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My great grandfather’s 620 is now mine.


GGPA620

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@Stoffregen Motorsports @Crashtd420

 

Yea it is crazy. and very sad. Driver side window was down. and the passenger and windshield was shattered by kids passing by the alley. So it sat for around 10 years taking moisture and it got caught under the floor mat and really ate it up. Under the bench even got it pretty bad because of the dust in our area had trapped mud basically under the seat. 

 

I guess i will have to either save up for a full floor or do floorpans and patch up the back. Also realized while reading and thread on here about replacing the floor pans that my cab mounts look shot and will need to replace those also. 

 

Luckily the rest of the body seems in decent shape. But it is the first time i felt a lil overwhelmed since ive never done metal work yet. Fortunately i do know some good welders so i will see what they think. Any ideas or suggestions welcome haha. 

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I've seen worse.... luckily for you they actually make floor pans for the 620.... at least I found the driverside.....

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312476091891

 

Or see what you buddy can do.... 

The cab mount is usually the trickiest part.....

For mine I just got a 12x12 piece from home depot... 12 gauge I believe.... layed that over the hole and cut the square to match the new metal....

 

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@Crashtd420

 

yea i saw these too. For $100 for something that will be under the mat..i dont know haha. I like your idea of getting metal and drawing out the shapes i need. Solid and functional and affordable so i can put that money elsewhere. Did you just use a auto body hammer to kinda shape the curves?

 

definitely will get it to metal and really see what im looking at though. It wont stop my project but man its just sad haha. Just another learning opportunity for me though. 

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620s are notorious for rusted floors. The culprit is the spot welded cab seam under the fenders. No seam sealer back then and the paint only keeps the water out for so long.

 

Then add bad window seals and most are rotted nowadays.... most were rotted years ago lol.  

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@]2eDeYe

That sucks that most 620s have to deal with the floor rust. But i am excited to learn from the experience of getting that fixed. 

 

TODAY

I found my clutch master cylinder is what is leaking. It seems to be just from the rubber boot that is against the firewall is cracked? Im wondering if i can replace that rubber piece and it still be ok. Im able to push it and fluid come out. I went ahead and moved on for now once i got it out. 

 

I started working on getting the driveshaft unbolted but having trouble so far. Using pb blaster but my tools are not great quality i guess they dont want to bite enough and im scared to round off the bolts. I will have to get a better quality wrench pr even those wrenches with the teeth to help me get those out.  Unfortunately my time was limited but glad i at least seemed to figure out the clutch issue and will look into rebuilding the master.  

 

Finding myself thinking about working on so many things at once and having to slow down and focus on one job. If i hit a wall get as far as i can before needing new tool or needing more research. 

I think i will make a to do list haha

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@banzai510(hainz)

Yea i did see that also and even rogged up my bottle and hose and opened my bleeder on the slave....then i noticed there was a wet spot by my pedals...and remembered i put some dot 3 in the master cylinders for brake and clutch. I looked closer under the dash and saw the boot for clutch was well and torn. Thats without even having pressure in the line. So i took it out and saw that rubber boot is shot. But as soon as its ready to go i can bleed the line and i agree i think i should be good to go with the clutch. Hopefully anyways. Thanks tho that helps me know im on the right path. I know the factory cylinder is probably better than any aftermarket so i want to try to salvage it. 

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You may want to ask your buddies that weld to have them teach you a bit and get some time doing your floors / have them clean up your work. It doesn't have to be the prettiest because you can easily cover them, and you get to learn a bit. (It's what talked my Bro into letting me do is pester his ass lol). 

 

Looking awesome, and congrats on getting it running!

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url%5D

url%5D

 

See what i mean? Seems salvageable and probably better then aftermarket. Like @Stoffregen Motorsports said in a previous post NOT to throw anything away. But it looks like it might save a little time buying a new one. (Centric...thanks @wayno ) and keep this in a good place and take it apart and learn how to rebuild it as a back up for my stockpile. Thanks. as always guys! Truly appreciate all of yalls help very much. 

Edited by GGPA620
Decided to buy this part new
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I personally don't waste my time trying to rebuild the clutch or master brake cylinders, I just want them to work, so after I found the Centric brand brake parts that are reasonably priced and no core needed that is all I buy, they are brand new and I have never had one fail out of the box, I have had other brands that did fail out of the box.

I am not saying throw yours away, rebuild it if you can find a kit,  but I would take it apart first to see if the bore is smooth, perfectly smooth.

I do run a hone in the clutch slaves to try and save them, but even if they do work, they usually fail within a year, but I have so many of them in the extra parts bucket that there is another one waiting to be tried.

I believe the last time I bought a Centric clutch master for my 521 which is SAE it was around $30.00 at the store(part #136.42300), but that was a long time ago, just about everything I own has a Centric brake or clutch master in it now.

Edited by wayno
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I did find that centric actually just now. Thinking about ordering it. I am not trying to rush my build. but if it saves me a hour of learning to rebuild i am thinking about it. I definitely won't throw it away. I appreciate the testimony to centric though. I found they have some of the parts imlooking for.  And a fellow ratsun testimony is enough to sell me if it will save me some time and from having to deal with it again in a year or so. Thanks @wayno

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Just to let you know when I do my 521 the threaded rod is too long and. Needs to be cut.When you install the rod will push on the pedal too soon when it mounts to the firewall.Wayno would know more on the Cedric brand but all the ones I installed I had to cut.I have done about 3 since I owned my truck.i only get about 5 yrs out of them driving everyday. I do have Cedric spares now but haven’t used that brand before 

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Another fan of Centic here, have had good luck with their parts. 

Along with what Hainz said about the pushrod. Always be sure to check the part you get against the part you pulled before you try to install it.
I have got the wrong part on the right box from time to time, not from Centric just in general. Seems to happen a lot more often these days even with newer car parts. 

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12 hours ago, GGPA620 said:

url%5D

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See what i mean? Seems salvageable and probably better then aftermarket. Like @Stoffregen Motorsports said in a previous post NOT to throw anything away. But it looks like it might save a little time buying a new one. (Centric...thanks @wayno ) and keep this in a good place and take it apart and learn how to rebuild it as a back up for my stockpile. Thanks. as always guys! Truly appreciate all of yalls help very much. 

Just throw them in a box and keep them for a rainy day when you have time to rebuild them. I like the original stuff.

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@Stoffregen Motorsports 

Yessir will do! I want to get it cleaned up and have as a back up. But for now i have too many other fixes so i decided to buy a new one and do what you said with this one. It will NOT be thrown away. Or for sale. Thanks for the tip again. I gathered any lil parts i could when cleaning. Even the old crusty visors so i can use as a guide to make new ones. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Whats up my ratsun krew! Just wanted to give an update. Work and my side business have been keeping me busy. But i have still been frequenting the forum doing research. I did get the book..how to keep your datsun alive...and also made a trip to the nearest salvage yard and brought home a few goodies. Windshield, passenger window,  shift knob, speedometer cluster, fuse box, blinker cover for my one busted on my front lower bumper and a sweet old liscense plate i found on a bumper in the yard that is perfect for my long body orange 620 in new Mexico!  Here is a pic of the liscense plate and driveshaft out. My next days off are coming up and i will be free to work on the carrier bearing and hopefully get it finished and get the centric clutch master cylinder bled and installed so i can mark those two items off my to do list before moving on. I will let yall know how it goes. Luckily all the info i need is on here already. Haha. thanks guys wish me  luck. url%5Durl%5D

 

Also just for fun. Here is the pics of ththe mural i did my last set off for a nearby elementary school. url%5Durl%5Durl%5D

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You definitely need to do some art work on your doors or something to show that skill off.... maybe your logo or something if you have one....

 

When you go to separate that driveshaft to do the carrier bearing make sure you mark it up and put it back together exactly the same..... its balanced in this orientation.... 

Edited by Crashtd420
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