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About matrophy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Corvallis, OR
  • Cars
    1986 Nissan 720, 1998 Mercedes C230, 2018 Subaru Forester
  • Interests
    Fishing steelhead right now

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  1. That makes the wiring a lot easier, for sure. I'd switch to LED bulbs if I was going to leave them on all the time cause once the console is bolted down, changing bulbs is a bitch and LEDs last way longer than incandescent bulbs.
  2. I am in the process of replacing lower ball joints and tension rod and sway bar bushings. These bushings were hard, cracked and deformed. Although they don't look like they need replacing, I'm wondering if I should replace the upper and lower control arm bushings while I'm at it so I don't have to do essentially much of the same work twice down the road. I have done some searching and it seems like pressing in and out the bushings is not an easy job. Are there any tips for doing this? Would a loaner ball joint press do this job or do I need something different? I found horror stories online of guys having to burn out the bushings or drill them out and then scrape the rubber off. I also read that you can heat up the control arm until it smokes and then they press out easier. Any advice/help would be appreciated.
  3. Thanks. I didn't know about the preload part. I'm going to replace the bearings on both front wheels. It seemed like the nut was just finger tight but maybe 29 ft/lb isn't that much.
  4. I had some play at 12 and 6 on one wheel so I decide to change wheel bearings. I was following fastboatman's tutorial and I'm not clear if I need to replace the bearing races if I am using new bearings.
  5. I had some play at 12 and 6 on one wheel so I decide to change wheel bearings. I was following fastboatman's tutorial and I'm not clear if I need to replace the bearing races if I am using new bearings.
  6. If you were going to wire the gauges yourself, the 2 from the sender to the oil pressure gauge are easy to figure out. I am pretty sure that the voltmeter just needs any 12V hot wire and a ground but I may be wrong. All that's left is the illumination circuit and you should be able to tap into those wires at the switch on the dash
  7. Here's some info I got from a Facebook poster who works at a Nissan dealer (so I'm not crazy): There are THREE 720 distributor caps 1) 1980 L20B 2) 1981 Z22 3) 1982-1983.0 Z22 1983.5-1986 Z20, Z24, & Z24i There are FOUR 720 rotors 1) 1980-720 2) 1981 Z22 3) 1982-1983.0 Z22 1983.5-1986 Z20, Z24 4) 1985.5-1986 Z24i
  8. Don't know about the low part but slow is definitely the default🙂
  9. Thanks. I am ordering a set from NAPA. I'm assuming that RockAuto put the wrong thing in the box or whatever
  10. I did order the kit. There are no markings on the parts so I can't tell if the wrong part is in there. In your experience are there 2 sizes of these caps/rotors for 720s? Where do you buy yours from? I am not married to RockAuto for sure although now I have a store credit...
  11. Bought cap and rotor from RockAuto for '86 720 with z24 and the rotor is too tall and doesn't lineup with screw hole in dist shaft by about 1/2". I assume that the cap that came with it wouldn't work with a shorter rotor. Are there 2 sizes of caps and rotors possible for these trucks? My wiring harness matches 1984 exactly so I'm wondering if my distributor is from an earlier year as well.
  12. I had my cable disconnected from both ends to lube it and I measured close to 55" so I'm thinking that 70" may be too long if their description is correct. Not sure how to route it so it doesn't kink
  13. I've been told that the 'plug-in' speedo cable is no longer available. I attached photos of what I mean by 'plug-in'. I see that RockAuto has one for an '82 720 (but for a 2.2L engine) where the picture shows the plug-in piece where their pictures for later model trucks like mine ('86 with 2.4L) show a picture with just screw-in ends on both sides. I am tempted to by the '82 version from them but all of the RockAuto listings for speedo cables for all of the years I looked at say that the cables are 70" long. Mine appears to be in the neighborhood of 55" long so I'm wondering if they are in fact, no longer available. From RockAuto
  14. 'Wet' was squirting oil in the cylinders. Engine was at operating temperature throughout.
  15. Got it. Thanks. Completely removing each bolt sounded like overkill. I ran a compression test as I work through the list of tasks you provided so I can verify that my truck doesn’t have anything wrong with it to affect top end speed. I am wondering how to interpret the results: Cylinders in order 1 to 4 (psi) cold 140, 140, 150, 175 wet 175 1-3 and 200 for number 4. plugs looked OK but #4 was ‘dirtier’ but not oily
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