edgar Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 hey guys, and gals... im new to this forum and to the datsun world. i got a freshly rebuilt ka24de from a 91 240sx with 5 spd tranny. i rebuilt the engine myself after my bro seized it up during and overheat.. anyway, i also just got my hands on a 79 210 wagon and wanna swap the ka into it.. i cant really find anything for this particular swap. mostly 510 stuff. the wagons an auto if that helps, but my questions are: does it drop right in? if so, what other clearance issues do i have to worry about? and how do i wire it up? again, have looked at a bunch of posts and cant find anything specific. if someone can help me out with a link or any helpful info on this swap, i'd greatly appreciate it. thanks in advance. 1 Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Has anyone done a ka24de swap in a '86 720 2wd? Quote Link to comment
NissanFam Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 ^^ I'm about to. lol. pulling the z24 out this weekend. I've got a 2wd '86 720 as well but the motor was "rebuilt" before purchase and I found out after purchase that it burns 3 qts of oil in 2 weeks and now doesn't start on its own. Sooooooooooooooooooooo I've got a spare ka laying in the garage that will be seeing a new home very soon. Doing some research myself before diving in. Mainly the electrical is throwing me off. I want that Can/Am box that Icehouse sells... just not entirely sure on how it works. Yet I don't want to tackle the 34 page thread lol. Looks like I've got some light reading ahead of me. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Has anyone done a ka24de swap in a '86 720 2wd? Supposedly you can mix and match the Z2X mounts and the KA mounts and get it to fit. ^^ I'm about to. lol. pulling the z24 out this weekend. I've got a 2wd '86 720 as well but the motor was "rebuilt" before purchase and I found out after purchase that it burns 3 qts of oil in 2 weeks and now doesn't start on its own. Sooooooooooooooooooooo I've got a spare ka laying in the garage that will be seeing a new home very soon. Doing some research myself before diving in. Mainly the electrical is throwing me off. I want that Can/Am box that Icehouse sells... just not entirely sure on how it works. Yet I don't want to tackle the 34 page thread lol. Looks like I've got some light reading ahead of me. First post in this thread should have all the information you need to wire it up. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/537-how-to-wire-a-ka-ca-sr-and-vg-into-anything/ Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Yeah, I've actually seen it done in person now. It was at a meet here in Vegas. I don't know how he did it because I never got to talk to him but it was in there. It sat a little high probably because of oil pan clearance. But I have found a thread where someone swapped in a KA24DE already. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 would it be good to slice out some of the oil pan? Quote Link to comment
BlackBird620 Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 would it be good to slice out some of the oil pan? As long as you know someone you trust to weld it back together to not leak and hold under pressure Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 wow.... a pinned thread about DE's ive missed....... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 SR20DE is aresome! DEs forever. Quote Link to comment
Nickjames209 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 if you want to take out the swirl control valve (butterfly valves in intake man.) use the lower S13 intake man and upper S14 intake man. the S14 DID NOT have the valves. and also if you have S14 swap out both cams from the S13, the S13 have larger cams. 1 Quote Link to comment
DruDown720 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Ok I had a question with the wiring and the ecu best way to integrate the 97 altma ecu and how much of the internal dash harness Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 I did not read this article, so I'm sorry I this is a double post, but I'd like to share some info I hve learned recently.I have found out thAt the KA24DE in a Frontier / Xterra is actually a "single cam block" with a dohc head on it. It uses a distributor and oil pump ran off the nose of the crank, therefore practically being very close identical to the KA24E. It even has a single row timing assembly like the sohc KA.Now, I want to share this info with those seeking to carb their DOHC. (Frontier / Xterra DOHC, that is.)Off the top of my head I've came up with two ideas......1. Sohc KA block with Frontier / Xterra head, NOT tested! Add an L series dizzy and some carbs! Nice! a. I have not confirmed this, I'm unsure if it is doable.2. Stock Xterra / Frontier engine with SOHC KA oil pan (for front sump, of course) and then put a L series distributor, and carbs - NICE! Debate! Quote Link to comment
dime'n daily Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 had a question about throttle cable and pedal for ka 510 been researching all day... some people say the best option is an 80-83 200sx pedal and cable but seems like it would be hard to come by... then some say 240sx pedal and cable which is easy to find...actually will be picking up a cable and pedal tomorrow after work. now if i choose to cut and weld the 240 end onto the end of the 510 pedal what would be used as a return spring if any? (seems like the least work) thats why i want to see if i can make the 240 pedal work cause that one already has a spring on the pedal assembly unlike the 510. only reason i say i want to see if i can make it work is because i dont have a welder or any welding skills (needs to change soon hopefully) if anyone has done it or can chime in it would be highly appreciated Quote Link to comment
dime'n daily Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 so you have something to look at instead of just words 240 pedal 510 pedal picture of a 240 pedal in a 510 that someone made a bracket for...might see if i can do something like that...i would like to keep the stock 510 pedal..guess well see tomorrow night Quote Link to comment
katillidie Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 has anyone removed the pcv system on the intake on these ka's? if so any driveability issues? yes i deleted the 4 lines going to one under the intake runners and just ran a hose from the pcv valve to a oil catch can so there is no longer oil getting into my intake.... Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Here is some more KA-DE info that might be handy to someone doing a swap. These are things you can remove from the engine and wiring harness and still have the car function perfectly: -Crank angle sensor (located on transmission bell housing -S14 models) it looks like my s13 harness has this and would like to clarify if it can be removed without consequence Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 This applies to the following engine:1991 Nissan 240SX KA24DE Manual Transmission 49-State Federal1 – White (shielded) – Ignition signal – to trigger pin of power transistor2 – Yellow/Red – Tachometer – to tachometer3 – Yellow/Red – Ignition check – to resistor4 – Red/Black – ECCS relay (Self-shutoff) – to ground pin of ECCS relay56 – Black – Ground – to ground7 – Green/Black – CONSULT Receive (RX) – to CONSULT RX8 9 – Orange/Blue – Condenser fan relay – to ground pin of condenser fan relay1011 – Green/Yellow – Air conditioner relay – to ground pin of air conditioner relay1213 – Black – Ground – to ground14 – Green/White – CONSULT Clock (CLK) – to CONSULT CLK15 – Green – CONSULT Transmit (TX) – to CONSULT TX16 – White (shielded) – Mass air flow sensor – to signal pin of mass air flow sensor17 – Black (shielded – Ground – to ground18 – Blue/Orange – Engine coolant temperature sensor – to engine coolant temperature sensor19 – White (shielded) – Oxygen sensor – to oxygen sensor20 – White (shielded) – Throttle position sensor (TPS) – to signal pin of TPS21 – Black – Sensor ground – to ground pins of TPS and engine coolant temperature sensor22 – White (shielded) – Crankshaft position sensor (Reference signal) – to pin “d” of crankshaft position sensor23 – Green/Red – CONSULT Check (CHK) – to CONSULT CHK24 – Red – Check Engine Light (CEL) – to CEL25 – Gray – Swirl control valve control solenoid valve – not needed2627 – White (shielded) – Knock sensor – to knock sensor2829 – Black – Sensor ground – to ground pins of TPS and engine coolant temperature sensor30 – White (shielded) – Crankshaft position sensor (Reference signal) – to pin “d” of crankshaft position sensor31 – Black (shielded) – Crankshaft position sensor (Position signal) – to pin “c” of crankshaft position sensor32 – Yellow/Green – Speed signal – to speedometer33 – Yellow/Blue – 5th position switch – to 5th position switch34 – Orange – Start signal – 10A fused power when ignition is turned to ST35 – Green/Orange – Neutral position switch – to neutral position switch36 – Black/Red – Ignition switch – 30A fused power when ignition is turned to ON or ST37 – Light Green/Red – Throttle position sensor power supply – to power pin of throttle position sensor38 – Black/White – Power supply for ECM – load pin of ECCS relay39 – Black – Ground – to ground40 – Black (shielded) – Crankshaft position sensor (Position signal) – to pin “c” of crankshaft position sensor41 – Blue/Green – Air conditioner switch – to thermo control amp42 – Yellow/Red – 4th position switch – to 4th position switch43 – Brown – Power steering oil pressure switch – to power steering oil pressure switch44 – Green/Yellow – Rear window defogger relay – to ground pin of rear window defogger relay45 – Green/Blue – Fan switch – to ambient switch46 – Red – Power supply (Back-up) – 25A fused constant power47 – Black/White – Power supply for ECM – load pin of ECCS relay48 – Black – Ground – to ground101 – White/Black – Injector Number 1 – to injector Number 1102 – Pink – Pulsed Secondary Air Injection Valve control solenoid valve – not needed103 – Green/Black – Injector Number 3 – to injector Number 3104 – Black/Pink – Fuel pump relay – to ground pin of fuel pump relay105 – Light Green – Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and canister control solenoid valve – not needed106107 – Black – Sensor Ground – to ground108 – Black – Sensor Ground – to ground109 – Red – Power supply (Back-up) – 25A fused constant power110 – Yellow/Black – Injector Number 2 – to injector Number 2111112 – Blue/Black – Injector Number 4 – to injector Number 4113 – Sky Blue – Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Auxiliary Air Control (AAC) valve – to IACV-AAC valve114115116 – Black – Sensor Ground – to ground============================================This is the engine harness. Nissan calls it the "E.F.I." harness. Given a completely stock harness, the only wiring that is needed to fit this engine/ECU combination into any chassis will be done through the connectors highlighted in the picture:==========================================This is the "F1" plug pinout. It's the brown plug under the dash that connects to the engine harness next to the ECU.This is the pinout for the F1 plug:Going top to bottom, left to right:1 - Green/Red - CONSULT CHK - to CONSULT CHK pin2 - Black - Ground - to engine ground3 4 - Red - CEL - to CEL5 - Green/White - CONSULT Clock (CLK) – to CONSULT CLK pin6 - Green/Yellow - Rear window defogger relay ground - to ground pin of rear window defogger relay7 - Green/Black - CONSULT Receive (RX) – to CONSULT RX8 - Green - CONSULT Transmit (TX) – to CONSULT TX9 - Orange - Start signal – 10A fused power when ignition is turned to ST10111213 - Blue/Green – Air conditioner switch – to thermo control amp 14 - Yellow/Green – Speed signal – to speedometer 15 - Yellow/Red – Tachometer – to tachometer 16=============================================The F8 and F9 plugs sit behind the battery box area. They're usually referred to as the white (although it looks more gray) and brown connectors by the FSM.Pinout for F8:Going top to bottom, left to right:1 2 - Blue/Green - Air conditioner relay power for fast idle control device (FICD) - to load pin of air conditioner relay3 - Orange/Blue - Condenser fan relay – to ground pin of condenser fan relay4 - Black/White - Power supply for ECM – load pin of ECCS relay5 - Green/Yellow - Air conditioner relay – to ground pin of air conditioner relay6 - Red - Power supply (Back-up) – 25A fused constant power7 - Black/Red - Ignition switch – 30A fused power when ignition is turned to ON8 - Green/Blue - Fan switch – to ambient switchPinout for F9:Going top to bottom, left to right:1 - Red/Black - ECCS relay (Self-shutoff) – to ground pin of ECCS relay2 - Black/Pink - Fuel pump relay – to ground pin of fuel pump relay3 - Black/Yellow - Air regulator power - to load pin of fuel pump relay4 - Green/Orange - Neutral position switch – to neutral position switch5 - Yellow/Blue - 5th position switch – to 5th position switch6 - Pink - Pulsed Secondary Air Injection Valve control solenoid valve – not needed7 - Yellow/Red - 4th position switch – to 4th position switch8 - Brown - IACV-AAC power - to 10A fused power when ignition switch is turned to ON/ST================================================Bare minimum needed to make the engine run without throwing any CEL code:F1: nothingF8: 4 - Black/White - Power supply for ECM – load pin of ECCS relay6 - Red - Power supply (Back-up) – 25A fused constant power7 - Black/Red - Ignition switch – 30A fused power when ignition is turned to ONF9:1 - Red/Black - ECCS relay (Self-shutoff) – to ground pin of ECCS relay2 - Black/Pink - Fuel pump relay – to ground pin of fuel pump relay3 - Black/Yellow - Air regulator power - to load pin of fuel pump relay8 - Brown - IACV-AAC power - to 10A fused power when ignition switch is turned to ON/STI recommend you also add the following wires for maximum driveability:F1:9 - Orange - Start signal – 10A fused power when ignition is turned to STF8:NothingF9:4 - Green/Orange - Neutral position switch – to neutral position switch5 - Yellow/Blue - 5th position switch – to 5th position switch7 - Yellow/Red - 4th position switch – to 4th position switch 6 Quote Link to comment
ol' 320 Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Tendril, is this running yet? Sent you a PM. Very much want to speak with you. Thank you for the detailed post. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 http://cobratransmission.com/nissan-fs5w71c-synchro-bearing-gasket-and-seal-kit-50042027-1 3 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 hes sharing info.... pic proof of p/n Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 its a sender they used for 10-ish years but it plugs into the ka and also sr/rb harness i believe Quote Link to comment
goes2fast Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 its a sender they used for 10-ish years but it plugs into the ka and also sr/rb harness i believe Thanks for the info! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
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