datzenmike Posted October 14, 2018 Report Share Posted October 14, 2018 If the Canby show is on this June I'll see you there! Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted October 15, 2018 Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 I’m running a 280zx clutch and flywheel behind my L20. If you are using a stock trans, I am not sure which throw out bearing/sleeve combination you would need though. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted October 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: If the Canby show is on this June I'll see you there! Yeah, sounds like a plan. Im in the bay area. So it's really not that bad a drive. 2 minutes ago, dukerollo said: I’m running a 280zx clutch and flywheel behind my L20. If you are using a stock trans, I am not sure which throw out bearing/sleeve combination you would need though. I am running a (i believe) stock four speed. I plan to measure out my 5 speed, its just buried at the moment. Ill probably re use my "original to me" collar since the car seemed to shift fine. If not, ill figure something out. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted October 15, 2018 Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 All those issues and im sure this thing still cost a fortune... Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted October 15, 2018 Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 (edited) That's an odd way to resurface a flywheel. Personally, I don't like it. Quote Video of a better method that produces a non-directional finish. ...but who am I to say anything. Edited October 15, 2018 by mhub91 Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted October 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 Right outta highschool i worked in a machine shop. Learned to bake blocks, rebuild heads, turn rotors, drums, FLYWHEELS among other things. And thats how we turned our flywheels, on a horizontal machine with a grinding head. When the dude put it on the lathe i kinda scratched my head, but thought he knew what he was doing, and it being aluminum i thought that maybe made a difference to. As in maybe its an easier way to cut the surface. I dont know. What i do know is yes, its an expensive problem, and a learning curve. But hey, i wanted a project. Just not an aluminum flywheel with no steel insert. On to ordering parts... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 15, 2018 Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 13 hours ago, 510revisited said: Sounds good to me mike. Again, thanks for all your wisdom and help. Wish i could buy ya a beer. Ill order a flywheel here in a day or so. Now, what do i do for bolts for the flywheel.. arp doesnt list them. Arp has flywheel bolts, and washers, I bought them for my l16 flywheel.... They should be the same threads as the L20B, just need one more than me.... I can try and find the part number after work if no one posts it first.... I wanna say they were just m12 flywheel bolts, not something specifically sold for nissan or datsun.... but I'm not 100% sure of that .... Trying looking under nissan not datsun on the arp sight that's where I found the l20b parts listed ... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 15, 2018 Report Share Posted October 15, 2018 whats wrong with the ones he has now? Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 6 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: whats wrong with the ones he has now? I know at least in my line of work (high rises, bridges, anything iron) we do not re use torqued bolts. Its no biggie. Im in there, i dont mind spending the money for peace of mind...blah blah blah. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 13 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Arp has flywheel bolts, and washers, I bought them for my l16 flywheel.... They should be the same threads as the L20B, just need one more than me.... I can try and find the part number after work if no one posts it first.... I wanna say they were just m12 flywheel bolts, not something specifically sold for nissan or datsun.... but I'm not 100% sure of that .... Trying looking under nissan not datsun on the arp sight that's where I found the l20b parts listed ... L16 flywheel has 5 bolts, i have six. (Im an expert on all things l series flywheel now. Got my certificate in a couple hours ???????) correct me if im wrong. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2018 Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 These are not torque to yield bolts used today that have been stretched. They can be re-used same as the L series head bolts.. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2018 I think im up to a keg with you mike. You haven't steered me wrong yet. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 18, 2018 Report Share Posted October 18, 2018 I use mine 3 times on my flywheels Believe me they are good. torq to sspec. Jap bolt are good that are used in the correct places. Now the door bolts in to the body on a 510 are WEAK!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted November 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 So, just a quick update. Ordered a lightened flywheel from California datsun and a clutch kit from zcarsource. Clutch arrived, just waiting on the flywheel. Here is a screenshot of what i ordered Just a quick question. Anyone forsee a problem with this setup? My one concern is the to bearing sleeve, i.e. is mine the right length.. if you guys need a measurement of the sleeve length i can get that info mañana. Any and all is appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 how do we know what sleeve you had in there? what was in there? before? photos 200mm 225mm what? otherwise you could be pulling the trans again. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 I guess i had that coming. Sorry for the delay. Here is the info. Sleeve is 1 5/8 inch, Clutch disk and fly wheel are 7 7/8 inch (flywheel was stated in a previous post) Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted November 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) Ok. So im in a jam. Literally. Here's the problem. Ill TRY and keep it simple. I just finished installing a lightened fly wheel and clutch into my 69 510 with an l20b. Clutch is for a 70-74 240-260z. Flywheel is for a non turbo z. 225mm. Put it all together with no hiccups. Went to start the car and nothing. Starter solenoid clicks, but wont turn the motor. I figured the battery was dead so im charging it as we speak. I tried to use the "engine start" function on the battery charger and still nothing. Just a solenoid click. Car drove and started before i replaced the clutch. Im wondering if the ring gear is a different pattern than my original flywheel. Any chance of that?? The motor will turn over with a wrench on the crank pulley. Im frustrated to no end with this thing. I just want to get it on the road. HELP!!!!! Edit: so its not the battery and the starter actually works. To clarify i bought a new battery, and pulled the starter to watch the gear spin and jump in and out. The starter will not physically move the flywheel. I even bought a new starter out of an 83 zx to see if that would help... Edited November 17, 2018 by 510revisited Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 Forensics is the key. Think about what was changed prior to the problem occurring. Sounds like you're on the right track. The simplest thing would be to grab another starter, either from a friend or buy a cheap auto parts store starter and test it out. If you find that you still have the problem, then you're out, what? $30? Hate to throw that metality into the mix, but if you don't want to pull the flywheel off again, start trying other things. Answer to your question: yes, the ring gear could be at fault. Not likely though. 1 Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted November 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 (edited) Thats how ive been approaching this. Forensically. Ive trouble shot every aspect i can think of. New battery (the one that came with the car was 3 years old, not bad but no biggie) new starter. I was able to peak through from under neath and saw that the gear meshes with the flywheel, so thats out of the question. Verified by yes, removing the damn tranny again. Made sure the clutch plate wasn't bound. I have been doing some research and everything seems to point to a bad ground. Which makes no sense in my brain, but anything is possible i guess. Wouldnt hurt to get new cables seeing as how they are a bit janky... thats the next move. Edited November 19, 2018 by 510revisited Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 ITS ALIVE!!!!!! I have no idea what i did different this time, but it starts and runs... maybe its my daughter, she seems to bring good luck. Ya, thats it!!!! Well except when she pressed the clutch pedal down when the slave cylinder was dangling. A new one is on the way. I swear this car is a calamity of errors. I will persevere though. "Can't" is not in my vocabulary. Next week should see it on the road. Fingers crossed. One quick question. Anyone got a lead on a temp sending unit for an l20b? 1 Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2018 So with the blessing of the rain gods, i got some time off during the week and was able to get the car on the road. I MAKE FIRE!!! Ill say this, this clutch set up is sensitive. Barely let the pedal out and she jumps.. On to the latest and greatest problem. The battery is not charging, I THINK... i took the alternator out and took it to oreillys. They tested it and said it passed. Infact they tested it 6 times. All passing at 14.45 volt output. I put it back in the car and and fired it up and its putting out 13.75 ish at the alt, and battery, at idle and when revd up. Turn the headlights on it dips down to 12.5 ish. At idle and revd up. The p.o. or p.p.o wired in the alt and removed the external vr for an internal vr alt. Battery leads are new and connections are tight. Battery is new. Nothing crazy wired into the car minus an unknown brand fuel pump done by p.p.o. or p.o. I took apart the wiring harness and noticed that i had switched around the alt harness (the yellow, white/blue t connector) by not realizing that the p.o. had used different colors and i thought they were backwards BEFORE i opened the loom. Im stumped at this point. Any and all help is appreciated. Im so close i can taste it. HELP!!! Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 2, 2018 Report Share Posted December 2, 2018 Well the clutch sounds like you might need a slight adjustment.... As far as the alternator, does your charge light come on and go out? Also I think you could unplug the t at the alternator and you could test for 12volts... So unplug the connector, the top of the t should be yellow and showing 12v constantly... The charge light is under that... with ignition off it should show o volts, ignition on 12v and receives ground from the alternator till it turns on.... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 8 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Well the clutch sounds like you might need a slight adjustment.... As far as the alternator, does your charge light come on and go out? Also I think you could unplug the t at the alternator and you could test for 12volts... So unplug the connector, the top of the t should be yellow and showing 12v constantly... The charge light is under that... with ignition off it should show o volts, ignition on 12v and receives ground from the alternator till it turns on.... 420, thanks for the response. Yeah i agree i think the clutch just needs adjusting. No worries, im just happy it runs, and drives. The ign light comes on when the cars ignition is turned on. But goes out once the car is running. Idk if thats normal ( i suspect it is). Next chance i get this week i will test the "t connector. My question is how does the power go from the alt to the battery. From how i see it on the schematic its through the starter. Correct me if im wrong. Im most likely gonna bite the bullet, bust out the ole' grinder, and do the ka or gm swap. Cheap insurance in my mind.. On a side note, im inches away from doing an entire rewire with all brand new connections and good goods. Looks like cali is gonna see some rain this winter, so why the hell not. Do an all led swap too. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Ya the power is jumped to the starter which is then connected to the battery.. What's the current altenator? I dont know what your looking at for output but another option is one from a 78 200sx.. I did one in my 521, they are the same size as the stock 510 external regulated altenator and it was a 60 amp internally regulated altenator... the only difference was the bolt ... i think it uses an m10, and the alternator bracket was m8, i just kept the reducer sleeve from my old altenator, used the m8 and everything was bolt on .... might need a belt maybe not.... My voltage was doing exactly like you described before i did this swap, it has been stable ever since.... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Ya the power is jumped to the starter which is then connected to the battery.. What's the current altenator? I dont know what your looking at for output but another option is one from a 78 200sx.. I did one in my 521, they are the same size as the stock 510 external regulated altenator and it was a 60 amp internally regulated altenator... the only difference was the bolt ... i think it uses an m10, and the alternator bracket was m8, i just kept the reducer sleeve from my old altenator, used the m8 and everything was bolt on .... might need a belt maybe not.... My voltage was doing exactly like you described before i did this swap, it has been stable ever since.... Well that is good to know im not the only one with this problem. But with that being said did you actually have your alt tested, and if so was it yay or nay? Im looking for a high amperage alt. I plan to do a lot of modern modifications that may or may not need the higher amperage. Im being vague cause if i can pull them off i wanna drop it like a bomb. And i dont wanna be that guy that asks for all the help and then not actually do the mods. The current alt is unknown. However the motor is an l20b, and oreillys confirmed that the alt looks identical to the 70s-80s 510. Go to pg 2 of this thread and i have a pic posted of said alt Edited December 3, 2018 by 510revisited Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.