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About matrophy

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  • Location
    Corvallis, OR
  • Cars
    1986 Nissan 720, 1998 Mercedes C230, 2018 Subaru Forester
  • Interests
    Fishing steelhead right now

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  1. Actually the rubber sold by Rock Auto and carparts.com with part number WBL1988 worked after all. I had to take it to an auto glass shop to get it installed. The guy said that the rubber being so new and stiff was the reason someone like me with little experience (compared to him anyway) had trouble.
  2. carparts.com sold me part number WBL1988 which doesn't fit. Rockauto has the same part number in their inventory.
  3. Rear window rubber for 1986 720 was leaking and I bought a replacement online. As a former VW bug enthusiast, I've installed lots of window rubbers on old cars but this one was a real challenge and I was ultimately unable to install it. Turns out that the one I bought is around 1/8" thinner overall than the one I took out. I believe the extra 1/8" is why I can't get it to cover the headliner at the top. Anyway, I am looking for an OEM version so I don't have to take my chances on buying another aftermarket one or failing that looking for one that one of you bought already that fit correctly. I can't get parts.nissanusa.com to work (I can only get as far as 'Choose your 720 parts' before clicking anywhere on the page doesn't do anything) so I am hoping some of you know either how to work that website or know of any other OEM suppliers or have purchased a rear window rubber from somewhere that actually fits.
  4. I’m guessing that what transmission I have is a function of where the shifter is located on the tunnel and therefore the console I need will have the shifter in the same place or is there some other way to find that out?
  5. No, I just wasn't sure if it would fit
  6. Just finished adding sound deadener to the interior of my new-to-me 1986 720. I am very pleased with the difference in road and engine/tranny noise and it was a pretty easy job - although time consuming at first. Long drives were really difficult with the noise and the truck didn't have a radio when I got it and once I had one installed, it was almost impossible to hear on the road. Decide to look into adding sound deadener and settled on the Kilmat 80 mil butyl/aluminum underneath the Noico 170 mil green which is a closed cell foam with some kind of more dense foam layer and adhesive backing.. Kilmat's Amazon listing looks exactly like Noico's so I assume that both are made by Noico but the Kilmat was slightly cheaper. I bought the 36 square foot version of both and ended up with 2 sheets of the 80 mil and 3 sheets of the 170 mil after doing the floor, door pillars behind the seat and the panel behind the back seat. I haven't done the doors because I am waiting for some door parts to arrive and I don't know what the doors look like with the panels off but I assume that 1 sheet of the 80 mil if cut up and spread around will be enough for each door. I'll add the 170 mil on top of the 80 mil and will have enough for each door, I'm sure. I am also sure that once I do the doors, it will be even quieter. After doing a lot of research, I decided to use both the 80 mil and the 170 mil in combination because the 80 mil is only for reducing vibration in panels and the 170 mil is for sound and temperature control. I didn't test drive after installing the 80 mil (mainly because the seats were taken out) so I have to assume that adding the 170 mil did more than 80 mil by itself. Rumor has it that the 80 mil doesn't have to be fully cover the panel (a few youtube videos I watched said that 50% coverage was acceptable) and you are supposed to tap on a panel and if it sounds tinny, add a piece of the 80 mil and tap various areas of the panel until the panel sounds, for lack of a better word, dull. I decided to go for full coverage since I had already paid for the 36 square feet and also because I didn't want to do it twice if the 50% coverage didn't help. It took 2 solid days for the whole application but I lost a lot of time doing the 80 mil trying to finesse the cutouts so the 80 mil perfectly fit over the items that aren't supposed to be covered like bolt-holes. I evolved to cutting a rough opening for these items after a while and it went a lot faster. I am sure I maintained 95% coverage even still. The packages contained instructions which just boiled down to cleaning the area before installing. I found that cutting a manila folder so it is the same size as a sheet of the material was a good way to quickly make patterns. For some of the pieces that needed to be arced to fit an area, paper towels worked well because they are flexible enough to push into the irregular areas to trace the outline. I purchased a roller with the material and used it on the 80 mil but smoothing the 170 mil with my hands was more effective for that material. You can reposition the material when installing as long as you don't press it down but to keep it from sticking before I wanted it to, I found that folding back the release paper about halfway made it easy to stick it down on one end and then pull the release paper out while smoothing it down. These trucks have tons of ridges, etc on the them and you have to allow for the material needing to be cut longer than you think because it has to negotiate all of the ridges and valleys. I think with the roller, it cost maybe $140 - $150 to do this. I would say that it is well worth doing if like me, road noise was wearing you out on those long drives. Kind of a double-edged sword because now I can hear that my throwout bearing - or something in the are of the clutch - is making noise.
  7. I was able to crazy glue it back together (whch worked surprisingly well) and will keep an eye out for a console. The nissan4u site couldn't find my VIN so I need to double-check that I wrote it down correctly. Thanks.
  8. Working on soundproofing my 1986 base standard cab 720 pickup. I found that my shifter boot had come apart and it also has a rip in it so since most road noise is coming from the floor area, I want to replace the boot while I have the carpet removed. I don't have a console so many of the available thinner boots won't work in my situation. I wouldn't mind having a console so I'm wondering if that is easy to install or will I have a conflict with the heater bits, etc? Which console will work? I saw previous posts where someone was able to post the several models of car/truck that use this same shift boot but the links in the post were dead. I would love to have that info because searches for my specific truck don't turn up any choices. Here are photos of my shift boot. The very bottom piece had come off and it looks like it was put together originally with contact cement so if push comes to shove, I could probably reattach it the same way but I'd rather replace it while I have the interior apart.
  9. Good point. I thought it would be better do get advice from someone who had done it on my model truck but I did find some helpful info on a car stereo forum
  10. Road, engine, tranny noise is making me crazy in my new-to-me 86 720 and I want to add some sound deadener to the floor, doors and behind the bench seat. I am wondering if I were to add the noico 80 mil deadeing mat if I am supposed to put my rattan or whatever it is called that is under the carpet back over the top of the deadener mat or just take that out and throw it away. I also saw somewhere about putting a closed cell foam on the floor between the deadener stuff and the carpet. Anyone with any experience doing this install?
  11. Yes. Still available. It is 7 - 1/16" wide, 2" tall and 6-3/8" deep not counting the faceplate
  12. I'd be interested in it. If it doesn't work - no biggy. I'll just recycle it for you
  13. Looking for a working OEM radio for my 720. Needs to have connector on the radio end. AM/FM only nothing fancy. Or, If anyone knows of a radio that will go in the dash without hacking a larger hole, I'd maybe go that route but since I only listen to 1 FM station I don't want to put a whole lot of effort into this project.
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