My great grandfather’s 620 is now mine.

[GGPA620]

Well i went ahead and bought these rims i found at the salvage yard today. I have wont be putting them on yet but didnt want to lose out on someone else getting these. I got these for $35 per rim. Measured at 18x8! Very lightweight aluminum wheels with unique 90s style to them i don't see very much. Figure at the low cost it was worth getting and cleaning up for later. Im wondering how 18x8 rims fit on the 620 and how much i will be able to lower it with them on and not having rubbing issues or if im going to have to do some trimming. Also took the nice set of original mudflaps off the truck also. Just and update few pics from the junkyard and i will upload some once i clean the paint off them. 

These are the mudflaps but a pic stolen off the internet. miminmimine are dirty and need some cleaning Haha but in great shape. Just and update

[]2eDeYe]

Those wheels take me back lol

[GGPA620]

@]2eDeYe 

Hahaha when i saw them i firsted laughed them off remember seeing them around on trucks. I just have to figure out if they fit ot if i need to modify anything to help them fit. I still want to lower it i was planning on just a 2" static drop for starters but will cross that road when i get there. Hopefully soon. 

 

Still have a few things to finish before these wheels even get tires haha 

[GGPA620]

@Crashtd420

I really appreciate that and thats a good idea! Maybe something on the truck might look good. I will think about it. 

I took your advice and have it marked just havent got to a table vice to get it separated. I am thinking of just taking it to a shop to help me out. I'm wanting progress! Last couple weeks seem to be more parts collecting then progress on the build. But i am making moves for it at least. Progress shots and updates soon!

[wayno]

Does that say "Valley View Vikings" on that wall?

[GGPA620]

20 hours ago, wayno said:

Does that say "Valley View Vikings" on that wall?

 

Yessir it does! For a elementary school in Roswell New Mexico. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Wheels?

Im thinking stock wheels painted white with hubcaps

[GGPA620]

@banzai510(hainz)

 

Ya i decided to hold off on the other rims for now. They are actually 17x8  but i have enough to work on for now and will be focused on jujust getting back on the road. 

[GGPA620]

Well still making slow progress on the 620. Having a hell of a time bleeding the clutch. Replaced master and slave. Not just waiting for a day after these holidays to get out there with a friend to give a another shot.  Also ordered some u joints to replace while i have the driveshaft out for the carrier bearing. 

 

In the meantime i was going to need new rearview mirrors so i went ahead and ordered me a pair of the oem bluebird fender mirrors. Very excited about them but not allowing myself to install them until my other work is done. I did test fit the rims again and will have plenty of room with them with a medium tire thickness. Hope everyone is doing good and has a safe new years!  Some more pics of course of the mirrors im sure youve seen tho haha. 

 

 

Also found the fender emblems i needed! Got those on the way also! But will be focused on getting my other stuff done first before adding any visual fun just yet. 

[datzenmike]

 Have someone work the clutch pedal and you watch the flex line between body and the slave. Does the hose swell under pressure?

 

Normal Nissan slave push rod travel is 1.1". If it is it's working.

[Crashtd420]

I had a friend help do the press and hold method and vacuum bleed with no good result.. 

There is a trick I learned about bleeding a new master, I think datsunmike already commented about making a brake line and j hooking it back into the reservoir....

You probably have air still in the master cylinder....

What I had to do was push the brake or clutch pedal to the floor.... cover the output of the brake line , release the pedal and let the master suck in fluid...

Then remove your finger.... 

Do that 2 or 3 times then reconnect the lines and bleed the system like normal at the slave or caliper with a vacuum bleed or push and hold method....

 

[datzenmike]

I've never had a problem bleeding a slave. Mainly because fluid runs down hill once started. Open bleeder, give a couple of pumps crawl under watch till no bubbles and close bleeder.

[GGPA620]

Yea im sure i sound like a idiot. Haha it is giving me more trouble then i expected. I appreciate the tips because i know the master still must have air like yall said. Got dome hose to try and bench bleed it. I dont have a vice so i am trying it while installed in place.  So far just haven't had time off on days my brother can come over to press the clutch in for me so its been a uphill battle haha. I stopped trying to prevent adding more air into the line.  But i will give yalls advice a try this weekend. 

 

Also im not too proud to say i got the driveshaft out but will be taking to a buddies shop nearby to get some help replacing the carrier bearing so I can mark it off the list that seems to just keep growing. Haha. But i am still loving it just not going as smooth as i had in my dreams haha. Thankful for this forum and books i have available. 

[GGPA620]

@datzenmike

 

Yea im pretty sure its just i have air in the master so its not pushing through the line yet. Once i get that I'm pretty sure itll do just as you said. Something so simple takes me a lil longer.  Nothing unusual but i will get it! Thanks @Crashtd420 also for the tips 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Bleeding the master is usually a lot less important than people think, especially on a clutch master (single circuit).  On a clutch circuit, I find that simple gravity bleeding is sufficient.

 

If the master is not adjust properly, it can cause it to feel mushy or not give enough throw. Have you adjusted the pedal stops? If so, that may be part of your problem.

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Bleeding the master is usually a lot less important than people think, especially on a clutch master (single circuit).  On a clutch circuit, I find that simple gravity bleeding is sufficient.

 

If the master is not adjust properly, it can cause it to feel mushy or not give enough throw. Have you adjusted the pedal stops? If so, that may be part of your problem.

Stoffregen are you bench bleeding it first?

With both my clutch and dual master I could not get a pedal till I did what I described.... 

Edited December 31, 2019 by Crashtd420

[GGPA620]

@Stoffregen Motorsports i have not messed with pedal stops at all so i will check that out now. I was hoping gravity bleeding would be enough but i think i need to do what yall are saying with the hook and holding my finger over the line to let the master actually suck some fluid into it. Right now the level of the master is not changing so that makes sense to to that j hook method first and get it primed then it should go to the regular bleeding. Hopefully anyways. 

 

Once again I'm pointed in a better direction. Kind of been at a stand still with it. A little embarrassed to say it on here but yall gave me something to try. Will give it a shot and update back! Thanks guys! 

@Stoffregen Motorsports @Crashtd420 @datzenmike

[banzai510(hainz)]

ON a clutch master I had proplems bleeding once I just put my finger over the hole inside the resivoir and bam it worked after that. Don't know if there was a bubble in there or what but it worked after that.

[GGPA620]

@banzai510(hainz) thanks for the chime in! I will try this too! 

[banzai510(hainz)]

well some one pushed on the pedal when holding finger over hole

[GGPA620]

@banzai510(hainz) haha appreciate the clarification! 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

22 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Stoffregen are you bench bleeding it first?

With both my clutch and dual master I could not get a pedal till I did what I described.... 

I don't always bench bleed. The method I use is sort of similar. With a bleeder open, and the reservoir full, I move the pedal in-out slowly (very slowly) until I notice fluid coming out of the bleeder. If fluid is running, I know the master is working. It doesn't take long to do it this way, and I've been doing it this way for years.

 

The key to this method is moving slowly.

 

Bench bleeding should also be done very slowly, and with clear tubing so you can watch the bubbles. I push the rod in-out until the bubbles run all the way into the reservoir and then slowly back the rod out to suck in fluid. If you do this too quickly, you basically keep sucking the same bubbles back into the master bore. You also don't have to push the rod all the way in-out. If you find a spot where the bubbles are persistent, keep working in-out until the bubbles disappear into the reservoir.

 

I will mention that the reason I don't always bench bleed is that a lot of my builds include new paint, and I don't want to drip fluid while installing a full master cylinder.

Edited January 1, 2020 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[datzenmike]

Don't forget to check this. Maybe nothing is wrong with the hydraulics.

 

On 12/31/2019 at 5:57 AM, datzenmike said:

 Have someone work the clutch pedal and you watch the flex line between body and the slave. Does the hose swell under pressure?

 

Normal Nissan slave push rod travel is 1.1". If it is it's working.

 

[GGPA620]

@Stoffregen Motorsports @datzenmike

Alright will do this weekend on my next set off. Really glad i have so much to troubleshoot and get this done! 

[GGPA620]

Just another update...

 

Well I am trying to focus on one task then move to the next without getting in a rush. I decided since I have no table vice to hold my driveshaft safely to get to the carrier bearing I called a one man mechanic shop I’ve used in the past.  I was able to have him replace my carrier bearing and went ahead and had him replace my u joints all for only $125! I know it’s cheating and I do. Or get the glory of fixing that, it does feel good it is done! So today I focused on just getting it out back in. And I did! One small victory felt great. It is installed and off my to do list. Next my brother came over to help me troubleshoot a few things on the clutch hydraulic system with everyone’s tips. Again not in a rush.
I went ahead and bench bled the master again with him I was able to watch the bubbles circulating until they were no more bubbles. He had to leave before I ride bleeding the slave. However I did notice when I was bench bleeding if he released the pedal quickly I could hear a small suction sound like air being drawn in somewhere. And would continue bubbling. When I slowed down like @Stoffregen Motorsports mentioned I could not hear the sound and would eventually get all of the bubbles out. My concern was if maybe the master did have a leak or a fault even tho it’s “new”. I will continue troubleshooting and using the methods recommended by everyone.

 

Just wanted to give a quick update about the driveshaft/carrier bearing/and u joints being replaced and back on! Moving forward at a snails pace haha. 
hope everyone is having a good weekend.