Charlie69's 66 520 Build

[mrbigtanker]

Good deal.

[gene knight]

Nice i have a need for the alternator, I can use it for grimace

[Charlie69]

Contact your buddy Shawn, he is the reason I had to buy an alternator.

[gene knight]

Haha. I haven't spoken to him about 3 months

[Charlie69]

My brother came over this morning and we installed my lower control arm bushings in the 80 720 chassis unde my 66 520.  Big step now I can assemble the rest of the front suspension, steering, rear shocks. and rear brake lines. on Friday after Thanks giving.  If all goes well I hope to install the fuel tank and get the under hood wiring cleaned up so I can take to the exhaust shop and have the exhaust done.

 

After the exhaust I will finis the brake and fuel lines and then finish all the wiring.

 

Talked to Mark (PCD) today and he said he would come down for a weekend and do some body work on my 520.  This will be after the holidays most likely.

[Charlie69]

Ordered the MOOG Tie rod ends and the 2 rear drums from Rock Auto on Wednesday.  Finished the paint on the the control arms.  I will start assembly tomorrow and I will take some pictures.

[Charlie69]

Cold and windy today so I stayed in and worked on my fan wiring,

 

 

Parts for Dual Fan Wiring

 

Rectifier Diode 1N4005 1A 600V DO-41 10 for $1.59

 

Bosch Style Relays & Sockets SPDT RELAY 60AMP  5 for $14.30

 

PCB Fuse Holder fixed hole ATO / ATC Automotive Fuse With cover 30AMP 40 Amp Max  20 for $12.00

 

Electric Cooling Fan Engine Temperature Switch 200° On 185° Off 1 for $9.80

 

Electric Cooling Fan Engine Temperature Switch 185° On 170° Off 1 for $6.98

 

Radiator Hose Adapter Black 34mm 2 for $9.24   I had to drill and tap these to a 3/8" NPT thread as they cams wit 1/8" NPT threads.

 

Total for parts purchased $52.91

 

After I get this system up and running I will check amp draws and adjust fuses and relays amperages accordingly..  The reason I started with 60 amp relays was for the heavier wiring.  I can put any amperage under 60 amp Relays I need.

[Charlie69]

Here is the original right up and what Mike Klotx said acout the circuit used.

 

Automatic 2 Speed Fan Control

6v Low 12v High

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/electric-fan-wiring.html

 

OK here is a true 2 speed fan control.  This wiring diagram uses three relays. Each should have the capacity of a single fan.

 

Fan Speed Control

The idea here is that fans are 12 Volt motors, and typically will work at reduced capacity at a lower voltage.  Let’s say we put both fans in series.  That would make the effective voltage to each fan at 6 Volts, 1/2 of the required voltage.  In that case the fan will spin slower.

 

If we want full speed then we need to re-connect the wires so that each fan will receive the full voltage.  With some simple relay wiring we can do this pretty easily.

 

The LOW speed temperature switch needs to be set at a lower temperature value the high speed or this really doesn't work.  Given that the lower temperature switch turns on first and the higher temperature switch later makes this all work like a charm.

 

As previous wiring diagram we use a DIODE, but in a slightly different way.  You can omit the diode, but if your low temperature switch fails, you will ONLY have one fan on (the High Side on the right).  We can make this circuit much better by using the DIODE to also ensure if the HIGH temperature fan is on the LOW temperature fan comes on as well.  The circuit will still allow the 2 speeds but ensures that a bad low temperature switch will not keep both fans blowing if it overheats.

 

This is yet a more complex circuit then the previous but still within reach, yet provides more functionality if you need it.

 

Operations

If none of the temperature senders are triggered both fans are off.  If the LOW Temperature side is triggered BOTH fans will come on at roughly half speed.  If the HIGH Temperature switch comes on both fans will switch to full speed mode, if you do not have the OPTIONAL DIODE this will only be true if the LOW Temperature switch is also on.  Add the DIODE it's about 25 Cents and adds some redundancy to the system.

 

1N4005   NTE116   Silicon Rectifier 600v  1A

 

 

Mike Klotz Said, they're using a series circuit so that the voltage is divided between the two fans, which assumes that they're both the same resistance....in other words, a matched set of fans.  If you run two different fans, they may spin at slightly different speeds.

 

When the low temp switch turns on, it applies ground to the left relay only because of the diode (or open) stopping the ground from getting to the other two relays.  When the left relay turns on, the red wire applies 12v to pin 30, which moves thru to pin 87 since the relay is energized.  That 12v is applied to the + term of the left fan.  It goes thru the fan to pin 30 of the middle relay....which transfers it to pin 87a, which applies the voltage to the + terminal of the right fan, which runs the fan because the fan's - terminal is ground.  The two fans are a voltage dividing circuit because they're in series.  The voltage on the + term of the right fan is also felt on pin 87 of the right relay, but since it's not energized, it doesn't do anything.

 

Basically, the middle relay switches the ground for the left fan from going straight to ground on pin 87 when energized or thru the right fan when it's de-energized.

 

I didn't really go over the high speed circuit.  Basically, the diode will let the ground from the high speed switch be felt on the left relay and turn it on as well.  Since all 3 relays will be on, the left fan sees a full 12v because the middle relay grounds the fan directly instead of thru the right fan.  The right fan gets 12v with the right relay energized and it is already grounded.  It's a nice circuit.”

[Farmer]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^definitely want to book mark this page

[Charlie69]

Got started on the assembly of the front suspension and steering today.  It started raining and got dark on me so I shut it down for tonight.  I hope to work on it tomorrow after I get back from seeing my shoulder surgeon. 

 

Here is where I started today.

 

This is what I accomplished.

 

[gene knight]

Keep up the good work

[Charlie69]

I am going to ad one of these to the fan system.

 

Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Blue Red LED

DC 100A 100V Current Shunt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-100A-100V-Digital-Amp-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Blue-Red-LED-Current-Shunt-/282085879021?hash=item41ada0eced:g:o3AAAOSwhOVXdjG8

 

Specifications:

• Working voltage of Meter: DC 4 - 30V(The maximum input voltage can not exceed 30V. Otherwise the meter will be burned)
• Working current of Meter itself:≤20mA
• Voltage Measuring range: DC 0 - 100V
• Current Measuring range: DC 0 - 100A
• Voltage resolution (V): 0.1V
• Current resolution (A): 0.1A
• Measure accuracy: 0.1% (± 1 digit)
• Display: 0.28" digital tube, Two color blue and red
• Refresh rate: about 300mS / times
• Dimensions:48mm*29mm*26mm
• Operation Temp: -10℃-+65℃

Package Includes:

• 1x DC 100V 100A Voltmeter & Ammeter
• 1x 100A current shunt

Wiring:

[gene knight]

Are you going to install a Flux capacitor

[Bory]

Lookin good C6!

Do you have the A/C comp. mounted yet?

[Charlie69]

Thank you Bory.  You build is so much more than this one even though we have had some of the same hurdles to get over.  Santa says hurry!  LOL

 

No on the A/C compressor mounting.  I need a short compressor I will probably use a hard body KA compressor and mount.

[Bory]

Oh your welcome!

Love that body style!!

Not to many guys are doing A/C, so I was wondering, the beauty about chilling the cab, is that they are so small, condenser doesn't have to be huge, and it will recover nicely!! Keep it up!

[Charlie69]

The complete heater and A/C system is 720 except the compressor.  The 1980 is to long and hits the square port exhaust manifold.  I have not checked the 85 86 720 compressor and bracket yet.

 

Here is what I acomplished today.

 

 

 

 

The 1978/1979 620 steel disc brake wheels fit no problem,  However the 1996/1997 Hardbody alloy wheels do not. That is a 1978 620 disk brake wheel in the picture above.

 

So I will get the set of wheels blasted and powder coated and run a set of stock 520 caps on the 620 disc brake wheels.  Thes are the wheels I beleive that Wayno has on his 520 King Cab.

 

Tomorrow weather permitting I will Prime and paint the center link, tie rods & adjusters, idler arm, and sway bar .  If they dry fast enough I hope to install them also.  The complete replacement parts on this front end are all MOOG Parts.

 

Rock Auto order came today with the rear brake drums and the tie rods and adjusters. soon as I finis the front end I will install the fuel tank and rebuild the rear brakes.  The it will be time to make up brake and fuel lines.  Then finish wiring.

[Charlie69]

Are you going to install a Flux capacitor

3 of them!  I can buy them cheaper in 3s!

[wayno]

I have stock 620 disc brake rims on a lot of my trucks including the 520, but I can use 520/521 rims also, I just mount them, spin them till all the spots where they hit the calipers are marked, and then take them off and hit the high spots with a hammer and they are good after that, I have 521 rims on the front of the work truck with pathfinder dual piston calipers right now, they work just fine.

The only rims that have not worked so far are the 320 rims with the rivets that hold them together, you cannot knock rivets out of the way, they are to big.

[Charlie69]

Good information Wayno.  The drop spindles affact what wheels I can run.

[Charlie69]

Gene Knight came over and helped get the tie rods fitted, the center link and new idler arm installed.  Painted the new tie rods and the used sway bar and hangers. I will install them and torque everything to specs after installing and adjusting the torsion bars. Front suspension and steering on the 1980 720 chassis will be finished.

 

 

 

 

 

Next I will install the fuel tank and the drive line bolts.  Then the rear brake line hose brack needs a new mount made and welded on.  Rebuild rear brakes and bend up brake lines and install front brake hoses.

 

Then I will get to the wiring.  Then tear down for body and paint.  Then reassemcle and do the iterior finishes.  New tires and have the wheels sand blsted and powder coated.

 

At the current time line on this build I should have it done by 2025!!!  LOL

[Charlie69]

Now remeber the Beltech lowering spindles are speced out to fit 83-97 Nissan PU & Hardbody 2" Drop Spindle Part #: 2005.

 

These have been installed on a 1980 720 non vented rotor chassis.  The brake calipers and rotors are from a 1985 720 wneted rotor truck.  The lowering spindles will not work on a unmodded 1980 chassis with 14" wheels.  The nature of moving the spindle up on the steering nuckle also moves the bottom of the LCA down in the wheel, which causes the 14" wheel to come in contact with the bottom edge of the LVA under the ball joint.

 

I had my brother Garret mod the LCAs as I noted in a earlier post.

 

Stock LCA

 

Modded LCA

 

I have not installed the torsion bars yet and that will most likely happen on Sunday.  When I get the torsion bars set I will check the various stock Datsun/Nissan steel and alloy wheels for fit.

 

I will quote the post with the results so all the information is together and in a later more current post at the time.

[Farmer]

I have drop spindles on my 620 and the lca doesnt rub. I, about 3/8 to 1/2 from rim. Got 14" rims. But 14" by 6". Id probably run into problems with wider 14".  And I'll be going larger with wheels anyways.

 

Looking good

[Leche]

Wow nice suspension work, looks brand new bud.  I think you will be done before 2025 though :thumbup:

[]2eDeYe]

All caught up, that front end looks super fresh.