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My great grandfather’s 620 is now mine.


GGPA620

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I would first do what Hainz said and try turning the engine over with a breaker bar, you only need to turn it one turn.

If it turns then I would jump the starter motor to see if it works, get a big flat edge screw driver, there are 3 connections on the starter solenoid, the main power cable from the battery, the small wire from the ignition, and the other large post that has a large short cable going to the starter motor itself, with that screw driver I jump from the main post with the cable coming from the battery to the main post that goes to the starter motor, now you make sure the transmission is in neutral and the e-brake is on, if the starter motor runs/turns over then the motor is good, when it does run/turn over it may turn the engine over or it may not turn the engine over, it depends on what is going in inside the solenoid, if it does run/turn over then I would jump from the main post that goes to the battery to the small post the wire from the ignition goes to and see if it turns over the motor, if it does then the issue is somewhere else.

This is how I get my engines to start when I have issues with the key making that clicking sound, but your truck has sat for a long time likely in a field, stuff starts to rust out in the weather, but clicking usually means the solenoid is not rusted up solid.

Be very careful when jumping the starter this way above, you can accidentally ground out the screw driver if your not careful.

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Holy fuckn shit! I GOT IT RUNNING!  Even got it to idle smooth! THANK GOD IT WASNT LOCKED UP! And thank BEAUTIFUL RATSUN BROTHERS AND SISTERS! And Datsun for making an awesome motor!  I am so pumped right now!  The tires come in monday and i need to replace the carrier bearing still. BUT IT RUNS SO BEAUTIFULLY!  I WILL WORK ON GETTING VIDEOS UPLOADED!  

So excited and proud!! I ended up trying to start simple and replaced the battety connectors and got them on snug. And it right away cranked over. the new fuel filter and i had to replace the fuel line from the filter to the pump. It was empty of course. So i primed the carb with a lil starter fluid and it started and died. Used a lil gas and it ran a lil longer......i was so excited and my grandma was there to see it!  Then i played with the gas and how much i was giving it and kept it alive and running for awhile and then it smoothed out and once it was idling all by itself i couldnt believe it. got out and checked it out! It was smooth and quiet! So excited. 

 

HOWEVER....i  did notice something leaking from somewhere under the heatsheaild on the headers????? Idk yet but i have work so i just left it at that for the day. Very satisfying!  

 

I then just removed that front brush guard to see it without it and so i can repaint it if i end up deciding to keep it. 

 

AGAIN THANK YALL ALL WHO HELPED ME OUT ALREADY!  SO MUCH!

 

HERE IS A PIC WITHOUT THE GUARD.

 

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Edited by GGPA620
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I would watch the fuel filter closely and get a few more. Hopefully you got most the old gas out.put new gas in there.

the water leak could be the water line going to the manifold.there is a rubber line right near the intake. Or the leak is right at the manifold where they mate together. Try tighten the bolts. I don’t know the year of your truck some use a water line to the manifold then there are holes in the head to pass the water .It can leak there.Later engines used a exhaust heated manifold like a wood stove with a flap. Those are horrible and heavy,hard to get bolts etc.

If you get the leak fixed drain the radiator and put the 50/50 mix from Walmart.

 

0

PB Blaster is your friend

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4 hours ago, GGPA620 said:

 

  I ended up trying to start simple and replaced the battety connectors and got them on snug.

 

 

 

KISS (keep it simple stupid) When starter only clicks assume dead battery or bad connection don't think 'starter needs to be fixed'. Start with simple and rule them out, progress to more difficult or complex. Occam's razor: "The simplest answer is most likely the correct one"

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@]2eDeYe

Thanks i really appreciate it!  I am very excited and feels good. I appreciate the help. I know its just the start now but a huge part of the process!  

 

@banzai510(hainz)

It is a 76. But i will definitely check theae out. I appreciate the help troubleshooting. Gives me somewhere to start looking! I will definitely get some more filters. Luckily the gas cleared up pretty fast in the filter so it is looking pretty clean for now. But will keep an eye on it.  PB blaster has been very helpful already!  Very glad for the tip and i am glad i got the big can haha. I will continue next week when im off and my tires come in.   Thanks again!

 

@datzenmike

 

Hahaha yea exactly what i learned today! I was scared of the worst but thanks to yall i started with the easiest and it was all it needed. Next up...the carrier bearing!  Doing my research now!  This forum is the bees knees! Thanks again mike!

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It's the rubber surround (doughnut) that needs replacing. Only one member in all of Ratsun had verified bearing failure, though many replace it anyway. I look at it as 'don't fix what ain't broken'. Fix the doughnut, save the bearing for later.

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8 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It's the rubber surround (doughnut) that needs replacing.

 

Yea i read that in another post. I definitely agree and will keep the new bearing for later. Get that swapped out and take it for a test drive. Got to get that windshield removed also before getting on the road  haha

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Tires came into so i made sure to work and get them on before i came into work tonight again. I got them on! Looking good! Had a small rake i noticed. Looking so nice tho. Got me excited! It even started up without starter fluid or gas in the carb!  Its just aching to get back on the road!  

 

HOWEVER!

 

I noticed while it was running it would not go into gear. So i tried putting it in gear while it was off and as soon as it started up it started moving forward!  Then i tried reverse same way...as soon as it started it rolled back. So the transmission seems to work. its something with the clutch i will be looking into.   When i get off tomorrow i will get it home and on jackstands and get to work on the carrier bearing. and check out the clutch. And brake system. And see what i see. 

 

VERY EXCITED its running great! And does move on its own. Lots of work ahead still but now i know its coming along!! Here is a couple victory updated pics! 

Edited by GGPA620
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Bleed the clutch? YouTube . I use a plastic bottle with a clear surgical tube open the 10mm then pump the pedal 2 or 3 times and fill the resivour till no air bubbles.

then you should be able to put in gear while running.only thing I can think of is the Throw Out Bearing is stuck. Maybe one could shoot some PB Blaster throw the hole in trans by the slave cylinder

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@banzai510(hainz)

Yesssir! That is what i will try first tomorrow!  I barely got the tires mounted and i got them on just before coming to work. Im off tomorrow so i will definitely bleed the system and hopefully thats all it is.  I am excited to get it home so i can stop hauling tools back and forth! But thanks for the info! Definitely trying this tomorrow! 

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1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

If it's been sitting the clutch disc can adhere to the pressure plate or the flywheel.

I hope not! Since it did go into gear while off and i was able to go forward in 1st gear and go in reverse does that rule that out? Maybe...hopefully haha

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1 hour ago, GGPA620 said:

 

I noticed while it was running it would not go into gear. So i tried putting it in gear while it was off and as soon as it started up it started moving forward!  Then i tried reverse same way...as soon as it started it rolled back

 

 

This tells me the clutch is not disengaging. Now this can be a couple of things.

 

Most likely...

If sitting air may have gotten into the hydraulic line. This could be simply be that the fluid level is low and topping it up may fix the problem. More likely that the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder needs to be loosened while you press the clutch down and hold. Tighten the bleeder and then let the pedal up. Repeat till only clear clean fluid comes out. Make sure the reservoir does not run dry while doing this. If working right the push rod on the slave should move just over one inch.

 

Lest likely...

The clutch is actually working but the disc is stuck to the flywheel. Put in 4th gear, hold the clutch pedal down, block the rear wheels and set the e brake. Bump the starter. The starter will try to turn the flywheel but the clutch disc is stopped from moving because in gear and connected to the rear wheels that are blocked. Only thing holding them together is whatever is sticking the disc to the flywheel.

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Well couldnt work on the soft dirt so i got it home today! Cleaned out the bed, cab, and even the motor bay. Took the hood off because theleft hinge got stuck and was popping up ruining the vent under the windshield. And also kicked out the busted windshield so i didnt make a mess at home. 

 

Found the floor pans rusted out pretty bad under the floor mat of course which sux but it could be alot worse. so thankfully just the floor pans and that hood hinge need some metal work. 

 

It runs great and really got me even more excited. Working some overtime tonight buttomorrow i will get the brake and clutch lines bled and hopefully get my pedals back. PRAYING SO. Also work on the carrier bearing. 

 

Enjoy the pics 

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25 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Amazing that the floors are so bad while the rest of the body looks solid. Must have sat with windows open for a long time.

That's how my 521 was..... only rot was passenger floor .... I figured it was from a leaky windshield.... and he did have a bad windshield....

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