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Single 45 DCOE issues L16


Golde-boy

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Lean, I see white near the tip, you need bigger jets, that's where the studdering is coming from, save some money to order a kit or at least the next 4 sizes up.

 

 

So not that I disagree but can you really just say bigger jets?...

Do the plugs really tell you where it's going lean or just an overall view of how the engine is running. Maybe his crusing speed is where he's lean... just playing a little Devils advocate right now...

One thing I noticed was he has an f2 emulsion tube I believe.... in my search for info for my own carb setup I found this...

 

Screenshot_20170216-081940_zpsjbq6aehy_e

I would think the f15 or f16 would be a better choice but I am just learning how everything works together....

 

Screenshot_20170216-082239_zpsmsq3b9g1.p

 

Not saying I am right or wrong just an observation....

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[/url]">http://IMG_1953_zpszaual5l4.jpg

Look pretty good. # 4 a little lean maybe and #1 is leanest. These are the two outside cylinders with the longest intake runners.

 

Try pulling the choke out in stages increasing the richness. If the stutter goes away it could be inferred that a richer mixture is needed.  

 

 

Check valve lash. Try adding some timing and experiment. Make sure any stuttering isn't electrical (bad wires or cap)

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When you're not sure what to do, go extreme.The best way to see if the jetting is off is to change it. I would buy the small jet kit and start playing with jetting. The plugs do look a bit on the lean side to me and lean can burn down an engine, so it's not worth ignoring.

 

One way to discern a lean hesitation from a rich hesitation is if there's a burble. Like if the engine is drowning in extra fuel and trying to burn it, that's rich. It will stumble and try to go.

 

If it just has a dead spot and then takes off, that's lean.

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So not that I disagree but can you really just say bigger jets?...

Do the plugs really tell you where it's going lean or just an overall view of how the engine is running. Maybe his crusing speed is where he's lean... just playing a little Devils advocate right now...

One thing I noticed was he has an f2 emulsion tube I believe.... in my search for info for my own carb setup I found this...Screenshot_20170216-081940_zpsjbq6aehy_e

I would think the f15 or f16 would be a better choice but I am just learning how everything works together.... Screenshot_20170216-082239_zpsmsq3b9g1.p

Not saying I am right or wrong just an observation....

I think I've seen this before, sounds about right for duals. Didn't know about f8 and f7 tubes, I thought f2's were the max.

 

There's not a lot of info on tuning with a single dcoe, just numbers for duals. Simply doubling the cylinder capacity cause one barrel is feeding two cylinders makes everything huge.

 

If this guy lived near me I'd just put the wideband on it and bring my jet kit.

 

The plugs don't look super lean. I bet one or two sizes up will cure it. If you do quick jet changes on the side of the road your butt dyno will pick up what's working better.

 

Datsunmikes advice isn't a bad idea either, but if this thing ran like a Swiss watch before the carb swap then...

 

Buy jets then post tits or burnout

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When i commented on the emulsion tube I didn't actually didn't think about the fact a single dcoe will be supplying 2 cylinders per carb bore. Again trying to share and learn .

This is how weber set up my 40dcoe for my l16...

Screenshot_20170206-160956_zps5i1rz7o5.p

I sent weber current jetting and my dyno results showing real rich between 2000 and 4000... waiting to see there suggestions.... I will ask about the emulsion tubes.. I assume I have an f11 Because they didn't note changing it.

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When you're not sure what to do, go extreme.The best way to see if the jetting is off is to change it. I would buy the small jet kit and start playing with jetting. The plugs do look a bit on the lean side to me and lean can burn down an engine, so it's not worth ignoring.

 

One way to discern a lean hesitation from a rich hesitation is if there's a burble. Like if the engine is drowning in extra fuel and trying to burn it, that's rich. It will stumble and try to go.

 

If it just has a dead spot and then takes off, that's lean.

Thank you!

 

To OP.....if you're going to run side drafts then you must have a minimal amount of extra jets with you, it's the price you pay to play with these things, if you're not interested, then switch to a 32/36 and be done with it.

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Well my emails from weber yielded nothing good... he couldn't even be specific about the emulsion tube. he said he never saw the chart I posted so who nows who came up with that info.... he said try f16 or f7.. which doesn't make sense by the chart...

I might just buy a weber tuning book and start doing some reading...

Not sure what jetting kit to say... might be easier to buy individual jets and stuff... most kits I see seem to be put together for dual carb setup....

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Main jet is too small

Thats small for even duals on a 1600. Your emulsion tubes are good..

You should order redline weber jet kit 737-144 then you have a range to play.

Will it pull if you wind it up high? What about when you roll into it slow and not slam your foot down?

I say throw a bigger main jet and air corrector at it. Getting a kit really helps you dial it in.

You may wanna order some 50 or 55 f9 idles, maybe even a set of 50f6 idles.

Heres a link for ya, its more for running duals but has pure gold in it

http://www.classicrallyclub.com.au/docs/Tips_tuning_Weber_carburettors_DVAndrews.pdf

 

Allready gave you the part number for the weber jet kit you need. Single carb 1600-2000cc.

This was on page 6

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