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Single 45 DCOE issues L16


Golde-boy

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I think that when one moves the little lever towards where the cable is mounted that would pull the choke on, meaning pulling on the choke cable knob on the dash, I don't know these carbs all that well, but I never heard of a choke that was off when one pulled the knob out, and when it was pushed in the choke was on.

You can see the choke arm too the right, and the choke cable mount to the left with the set bolt on top, in this photo the choke looks to be off to me.

IMG_1939_zps2hx9nh4l.jpg

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He said it runs and can be revved in neutral but bogs out under acceleration.

 

IF the choke was on it would literally, choke the performance.

 

 

Well we're on page 3 already. Did you take for a drive and read the plugs yet???? Are 1 and 2 different from 3 and 4?? Are they both too light or dark???

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He said it runs and can be revved in neutral but bogs out under acceleration.

 

IF the choke was on it would literally, choke the performance.

 

 

Well we're on page 3 already. Did you take for a drive and read the plugs yet???? Are 1 and 2 different from 3 and 4?? Are they both too light or dark???

That's kind of my point. If you run it with the choke on and it runs better than if it were off, then you know your jetting is pretty far off or something in the carb is plugged.

 

Yeah, pull a plug already. Let's see what they look like.

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It isn't the problem anyway. If the leak were that bad it wouldn't run in the first place. Saying you can cut your own gasket just use thicker material or double it up.

 

Choke is on or off... there are only two possibilities, try one.

 

Move on to plug reading....

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It isn't the problem anyway. If the leak were that bad it wouldn't run in the first place. Saying you can cut your own gasket just use thicker material or double it up.

 

Choke is on or off... there are only two possibilities, try one.

 

Move on to plug reading....

Been around these side drafts long enough to know enough to know you need the right stuff, these things vibrate, you can't have solid materials as the gasket between the carb and the mani.

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Hey golde-boy... I finally started my motor yesterday and learned a few things.. it's an l16 with single 40dcoe and I was surprised to find i need some smaller jets to smooth out my midrange...

I went to a dyno to break in my motor and basically get a baseline to my airfuel.... idle up to 2000 was good but if i went full throttle I'd stumble till about 3500 which showed to much fuel till I got to 3500 then my air fuel smoothed out...

Checking your plugs will give you some info... and air/fuel and o2 sensor will give you more. A dyno shop even more But no matter what you need to know what jets you have to be able to make adjustments... it doesn't sound like you've got anything installed wrong. Even the gasket between the carb and manifold.. the oring spacer would be better. but You really need to know what your air fuel ratio is doing and how your carb is currently setup internally to really solve your issue... I have no idea which jet controls what so I need to some reading now too.

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They were familiar with Webers but unfortunately did not have jets and things to rejet at that time. Which I didn't really care because as I said I was there to break in the motor not necessarily tune it for power yet. it would be best to find a dyno that has weber parts then once you see your air/fuel ratio you'd be able to adjust right away... but where I live in new England it's not so easy not much support for datsuns or webers...

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Listen, this isn't complicated, been there myself, it'll idle and rev up fine then under load it starves or floods, you need to determine whether its getting too much or not enough, get a set of jets and play with it, its really not complicated once you have the base tuning dialed in, show us the plugs. Please.

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