banzai510(hainz) Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I dont think that screw matters Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I dont think that screw matters Thanks I didn't think it does either as it wasn't there before. And to anyone telling me I should have done it myself that is beside the point. If I can work on this engine with never ever doing anything outside of a turbo or exhaust then I would expect someone who gets paid to do it can do it better than me. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Wrong. Most mechanics know as much as you do about them. They are old technology. Cars today... you can't use much old wisdom to diagnose... they are just too electronic. This is why there are Datsun forums. Not saying 'you should have' saying 'you should start now'. If you have lots of money and don't mind paying someone else to learn about them and paying for their mistakes while they learn, hey that's fine. Most classic or vintage owners get at least 50% of their enjoyment out of working on them with their hands. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Thanks I didn't think it does either as it wasn't there before. And to anyone telling me I should have done it myself that is beside the point. If I can work on this engine with never ever doing anything outside of a turbo or exhaust then I would expect someone who gets paid to do it can do it better than me. Bwahahahaha. So wrong. Most "techs" either weren't born or we're still kids when a Datsun was a thing. I work at a Toyota dealership and I will do anything I can to wiggle out of working on an old car. Regardless of its condition or fault...I truly believe, from a technician's perspective, if you're going to own a project, you should be doing your own work. Your experience just proved why you should have done an easy task yourself. Own it. You own the Datsun, own its quirks and issues as well. Don't pass them off to some kid with a toolbox who only wants to run and hide from your truck. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Its like a person who fish for a hobby, but does not put the worm in the hook or doesn't know how to gut it and clean it. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 My friend was a tech for 12 years. I've always been a garage mechanic. I can out wrench him on 70s tech any day of year. He basically never had call to learn those skills. The diagnostic techniques are not those of a modern car, and the common issues of these are complete mysteries to modern techs. So, to beat this dead horse. Be so loaded it doesn't matter how much you spend at the shop, or be patient and learn it yourself. Those are the options that lead to success here in Datsunland. And no one but maybe Tanker has the cash here on Ratsun. But we can teach you the skills. And burn that Haynes. Download the factory service manual . 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 ^ Exactly. Visit a tech school. Carburetor? Ha! None in sight, or even discussed. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Alright so getting back to the reason why my truck is there in the first place can someone tell me this? The truck ran great after I put it back together albeit with the ticking which was the tensioner being out. I drive it around the block a couple times, power is good, sounds good for the most part except for that ticking noise...https://flic.kr/p/TFH45h. Sound gets worse so I take it to the shop who replaces the tensioner, adjusts the lash, puts it back together and it runs like shit (wish I would have gotten a video of it), what could cause that? Meaning tensioner and/or lash wouldn't cause that dramatic of a change would it? Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I am not one to throw money/new parts at projects, but i'd be looking into a weber 32/36 instead of that hitachi. also, how is your points/cap/rotor? verified no exhaust/intake leaks? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I can buy a new carb no problem (was planning on it anyway) but it worked fine with the stock Hitachi before I took it there so I doubt it is the problem. Nor do I want to introduce another variable into this before its fixed. No idea on the points/cap/rotor will have to go by on Monday and find out but the owner said he didn't know how to adjust it so he would need to look it up. No intake/exhaust leaks before I took it over there. Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Timing timing timing!!!! Ck cam timing,then ign timing. Do this BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE. Next is valve lash. These things r #1 prob after chain/ tensioner work. If still runnin like crap,points issue or carb. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I'm leaning towards cam and ignition timing.... if it ran good before the head was removed, ran good after head was reinstalled except for the fact of the tensioner, then the shop had to have made a mistake.... Points cap rotor won't hurt to check , something may have gone wrong... And how is it running bad? At idle?, can you give it any throttle?.. You definitely need to find out exactly what they did..... Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Chain timing or dizzy timing is off. Time to start getting dirty. Did they charge you for nothing achieved? Alright so getting back to the reason why my truck is there in the first place can someone tell me this? The truck ran great after I put it back together albeit with the ticking which was the tensioner being out. I drive it around the block a couple times, power is good, sounds good for the most part except for that ticking noise...https://flic.kr/p/TFH45h. Sound gets worse so I take it to the shop who replaces the tensioner, adjusts the lash, puts it back together and it runs like shit (wish I would have gotten a video of it), what could cause that? Meaning tensioner and/or lash wouldn't cause that dramatic of a change would it? Timing timing timing!!!! Ck cam timing,then ign timing. Do this BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE. Next is valve lash. These things r #1 prob after chain/ tensioner work. If still runnin like crap,points issue or carb. I'm leaning towards cam and ignition timing.... if it ran good before the head was removed, ran good after head was reinstalled except for the fact of the tensioner, then the shop had to have made a mistake.... Points cap rotor won't hurt to check , something may have gone wrong... And how is it running bad? At idle?, can you give it any throttle?.. You definitely need to find out exactly what they did..... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 They haven't charged me anything yet because they still have it. But I will not pay for any work unless the truck is in the same state or better than it was when I dropped it off. Can someone tell me exactly how to check the cam timing so I can educate myself? I can only assume the shop fucked something up with all of this because the cam/ignition timing certainly didn't sound off when I took it in. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 The chain is not set on the timing marks. TDC, int/exh cam lobes at 10 and 2. Set bright links of chain on timing marks of cam gear and crank gear. Set tensioner and guides in place. Spin engine twice to verify. Install cover. At TDC, align make on oil pump with marks on dizzy spindle. Dizzy spindle end will be at 11:28. Install dizzy. 1-3-4-2 CCW. It's just nuts and bolts. This is also going to be an expensive lesson for you. Buy some basic tools and learn to to do this on your own. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Alright so getting back to the reason why my truck is there in the first place can someone tell me this? The truck ran great after I put it back together albeit with the ticking which was the tensioner being out. I drive it around the block a couple times, power is good, sounds good for the most part except for that ticking noise...https://flic.kr/p/TFH45h. Sound gets worse so I take it to the shop who replaces the tensioner, adjusts the lash, puts it back together and it runs like shit (wish I would have gotten a video of it), what could cause that? Meaning tensioner and/or lash wouldn't cause that dramatic of a change would it? To replace the chain tensioner the head and with it, the carb, has to be removed. If not handled properly, sediment in the carb can be stirred up and get into the jets. and any orifice. Maybe the gasket under the carb is on wrong somehow and leaking vacuum? Maybe intake gasket is loose and leaking vacuum. The distributor/oil pump has to come out, so maybe the spindle fell out and went in a tooth out, the timing was possibly lost. The cam and chain were separated so maybe it went back together off a tooth. Lash was set but who knows if done correctly? You were not involved in any of this. I'm trying to diagnose something third hand and I can't ask you what you did.. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I guess what I am trying to figure out is how to get everything back where it needs to be. Like where to start in regard to the cam and chain. And you're right I don't know what they did or how they did it. But if I were to just to take the truck back it would be on me to figure out. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Step 1...get truck back before they crash the valves into the pistons. Everything else, you got. How to get back to square 1 has already been posted in this page. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I hate to question datzenmike but why would the head and carb need to be removed to change the tensioner? Or did i read that wrong.... everything else you and flatcat stated is described simpler than I could.... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 What does run like shit mean? Slow to rev? No power? Back fires out carb/exhaust? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Correct, you wouldn't have to remove the head. Wrong thinking on my part and thanks... this means I need another coffee. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 All good... just threw me off... maybe you were just thinking about the whole process he's been going through.. this did all start with replacing a head gasket so.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2017 What does run like shit mean? Slow to rev? No power? Back fires out carb/exhaust? I mean it would struggle to even turn over and when it did it sounded super rough, hard to describe but the complete opposite of what it sounded like prior. It just sounded labored and slow. This was parked in neutral and not driving it anywhere. Shop owner was adjusting the carb and it wasn't making any difference and no back firing whatsoever. I should have grabbed a video of it but didn't...I only took a pic of the carb and the dizzy. Quote Link to comment
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