datsunfreak Posted September 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 After remaking the seat rails with the seat mounted 3" farther back than before, I was worried I may have gotten greedy and gone too far back. As it turns out, they are in the exact right spot... 😋 Now though they are far enough back that I think we need to add some supports to the trailing edge of the rail. Think I will do that with something like this... ' 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 Made pedal stops (to limit up travel) for both pedals. They will get felt pads on them so it doesn't clank when you let off the pedal. Still need to sort out springs to hold them up, and install a brake light switch in that one on the right... I was looking at the pin on the brake pedal for the master cylinder push rod to attach to and not liking where it was in relation to the master. Also did some research on the proper pedal ratio for non-boosted brakes (staying with a manual booster) and realized mine was quite a bit off. It was at 4.3:1, and ideally it needs to be between 5:1 and 6:1 for manual brakes on a car this size/weight to keep the pedal from being too hard. 5:1 would be firm side, 6:1 would be on the soft side. So I marked off where 5:1 is and where 5.2:1 is and debated... Decided on 5:1 to guarantee maximum stroke on the pedal... Jammed in a bolt there to give it a look see... Lines up much better with the master cylinder now also. Hard to tell from that pic (couldn't get a good angle, in a tight spot) but it is well centered with the hole through the range of the pedal... While I was doing that I was looking at a similar issue with the clutch pedal. To get the pedal in the perfect spot left-to-right for maximum stroke, it is a little too far to the right to line up perfectly with the clutch master cylinder push rod. So decided some mods were in order there also. Removed stock push rod pin... Jammed a bolt in there and gave it a test run... This let me move the push rod clevis a little to the left so it has a straight push into the master cylinder. 👍 I bought some shouldered bolts to use for this so those will get welded in and trimmed to the right length. This way the clevis rides on the smooth shoulder, not the threads of the bolt. 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2021 Well, I bought some bolts for the pins... Then I sort of changed my mind on how to do it. Got to thinking about how Nissan does it, and decided I want to use these style clips instead... Then got some longer bolts and cut the threads off... I fit those up the car to mark where the pushrod needs to be on the "pin" and drilled a hole in each one for the clip. Then Tim welded them in for me... And both done... Clutch push rod lines up much better now... As does brake push rod... Pulled them both back out again to paint them in preparation for (hopefully) the final install. I still need to confirm the proper length for the brake master push rod, and that means installing the brake master cylinder now. Decided that in an effort to keep it from looking crusty later, I would go ahead and paint it... It also has outlets on both sides, so I need to decided which side to plug as soon as it's installed. Hoping to get that bolted in on Wednesday so I can install the pedals for the last time... 5 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 On 11/6/2021 at 5:19 PM, datsunfreak said: Hoping to get that bolted in on Wednesday so I can install the pedals for the last time... Well, I was half right... After that, it took a lot of cussing and fussing to not only get the brake pedal push rod to the right length, but to make it (hopefully) match the pedal height of the clutch. I think I am there, but with the daylight savings time change (and lack of lighting outside the shop), I wasn't able to do the final nut and bolt. The brake pedal is at a good height and moves smoothly though it's arc, and the pedal/master bottoms out with the pedal about 1/2" off the floor so we are definitely getting full stroke. With the clutch pedal at the same resting height as the brake it bottoms out about 2" off the floor. Tim feels this is too high, I am undecided. We may add a pedal stop to it somewhere to prevent bottoming out that master. The return spring inside the brake master is very strong, so I don't think it needs one on the pedal, just a bump stop at the top. I will probably add a return spring for the clutch pedal though, as it's a bit weaker, but it may just be old and worn out? It was purchased used just for mock-up purposes and will be replaced with a new one shortly. I also need to remember to install a brake light switch in the pedal bump stop and to add a flange on the pedal to trip the switch before the "final" install. 😁 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Good idea with the welded pin. No nut/bolt to work loose and create play. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 (edited) I made a little thing... Tapped those two holes with an M6 tap, then drilled two corresponding holes in the brake pedal, then bolted the two together... Why you may ask? To trigger a Datsun brake light switch, which will mount like so... I now need to re-drill the mounting holes for that pedal bumper/switch mounting plate, because... I decided the pedals were just a bit too high for my liking and dropped them down an inch lower than before... 😄 Brake pedal now bottoms out the master right when the pedal hits the floor (should never go that low once functional), and the clutch pedal bottoms out the master when it's about 1/2" from hitting the floor. That should be low enough to preclude having a pedal stop at the bottom, but I won't worry about that until it's drivable. No sense fixing a problem that doesn't exist, and may never... Clutch pedal push rod shimmed for best alignment and function. It's a bit ugly, but none of it is visible once the dash is in... Unfortunately, I did not have any shims for the brake pedal push rod, so still a bit more work to do there... Pedals were actually bolted in for the last time, just the peripherals to go now. Need to get cracking on finishing the dash soon, as well as getting the engine/trans prepped for install... Edited November 14, 2021 by datsunfreak 5 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2021 I am starting to get the feeling no one but me is interested in all this tedious little shit... 😄 Hopefully I will have something sexier for you guys soon... 2 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted November 15, 2021 Report Share Posted November 15, 2021 3 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: tedious little shit... It sure ain't sexy but bein' anal about all that will be so rewarding in the end... and you'll be happy 1 Quote Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted November 16, 2021 Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, datsunfreak said: I am starting to get the feeling no one but me is interested in all this tedious little shit... 😄 Hopefully I will have something sexier for you guys soon... I enjoy when a photo dump comes. I see you used the same Datsun brake switch I used on my ford. Edited November 16, 2021 by Mattndew76 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted November 16, 2021 Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, datsunfreak said: I am starting to get the feeling no one but me is interested in all this tedious little shit... 😄 Hopefully I will have something sexier for you guys soon... I enjoy the detail quite a bit. I have been accused of paying attention to the details a bit too much, but I like stuff done correctly. I usually drop some likes, but I don't always have much to add to the commentary. Please continue, and know that there are certainly more then myself who enjoy the updates. 😎 👍 Edited November 16, 2021 by Duncan 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 9 hours ago, Mattndew76 said: I see you used the same Datsun brake switch I used on my ford. I had this one set aside for Tim's 1200, but he decided on a different type of switch. I was googling around and discovered that this type of switch is not only still available new from Beck/Arnley, but it was used on almost every Japanese car from the 70s and 80s. At least this way, if it goes bad, it will be easy to source another one. 👍 And I did test it first. 😄 8 hours ago, Duncan said: Please continue, and know that there are certainly more then myself who enjoy the updates. Thank you sir. 😁 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 16, 2021 Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 I with Duncan. I read every post, I just don't always have something useful to add. 2 Quote Link to comment
Racer X 69 Posted November 16, 2021 Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 Like Duncan and Lockleaf, I am fascinated with most every installment, but don’t always have a witty retort. So, yeah, keep us posted. We are all eager to see the first start and first drive videos. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 Well, I wasn't fishing, but I like what I caught... 😋 3 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 3 hours ago, datsunfreak said: Well, I wasn't fishing, but I like what I caught... 😋 I've been hooked from the git-go....😎 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 13 hours ago, Duncan said: I've been hooked from the git-go....😎 Funny, I've never really had second thoughts, until I saw this while scrolling through instagram today... 😄 4 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 23 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: Funny, I've never really had second thoughts, until I saw this while scrolling through instagram today... 😄 I've always like the look of those. That one is cool, but I've never cared too much for the lambo doors myself. 1 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 I'm suspect of the long term functioning of those doors and the Lambo door kits. GM was never able to build a T-Top that didn't end up leaking, and the retractable roof in the Blazer(?) XUV was a more recent example. Show car cool for sure. That said, I'll be guilty of an aftermarket retractable sunroof in my build (eventually, the hole already exists) which I intend to add in a bunch of reinforecements to keep it more rigid. I'm warning myself, hope I'll listen! 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2021 13 hours ago, EDM620 said: GM was never able to build a T-Top that didn't end up leaking I know on the old Camaros/Firebirds the joke was you could never do a burnout with them off the car, as it would make them leak. 😋 13 hours ago, EDM620 said: I'll be guilty of an aftermarket retractable sunroof in my build (eventually, the hole already exists) which I intend to add in a bunch of reinforcements to keep it more rigid. If you're talking about the truck, I would think as long as it's something with a full frame, the roof is a lot less "structural"? Or it is just introducing leaks you're worried about? Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted November 19, 2021 Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 10 hours ago, datsunfreak said: I know on the old Camaros/Firebirds the joke was you could never do a burnout with them off the car, as it would make them leak. 😋 If you're talking about the truck, I would think as long as it's something with a full frame, the roof is a lot less "structural"? Or it is just introducing leaks you're worried about? Yea mostly concerned about keeping it watertight, the sunroof that was already in it amazingly was leak-free considering how rotten the gasket was. I expect I'll need to make some internal frame for the headliner to properly hang from, so adding some roof stiffening to the sheetmetal is in the plan. This outward retracting sunroof is a very big opening and has potential for doubling as a spoiler, stress loading the roof skin some. It's like this, and fully open will extend beyond the roof. Water leaks wrecks shit so fast and was #1 reason for 620 floors to rot out, though that leaks comes from the cowl rotting out first. 1 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted November 19, 2021 Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 On 11/16/2021 at 8:52 AM, Lockleaf said: I with Duncan. I read every post, I just don't always have something useful to add. I enjoy the direction you're going with this build and always liked that body with the angled forward aggressive front end. I'm often looking from my phone as I'm on the highway daily, don't respond unless I'm on my computer. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted November 25, 2021 Report Share Posted November 25, 2021 On 11/18/2021 at 5:56 AM, datsunfreak said: I know on the old Camaros/Firebirds the joke was you could never do a burnout with them off the car, as it would make them leak. 😋 I've owned a couple of Corvettes and everyone of them with T-tops leaked. I even bought a brand new '91, and it leaked right from new. I've never heard anyone mention it before, (until now) but I always assumed the rest of the GM offerings did the same... Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted November 25, 2021 Report Share Posted November 25, 2021 On 11/17/2021 at 3:58 PM, EDM620 said: I'm suspect of the long term functioning of those doors and the Lambo door kits. Before I bought my '40 Ford, I looked at similar era cars. A lot of those cars had been converted to electric windows, and/or had shaved door handles with the solenoid openers that stopped working. If I saw a car with either of those mods, it was an immediate deal killer. A lot of that stuff is cheap Chinese junk. The '80's and "90's were not kind to a lot of cars... Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2021 2 hours ago, Duncan said: The '80's and "90's were not kind to a lot of cars... No, they were not... 😄 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2021 23 hours ago, Duncan said: I've owned a couple of Corvettes and everyone of them with T-tops leaked. I even bought a brand new '91, and it leaked right from new. I've never heard anyone mention it before, (until now) but I always assumed the rest of the GM offerings did the same... They all do, unless you never take them off. 😁 Oddly, never seen this problem with Japanese cars. Their T-tops seem to be mostly leak free... Quote Link to comment
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