DaBlist Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Skimmed through this. The accelerator pump has been mentioned but I didn't see that it's been confirmed if it's functioning properly. If ignition wasn't a week point before and vacuum leaks have been eliminated I'd focus on the AP next. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 True, the accelerator pump helps transition from idle to above idle and fills in that lean condition caused by suddenly flooring the gas pedal. If you lightly accelerate you don't need it and I have to assume the OP has tried everything to get going. If there is a failure to get the car moving or to pick up speed under load that would indicate a lean condition. Possibly two cylinders are lean or all four. Choke on enough to affect acceleration would have a black cloud out the back and that isn't mentioned. Engines will run over rich way better than over lean. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 he never did mention the choke ON OFF issue has been tried. car ran fine before so the ignition and the stock carb timming is most likely fine. I would ck the jet block just to make sure they didn't back out. I have this proplem on my Mikunis. the high end cuts out. Its beenthe jet block bcking out ir the inner venture funnel wiggleing around and has to be tighten up. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Four pages..... Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I drove the car today. When cold the car hesitates. As the car warms up the symptoms become less but is still there in 2500 rpm to about 3,000 rpm. I moved the choke and did almost nothing. Blist- the accelerator pump is on the distributor? I want to drive the car more so I can have a accurate reading when I check the spark plugs Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I drove the car today. When cold the car hesitates. As the car warms up the symptoms become less but is still there in 2500 rpm to about 3,000 rpm. I moved the choke and did almost nothing. Blist- the accelerator pump is on the distributor? I want to drive the car more so I can have a accurate reading when I check the spark plugs Did you even bother to read the link i posted???? How are you going to learn if you don't do your part???? The accelerator pump is part of the carburetor....F in read, dude! Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 5 pages and no post about the jets in this thing. Throat size? Maybe its jetted wacky. Need to post main jet emulsion tube and air corrector sizes, also idle jet size would help too and how many turns out the screws are, also the model of it cause dcoe 9's have different idle screw pitch than 152's. Its soo damn easy to pull the jets out of these. Also make sure your choke lever is off and stays off. Unless you live in edmonton you dont need it. Two pumps it will fire up. They cause more problems on dcoe's than they solve. Im on the fence on the isolators, the plastic ones with o rings slightly dampen but not much really, the phenolic ones dont damp at all but block intake manifold heat. Thats also kinda fruitless as you have exhaust right under the carbs roasting them anyway. I have the insulators on mine, cause i need them to seal it up cause i dont have gaskets. Havint tried without. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 the accelerator pump is on the distributor? No, it's in the carb. It squirts fuel when you operate the throttle. If it's not functioning, it can cause the exact symptoms you describe. Look into the carb while working the throttle. If you see fuel squirting, then the accel pump is working. The accel pump nozzles may still be the wrong size for your engine and also, the pump is adjustable, so making sure it's pumping enough but not too much is critical. 2 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I've driven the car for 2 days and have found out when I'm cruising at about 3,000 rpm and try to accelerate at quite a fast pace that it stumbles Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Koheartsgpa- I read the article on how webers work. Now how too check it? Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 sounds like a fuel delivery issue. I would suggest some dyno time, may be worth the money. They typically have an afm to shove up your tail pipe so you can take a looksies at what your afr is doing Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Im surprised no one has attempted a diy rolling road yet. or maybe they have, and didnt live to tell the tale 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Koheartsgpa- I read the article on how webers work. Now how too check it? How to check what? I think you really need to start getting your hands dirty. Pull the jet cover and the jet blocks and see what jets you have. Write them down. Check and write down the pump nozzles and idle jets. Check to make sure the accel pump is at least working. Then get back to us. Also, parts and info can be found here - http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ You can call them to get baseline jetting info, but you should know what you have before you call them. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Im surprised no one has attempted a diy rolling road yet. or maybe they have, and didnt live to tell the tale Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Im surprised no one has attempted a diy rolling road yet. They did its called the highway and an o2 sensor.... hopefully a passenger to right some info down or maybe they have, and didnt live to tell the tale Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Well that didn't post right... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 You should be able to drive it without an accelerator pump. It's only for lean condition when suddenly floored. Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Im surprised no one has attempted a diy rolling road yet. They did its called the highway and an o2 sensor.... hopefully a passenger to right some info down or maybe they have, and didnt live to tell the tale Right, but you cant be outside of the car making any adjustments while you're driving down the highway I think i may have just issued a challenge Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 You should be able to drive it without an accelerator pump. It's only for lean condition when suddenly floored. Are you serious? With a plugged, torn or out of adjustment accel pump, you can have just the problem he is describing. Sure it's driveable without it, but it can and will stumble. Just like he's describing. I am not saying this is the problem, just one of the things to check. 1 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Still running a little lean Gary 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Yes, serious. If you gradually open the throttle you won't need an accelerator pump. Disconnect yours and try it. Totally drivable, but if you gas it too quickly at low at RPMs it will fall on it's face. By 2,500 any accelerator pump fuel is burned off on the way up to that RPM and the air speed is enough to suck in gas. The pump is for transitioning from idle circuit to running on the primary jet. Suddenly opening the throttle causes a severe lean condition because the air can't get moving fast enough. Once the rpms increase and the air gets moving it isn't needed. The Hitachi accelerator pump one way valve has built in back leakage into the float chamber. A sudden opening of the throttle gets a full squirt but if you open the throttle slowly less gas is needed and much of the squirt has time to push back into the float chamber, saving gas. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hey willz... that's great.... ya I wasn't thinking about turning any screw just getting info... so many posts and arguments and no real info given.... until golde-boy gets his hands dirty or gets a tuner involved he will never get it right. Info is the missing link here... Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 SMH We've even posted links, if he doesn't do his part, this is all a waste of time. 1 Quote Link to comment
Golde-boy Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Emulsion tube 175 f2 130 Idle jet 50 t 9 Idk if that is how u read it 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 This might shed light for you.. Quote Link to comment
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