Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

178 Excellent

About matrophy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Corvallis, OR
  • Cars
    1986 Nissan 720, 1998 Mercedes C230, 2018 Subaru Forester
  • Interests
    Fishing steelhead right now

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks DM, Wouldn't be the first time that I acted before having all of the information, I guess.
  2. Thanks, I saw these. The choke is the main issue but I also seem to have to adjust my idle more frequently than I would like as it won't stay adjusted over time. I decided that I didn't want to deal with drilling out the rivets for a carb that was probably on it's last legs.
  3. Thanks Mike, That is what I was looking for. I like the idea of using the stock air filter and have been in contact with mklotz to get advice on how he did it. The main issue for my switching to the Weber is that my choke doesn't work now and cold morning startups take a long time. I just need to figure out how and where to draw the vacuum needed to run the air filter components. I also hear that the Weber filter is noisy compared to the stock air filter and that is also important to me. My truck is loud enough now. I plan on keeping the charcoal canister and PCV. Sounds like the TVV and Fuel
  4. I see a lot of the threads about ripping out the emissions stuff on our 720s but, looked for, and couldn't find post(s) by Datzenmike that suggested that doing so wasn't necessarily the best idea and may not help in the long run in some cases. This is a request to Datzenmike to see if he would repost the thread(s) detailing what the purpose of each of the emissions add-ons is and how they affect driveability, etc. but anyone can certainly chime in. Getting ready to take off my old Hitachi carb on my '86 Cal emissions z24 and replace with the Weber 32/26. I am reluctant
  5. What is special about the air cleaner?
  6. I already ordered the shaft bearing kit and I agree, I'd just as soon install them now to reduce the mystery-solving later on. Now I'm thinking about not swapping the Hitachi throttle lever right away to see if the Weber lever/spring/bracket setup works OK. I think I'll dry fit everything and try it out before gluing down the gaskets and final torqueing.
  7. Mine is brand new from Carbs Unlimited. I wouldn't buy a used one for sure.
  8. I've decided to go with a 32/36 Weber on my 86 720 w/Z24. I have the carb ready to go and I've been doing some research on the best way to install it. Seems that everyone I talk to about this swap has a suggestion for the best way to do this that isn't covered in the Redline instructions and I wanted to list them here for a consensus opinion: 1) Add bearings on throttle shaft to prevent worn and leaking shaft bore 2) Use the stock throttle lever from the Hitachi 3) Use the stock cable bracket but move it down one bolt hole. Anything else that I should do to m
  9. That's good info. The warnings of over-torquing in the instructions had me a little nervous
  10. If I understand correctly, it sounds like the preload inch-lb torque and the ft-lbs torque are essentially within the same range. To recap: Start with the lowest ft-lb torque, check the preload spec after moving the pinion back and forth a few times to settle the bearings and if needed, increase ft-lb torque until both are in spec. RTV and locktite per Stoffergren's recommendation and stake the nut.
  11. The filters are available on ebay with that part number (16404-28530). The filter was a little difficult to get out of the pump so I wasn't sure if that inner spring-thing is somehow supposed to lock the filter in but I found a diagram where it looks like the 2 gaskets and the lid are what hold it in.
  12. Do you happen to know the part number of the gasket for the fuel filter inside the fuel pump? Also, does the filter slide in and is just held in with the cap or does that weird spring thing inside hold the filter in somehow?
  13. I have a weeping pinion seal on my '86 720and it is on my list to fix but the more I research the procedure for retightening the nut, the more confused I get. My Haynes manual doesn't mention torqueing the nut after setting the preload with an inch-lb torque wrench but there is a torque spec of 94 to 217 ft-lb listed. Is the final torque and the preload torque essentially the same number or are there 2 steps - set preload (move axle back forth in the process) and then a final torque of the nut? Related question - is counting the turns on the nut a better way
  14. I don't see anything on the parts that I have from an 83 4WD truck that looks like that bracket. The closest is the piece that goes behind the pulley on the pump shown here. I'm pretty confident that I took every bracket that was on the engine.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.