L-16T Build Route

[That4doorKiD]

Looking to build an L4 for my ongoing turbo build. I am in the last steps of just needing to rebuild a motor that's prepared to take the boost.

 

I need suggestions... 

 

-L-16 better MPG? than an L-20b, but L-20b has how much more power potential?

 

-Buying...Wiseco Forged Pistons 84mm 

 

-Looking to run 15-20psi with my set up and daily on 9 psi (don't worry about carb)

 

-Rev limiter set to 6.5K...Stock Rods?

 

-15 psi on an L-16 should be enough punch to choose over L-20 for mpg right?

 

Should I stick with an L-16 or do an L20b?...obviously will swap to a different head.

Can stock Rods handle 6.5K repeatedly every time I'm racing a Mustang.

L-18 Rods or Z22 whatever combo you guys suggest?

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

I think you already have one topic about this.... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69206-noob-turbo-l-16-from-hell/page-8

 

Any reason we need two?

[Crashtd420]

Everyone will tell ypu to build the l20.. i opted to be unique and build an l16 and i bought those same pistons which are too small for an l20, stock bore is 85mm.... so make your block choice first.. and i hope you know they are a 9cc dome piston.... may not be the best choice for a turbo set they will increase you compression ratio. I think you want lower compression if you wanna boost.. my l16 has those pistons with a w53 closed chamber head. I had to clearance everything to fit properly... and I ended up at 10.7 to 1 cr.. I would have been better off with flat tops which would have given me around 9.5 to 1.. but didn't realize my error till I was assembling the motor...

Before you buy things run your numbers through a compression ratio calculator make sure the plus and minus are correct that's where i fucked up my calculations.

[Crashtd420]

Oh and one other thing to know. Factory rod had a press fit wrist pin... piston floats on the pin... wiseco piston float the pin in the rod.. so stock rods would need to be fitted with a brass bushing with the correct slip fit...

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You don't need to use a brass bushing when resizing the rod for a floating pin. But you should make sure there is an oiling hole at the top of the rod, and give it a nice chamfer.

[Fat510]

A pretty well built N/A L20 can run about 130hp with cams, ported, headwork, with big sidedrafts

 

Any more than 150 really wouldn't be streetable for daily use and you'd still get wrecked by a stock V8.

 

You should opt for forged internals because underbuilding for forced induction is a waste of time and money. you're going to spend twice as long replacing shit anyway if it blows up

[Three B's Racing]

Back in the 70's I used a Crown kit on an L16 with stock pistons and L18 rods because their .100" shorter thus lowering the piston and compression. Compression was about 7:3:1 on an L20B head. Ran 15 psi and a Weber 40mm up front of the Turbo. Ran smooth with really great power but 18-20mpg around town due to low compression.

[G-Duax]

You should opt for forged internals because underbuilding for forced induction is a waste of time and money. you're going to spend twice as long replacing shit anyway if it blows up

 

Yup, I have doubts that stock rods would take 20 psi at all.

You can pick up H-beam rods off eBay for under $300.

[shacks510]

What experience do you have with turbocharging? Zero? If you really wanna turbo something, do it to something you don't mind blowing up. If you spend a huge chunk of money on forged parts then have it blow up because of no tune, I imagine you'd be more than pissed. I'm not one to talk on this subject because I have zero turbo experience, but don't spend a ton of money expecting one part to make everything work flawlessly. Forged internals won't keep it from running lean and melting a piston.

 

Could a downdraft even flow enough and supply enough fuel for 20psi?? That's an awful lot.

 

Oh, and don't even try to build a bigger motor for MPG, unless using more gas is "better" especially if you're boosting.

[Dattokai]

I've already had an L series that was turbo'd. Trust me, you'll just end up putting something else in. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Icehouse and Dave did a blow throw on a 510. Its was trouble some and soon a smoker. later sold

 

Guy on the realm has a 240 HP turbo L20 and has a lot of work done to it and timming adjustment set for advance retard ect.....

 

I think run on street on 5 -8psi and call it good

[That4doorKiD]

Turbo isn't complicated... I've done enough research, all you need is the right parts. O2 sensor and boost referenced equipment margins for a possible boost tune. I'm not worried at all about AFR.

I wanted to know tge good facts like the pins from forged pistons, and having to make a hole for oil on the rod.

So what piston/rod combo can I go with without changing the compression too dramatically

[That4doorKiD]

That was one of my main questions, what rods will work with pistons

[datzenmike]

Turbo isn't complicated... I've done enough research, all you need is the right parts. O2 sensor and boost referenced equipment margins for a possible boost tune. I'm not worried at all about AFR.

 

 

 

Really admire your confidence.

 

Floating pins are not a requirement for anything, boosted or otherwise. They are nice to have.

 

Any L16 rod will work if you improve the rod bolt fasteners and stay within the red line. If you are going to twist it past 7K (all the time) then look at some lighter beefier rods.

 

This is making a buck fifty the hard way. A KA swap is way cheaper, better mileage more reliable.

[That4doorKiD]

Really admire your confidence.

 

Floating pins are not a requirement for anything, boosted or otherwise. They are nice to have.

 

Any L16 rod will work if you improve the rod bolt fasteners and stay within the red line. If you are going to twist it past 7K (all the time) then look at some lighter beefier rods.

 

This is making a buck fifty the hard way. A KA swap is way cheaper, better mileage more reliable.

True I do want reliability, I'm exagerradttingnfd on my 15-20 psi boost. But my head is stuck on turbo, and I want a rebuilt motor done the right way to be reliable. I would daily on 9psi, but STILL want forged pistons

 

Honestly, I'm not gonna redline that high all the time, but knowing how fast a motor revs with boost online = too irrestistable

[That4doorKiD]

Everyone will tell ypu to build the l20.. i opted to be unique and build an l16 and i bought those same pistons which are too small for an l20, stock bore is 85mm.... so make your block choice first.. and i hope you know they are a 9cc dome piston.... may not be the best choice for a turbo set they will increase you compression ratio. I think you want lower compression if you wanna boost.. my l16 has those pistons with a w53 closed chamber head. I had to clearance everything to fit properly... and I ended up at 10.7 to 1 cr.. I would have been better off with flat tops which would have given me around 9.5 to 1.. but didn't realize my error till I was assembling the motor...

Before you buy things run your numbers through a compression ratio calculator make sure the plus and minus are correct that's where i fucked up my calculations.

the wiseco pistons have a customizable dish CC to your spec lmfao???!!!?

[shacks510]

L18 or L20 might be better because they have a fully counterbalanced crank. You'll also need to make sure each piston/rod/ring assembly is weighed and balanced (is that the right word?). Do some research on that too. Your pistons should be weighed from the factory.

[Crashtd420]

Well good luck with that and thanks for laughing at my mistake... karma's a bitch.

[Crashtd420]

And fyi. My machine shop ordered the pistons for me and i heard 9cc dished not dome .. didn't even know they did the custom and you never stated that so until i looked it up i was unaware ... if you order 84 mm for an L16 you get what I got. Ordering custom is obviously different...

[datzenmike]

The trouble with low compression is that the engine acts like a low compression engine any time the boost is off. They aren't much fun. Higher compression have their own problems but sluggishness when off boost isn't one of them. Pre ignition/detonation is when boosting. Your compression plus boost is going to drive the compression way way up there. You will need extreme mixture and timing to control this. Heat is your enemy. Excess heat is an engine killer. Some things to consider to remove heat and/or prevent heat spikes when boosting ...

 

Oil cooler................. Oil gets HOT way hotter than the coolant. Cooling the oil is a great way to remove engine heat.

Larger rad............... Or improved cooling system that handles 50-100% increase in engine output

Cold air intake......... Heat of compression is how diesels work. Don't make it easier for detonation.

Water/AL injection... Cool intake air by evaporation

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

My suggestion, do this as cheaply as possible. Don't spend any money on forged pistons or h-beam rods. I wouldn't build a motor at all, just use a junkyard motor. If you change your mind later, or if you grenade this motor in the process, at least your conscience is clear.

 

Seriously though, I think everybody with an opinion is trying to get you to not start this project because of some personal experience. I hope you do it and get it done, but be ready for a lot of outside the box thinking when it comes to tuning.

 

Also, don't discount anyone's personal experience. At least they're speaking from the first person and not from somebody's cousin's uncle who had a Chrysler turbo in the 80's...

[That4doorKiD]

Well good luck with that and thanks for laughing at my mistake... karma's a bitch.

didn't mean to laugh at you in a mean way dude/:

 

nut thanks for the pin info with the rods, thats what I was looking for :geek:

[That4doorKiD]

there i got my info, you can delete my thread

[wayno]

 

 

 

[Dolomite]

There's a difference between research and experience. I'd say drive a car with a turbo and see if it's your thing. All I can tell you is I really liked my tbird turbo, then I upgraded boost and loved it. It was doggy off boost but you'll learn how to get things spooling faster with a bit of clutch abuse. It gets addictive quickly, now that engine is cammed, with upgraded intercooler and injectors and resides in the fastest mgb Ive personally heard of. Don't let anyone talk you out of boost if you like it, but drive a turbo first to know for sure. Drivability is a concern as well, my mg is running a narrowed 4 link with lsd and 255/50/16s and shit still gets unruly when 15lbs comes on mid corner.