rumor has it that there is one on Amazon that works just as well. After installing the new O2 sensor, it's just a matter of mounting the gauge, running the cable from the 02 sensor to the gauge and power and ground. You need to add a fuse inline per the instructions. If you want to collect data you need an Rs232 to USB adaptor and some logging software
  3. 60 is what Redline put in it originally. At first is was running lean as hell so I went all the way up to 75 to find out that the throttle shaft was bent and holding the throttle valves open. I went to 55 and it was running too lean. 60 runs a little rich so whattya gonna do? There is a 57 jet available that I might think about trying if the gas mileage is unreasonable. I've heard varying suggestions for the relationship between the primary and secondary mains. Equal, main larger, secondary larger so if nothing else, this probably proves that there are lots of ways to go.
  4. I have quite a few jets left over if you need any
  5. Thanks for everyone's help! I finally got the Weber from hell running pretty close to what I expected. Accelerating through the gears pulls well and AFR levels are real good now at idle and cruise. I got up to 70 mph today without even trying. I ended up with the 60 idle jet and advanced the timing to 5BTDC. I ended up going from 140/140 on the main jets to 150/150. It's running a little rich according to the AFR gauge so I'm going to run a few tanks of Premium E90 and see how the mileage is. I might go with 145/145 or 145/140 but I'm not going to play with it too much if the gas mileage is OK. I learned a lot about how these things work. I now have to remind myself not to put my foot in it so much but it is pretty fun taking off from a stoplight now. I do have a problem with the fast idle but if I can't figure it out - there's not a lot of info online about how to set it - I might start another thread.
  6. I know the throttle valves they sold me were definitely used. They don’t answer the phone so I couldn’t get any help from them
  7. I appreciate the help Charlie. I went up a size on main jets and at least while increasing the rpms above 2000, the afr readings were richer. I was pulling out of the driveway to take a test drive and the ALT light came on bright red. I pulled back in and after going over the alternator, I ended up having to order one. Once it comes in I’ll take her for a drive and see if the bigger main jets made it peppier.
  8. The 10 degrees advance is Redline's generic recommendation for Weber carbs so I tried it. I am only thinking that the noise might be related to the timing because the advance is the last thing I did before I started hearing a rhythmic knock. I know this z24 always has some valve noise and maybe I'm just freaking myself out and it's the valves although I checked them a week ago and found 1 exhaust valve that was a little tight. Maybe it loosened up - I'm hoping it's valves and not something else. Both sides are firing. If returning the timing to 3 degrees doesn't stop the noise, I'm going to check the valves cold then hot. If that fails, I was going to pull one sparkplug wire at a time to see if I can figure out what cylinder the noise is coming from. As far as I know, if the noise stops it's pistons or below and if it doesn't it's probably valves - correct? I'm wondering if I should unhook the exhaust coil when I do that so the exhaust valves don't fire. I can't really tell where the noise is coming from. I used a stethoscope on the block and the loudest ticking/knocking was around the water pump. Would a water pump going out make a noise?
  9. Mike, I advanced the timing to 10 degrees BTDC and it seems to make the idle much smoother. I am noticing what sounds like a knock at idle. I thought it was valve adjustment and I'm going to look at the valves tomorrow but I thought maybe it's knocking from the advanced timing. Is it possible that it might knock at idle with timing advanced?
  10. Maybe we can start over? I realize that my original post was a little hard to interpret and this thread is straying pretty far.. I have attached 2 charts from my AFR gauge (Lambda actually) showing the AFR at idle and the AFR while shifting through the gears and cruising at 60 mph. I have sluggish response when accelerating and while upshifting or merging (my Hitachi was peppier) and am running lean while cruising. I have 2 questions 1) When I set the idle mixture, should I tweak the mixture to get the best AFR even if that is not the best lean best idle? It seems like the engine wants to run at lean best idle richer at around 12.5 (Lambda=0.85). A slight tweak of the screw affects the idle's smoothness a little bit but gets to around 14.0 (Lambda=0.95). The idle chart is after adjusting the idle mixture a little bit to get to stoich. 2) Given the performance shown on the cruising chart, should I fatten up my main jets and should I do both at the same time and any recommendation for how much? 2a) As I understand it, I wouldn't need to do anything to the air correctors unless I have issues at WOT once the mid range is sorted out. Thanks, Colin
  11. This matches mine except for idle jets which were 60/55. I changed main idle jet to 55
  12. Mine are both 140. Did you increase both as you went along?
  13. Do you change both main jets at the same time and the same amount?
  14. I don't have the jet kit. When i said 'kit' I meant that I have the carb kit with adaptor. I have been holding off on buying jets until I get everything else squared away. Does the kit have good instructions for the average shade-tree guy?
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