Jump to content

bagged 620 super short (big update)


nosh1t

Recommended Posts

g'day everyone i'm ryan and this is my 620

pic3.jpg

 

plans there are no plans

only plan is to get it done

PC131093.jpg

AT ALL COSTS!!!

 

list

body droped with shock floor and shock engine on 20 inch black chrome rims.

roof chop and round tail lights and a custom dash and gear stick

tilting/lifting bed with weld in tailgate every thing fench or shaved

and custom cnc grill with retgal head lamps

datsun-1.png

and thats all i can think to list for now

heres the photos like all good builds

P2130620.jpg

the start

PB230909.jpg

started to shave in some spare time

PB230914.jpg

checking out hilux buck seats with some taller friends (roof chop)

PC041070.jpg

PC041072.jpg

time to cut the crap and get in to it

PC071075.jpg

PC091089.jpg

some parts for the notch came

PC131094.jpg

got it down to bare metal

PC141110.jpg

tacking stuff in and checking it as you do

PC141113.jpg

PC141116.jpg

4 set up and tacked in

PC241124.jpg

PC261137.jpg

PC261138.jpg

making smoother for a better finsh (was plasma cut)

PC261141.jpg

notch cover

PC261129.jpg

PC261131.jpg

still working on this should round the ends and insides of it

and thats where my fuel tank will get moutned later

PC271147.jpg

PC271146.jpg

PC271148.jpg

and a joke me my old man folling around lookslike where slumming it

had to make space so moved it out side

 

thats where its at rite now i have started on the front end and still working one the brakets and fab work like upper bag mounts and rear cross member

 

ryan.

Link to comment
  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah famerjoe pinion angle had to google it haha

its set up rite the 4 link and the yok and there 20 inch rims so it is what it is all i can change is the driveling and crossmember which is in bad shape anyway

 

anyideas as to what could fix that

Link to comment
yeah famerjoe pinion angle had to google it haha

its set up rite the 4 link and the yok and there 20 inch rims so it is what it is all i can change is the driveling and crossmember which is in bad shape anyway

 

anyideas as to what could fix that

 

Believe it or not a drive shaft U-joint that is on an angle does not turn at a steady speed. If you imagine looking down inside the driveshaft tube at the bent U-joint, you will see that it spins in an elipse or oval. It speeds up and slows down as it turns and because it is mechanically connected to the engine mass which tries to turns at a steady rate, there is vibration. As far as driveshafts go, less angle is better, however with any angle, vibration can be reduced by having two U-joints arranged at each end so that the acceleration/decelerations will mostly cancel each other out.

 

Obviously the two U-joint angles must be the same or equal for this to work. The angle at the transmission to the drive shaft must equal the drive shaft to the differential. As shown below:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Tranny/transdriveline.png[/img]"]transdriveline.png

 

In the case of a two piece drive shaft the same applies. Treat each half as a separate drive shaft. Input must equal output.

 

BTW BEEBANI gave me the tutorial on this. I only hope I remembered it correctly.

Link to comment

thanks heaps dat i knew it was a problem but i was offair to go agest what i know about the yoka being per and all that

 

but your way of explain it is too easy im going down to my work shop to fix that and get it to lay out on the floor

 

/Q

Believe it or not a drive shaft U-joint that is on an angle does not turn at a steady speed. If you imagine looking down inside the driveshaft tube at the bent U-joint, you will see that it spins in an elipse or oval. It speeds up and slows down as it turns and because it is mechanically connected to the engine mass which tries to turns at a steady rate, there is vibration. As far as driveshafts go, less angle is better, however with any angle, vibration can be reduced by having two U-joints arranged at each end so that the acceleration/decelerations will mostly cancel each other out.

 

Obviously the two U-joint angles must be the same or equal for this to work. The angle at the transmission to the drive shaft must equal the drive shaft to the differential. As shown below:

 

 

 

In the case of a two piece drive shaft the same applies. Treat each half as a separate drive shaft. Input must equal output.

 

BTW BEEBANI gave me the tutorial on this. I only hope I remembered it correctly.

 

 

thanks

ryan.

Link to comment
Liking the round notches & good progress! Was wondering..whats the P next to the license plate?

 

in australia we have a licencing system where you are on a provisional licence for 3 years - during that time there is a power to weight ratio limit on cars, and also total ban on driving performance cars ( turbo/supercharge or V8)

Link to comment

lookin good, is there going to be enough clearance for the 20's up front?

how far are you going to body drop it?

looks like you got a L series engine and some disk brakes on there already and bag on bars I see, good choice and looks like a cracker of a work space and I see 4 grinders in 1 pic, why on earth do you need 4?

When are you planning on having finished by?

Link to comment

finsh date hmmm

 

wel 4 grinders one im a carpenter so two are work grinders

and the other 2 was a deal at a magnamart shop in ablino park rail its like bunnis

and it was when i broke a work grinder

 

20 inch rims will be fine in the rear

 

and pushing it in the from

boday droped to the rocker and not like how you done it peanut because i will need the inch half or what eva it was you cut off

 

i'll be running a 30 by 30 4 mm wall on the ground and weld that on the back of the rocker and make the tub line up

 

far as the from gose have to z notch the front of the frame 85mm (2 and half inchs rought translation) or maby 2 inchs if im lucky with the changes im going to do to the bottem control arm

 

done nuthing to day but check measure ments and figure out the front end and the pinnio angle issue (where i fucked up)

 

PC281150.jpg

layin have to make the cross member go up 35 mm (inch and a half)

PC281151-1.jpg

genrall ride hight

 

ryan.

Link to comment

g'day ratsun

 

well i got rite back in to it today and hit it slow

with out any steel suppers opened and no 4mm plate to make a notch for my front end.

-----------------

motorivation plus

-----------------

and i all so had the time burn my hand a+ for enought because i burn it good got two fingers and my thom is white

i work on as any one would do

 

PC301152.jpg

so i got some new toys

PC301153.jpg

measure up before un bolting the bottem control arm

PC301155.jpg

PC301157.jpg

mark a center line and square that up and cut it off making it esayer to make template

PC301156.jpg

PC301160.jpg

PC301162.jpg

PC301163.jpg

so then i cut the bottem control mounting patten out

flat dics (grind off bers) till smooth

and got it ready to be used as a template for making the blot holes out

PC301164.jpg

clean it up ready for welding and marking out

PC301167.jpg

marked it out like so

PC301170.jpg

PC301176.jpg

PC301174.jpg

plasma cut it out, cleaned it up and marked the mounting holes out

PC301178.jpg

PC301179.jpg

looking good

PC301181.jpg

clean

its not finshed but its enought to bolt it back on so i did

PC301182.jpg

PC301183.jpg

there we go

and i took the engine out because im going to have to z the front of the frame tomorrow

 

ryan.

thanks for reading and comments

Link to comment

Cool, its always good to see another bagged datsun. You may want to look into lowering your drive shaft hoop with the upper links mounted on it. Your geometry would be much more correct a good bit lower, right now it looks like you have no instant center at all. Just my 2 pennies.

 

coming along nicely, keep up the good work!!!

Link to comment

wow, looking good. deffinately digging the progess of your work. The notches in the back flow with the frame pretty good, wish I would have done that on mine a little better.

 

like airedout said about your driveshaft hoop, lowering it could help your geometry out alot. Other than that, it looks really good. Nice welds too, looks like you got alot of heat into them.

Link to comment

lol thanks peanuts yes that is why i had to z the frame and pitty i have oready done so

 

but main reason is that im using 20 insh wheels and they will have no camber at ride hight

 

and i still need to do what you said and make a custom upper arm but i will do that when i can get some steel

 

with the rear end i see no problem with the 4 link set up or the hoop

so not sure

 

thanks anyway

ryan.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.