My 1971 521

[datzenmike]

Yes the two holes directly below both pair of intake ports. Your intake gasket will have holes in them too. I don't know how many hundreds of thousands of L series engines were made and they didn't leak. They can only leak when not put on properly. By properly I mean not torqued properly and the two surfaces not cleaned of old gasket properly. I guess throw in not properly inspected for surface damage too.

 

 

 

Tighten the chain guides wrist tight. You shouldn't be able to over torque them using only your wrist. Hold the ratchet by the head.

[d.p]

What about rod bolts? I swear I torqued them right but I can still ‘tighten’ them like a quarter turn more.   

[Crashtd420]

11 hours ago, d.p said:

What about rod bolts? I swear I torqued them right but I can still ‘tighten’ them like a quarter turn more.   

Think about it , you can always get another quarter turn out of a bolt till you eventually break it....

Go to the recommended torque and be done with it.... 

Why would you even try tighten your rod bolts more after you torqued them?

[d.p]

Who the fuck knows why I do what I do.  Lol. Thanks though.  

[mainer311]

I get it though. It still moves, so why not just turn it more? We're all used to just muscling the fuck out of everything. One of our robots at work requires 600 ft-lbs on the joint nuts. You have to hang on the 5' long torque wrench. 

[d.p]

Yeah after hanging off the crank and cam bolts to tighten the fuck out of those it got me thinking about the other smaller bolts.  

[datzenmike]

Have your torque wrench calibrated. If you over torque, you can stretch the bolts past the point where they are permanently deformed.

[mrbigtanker]

3 hours ago, d.p said:

Who the fuck knows why I do what I do.  Lol. Thanks though.  

Asking the same question.

[d.p]

Trust me its not the wrench its me.  

 

1 minute ago, mrbigtanker said:

Asking the same question.

 

my man!

[banzai510(hainz)]

https://zcardepot.com/products/water-pump-l16-l18-l20b-510?variant=31351265755249

 

it the japan no clutch  800-551 part number its 48$

 

 

anywater pump in the 20$ range has to be Chinese.. Unless you get really lucky  GMB Japan is OK nut somebody said those are now maybe Chinese.

[d.p]

Ordered water pump, oil pump and some other shit.  But I am wondering what I have already, its a Hitachi oil pump stamped 'H33.'  I read somewhere it was L28 non turbo and am just wondering what came on my L20B.  

 

And should I be using an electric fuel pump w/dual carbs?  Or will mechanical suffice? 

 

 

Edited April 28, 2020 by d.p

[mrbigtanker]

30 minutes ago, d.p said:

Ordered water pump, oil pump and some other shit.  But I am wondering what I have already, its a Hitachi oil pump stamped 'H33.'  I read somewhere it was L28 non turbo and am just wondering what came on my L20B.  

 

And should I be using an electric fuel pump w/dual carbs?  Or will mechanical suffice? 

 

 

Mechanical will work, I just hate the fuel line in the front, and with 44's I would do a Holley red. You just need 3-4 LBS pressure.

Edited April 28, 2020 by mrbigtanker

[d.p]

I hear that but have you seen greaser2s engine bay with the mechanical pump?  Looks titties but he is using a single weber.  

 

I put the fuel pump eccentric so I have options.  You use that Holley red?  

 

 

[mrbigtanker]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

I hear that but have you seen greaser2s engine bay with the mechanical pump?  Looks titties but he is using a single weber.  

 

I put the fuel pump eccentric so I have options.  You use that Holley red?  

 

 

Yes i have worked great, his bay does look good but you seen mine and its cleaner in a sense is a hate plug wires and the fact that you would mount the pump on frame rail and then run fuel line from behind the engine so you dont have all that clutter in front. 

[Crashtd420]

3 hours ago, d.p said:

Ordered water pump, oil pump and some other shit.  But I am wondering what I have already, its a Hitachi oil pump stamped 'H33.'  I read somewhere it was L28 non turbo and am just wondering what came on my L20B.  

 

And should I be using an electric fuel pump w/dual carbs?  Or will mechanical suffice? 

 

 

On the oil pump you should be able to actually see the longer , um. ... rotor... I forget the actual name.....

I know you can physically see the difference when you look down in the pump... I know there are pics out there showing the difference.... 

[Crashtd420]

[datzenmike]

It's a trochoid pump rotor. Gif, make it all better....

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

x2 on pipe plugs. Sealing them with plugs eliminates the possibility that they will leak over time. And it also makes removing the carbs (for whatever reason) so much easier. Make sure that they sits flush after installed. You may even need to block sand them flush.

 

Yes, the two below the intake ports.

[d.p]

If I wanted to run a single weber I would need those holes?  Would prefer to have options so if what Mike is saying is true that properly sealing the gasket will suffice I can just do that.  

[Crashtd420]

37 minutes ago, d.p said:

If I wanted to run a single weber I would need those holes?  Would prefer to have options so if what Mike is saying is true that properly sealing the gasket will suffice I can just do that.  

Yes it will seal, if you did pipe plugs they are easily removed...

Mostly it's the intake that matters not the carb...

What single weber are you thinking about? 

I thought you were gonna run those dual mikuni carbs?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I like the pipe plugs as I don't deal with the radioator and water all over everything and leaking into the intake valves.

 

Like Crash said you can remove the pipe plugs but then you have to deal with the water line coming around. Might just be ezer to leave the pipe plugs in  to run the down draft carb and stock intake. just drive i warmer months.   I would  run it like that.

Just info:

The water passages was  to help the gas warm up the carb  and vaporize the mixture in winter driving.

I had this setup on my 510 as it was a import L16head with no water passages.  going over a high altitude mountain pass my car would die out. pull over it be fine then do it again. I open up the hood and the carb was Frozen.  I later I drill a 1/4 holes where the center hole pages(gasket) was and routed the hotwater line to the intake. then carb never froze again

But really once you go sidedrafts youll never go back to a downdaft. esp a car you don't daily drive everyday anyways. Might be better with a low geared 521 the carbs come up to speed sooner anyways.

 

Me?  Just plug them and run it either way. If it freezes then you know its too cold out.

others say that why you have a thermostat ect….. to get engine up to normal operating conditions.  Far as im concern its a stinky 60s techonology motor

 

[datzenmike]

If you have a water cooled intake use it. Millions were made and don't leak and use the same gasket. If like you are, using an after market intake that doesn't use it you can pipe plug just to be safe.

 

I have a U67 that didn't have the two holes in it. I put a later '79 water cooled intake on and drilled out the holes and added to the by pass hose. It didn't leak

 

Now I have R1 carbs and a home made intake that doesn't use the coolant holes. Guess what? it doesn't leak either.

 

 

Here's the flange before the pipes were welded on. It seals against the hole in the head no problem.

[d.p]

The only reason I would is if I run into problems with the dual mikunis.  I thought I would just throw my 32/36 on as I know it works.  

[Crashtd420]

8 minutes ago, d.p said:

The only reason I would is if I run into problems with the dual mikunis.  I thought I would just throw my 32/36 on as I know it works.  

Makes sense.....

[d.p]

Is $450 good for a basically crate wide ratio 5 speed?  Similar to the one I posted before but supposedly in better condition and comes with a shifter and knob.